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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    HI Zaken, here is the latest. Had wife take my car to my local mechanic. He tighten down 3 bolts on the manifold at 9 something torque and said bolts only turned about 10 degrees. He reset codes.
    CHeck enginge light came back on while wife was driving about 6 hours later appox. 20 miles.
    My mechanic siad he has not found leaks in manifold and he has been suggesting that I get new sensors from Toyota because he has had problems in the past with the aftermarket sensors and have found no problems when using Toyota sensors.
    I would have to make an approx. $300 dollor investment in Toyota's sensors.

    I always apeciate your advice and will wait to here from you.

    Thanks again as always, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, wanted to also mention that I went to auto zone to have codes read and, only code P0138 came up not P2195 this time. Wondering if that means anything or can I anticipate P2195 ( fuel -ratio) to come back? Did the little bit of tightening of the manifold change things?
    Thanks, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I don't know what to say about this. Didn't you use a Denso sensor? Denso is owned by Toyota; and I highly doubt that this sensor is any different from the one they sell in the "Toyota Genuine Parts" box. So how about this; explain to your mechanic that the prospect of a $300 investment would be potentially daunting; if it turned out to not correct the situation; but it would be worthwhile; if it worked. How certain is he that this will work; and will he back his claim with any guarantee of performance? If the two of you can agree to a mutually acceptable set of terms; then go for it. But if he will not stand behind his advice; then this is just a gamble. As the saying goes: "Talk's cheap." Are you a gambler?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If you originally changed both the font and rear sensor; this may mean that only the rear sensor is setting a code anymore. Either that; or the other code will appear later. I really can't say; but it would be nice if the front sensor doesn't throw codes anymore. That would also reduce the amount of your investment in a "gamble" to just the rear sensor.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, thank you for your good advice. My my mechanic may have in the past mentioned a guarantee to me on the phone about using the Toyota sensors though sometimes his english could be broken. He speaks mostly Korean and sometime I have trouble hearing him on the phone. I will go visit him tomorrow and see what he will do.

    I have had a couple of conversation with Denso and they also confirmed what you said about their sensors.

    However the only thing the Tech wasn't able to confirm if the voltage or ohms ( sorry not sure of the right terminology) were the same. What do you think? Thanks again, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, went to local mechanic this morning check codes and just 138 came up. History showd 2195 complete but 138 not complete and also showed on screen catlystic and evap though mechanic wasn't sure why that came up. He reset code. After 40 miles of driving this morning light back on went to auto zone and now both codes are showing up again.

    All that being said I just noticed that the little metal flap that is at the fuel neck opening is missing. I allways thought there was one there. Can i be mistaken or can this be causing a evap problem and trigger the codes.
    Just wondering, thanks chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Sorry; but I don't understand what the tech (who I assume is the person you spoke with at Denso) was trying to compare. If he was trying to compare the specs of the Toyota OEM sensor and the Denso aftermarket sensor, I would not be concerned with that. I expect your mechanic speaks from experience with sensors made by other companies; and has never compared the performance of a Denso sensor specified for this vehicle with the Toyota sensor. The language barrier also can be a significant obstacle and potential source of confusion here. I have seen these situations before; and have repeatedly found that when all is clearly understood; there is no basis for buying the Toyota sensors.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I would think that there originally was a little metal flap in the fuel filler neck. If there was, and it now is missing; this could cause a code. I've never seen this one before; but in this world of endless possibilities; anything can and does happen. Have it checked by someone who knows what they are doing and who has the right information.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    HI Zaken, will look a little more into the fuel filler flap. Not sure if it is related. I was in the Toyota show room today and checked on a couple of models that did not have the flap. One service guy I know said Tpyota did away with them. Not sure though when that started.

    I have also been told by a new mechanic which I shared my sensor story with today who workrd for Toyota in Japan for 4 years some 40 years ago and now has his own idependent shop in the chicago area. All he does is work on Toyota's. He suggested that I use premium gas.
    I know you have also mentioned to me about the heavy carbon build up in my engine. I just started using premium again a week ago and today I put in the chevron fuel treatment you once recommended. I am going to try a few tanks of preumium be fore I invest more money into sensors. If you have anymore cleaning the systen tips please let me know.
    Thanks again Zaken, I appricate you, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Chuck, Now that you mentioned fuel choices, and also mentioned cleaning the system in the same thread; this jogged my memory that both spark plug choices and fuel chemistry affect the quality of combustion in a motor. You may know that a major amount of the fuel sold in the US has Ethanol added. Ethanol reduces performance and fuel economy, particularly in the winter months. There are some gas stations which still sell gasoline without Ethanol in it. They are few and far between; but there is a website that lists these stations and their locations. It is called www.pure-gas.org You might see if one of these stations is near you, and try running their fuel.

    Fuel and ignition issues can both contribute to a situation like this. Toyota engines often are affected by ignition problems. This can be caused by inappropriate spark plug choices (which sometimes include the stock NGK plugs), and can also be caused by defective ignition coils.

    If you're considering throwing hundreds of dollars into oxygen sensors; I would think the chances of success would be greater if you spent that money on a set of improved design ignition coils. The original coils on this motor are known to be prone to failures; and failing coils will not trigger a coil failure code in the early stages (though they certainly will affect the fuel mixture). Along with replacing the coils; it might be a further improvement to use a different style of spark plug. I would recommend the Airtex/Wells coils that are listed for your car in the Rock Auto catalog. They are easy enough to change that you could do it yourself. If you do this, and would then like a recommendation for an alternative spark plug; just let me know.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,684
    edited April 2012
    The fuel filler flap - I know what you mean, my old Corolla had one, but I know for a fact the 2007 Camry does not have one, none of the newer Toyotas do.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, wanted to give you an update on the Camry V-6 2007. Last week after code reset by disconnecting battery went almost 100 miles until check engine light came back on. Same codes 138 and 2195. I was running premium and had the Chevron full treatment in the last tank.

    I was going to put more chevron treatment in my next tank but I let the guy at auto zone talk me into this product called Lucas 10020 upper cylinder fuel injector cleaner. He claimed it is better than Chevron. I went head and tried it though I should have talked to you first.

    I filled up with Shell Premium and added the bottle. Car had noticeable more power. However the check engine light came on only after 20 miles. I have disconnected battery again and will recheck today.

    Am I hurting anything by using this product?

    Thank for all your help, Happy Easter, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Two points here: 1> Despite the claims of some other people on this site; it is still my opinion that it is not as effective nor as permanent to clear codes on an OBDII emission control system like yours by disconnecting the battery as it is to clear the codes with a scanner. Take that as you see fit.

    2> While Lucas fuel injector cleaner is a good product; it has a narrower range of effects than Chevron Techron. Each product has its purpose and strong points; but each also has a degree of solvent action; which has enough of a diluting effect on the oil in the cylinders that it should not be repeated more often than about 3,000 miles. What I'm saying here is that I do not recommend using any fuel injector or combustion chamber cleaner more often than once every 3,000 miles; and only one product at a time. So, if you use one brand, no other brand or no more of the one you just added should be used for the next 3,000 miles.

    3> If you want to make the motor more efficient; have the mass airflow sensor cleaned; using only mass airflow sensor spray, and have the throttle body thoroughly cleaned (paying particular attention to both sides of the butterfly and to the entire bore; especially where the edges of the butterfly touch the bore). This can be done as often as 3,000 miles; but most vehicles will not show noticeable benefit if it is repeated more often than 6,000 mile intervals.

    4> As I have previously recommended; I believe that replacing the ignition coils with the Airtex/Wells model specified for your car will improve the running. I can also suggest an alternative spark plug choice; if you so request.

    How's that for "2" items?
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, thanks for your last response. I respect your opinion over any other. When I get a chance I will have my mechanic reset the code with his OBD reader. In the mean time I like to reset the code by unhooking the battery so I don't have to be reminded of my car problems when looking at the check engine light. I know I should go buy a OBD meter. I will hold off for now on any more fuel treatment as I have not gone close to 3000 miles after I put the Chevron treatment in. Thanks for that advice.

    On another note I was under my car today removing the plastic shield underneath the front of the engine so I can get a better look at the windshield fluid resevoir that I thought might be leaking. Still not sure about that but while under there I notice a dime size jagged hole in the casing of the motor mount. This seems to be a heavy duty steel and can't figure out how that got there. Is there anything inside that casing that could have busted through that?
    I'm sure this is a new request of you. I figured if anyone has an answer it would be you. Thanks again Zaken.

    PS Is there any way I can connect with you outside the website?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I really can't say much about the hole in the motor mount casing. The only thing that is inside the casing (assuming you really are looking at the motor mount) is a rubber block. Here's a link to a photo of the motor mount: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1572462

    Those mounts are sometimes not finished nicely; and could have some slag or rough edges on them just as a normal imperfection. I can't imagine anything punching through it.

    I have mixed feelings about connecting outside of this site. I realize it would reduce the time lag; but it would also have the potential to be an intrusion into my personal life. You see; I feel very responsible about answering people's questions promptly; and thus am not comfortable about knowing that there is an unanswered question hanging. If such questions are limited to the Town Hall and Edmunds Answers websites; I can control how often I log on; and that allows me to concentrate on my other activities as desired. But if questions or requests were to show up on my e-mail account; I would find them much more difficult to ignore. As it now is; I often feel pressured by the various demands on my time from activities in which I take part. And I try to maintain a relaxed pace of life; which allows me to choose when and what I do at any given time.

    Perhaps if you explain why it would be desirable for you to be able to contact me outside this site; I could be in a better position to respond about such a request.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, I respect and understand your position about connecting outside of the site. You have been great answering my questions. For reasons you mentioned about convenience for me and quicker responses is why I requested this. I'm good with the way it is now.

    The picture of the motor mount is what I was looking at. The hole is located about an inch or two above the factory whole that is shown in the picture. I took a picture of it but not sure if I can post it to show you. I'm assuming the casing is just there as a cover and the mount is still working properly. Wondering if there is any fluid in these mounts.

    Thank again and I'll keep you updated, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    I have a 2007 Camry V-6 which has a check engine light with code 2195 and 138 Fuel air ratio and oxygen sensors. Toyota says to fix it they need to apply the TSB which includes changing the exhaust manifold. ( $18,000)

    They claim this is not warranty work under the power train warrany only the 3 yr -36,000 bumper to bumper/

    I have an extended power train warranty which clearly states what is covered under the warranty and it list the exhaust manifold.

    How can Toyota say this would not be covered?

    Thanks for your insight, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Ooops! cost is $1,800 not $18,000 my bad,
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Is your extended powertrain warranty through Toyota? If it is; you need to work this out with Toyota's warranty department. Explain to them that the exhaust manifold is listed under the items covered by that warranty; and see what they say. If it is through another company; you need to discuss this with that company.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, I did just as you mentioned. Talked with Toyota Extended care and they confirmed the manifold is covered. They said the car needs to go back to the dealership so they can start a new R.O and get the milage off the car. My wife will be taking the car there this morning. The deaership reminded me that I will still have to replace the sensors. I' m hoping they don't try to double charge me on the labor for the sensor replacement seeing that the manifold labor includes removing the sensor.
    I will keep you informed, thanks chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, here is the latest, had my wife take car to Toyota. Service manager said he had to fight with Toyota extended care to warranty the manifold. He then told me the only way they would agree to warranty it is for me to have all the sensors changed which includes 3 sensors even though only 2 of the codes were coming up for Bank 1 sensor 1 and 2. The other one was Bank 2 sensor 1 Fuel ratio. I questioned him on it and he said this is the agreement Toyota told him. Cost for parts and labor $675 minus 10% coupon. Manifold no charge. I told him to go ahead with the job seeing that I now have a 1 year 12,000 miles warranty on the new parts. He tried to discourage me calling back Toyota extended care saying he already did everything he could. I called them anyhow and they had a different story saying they recommended only changing out the sensors that applied to the specific manifold even though they can't cover the sensors under the power -train warranty. Called back dealership and he said "that's not what they told me" Someone is lying and I think it's the serve manager.

    I tried to negotiate not to change the Bank 2 sensor which would save me $212.00 and he said he had to check to see if they started taking it out yet. He then said mechanic said sensor looked week and he wouldn't be able to warranty the work if I chose not replace it. For the peace of mind I agreed to have him replace it.

    All and all I'm pleased to have the job done to Toyata's specification. I have all the updated parts including the redesign manifold. This would have been close to a $1800 job with out the warranty of the manifold.

    Rock auto also agreed to give me credit on the sensors I bought from them. Very nice of them.

    I have all the original sensors. As I inspect the Rock auto's sensors they say Denso on them but not Toyota. The old Toyota's sensors say Toyota with there part number on them. I did notice that there was a design difference in the two oxygen sensors. Toyota's had a few small holes in it and the Rock auto had multiple holes up and down. I can't say each sensor is exactly the same/ The fuel ratio's were closer in looks.
    This has been a long journey and I hope it's over. I still hate dealing with the dealerships but seeing that they covered more than half the job I'm happy.

    Thanks for all your insight and I look forward to continue to gain more wisdom from you in the days to come. You have been a great help! Chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    2007 Camry V-6

    Car is running better than ever. Check engine lights gone after TSB performed. (replaced manifold and fuel-air sensors).

    Car is shifting better and gas milage is better. It's a joy to drive agian.

    Thanks again for the knowledge we learn on this site.
  • akumotoakumoto Posts: 1
    have you found a solution to your intermittent problem u0101
  • iraheeliraheel Posts: 1
    Were you able to get it fixed , i have the same issue with my car
  • banditboybanditboy Posts: 54
    edited August 2012
    I have 74k on my 07 camry I4 with moonroof package . Oil changed every 5k. Had 1 failure. the car seat motor stopped working at 34k miles. fixed under warranty.At 73k needed new rotors and brakes. i have a tow hitch and it has towed some heavy weights a few times and around 1000 pounds for extended time.

    Cannot believe the brakes lasted so long. Mine i was the first batch after the hesitation fix , i made sure of it in 07 . great car and many more miles to go.It has become the older vehicle in the family and sees limited usage as my winter commuter when its too cold for the motorcycle. But 4 yrs it carried our family everyday and was our primary vehicle.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    HI I have a 2007 Camry v-6 SE with moonroof. Today I noticed my dome lights in the ceiling in front of moonroof are diming an orange maybe a touch of blue/white. At first I thought it was a reflection, It;s like a glowing sensation. I've checked all switches. The lights work fine when switched to on.
    Does anyone know what can be causing this diming glowing.

    Thanks chuck
  • I was having the vibration allso with 70000 miles and it started about a year ago. The dealer keep telling me it was normal for the vibration. I took it to another dealer and he found that the airflow senser was dirty and cleamed it and reset the computor to factory and the vibration went away. Who ever has this problem might have the dealer to check it out. I was also told that you should get an engine check light which I never got.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    Can anyone suggest a good brand rotor and pads that would work on the 2007 v-6 SE Camry. I'm on a budget bit don't want to buy cheap quality.
    Also has anyone done there own brakes and found any problems with aditional shims that are requrured?

    Thanks for any insight you may have, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    I have a 2007 V-6 Camry. I noticed recently wipers were moving very slow. Weather has gotten cold in Chicago. Today Battery light came on. Made it home turned off car and car wont restart.. Just a click...
    Took battery to auto zone battery tested good ( meaning cells good) but needs charge.
    Auto zone is charging the battery for me and I will pick up tomorrow.
    It's seems it might be an alternator problem.
    If anyone has any insight on this matter it would be much appreciated.
    Thank you, chuck
  • kmanchesterkmanchester Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    My dash lit up like a Christmas tree about 9 am this morning. I was arriving to cook a brunch for some folks, so I just had to pull in and continue doing my thing. Afterwards I opened the manual to see what all this meant. (Stop the car!!! call Toyota and so on) Well it is Sunday on a holiday weekend. There is an autozone I my way home. They were open so I asked them to plug in the computer diagnostics thing. (by the way they do this for free, no purchase necessary, so do save yourself 100.00!) So, up came C1391, abnormal leak in accumulator.
    So soon at home I go on line to investigate, uh oh!!! I am not the only one here!! Now this is the begining stages for me and after reading through forums, not looking [non-permissible content removed]. In the mean time for those of you dealing with this and from what I understand shelling out major dollars. This is for you...
    http://www.checkvscsystem.com (post your story and issue)

    Complaints, concerns and issues need to be directed to this site
    http:www.nhtsa.gov/
    After reading several posts, I do believe we have a problem here. Please check into this if you are having this same issue. It seems to be quite apparent. God speed to all
  • leotskleotsk Posts: 13
    64000 miles water pump failed and gave to dealer for repair. While I was in dealer talked to few Toyota users and many of them had same problem.

    Called Toyota USA and they are not accepting any design issues with water pump.
  • chuck28chuck28 Posts: 259
    How much did the dealer charge you for the repair?
    Is this a v-6?
    What was the symptoms when pump failed?
    I have a 07 v-6 with 71,000 miles. I have had numerous problems with my Camry including alternator but water pump still ok for now.
    Toyota should back these water pumps with a better warranty. I have never opened a car where pump fails with the mileage you have.
    I hope you can get resolve through the dealership or get it fixed through a outside shop that would do it cheaper.
  • tony108tony108 Posts: 16
    I also have a 2007 Camry 4cly CE that had a failed water pump (slight leak) at 74,000mi. At that time, the dealer deemed that it was not a substantial enough leak although there's some splash of red stuff at the insulator underneath the hood (they want to see an actual drip to replace it) so good thing we had the 100,000 service warranty. Brought it to a different shop and had them replace the water pump with a toyota oem pump. 140,000mi now and have no leaks so far (knock on wood).
  • kadenakadena Posts: 6
    I had a 2007 Camry that I bought new, 4 cylinder. The water pump had to be replaced at 40,000 miles.
  • kadenakadena Posts: 6
    I had a 2007 Toyota Camry that I bought new. After I had it about one year I rolled up the front passenger window and the, window just fell out of the channel. Shortly after that I had a lot of trouble with the tire pressure monitoring system which finally resulted in having the computer replaced. At 40,000 miles I had the water pump replaced. I traded the car off at 72,000 miles for a 2011 Prius. I have had the Prius for two years and 30,000 miles. No problems at all with it.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,684
    The 2007 was the first year of a new design. I try to avoid any maker's first year of a new design for the reasons you listed, but CR does list it as having a few problem areas, and one of them is the water pump. Window and TPMS does not show up very frequently as problems for the 2007, either in CR or on the Internet.
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    I can't unlock/lock door when I grasp or touch the door handle. I have to manually push the button on the smartkey. Any help?
  • egoeregoer Posts: 2
    We have a 2007 Camry with 40,000 miles on it. Due to a defect in this oil hose, a leak developed in this hose and almost all of the oil leaked out of the engine. No warning light went on. We noticed abnormal noises coming out of the engine and brought the car to our local mechanic. We spent $400 with them as they diagnosed and tried to fix the problem. Unfortunately after spending this money they are unable to get the car to start. It is very likely the car has suffered substantial engine damage and any future diagnosis and repairs could result in thousands of dollars or repairs.

    This defect has resulted in catastrophic failure to the engine of our car. Presently our car is inoperable and sitting in our parking lot. We are not in a position to spend money to fix a problem that is clearly due to bad design and inferior parts by Toyota. In doing extensive research on the Internet, we found out this is a known defect with this oil hose. This is clearly the fault of Toyota and not us and many other Toyota customers.

    Not only that, we had been bringing this car to your dealership for regular service. Why at some point in time did the dealer not inform us and replace the defective part before it resulted in catastrophic failure of our car’s engine? This problem was unbeknownst to us but certainly was a known issue by Toyota.

    Hopeful that Toyota would do the right thing and assess and fix our car at no cost to us, we called Toyota USA. They told us to call our local dealer. We called Penn Toyota. Although sympathetic to our cause, they told us he was not in a position to help us and we should call Toyota USA. We called Toyota USA again and they told us that since there was no official recall and our car is out of warranty that they would not do anything without us paying. We spent $22,000 on this car which is now worth nothing to us because of poor design and inferior parts. This should be on Toyota to fix on their dime, not ours.

    I have been posting on Toyota USA Facebook page to let other people know about this and put some pressure on Toyota, first they were deleting my posts and now they have taken away my ability to post on their page. Quite ironic to me on the 4th of July a massive corporation is censoring me. Toyota’s refusal to do the right thing here is outrageous.
    Beware other Camry owners of this problem. It is also a problem with other Toyota models.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Posts: 41
    Sorry to hear about your problem. This car has been recalled 3 times. What the idiots at
    Toyota did was to install a "rubber" oil line!!! You heard me right they installed a rubber
    oil line that goes from the rear(?) of the engine and alongside the manifold. My 2007 camry 6 cyl did the same as your car. I had to pay for the tow but they supposedly fixed the problem. A high
    school freshman knows that you don't run petroleum products through a "rubber" hose. Make sure they do the third "fix" and not the second because they apparently needed 3 to fix the problem. I got the dealer to fix it at no cost to me. If the slimebag dealer you are talking with
    will not fix it free then take him to small claims. Also report it to the BBB (better business bureau) for some reason or other these ripoff artists don't like to be on the net or hounded by
    the BBB. Hope this helps.
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    never mind-- i had one of the keyfobs still in the car while trying to use the other one to lock/unlock. problem solved
  • anniem4anniem4 Posts: 1
    During my last service at the dealer, manager suggested I replace my water pump because it had a "slight leak," at a cost of $650.00. Change the transmission fluid at $150.00. I felt like he was trying to scare me. That was last summer. I've had two oil changes since then and had another mechanic look at it and the mechanic says he cant find a leak so I should not worry about it. I want to go to another Toyota dealer for my next oil change and am worried that they will just use the computerized old report and tell me the same thing. How else can I have my car checked out and how much should a replaced water pump cost if I need it. I have a 2007 camry 4cyl XLE that has given me no problems so far. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • don530don530 Posts: 1
    At around 90,000 miles I too had uneven stopping, I had the rotors turned but they did not last long as I think they were warped. I went to Auto Zone and new front rotors with a two year guarantee cost $80 and since the pads were only less than half worn I did not even replace them,I replaced the rear pads only that was 30,000 miles ago and that took care of the problem. My 2007 Camry V6 is the best car I ever had and that includes many, many Mercedes. Now at 120,000 miles it is going great all I have had to do so far is change the oil and I do that every 5000miles, I do not use synthetic. I do all the servicing myself(I do not go to the dealer) My other car a mercedes uses synthetis and I Change it every 10,000 miles. The camry has a timing chain and it will last hopefully another 100,000.miles.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    edited July 2013
    I have a 2007 V6 Toyota Camry XLE with 84,000+ miles which I purchased new. I use this vehicle for my business, so as such, most of the miles are highway miles. The oil and filter has been changed every 2,500 miles by the selling dealer, (MY CHOICE), and I use an oil additive BG/MOA in the oil at every oil and filter change. ------ The engine never uses any oil between oil and filter changes. I also use a fuel additive at every fill up. (MY CHOICE). ------ Now that my Camry has reached this mileage, it has become my "back up business car!" My primary business vehicle is a 2010 - four cylinder Chevrolet Malibu LTZ. This vehicle now has 45,000 miles and it gets the same preventive maintenance. (MY CHOICE) ----- Both vehicles give me at least 30 mpg on the highway at 55 mph. (I do not use name brand gasoline, and both vehicles use 87 octane fuel!) ------ I have none of the problems that are listed on this board for the 2007 Camry. ----- I also "warm up my vehicle" on cold winter mornings prior to driving it! (HERE AGAIN, IT IS MY CHOICE!) -------{When driving it to the interstate highway, on cold winter mornings, I drive it in "manual 3" until I feel that the transmission has reached normal operating temperature. ----- Upon entering the interstate, I place the transmission into DRIVE. I have never experience the 3 to 4 transmission flare up!} ---- NOTE: ---- (I did have the flexible oil hose replaced on the engine under the extended warranty when I read about the issue on this board.) But outside of that issue, the Camry has been a GREAT vehicle. ----- Now the Camry is out of the extended warranty. I will keep the vehicle till it reaches 100,000 miles, then I will replace it with another Toyota, possibly a Camry, Avalon or a Rav4. What is interesting is that the Camry is a V6 with an six speed transmission and it easily get 30 MPG on the highway. The Malibu is a 4 cylinder with a six speed transmission and it also gets 30 MPG on the highway. What does Toyota know about engine design that Chevrolet does not know? The Toyota engine is much more powerful than the Chevrolet engine! ------ Best regards! ------ Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • hi i am having the exact same problem with my 2007 camry.... when i am stopping at a signal.... the rpm goes to 500... and hot air coming out...
    did you finally fix the problem....any help would be appreciated
  • I have owned 5 Toyota Camrys. The 2007 I currently own has 52k miles in 7 years ( purchased new in jan 2007) once I hit 50 k mi the car started using oil and the lifters sound noisy. The dealers wont accknowledge there is a problem said everything is normal. I did tell the sales manager about the problem and he played dumb even after directing him to a few websites including consumeraffais.com . I think it is a shame that Toyota is not resolving this problem. (probably due to the cost to repair and the Toyota stock price "TM" currently at $130 a share will drop like a rock. I will not be buying another Toyota in the future. So GOOD LUCK in the future TOYOTA
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,684
    try different dealer
  • 6 speed transmission.
    Transmission fluid check for 2007 Camry 3.5 liter V6 and 6 speed automatic transmission.
    This transmission does not have a dip stick. It is a sealed transmission.
    Toyota will tell you the transmission must be flushed rather than checked. This is not true.
    Toyota calls for special service tools and I suspect a person could do without them. The tools are:
    Toyota Diagnostic Tester Kit TOY220036
    CAN Interface Module Kit 01002744 (Controller Area Network for automobiles)
    Transmission Fill System 00002-11100-02
    These special service tools will most likely be out of the price range for the home user. Once again I suspect the tools are not necessary.
    Filling the transmission or topping off the transmission level is done by delivering transmission fluid into a fill hole and observing when the transmission fluid has a slow constant drain from the lower overflow plug. This must be done at specific temperatures with the engine running.
    The refill plug is on the left side of the engine transmission about 4” from the front and about 1” above the vertical center line. You can access it by turning the wheels to the far left and taking wheel well apron off with a 10mm socket. Use a 24mm socket to remove the fill hole plug.
    The overflow plug is on the bottom of the transmission fluid pan and slightly recessed. Use a 6mm hex key to unscrew it.
    Procedure:
    Make sure your car is on level ground or elevate the car and keep it level. During the following test do not slam on the brakes while the wheels are turning and the car is on jacks.
    Circulate the transmission fluid by starting the engine in Park.
    Move the gear selector from Park to Reverse.
    Note: Allow each gear to engage fully when shifting gears.
    Move the gear selector from Reverse to Neutral.
    Move the gear selector from Neutral to Drive.
    If the wheels are free running, press GENTLY on the brakes to stop them and return the gear selector to the Park position. (stopping wheels too quickly could throw car off jack stands).
    Check the A/T fluid by allowing the engine to idle until the A/T fluid temperature reaches 102 degrees Fahrenheit. (39 degrees C) I will suggest a diagnostic tester, a digital thermocouple temperature sensor on the transmission pan or just touching the transmission pan and feeling for 102 degrees which is the temperature you would have on your forehead with a very bad fever.
    Remove the overflow plug located on the bottom of the transmission pan with the engine idling. Use a 6mm hex key. The plug seals the overflow tube. The tube extends further up into the transmission to establish the proper fluid level. Only the overflow tube plug is removed. The transmission fluid must be filled to rise above this tube and then down through the overflow tube and out where the plug is removed.
    Check that fluid comes out of the overflow tube while the A/T fluid temperature is in the range of 104 – 113 degrees F. (40 – 45 C)
    If fluid comes out, reinstall the overflow plug.
    Note: The transmission fluid could be low and the overflow tube could have a small amount of transmission fluid in it. Don’t let this fool you. Make sure the transmission fluid flows for a second or two.
    If fluid does not come out add A/T fluid. (Genuine ATF WS Transmission Fluid) by removing the refill plug on the left side of the transmission.
    Add fluid until it comes out the overflow tube.
    After the A/T fluid temperature drops below 102 degrees F, recheck A/T fluid level again by running the engine until the transmission fluid reaches 104 – 113 digress F. You can use a hose with gravity feed or a hose and squeeze bottle to put transmission fluid in the fill hole. Make sure fluid gently streams out of the overflow tube. Then reinstall the overflow plug.
    Install the refill plug.
    This procedure and pictures can be seen at http://tkpro.com/trans.htm

    Transmission flush.
    It is my guess the sealed Toyota transmission is subject to the same flushing conditions as any automatic transmission. You cannot remove all the fluid and then replace all the fluid. You must insert fluid as fluid drains. You can only drain a percentage of the fluid because the torque converter retains a lot of fluid.
    If you drop the transmission fluid pan you will remove 3 to 4 quarts of transmission fluid. Then you reinstall the transmission pan and add the same amount you drained. Use the above fluid check to make certain the level is correct. If the car holds 12 quarts of transmission fluid and you replace 4 quarts you will replace 33% of the fluid. The next time you repeat this same procedure you will replace 33% of the 66% that remained in the transmission from the first flush. This is as efficient as any form of transmission flush where you do not remove the transmission from the car. The percentages of transmission fluid renewal are as follows.
    Removal of 4 quarts at a time. (this could be done on every other oil change)
    1. 4 quarts or 33% of 100% = 66% unchanged.
    2. 4 quarts of 33% of 66% - 43% unchanged
    3. 4 quarts or 33% of 43% = 29% unchanged
    4. 4 quarts or 33% of 29% = 19% unchanged
    5. 4 quarts or 33% of 19% = 12% unchanged.
    As you can see, by the 5th change you have replaced 88% of the transmission fluid if 4 quarts can be changed on every other oil change.
    You will have to make note of the condition of transmission pan seal and determine if it needs replacement. You can also clean the pan and the magnets in the bottom of the pan that catch metal particles. I do not know at this time if there is a filter that needs to be replaced. Most transmission places tell me not to replace it if the transmission is functioning properly.

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