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I'm wondering if synthetic oil would provide more protection for my engine than anything else out there. Your thoughts?
I wanted to say if 5W-20 Mobil 1 would help, other than the 0W-40 Mobil 1 you suggested, since the 0W-40 is not recommended by Toyota and would therefore void my warranty.
I would just like to share my experience with our 2007 camry 2.4 4 cyl. When it was around 32k it started making a slight noise when not fully warmed up (piston slap type of noise). I tried lots of types of oil, mobil 1 synthetic 5w-20 and 5w-30, pennzoil 5w-20, mobil 1 0w-30, and even castrol 5w-20 and 5w30. It usually burns around 1qt. of oil every 5k miles. Recently, I tried the new pennzoil ultra 5w-30 and the sound every start-up disappeared. I don't know the consumption yet, I'm thinking that it has something to do with the european formula theory because that's what ferrari uses?
Here's a description of Mobil 1's 0W-40 in an Amazon listing:
Product Description
Mobil 1 0W-40 exceeding industry standards and the major leading builder requirements is the cornerstone of the performance reserve that lets Mobil 1 0W-40 keep performing well after conventional oils cannot. Mobil 1 0W-40 provides the widest range of protection -- providing the extreme cold start protection of an 0W grade and the high temperature protection of an SAE 40 grade. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets key industry and car builder specifications for: Mercedes MB 229.5, BMW Longlife 01, Porsche Approval List 2002, VW 502.00/505.00/503.01, GM-LL-A-025 (gasoline), GM-LL-B-025 (diesel), ACEA A3, B3/B4 and API SM/CF. Mobil 1's viscosity is recommended by many European car builders, its wide range providing unsurpassed levels of protection and an overall smooth driving experience. Mobil 1 0W-40 keeps engines starting in Arctic-extreme cold, and it cleans deposits, sludge and varnish often formed in high temperature operating conditions. If you want total engine protection, excellent fuel economy and a product recommended for applications under warranty, you want Mobil 1. The world's leading synthetic motor oil, it features a proprietary SuperSyn anti-wear technology that provides performance beyond conventional motor oils. Technology that allows Mobil 1 to exceed the toughest standards of Japanese, European and U.S. car builders -- and to provide exceptional protection against engine wear, under normal or even the most extreme conditions.
PLEASE NOTE THE LAST SENTENCE. This oil could not exceed the toughest standards of Japanese car builders and also void their warranties!!!!
What is probably going on here is twofold; 1> 0W-40 is not mentioned as a recommended oil in the North American Toyota owner's manuals; because of a POLITICAL ISSUE. But if this oil is not mentioned in owners manuals; that does NOT mean its use will void warranty coverage. This situation came about because, in their well meaning ignorance; the US Congress passed a federal law requiring all new car dealers to only use oils labeled "energy conserving" in every car they service. Energy conserving oil is produced by thinning out the oil so that it creates less friction. The effect of this modification is to improve gas mileage by typically less than 1 mile per gallon. But there is also a substantial downside to this trick; the downside is that it reduces the oil's protection against piston wear and increases the rate of oil consumption.
Shortly after this legislation was introduced, and all new car dealers in the US were forced to use only this type of oil; Mazda RX-8 rotary engines began failing at abnormally low mileages (40,000-70,000 miles) in US service. At the same time; RX-8 rotaries in Canada and Europe were running well beyond 100,000 miles with no problems. The Canadian and European RX-8s were using the manufacturer's recommended 20W-50 oil viscosity; which had now become illegal for dealerships to use in the US.
At this same time; Toyota owners began noticing and complaining of increased piston slap and oil consumption; particularly in Camry V-6s.
As a result of this situation; knowledgable owners stopped having their oil changed by dealerships; and instead began having independent garages change their oil or changing it themselves; so they could continue using Mobil 1 in 0W-40.
Back in the days when I was working on British motorcycles; we always noted how much clattering mechanical noise Triumph 650 Bonneville engines produced. Here in California; the hotshoes always used SAE 50 oil in those motors; because they would blow up under hard driving if thinner oil was used. But one friend rebuilt his Bonneville; and then broke it in on 10W-30. And that motor sounded like a finely polished jewel. The owner then switched it over to SAE 50 when it was fully broken in; and it began clattering and sounding loose, just like all the other Bonnevilles.
All else be damned.
But as the engines in my yard equipment, lawn/garden tractor,etc, wear and begin to use/burn more oil my practice is to use a higher fixed weight annual drain and refill.
I have never done that with any car but then I have never had reason to worry about oil consumption.
There's one thing that I still don't get--if this is "normal", then why are so many owners not experiencing this problem? After all, this is a mass produced engine, and so if it's a design issue, then we'd see it across the board, but the fact is that it's not widespread. I know that not all engines are exactly alike, but they're built under pretty tight tolerances these days; wouldn't it mean that mine missed the mark?
Random component tolerances, just must be within specific +/1 range.
Yes, TIGHT individual component tolerances, overall tolerances may end up on theFAR of the bell curve.
I4, number 1 piston is full plus weight tolerance, full minus diameter tolerance. Number 4 is full - weight tolerance, shall I go on?
All the tolerances in your engine, just by pure happenstance, randomness, ended up in the wrong end of overall tolerances insofar as those that dictate oil consumpion.
I know that the current generation K engine has some people reporting engine oiconsumptionon as well.
BTW Only small number of 2.4L 4cyl engines affected by the oil burning, most of the time problem is very mild. On my 2009 Camry I need to add 1/4 of a quart after 2000-2500 miles. It doesn't get worse with millage. 2.4L engine had been around for quite a while and proven to be extremely reliable. While I don't like adding oil to my almost 3 year old "new " car, I don't see how this is a major problem. As far as I know current Camrys use 2.7L 4cyl engine that doesn't have oil burning issues.
From what I heard on other forums this is normal. I have been driving Hondas for 15 years and haven't had this issue (unless it was an alignment problem). If it is indeed normal, I can't understand how owners can tell when they have an alignment problem.
Thank you.
$374 for replacing the oil pan gasket sounds awfully high to me. Virtually every shop in town uses a standardized labor time estimating book called a flat rate manual. This book lists the amount of time it takes for an experienced mechanic to do each repair job on popular vehicles. Phone a local repair shop and ask them the flat rate time estimate for replacing the oil pan gasket on a 2007 Camry. You'll need to tell them whether your car has a 4 cylinder or V-6 engine. Once you have the time estimate (better get one from several shops to make sure they give you accurate information) all you need to do to determine the fairness of a price quote is to find out the hourly labor rate of the shop you're dealing with; and multiply that figure times the flat rate time estimate. The result will be the labor cost at that shop for the job (plus the cost of a new oil pan gasket; which will probably be less than $20). Some shops may want to also change the oil as part of this operation; which would add the cost of oil and maybe an oil filter to the job.
Sometimes an oil change place installs a non standard or poorly fitting gasket on the oil drain plug. Other oil change places do not adequately tighten the oil filter; or do not adequately tighten the oil drain plug. If the place which changes your oil is doing that; there will always be an oil leak. There are too many inexperienced or fearful employees out there. I would get more than one trustworthy opinion about the source of the leak. There are also too many know-it-alls out there who need to sound important; or who want to take your money.
Couldn't agree with you more on the downward decline of Camry quality. I had a 1997 4 cyl stickshift.........and LOVED it. Gave it to my daughter, still running strong, when we bought our 2007 in June '06. The new one is NOTHING like its 10 year old predecessor. Shakes, rattles, shifting (auto) irregularities, and now an annoying 'clatter' (for lack of a better word) coming from underneath the front end when driving at moderate speeds over uneven surfaces.
Not inclined to buy another Camry after all this. (And we had a third one BEFORE the 97, so it's not like we're disloyal!) They've cheapened the marque as far as I'm concerned.
BTW, if your mechanic isn't sure where to look for the noise, ask him if there are stabilizer links on the ends of the front sway bar. (not sure if there even IS a sway bar on the front of these puppies......but that's what was making the noise on my 325i; it was a $27 part and a $30 installation......cheap to get rid of that migraine-inducing rattle!)
Good luck, buddy.
Mike
The only thing I don't see referenced is the "THEY" you refer to. Who dat?
Additionally, how long have you owned the car? Did you buy it new? Regardless of who you bought it from.....who's been doing the maintenance? Has it had this leak from the day you bought it?..........or just since 'someone' worked on it.
Call me skeptical/critical.....but I'd FIRST be pointing my finger at the party who's been doing things to the car since you bought it.....assuming it didn't leak when you first brought it home.
Just my 2c.
Michael
It appears this isn't a big problem so by delay getting it fixed isn't a problem. I check the oil level periodically and it's fine, so I'm not losing that much between oil changes. The vibration makes sense as this vehicle does seem to have more vibration to it than the Toyota I owned back in 1980.
As for maintenance - all I have had done is have the oil changed, fluids checked and the water pump was replaced while still under warranty. It has 112,000 miles on it - should I be doing any other service. According to the manual - I don't need to - but the dealership is always recommending other things.
Thank you.
(My ex always took care of the cars - so I am feeling a little lost)
Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com) sells an OE quality Beck Arnley cam position sensor for this model under part #1800500 for $47.79 plus shipping. Here's a link to a photo of this part; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2785371
My daughter who has taken our 2007 LE as her own, is a very reasonable driver, on good roads. Rear pads needed replaced at 52K miles (mainly highway driving), front's are still fine when I recently checked them at 60K. No leaky struts, and since she is the single driver now, never adjusts the seat.
For daughter #2 on the other hand, I needed to replace all 4 brakepads at 45K on her vehicle, same roads. She also is a reasonable driver, but does definitely drive slightly harder.
Personally, I've replaced some of my other vehicles front pads at 25 and 30K.
There may have been life left on those pads of yours, did you look at them when they took them off and replaced them?
Who told you to replace these items? If you were a cab driver in NYC then
I could understand. But not for pleasure driving even if only in the city.
TOTAL PARTS $189.77, TOTAL LABOR & PARTS $543.16
I've owned 5 other Toyotas and NEVER had to repair brakes and rotors
this soon. I'm very disappointed.
I 'joined' when I discovered (while researching my automatic transmission problems) that Toyota and its dealers have a "code of silence" to only inform customers who COMPLAIN about some related 'symptoms' that there may actually be a SAFELY concern with their automobile.
In my case, there was even a published Technical Service Bulletin issued about my lagging acceleration problem (dangerous at intersections), but my dealer didn't even KNOW about it......AND he was reluctant to believe ME when I told him I'd found a copy of it on the Internet. NOT GOOD!!
The red long-life coolant dries to a crystal solid, so unless it is a very large leak, you won't see a puddle on the ground, just pink crud around the waterpump.
Thanks ofr any help, chuck