2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • willc15willc15 Member Posts: 5

    Did that fix the problem?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Compression ignition, A/F mixture detonation, pre-ignition, due to the heat of compression, can often be overcome via enriching the mixture slightly thereby COOLING the cylinder "fill" prior to the piston upstroke.

    But. If the A/F mixture is "igniting" BEFORE the ignition spark how/why would RETARDING, delaying the ignition, be of any help.

    Methinks you are referring to knock/ping due to a too early ignition spark which can be the case but these days rarely is.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    This morning I warmed up my car ( 2007 Camry V-6) outside in the driveway after the big snow storm in Chicago. When I moved it forward up the driveway to clear off the rest of the driveway I noticed a line of colored spots in the snow from where I was parked. The spots were from the back of the car to the front which appears to be lined up with the exhaust. The spots were light green in color. Could condensation from the exhaust cause this color? Or do I have other leaks?
    I believe Toyota uses a pink antifreeze?
    Thanks for any help, chuck
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259

    Ahhhhhh, just for those interested, I figured out what was wrong with my Outlander (nothing). As my dealership supposedly found and fixed that my transfercase was leaking, which I had doubts about it as transmission fluid is NOT neon green/yellow color. When the snow melted there were no drips found under my Outlander, then another big snow storm hit and the little yellow/green neon drips continued. So I went under the car and I didn't notice any leakage, then I googled it and apparently in my area they started using new salt mixed with sugar solutions to melt away the snow :s Apparently when the heat from the exaust (which is located in the middle) that has little snow residue (mixed with salt/sugar) left over gets on clean snow it will leave little neon/green spots (dripping water mixed with salt/sugar).And this would make sense because as I mentioned earlier, when there is no snow on the ground, I don't see any leakage on the pavement and all the fluid levels seem to be normal. This thing has been driving me nuts for the past few weeks but seems I finally figured it out.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Good. Thanks for sharing that info.
  • willc15willc15 Member Posts: 5
    Ok well I went and got this checked out by a 4th mechanic (second that is a toyota dealership) They are saying that the reason my abs, brake light and check engine light are coming on is because one of my tires is taller then the others. Does this seem to make sense? Originally they were all the same exact size, but now they are saying one is an inch smaller?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited February 2011
    There is an additional cause of pinging besides incorrect timing or self ignition, which you may not be aware of. It happens when an engine is properly timed for most efficient combustion; but the owner chooses to use a fuel with lower octane than the engine requires for best performance and economy. Igniting low octane fuel with a stock timed spark produces a faster spreading flame front during combustion than does higher octane fuel. Because this flame front moves more rapidly than it was intended to; the pressure wave strikes the piston BERFORE it reaches the top of the compression stroke. And that causes pinging. This is the most common cause of pinging in modern, high efficiency engines. Since the vehicle's mixture trimming controls can legally add only minor amounts of mixture enrichment (less than 10%); if this was done, it would make the pinging WORSE, because a rich mixture burns FASTER than a lean mixture. This would make the flame front strike the piston even earlier!! The only instances where enriching the mixture will cool the cylinder down is when massive amounts of extra fuel are added (20% or more). This is a drastic type of change, which is not usable in passenger cars, because it causes the carbon monoxide emissions to increase beyond legal limits. However; this technique is used in race cars and top fuel dragsters; where emissions are not an issue. This is why spark retard, and not mixture enrichment, is the standard method of pinging control used in modern production cars.

    It is also not well understood by most people that compression ignition, self ignition and detonation do not normally take place in a motor on which the mixture strength and ignition timing is properly adjusted. Self ignition is typically caused by prolonged running with either excessively lean air/fuel mixtures, or excessively advanced ignition timing. That's when the spark plug electrodes or carbon deposits heat to the point where they glow; which can ignite fuel without a spark. But since modern engines are equipped with automatic mixture strength regulation and automatic ignition timing optimization; the conditions which create detonation cannot and do not normally occur. Variations in fuel octane are compensated for with the detonation sensor controlling the amount of spark advance. Variations in mixture strength are compensated for with the fuel injection feedback loop control; which is driven by the signal from the exhaust oxygen sensor. These two systems keep the mixture strength and timing set optimally under the full range of possible operating conditions. That is why detonation is no longer an issue in modern engines; and variations in fuel octane can now be easily tolerated. So pinging after the spark takes place is the only abnormal combustion factor which still requires compensation. And that is now regulated nicely by the knock sensor controlling the amount of spark advance.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Every thing you say is PERFECTLY true.

    Just as long as the engine is under a fairly light load, simply cruising along at a relatively constant speed wherein the "standard 14.7:1 mixture ratio is used. Obviously engine knock/ping under those conditions, LOW cylinder "fill", would be somewhat unusual.

    But open the throttle just a bit for acceleration and since the A/F mixture must be enriched to as high as 12:1 the engine control system switches from the use of the upstream oxygen sensor to the MAF/IAT sensors for controlling the mixture.

    It is in this "mode", high engine load/loading, that knock/ping is most likely to occur and the A/F mixture can be more freely modified to satisfy varying engine operating parameters.

    Whereas there can be NO A/F mixture variation under control of the upstream oxygen other than what is REQUIRED to keep the exhaust oxygen content to ZERO.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    I hope you're right, buddy, cause I have exactly the same green spots under my 2007 4cyl Camry.
    What a coincidence if Niagara Region (Ontario, Canada) is using the same salt on their roads as your region.
    By the way, what part of the continent ARE you from?

    Cheers.....on this sunny day!

  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    I'm in Chicago, Il I have a v-6 2007 Camry. The post of the salt and green spots was from another blog I copied. It makes a lot osf sense. I also found my neighbors were having the same green spots.
    I hope nobody gets ripped off when taking it in for service thinking they got a leak.

    Take care, chuck
  • shonden58shonden58 Member Posts: 2
    I just got on your forum so need to read up. I've been pretty sorry since I bought my '07 XLE. Mostly rattles and creaks but now I've got the "piston slap". I had the car in at least a dozen times for various rattles in the moonroof, dash, doors, etc. Got some fixed but still have a persistent one in the area where the windshield and dash meet, right hand side. Sharp cracking noise whenever I hit a sharp bump. The dealership, of course, can't hear it. Anyone had this one?

  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    There is a service bulletin that addresses that very problem. Had it performed on mine and the rattle stopped. Remind your dealer about it and hopefully they can fix it. It was a major problem when the car was first built in 07.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Just so you are using the correct language with the dealership, the term is:
    TSB = Technical Service Bulletin

    Take your documentation with you that shows you had it in for them to fix these problems during the warranty period, perhaps they'd be willing to perform this work now.
  • shonden58shonden58 Member Posts: 2
    Hi. Thanks for this. Do you happen to have a number or identifier for that service bulletin?

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The dealership needs to look, but here's a couple I know about, that may or may not be applicable to your VIN number (only the dealership knows for sure).

    NV009-06 Upper/lower windshield Tick Noise
    NV006-06 Moon Roof Rattle
    BO-015-06 RH Interior A-pillar garnish loose
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, I was wondering your thoughts on this or anyone else that might have insight on this.
    My 2007 V-6 Camry had the Rpm flare from day one. I purchased the car in July 2006. The first step the dealer ship took was to change out the valve body. After the flares were still there and other symptoms as well they changed out the Trans. Ever since the valve body change I notice my Gas MPG was never the same. I never get close to the 30 MPG on the Highway I should get. I never get past 25 MPG
    My thought was at that time there was no computer fix seeing that the problem was new at that time and it can take a year sometimes to write the software to flash the computer so they did what they could to and switched out the valve and trans. Which never resolved the flare problem. The flare problem got resolved after my car was in for a complaint for the trans. At that time they told me there was no problem they could find but strangely enough I never had the flare problem again when I got the car back.. The car was running as good as it ever had for about two weeks and then it was shifting strange again like down shifting more severely but never flare again. It appeared they flashed my computer seeing they had disconnect the battery when I got my car back from service.
    It was always in there best interest not to admit to another Trans fix so I wouldn't qualify for the lemon law.

    Is it possible I have a modified valve body that should never have been swapped out in the first place and the computer fix which is out there now does not match up with the Modified Valve body they put in during 2006.
    Thank you for your insight, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556

    That is a very good theory you came up with. However, I certainly have no way to know if it is, or is not really the source of the problem. And I expect the dealership will not talk about this; because it is a question that goes beyond their training about routine answers to routine problems. So it seems that the only way you could find out whether this is or is not the solution would be to pay out of your pocket to have a new valve body installed. Nevertheless; it might be illuminating to check with the dealership's parts department about whether the 2010 Camry (which still has the same motor as yours) uses the same valve body as the 2007 Camry...

    I did some more checking; and found that the 2007-2010 Camrys all use the same Aisin E250E 5 speed automatic (2007 was the first year that transmission was used). However, the 2007-2010 Lexus RX350 uses the same motor as the Camry; but it uses a DIFFERENT TRANSMISSION: Aisin U151F 5 speed. That transmission uses the same oil pan gasket as yours; but the internals are different. This transmission is also used in the 2007-2010 Toyota RAV4 Sport, and the 2007-2010 Toyota Highlander, along with the same 3.5L 2GRFE motor as your Camry.

    It may be that the reason the RX350, RAV4, Sienna and Highlander use a different transmission than the Camry is that they have 4 wheel drive; which might optimize with different gear ratios. They are also heavier vehicles than the Camry; which would also require using different gear ratios.

    Oddly enough; some of these vehicles come equipped with a 4 speed automatic (Aisin U140F or U241E). That might be preferable in vehicles which are expected to receive more off road use, and thus don't need the complication of a 5 speed. Or; it might be intended for use in non-US markets (where EPA fuel efficiency regulations do not apply).

    I expect that these other transmissions may be physically interchangeable with yours; but I don't know whether they are compatible with your Camry's computer. I expect they probably are not compatible. And that would leave the valve body as the only off the shelf option.

    It may be that one of the aftermarket automatic transmission performance shops has worked out a reprogramming fix for this issue; though it is specialized enough that it might be more than they care to address. But you could try B & M (http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS) and write them a note about this.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, thank you for your response. I really appreciate your knowledge and answers in this matter.
    I was wondering when you mention Aisin E250E 5 speed automatic does that refer to the V-6 6 speed transmission which I have. (U660E transmission)
    What I need is somebody from Toyota that would take the time and investigate that I may have this problem with my car. Hard to come by.
    Thank you for all your insight and please don't hesitate to contact me with any more info that may be helpful for my car. chuck
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I too appreciate reading Zaken's posts. He is very knowledgable. I especially like how he lists the details/differences. Thanks, from another reader, Z.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556

    I didn't realize that your Camry had the 6 speed. Most of them had a 5 speed automatic. The valve body would not be the same between the 5 speed and the 6 speed. My catalogs are not complete on this issue, and do not list the U660E transmission. I have noticed that the 2007 Lexus IS350 and GS350 both use a different Aisin 6 speed than yours. Theirs is a A760E or A760H. At least ons person who posts in the Toyota Nation forum (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/index.php/</t-322230.html) feels that the U660 trannys are inherently junk. If that is true (which I suspect it is) then if you could substitute an A760E or A760H in your car, that could make a big difference. But I have no information about compatibility issues.

    You know; the one source who would be most likely to know the answer to these questions is TRD (Toyota Racing Development). But whether they would be willing to talk about this is another issue.

    Sorry I can't be of more help. You might check the posts in the Toyota Nation forum listed above.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hi, guys. Here's a little techno-challenge for you. Not engine or tranny related, so hopefully it will be easier than most problems to solve:

    My 2007, cheapo Camry (CE-4cyl/automatic) ran for 94,000 kilometers (about 50K miles for my American friends) before I had a nice new set of Michelins installed last Fall to replace the factory ones.

    Ever since the new tires were installed I've noticed an increasingly irritating noise coming from the right-rear corner of the car. It's bigger than a rattle.....but smaller than a clunk, in terms of loudness and severity. The sound comes every time the right side of the car passes over changes in road surface: from uneven pavement joints to manhole covers to traintrack crossings; even lumps of dirt or snow accumulations will set it off.

    My guess is that it's something related to suspension......and possibly related to the relatively recent tire replacement.

    My question is, do you think it's the age of the car alone that is now the cause (i.e. the right/rear shock/strut has simply given up the ghost?).....or do you suppose it's something less "mechanical" in nature that may have occurred during the tire installation? (e.g. displacement of a rubber grommet or bumper of some sort in the suspension that may have dropped out or shifted when the wheels were allowed to "drop" to their furthest/lowest point while dangling from the hoist?) (Or maybe there's even something inside the strut that doesn't like being fully 'extended' after spending its entire life with the full weight of the car sitting on it!?)

    Remarkably (or not)....I have EXACTLY the same scenario on my 2004 BMW 325i.....albeit at a much lower mileage number...but on a 2/3 year older car. The sidewalls of the Continentals that came with it were badly cracked (too much sitting and not enough driving from the previous owner - I bought it in '07 with 4K miles on it - so I recently outfitted it with a new set of Bridgestones).

    The Bimmer clunks/rattles in the same way, under the same road surface conditions as the Camry. It's almost spooky to hop from one car to the other and have the same noise problem.

    I DID have an independent (trustworthy) mechanic crawl under and hoist up and bounce around the back end of the 325 a few days ago.....and he thinks it IS a shock mount bushing of some sort......but feels it "isn't bad enough" to replace "yet". (He took it for a two block test drive, but hasn't had the "pleasure" of an extended, half-day ride with all the clatter that accompanies it!)

    Any thoughts...or anyone with similar experiences......and a cure? :)

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    You could be onto something in your middle paragraph. Let's hope they didn't damage some link component when it was hoisted. I have seen damage a few times to cars when they were not careful and it slipped off the hoist. One time was to my own Camry, but it was not the hoist slipping, the idiot positioned it in the wrong place and literally pushed the floor up under near where the accelerator pedal was. Then they tried to blame it on rust!!! I never went back to that shop. (well technically i did once, and they installed a timing belt in a van i had {incorrectly, it broke 12000 mi later} even though it was only there for a work estimate when i had an offer to purchase it). And THAT was the last straw.

    I would look for obvious damage to control links and all around for damage if the lift had slipped or was put on the wrong component. If the noise was not there on the way to the tire shop, and was there on the trip home makes that visit suspect in some way. If i could see inside the strut design, it would be easier to have an opinion on an extension-related cause.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    At the mileage now on your 4 year old car; I would be surprised if it were either caused by bad shock bushings, or strut wear. But I have often found similar issues which were caused by a relatively heavy object (such as a scissor jack) which was left unsecured in the trunk or the spare tire compartment. For some reason, it seems that people overlook such obvious isssues while favoring the possibility of more serious mechanical problems.
  • sph626camrysph626camry Member Posts: 1
    Hello all!
    I am completely at a lost with my Camry. So here is the whole story and hopefully some can help me out! My car all of a sudden stopped working. I went to go and start it up and the lights were dim, the radio will not turn on, the ABS light and brake light are on... So this is what I did. I had the alternator replaced, and the battery replaced.. HOWEVER the car is still not holding charge. It is only running at 11Volts. Now I had the fuse box checked... everything is fine there. So now the car is stuck in my driveway, will not move out of park, and the ABS light and brake light is on? Does anyone have any suggestions or have even heard of this before?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited February 2011
    It sounds like a short somewhere. When they replaced your battery, if they were halfways observant at all they would see (or even hear) a substantial spark when attach the batt cables. Unless it is an intermittent short.

    Sounds like it might be in the ABS somewhere. Why woukld that be on if the key is off.

    It could be so many things. Needs tons more info.

    If u can use a digital mulitmeter, do this.

    Read the instructions for measuring amps (current).

    Turn off everything u can think of in the car. Very important...heater fans, radio, EVERYTHING you can. Turn key off. Close doors, trunk glove box etc. Anything with a light or motor or heating element etc. EVERYTHING. Remove the negative cable from your battery. Then click meter to the 10 amp setting. Make sure you put the red lead in the 10A red position. Then take the two leads on meter and insert them in series to the battery. Put the black lead on neg ter of batt and attach the red lead to the neg cable on the car. As you do this you will see and hear at least some small spark because there are live current draws even with the key off. (radio memory, ECM memory and numerous other things.)

    I recommend doing this in the customer parking lot of your local Toy dealer in case something would have to be reflashed by the removal of the batt term cable. Keep in mind that all your radio settings etc will be probably lost unless Toy uses a small backup lithium button cell.

    As soon as u attach the meter, quickly look at the display and have your wife mark down the numbers and the position of any decimal place. This 10 A setting on the meter is a duty cycle on MOST digi meters, so do leave it attached for more than mere seconds while you look at reading. Then unhook. They higher the number the less time to leave it hooked up. If you have to, let meter cool for 2 min and rehook to observe again.

    It should be less than .5 amp. Confirm this number with a quick question to a mechanic there as that is just a guess. It maybe should be less than .25 amp also, i don't know the specs for your car.

    For reference, if you were to put the parking lights on, the meter will show probably 3 amps. I don't know if u have LED's which is less power.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Batteries wear out, and if that was the original battery then I could see your battery needing replaced (my 2007 battery was replaced probably a year ago).

    Can't imagine why you would have messed with the alternator, did it test bad?

    First, I'd get the battery on a battery charger, and get it's voltage charged up. Then take your vehicle back where you had the alternator and battery replaced, and have them do a battery and alternator test under load. Many autoparts chains will do this free of charge. If either bad, have replaced under their warranty.

    If they test okay, then you have a fully charged battery, that is proven to hold charge on it's own, with an alternator that is putting out the full rated voltage and current.

    Monitor your voltage, if it drops, then as previous poster indicated you need to track down what is drawing the current while engine off. Suspect first any electrical add on's or modifications you have done to the vehicle.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Thanks, zaken.......but, my trunk is empty.

    I guess I have to have someone unbolt the strut and check for worn bushings or wear in the strut itself.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Wondering if you had that strut looked at? I have has a hollow poping noise at times when I go over minor bumbs. Always thought it may be a strut or bushing.
    Keep in touch.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Hi everyone,

    Just thought I'd chime in with my 2007 Camry; as with some previous posters here, my Camry is also burning oil, and am very disappointed. It currently has 66000 kms on the odometer at the moment, and it burns about a litre of oil every 3000-4000 kms. The dealer suggested I switch from 5w20 to 5w30, which I did, and it has done nothing for it. I've spoken to my dealership about it, and they asked me to bring it in so that they can top it off and start measuring the oil burning rate. They also mentioned that they'd be doing a compression test, which would take a couple of hours (to no charge to me).

    Finally, the service manager told me that Toyota normally doesn't replace engines if they burn less than a litre every 2000 kms. or so, which I find absolutely ridiculous. I've owned 6 Toyotas over the past 10 years or so, and none of them burn oil. If my dealership doesn't fix this, this is going to be my last Toyota. So much for "bulletproof reliability".
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    edited March 2011
    I have 2009 4cyl LE with 30K that also burns some oil. I was using 5W-20 Penzoil in yellow cans and I had to add a quart after 2000 miles. I switched to Castrol 5W-20 and it lasts longer. I change oil every 4000 miles and it is at half level on the dip stick, so it is acceptable. I could never figure why Castrol lasts longer sine it is same 5W-20 but it works better for me. I don't like the fact that engine burns oil on such a low millage car but not much I can do about it. Water pump went out recently and had been replaced under warranty. There is nothing wrong with a car besides that but I guess we need to lower our expectations about legendary Toyota reliability.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi Canc:

    I own a 2007 XLE V6 Camry purchased new. ----- I have this vehicle service at the selling Toyota Dealer every 3,000 miles, (oil & filter changes.) ----- {I DO NOT BELIEVE IN EXTENDED OIL AND FILTER CHANGES!} ------ I also use an oil additive BG / MOA, ---- (sold by the Toyota dealer), in every oil and filter change. ----- Periodically I also use a BG fuel injector additive in the gas. ----- My Camry has 63,000+ miles, and I never use oil between oil and filter changes. ---- The vehicle is driven for hours at 65mph on a regular basis! ------ (There is the possibility that the piston rings on your engine are frozen on the piston due to a "carbon build up!" ------ This could be cleaned in a couple of ways. ---- If you run fuel injector cleaner under pressure in the fuel system to clean the injectors, this cleaner would also remove carbon from the combustion chamber. ----- You could also run the BG / MOA additive in the engine oil, and the BG / Fuel injector cleaner in the gasoline on a regular basis. ----- (These products are a little pricey, but they do the job.) ----- Frozen piston rings would pressurize the crankcase, and the PCV system would suck up the wet oil fumes causing a loss of engine oil! ------ A PCV problem would also cause your engine to use oil. ------

    Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Have you considered how LITTLE that oil costs on a MPG basis..??
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I change the oil in my '01 Porsche every spring regardless of it having not reached the 15,000 factory recommendation.
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16
    Same situation here lucky seven. Our 2007 camry ce has around 95,000 miles and it currently burns around 1 qt every 5k miles. I usually top it of at around 3k to be safe. I just wonder if the oil that is going through the pcv valve to the intake manifold will harm the catalytic converter in the long run.

    P.S. I started using mobil 1/ castrol/ pennzoil synthetic oils 5w-20 when it was around 32k miles. I only use toyota oil filter.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    In addition to the catalytic converter, you should also be concerned about the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and the Oxygen Sensor! Run some BG fuel additive in the gasoline and BG / MOA in the oil. If you have frozen rings, this could free them. ---- You could also run some fuel injector detergent through the engine, ---- through the fuel rail. This will clean up the combustion chamber along with the injectors. ---- Best regards. --------------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Dwayne a caution on additives. The Toyota Corp. does not recommend the addition of any after market oil treatment for their auto engines. If you had a problem and the oil was found to be carrying a non recommended additive, then Toyota could possibly void the warranty. Check your owner's manual. Toyota Corp has the final say, not the dealer. Too many of these like products are sold to make a high profit for the dealer.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    >I just wonder if the oil that is going through the pcv valve to the intake >manifold will harm the catalytic converter in the long run.

    I've been concerned about this as well. Very good point... could anyone comment on this?
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Hi everyone,

    Thanks for all your comments and suggestions to my original post. I'm posting this information here so that it can possibly help you guys out there too. When I contacted the service manager at my dealership, they suggested running a compression test on the engine, opening it up to see if the rings were stuck and to notice if there were any abnormalities. They did a "dry" compression test, and all cylinders were at 150, give or take a few numbers (150, 152, 148, 150). Then they did a "wet" compression test, putting a bit of oil on top of each piston, and all cylinders registered an average of 180, which, I was told, was excellent. Then they checked the PCV valve, and they said there was a little bit of crud in there, but nothing noticeable, but they cleaned it anyway. He then confirmed that my car burns 750 ml (3/4 of a quart) for every 4300 kms (2671 miles). They topped it off, told me to keep an eye on it, and when I go back for my next oil change, they'll measure it again and send off the results to Toyota. They also fed me the line that "it's written in the owner's manual that burning a litre (a quart) of oil every 1500 kms (932) is considered "acceptable" according to Toyota, so I shouldn't expect an engine rebuild. I intend to appeal that as I sure don't consider that acceptable in my book, having owned 6 Toyotas already and never witnessed this.

    Last thing Dwayne: I know you swear by additives, judging from your previous posts, but my dealership mentioned that they're more often than not snake oil, and they refused to sell me any. They also said that if I put some in my engine, that I can consider my warranty void. Just FYI.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited March 2011
    Toyota's not recommending any additives does not mean that all additives on the market are harmful. It simply means that there are enough bad ones out there (STP and Slick 50 being the most blatant examples) that the company is unwilling to risk their fortunes or reputation on the wisdom or ignorance of the average owner.

    Those of us who are knowledgable and experienced enough to be familiar with specific additives which have proved beneficial over the long run need not worry about Toyota covering their corporate behind with a legal caveat. The likelihood of a substantial mechanical failure in a properly maintained Toyota motor is small enough that the benefits of certain specific additives in increasing engine life outweigh the potential risk of punishment by Toyota; if a freak problem were to arise with the engine. In addition; the Toyota corporation is not unresponsive to appeals based on reason. If it can be demonstrated to them in an appeal that the particular additive which you (or your dealer) uses is not harmful, and is actually beneficial; I highly doubt that they will play the power game and go Nazi on you.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It makes no functional difference whether the consumed oil goes through the PCV valve into the intake manifold, or through the breather hose into the air filter housing, or goes past the valve stem seals and through the valve guides into the combustion chamber, or goes up past the oil rings and compression rings into the combustion chamber. There is enough heat and turbulence in the catalytic converter that it can EASILY handle a quart of oil passing through it in 4,000 miles or so. My 1990 Geo Metro has consumed oil at a quart in 4,000 miles for the entire 19 years and 244,000 miles I've driven it (and it had 58,000 miles on it when I bought it). The original converter is still on the car, and works just fine. I now pass emission tests with less pollution than when I first bought the car. At the rate that most people drive (12,000 miles per year) 32 ounces of oil in 3 months is 11 ounces per month. That works out to 3 ounces of oil consumed per week. And that is really a tiny amount; compared to all the other petroleum based crud that goes through the converter.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I stated that Toyota could possibly void the warranty. Why take a chance. A well engineered engine should not need any additional oil additives, especially with the high quality of oils today. It took Toyota a long, long time to own up to the oil sludge issue. They are not the most cooperative company in the world.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Kindly be advised that my Toyota Dealer sells and recommends BG products both for the oil and fuel. ------ That is the reason why I use them! ----- It is not my idea!---- As you probably know, the Toyota 3.0 V6 engine was a "known sludge producer." ---- The reason for this issue was extended oil and filter changes, and probably a design problem with the engine. ----- I have used these products since the 2007 V6 XLE Camry was new, and I have never had to add oil between oil and filter changes! ---- Maybe I am just lucky, or maybe there is something to these products. ----- Do a search on the net about BG Products, and make your own decision! ---- The final choice is yours! ----- I do not work for the company! ----- Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    You don't drive far enough between oil changes to know if a car uses oil or not. The oil and the additives that you add are just getting nicely circulated at 2500 miles.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Thanks for your reply; it's a relief. One less thing to worry about!
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning bdyment:

    While everyone is entitled to their opinion, I would have to disagree with you about your reasoning on this oil burning issue. ------ If the cause of the oil burning is "frozen piston rings," (because of a carbon build up in the piston grooves), the engine will burn oil at 1,000 or 5,000 miles after the oil & filter change, since the cause of the oil burning IS NOT a break down of the oil, but rather the inability of the rings to follow the cylinder walls as the piston travels from TDC to BDC, thus allowing "blow by" to enter the crankcase. ---- The rings are locked in the piston grooves because of the carbon formed by the burning of the gasoline. ----- Using a top tier gasoline, and changing the brand of gasoline on a regular basis can work to eliminate these problems, because each brand of fuel uses different detergents in their fuel, which tend to break up these formations. ------ Chevron is one of the best fuels to use because of their additive package. ----- Some dealers have recognized the need for an extra additive, both in the fuel and in the engine oil to control this formation. ---- (Both my Toyota and my Chevrolet dealer sell & recommend the BG products for this purpose.) ----- Yes, it makes an extra profit for the dealership, but if these products are doing the job, than the cost justifies their use! ------ (Saturn Vehicles are noted for this oil burning problem, and the solution to the problem is to soak the pistons with an "penetrating oil chemical" through the spark plug hole overnight to free the rings.) ----- Yes, carbon formation can cause oil burning by increasing crankcase pressure and allowing the PCV system to draw wet oil fumes into the combustion chamber. --------- Best regards. ------------ Dwayne. :shades: ;)
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Well stated Dwayne, but I still think you are overly cautious regarding the frequency of your oil changes. Top quality oil, plus BG, plus a good quality Chevron gasoline should allow you to drive far more than 2500 miles between changes. I believe you are on the road a fair amount--highway driving. What time frame usually amounts to 2500 miles?

    You are certainly not hurting your cars by frequent oil changes, but you are spending far more than you need for service. Just my opinion.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Depending on my schedule, I can do 2,500 miles between 6, 8, or 10 weeks! (Remember I am using two vehicles a 2007 Camry and a 2010 Malibu) ---- When I have the vehicle serviced I have them run a complete check on the vehicle. ---- At 5,000 mile intervals, I have the tires rotated, and the brakes checked. My car is my office, and it needs to be 100% at all times! I would rather "over maintain" a vehicle, ------ than be stranded on the road! My time is money! ------ The BG Products go back to the 70's. -------- Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • tribibiantribibian Member Posts: 3
    Re: 2007 Toyota Solara SLE Convertible

    We purchased my wife's Solara convertible new in 2007 and have maintained it to factory specs. With just about 30K on the odometer, I had intended to have the Dealership begin servicing the cooling system and transmission using the BG product and shop procedures, followed up with similar servicing for the power brake and steering systems.

    While speaking with the Service Manager to schedule this work, I was advised that "Toyota no longer recommends the use of BG additives in their vehicles......." After hearing this, I was both suspicious and concerned, as our Owner's Manual clearly indicates having the vehicle serviced at specific mileage intervals using BG products. FYI....our local Goodyear Dealer continues to offer this service, using professional BG equipment and trained technicians to operate it, all of which I have witnessed.

    Question: I would appreciate reading responses from any other members who can share additional information on this topic.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning bdyment:

    Maintaining a vehicle is a very interesting process. ----- On one side, the manufacturer recommends what they consider to be an acceptable level of service, but in the real world, vehicles are used in many different styles, and under a different set of circumstances. ----- Throughout the automotive industry, we see a rash of engine oil sludge problems in a variety of name plates, and we see engines burning oil as they accumulate mileage. ----- Many times the owner of the vehicle has maintained the vehicle according to factory specifications, and in some nameplates, a battle then begins between the customer who wants the manufacturer to honor an extended warranty, and a manufacturer who wants to VOID the warranty claim because of the number of units out in the marketplace with the problem of the potential for the problem. ------- My two vehicles, (2007 V6 Camry & 2010 4 cylinder Malibu), recommend service intervals of 5,000 miles. If I adhere to these figures and my engine develops a problem, will Chevrolet or Toyota say the my driving habits are VERY STRESSFUL, and I should have serviced the vehicle sooner, therefore we are not going to honor your extended warranty. ------ (You might think that this has not happened in the automotive marketplace, but if you take the time to do the research on the net, you will see one or more of the automotive nameplates have taken that very position with their customers who have serviced their vehicles at the dealer. ----- (These customers cannot afford to repair their own vehicle, so as such, they cannot afford to take the manufacturer to court!) --- I have chosen to divided the "recommended service intervals" in half, and have all of the serviced performed at the selling dealer. Should I experience a problem there is no way that the dealer, or the vehicle manufacturer can claim that I did not service my vehicle under the terms and conditions of the owner's manual, and / or the requirements of the extended warranty. (EXAMPLE: ---- If I was to experience a "sludge condition" on one of my vehicles at 2,500 mile service, when the recommended service was 5,000 miles, and all of my service was done at the dealer, the manufacturer would have to replace the engine under the terms and conditions of the extended warranty.) By giving my vehicle this level of service, I am insuring that my vehicle will run at the most efficient level throughout its life, and I am protecting my warranty interests. ----- The alcohol in the gasoline today is putting added stress on the engines. (Alcohol is a cleaner, not a lubricant.) ----- The combustion chamber is a "hot / dry place!" ---- Valves, pistons and valve seats are operating under very negative conditions. Maintenance and fuel additives do have a place in the daily operating process. Not all additives are equal, and not all additives do the job. A dealer will not sell an additive to a customer that will destroy the vehicle. That is simply not good business. In the marine business we use additives in the fuel, because marine engines work very hard. A boat going down a river at 28mph has an engine that is doing 3,200 rpm. (Show me land based vehicle that has an engine that is doing 3,200rpm at 55mph!) ------- Best regards. ---------- Dwayne
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..our local Goodyear dealer..."

    Sorry :sick: , but that statement goes toward discrediting anything you might have to say.
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