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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Hi I took my car in for the latest recalls and the dealer told me that they re flashed the computer.
    I have had trans issues since I owned the car. They replaced the valve body once then the trans. did other re flashes to correct the rpm flares which led to a compromise in my MPG.
    Long story short after this last recall fix I got my car back and it ran better than it ever has, Trans shifted as smooth as ever. Gas mileage was way up. It was short lived though. After 1 week of enjoying what felt like a perfect trans it started shifting back to it's old ways. It also seems to go bad after it rained. Not sure if that has something to do with it?
    The dealership has always said they can't find anything wrong with my car. Which I feel they are protecting themselves against the lemon law.
    Does anyone know what is going on with this car?
    Sometimes the car goes into severe slow down mode which the dealer would call engine braking. I don't buy that because it happens at different times and when the car was running great it never did this so called engine braking.
    I need help and a fix. Thanks
  • stepside73stepside73 Member Posts: 3
    Ask the dealer if they performed the software flash as described in a TSB for reprogramming trans after engine [email protected] there is yet another TSB for trans shifting programing. GL
  • stepside73stepside73 Member Posts: 3
    Ask the dealer if they performed the software flash as described in a TSB for reprogramming trans after engine [email protected] there is yet anouther TSB for trans shifting programing. GL
  • froggi911froggi911 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 07 Camry XLE with a V6 - I have less that 70K miles on it and it is currently in the shop for the second time with the same Cam Gear issue. 8 months ago they had to replace it and it is sending all of the same signals that it had been previously so I suspect that another replacement is in my poor Camrys future. Has anyone else had this problem? I haven't seen it included in any of the recalls and am wondering if I just got a car that after 55K miles decided to have a recurring issue or if there are others having the same problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited April 2010
    Is the problem the small electrical sensor, or the cam gear itself?
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Can you please explain the cam gear issue. I have a 2007 v-6 camry also with many shifting issues. After the recent recall was done on my car which they told me they also re flashed the computer my car ran great for about 10 days and then reverted back to it's old ways. I'm having trouble getting the dealership to find a fix or even admit I have a problem with my car. Any help would be grateful, thanks
  • perkan1perkan1 Member Posts: 2
    This is an update:
    Service manager offered to replace the transmission (from the same car as engine) and to split the cost of labor and part, which I accapted because I did not have (better) choice. I am still under impression that I was played somehow.
    I am not going back for service there.

    Perkan
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    why not take it to another Toyota dealer?
  • icyman6969icyman6969 Member Posts: 7
    Replaced factory tires after 33,000 miles to another V rated tire (same rating as it came with). I got Sumitomo HTR's they were very inexpensive. They were balanced and I was on my way, I noticed right away hard pulling to the right to the point where I had to hold wheel at 10-11 o'clock to keep car straight. I went back to tire store and paid for an alignment, the only thing was toe was out a little, still pulling, they rotated tires, still pulling and at 70-85 mph, the car shimmies and shakes. Went back today and bought a little better tire Dunlop V rated and re-checked alignment, It is still pulling right, just not quite as bad? Never been in an accident, hit a curb or anything.

    Also, last time had brakes checked still lots of life left, but going down a steep hill at freeway speeds when depressing brakes, steering wheel shakes a lot, when release brakes it stops.

    Lastly, it seems within the last 2k miles or so, upon heavy acceleration, the car does not shift as smoothly?

    Car still under warranty, so anything I can ask dealer to check?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited May 2010
    Well the shimmy under braking, is most likely heat warped front rotors.

    Do you get a vibration at 55-60 mph range, that's the speed that you'll typically feel a tire that is out of weight balance will start to show?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    There are about five recalls which you have probably been notified about, concerning the floor mats and possible unintended acceleration. Have the dealership make whatever changes have not already been done in that area.

    When you go to the dealer; also tell then to look up and apply the following five different TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) which Toyota has issued for this car; all of which pertain to the steering, vibration, and shift problems:

    TSB-0106-08 (NHTSA # 10025856) (June 2008) Front suspension flutter; Body vibration at highway speed.

    TSB-0061-08 (NHTSA # 10025103) (May 2008) Automatic transaxle torque converter shudder.

    TSB # 03607 (NHTSA # 10022763) (August 2007) ECM calibration enhancement to shifting performance and smoothness.

    TSB # 00207 (NHTSA # 10022143) (April 2007) Techstream ECU flash reprogramming procedure.

    TSB # 00207 (NHTSA # 10220993) (January 2007) 3rd-4th gear shift flare.

    Also report the concerns you have posted here, and make sure the dealership has a written record of each one them (as shown on the service invoice they give you).
  • icyman6969icyman6969 Member Posts: 7
    out of weight? balance? they have balanced and put two sets of tires, wouldn't they of caught that?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What I'm trying to verify, is that you don't get a vibration at lower 55-60 highway speeds. That is speed that I've found that vibrations from out of tire balance situations become noticeable. Your vibration appears to be showing at a higher 70-85, so that and your prior balance jobs would kind of suggest that it's not a weight balance problem. My 07 is still silky smooth up through those speeds, about 1/3 way through the second set of Michelins with our total mileage.

    With the braking wobbling (most likely a warped rotor), sounds like your vehicle might be driven a little on the hard side. You may also have some suspension parts with wear, contributing to the pull to the right. How's your CV joints, are you getting any creaking or jerkiness with tight steering wheel turns while starting off from stop sign?
  • icyman6969icyman6969 Member Posts: 7
    SAGA CONTINUES-

    went to dealer today, most problems solved, but car pulling to right and some vibration not fixed, they inspected whole front end and all parts underneath, checked balancing, etc. Their Alignment machine is down for repairs for 3-5 days, so actually sent it next door to tire place where I just got it aligned and tires, now they are saying it is the Camber that is out. The manager of tire shop had left for day, and they told me that the tire shop only does alignment to make sure tires do not wear, but have now way of fixing Camber problem. Toyota says to bring it back late next week to test on their alignment machine and then see if need to put in bigger bolt in Camber to fix (they have not determined if they are going to charge me or not.

    Here are my questions-

    I bought Sumitomo tires from this tire shop 3 weeks ago, and car started to pull, called them and they said to bring it for alignment, paid and had it aligned, got paper print out, but did not really pay attention to it, they say toe was out and now good, drove it again and pulling right, they said sometimes tires need 500-1000 miles to wear in, so did that. Still pulling, called again, blamed cheap tires I chose and told me to come in and switch to Dunlops that they have experience with, did that change and cost me $100 more. Now I learn this, and they blamed cheap tires. What should I do? nothing wrong with those Sumitomos I bought originally and now a Camber problem that tire shop can't fix and have to go through Toyota. I have probably spent 3 whole days on this problem.

    What would you do? feel like tire shops owes me some $.
  • icyman6969icyman6969 Member Posts: 7
    SAGA CONTINUES-

    went to dealer today, most problems solved, but car pulling to right and some vibration not fixed, they inspected whole front end and all parts underneath, checked balancing, etc. Their Alignment machine is down for repairs for 3-5 days, so actually sent it next door to tire place where I just got it aligned and tires, now they are saying it is the Camber that is out. The manager of tire shop had left for day, and they told me that the tire shop only does alignment to make sure tires do not wear, but have now way of fixing Camber problem. Toyota says to bring it back late next week to test on their alignment machine and then see if need to put in bigger bolt in Camber to fix (they have not determined if they are going to charge me or not.

    Here are my questions-

    I bought Sumitomo tires from this tire shop 3 weeks ago, and car started to pull, called them and they said to bring it for alignment, paid and had it aligned, got paper print out, but did not really pay attention to it, they say toe was out and now good, drove it again and pulling right, they said sometimes tires need 500-1000 miles to wear in, so did that. Still pulling, called again, blamed cheap tires I chose and told me to come in and switch to Dunlops that they have experience with, did that change and cost me $100 more. Now I learn this, and they blamed cheap tires. What should I do? nothing wrong with those Sumitomos I bought originally and now a Camber problem that tire shop can't fix and have to go through Toyota. I have probably spent 3 whole days on this problem.

    What would you do? feel like tire shops owes me some $.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited May 2010
    WHO do you think owes you HOW MUCH money, and specifically for WHAT reason?
  • modivomodivo Member Posts: 5
    Hi All,

    Our 2007 Camry SE transmission hard shifts when cruising at 38-40mph & has done this since we bought the car. The tachometer drops below 1000rpms quickly and it feels like the car is braking itself. Dealership has not found a problem so far...

    Now the transmission is hesitant when accelerating, especially when getting on the freeway. It seems as though the tranny is slipping. I'm awaiting word from the dealership now.

    I also noticed the car was very loud when on the freeway & was considering adding insulation, but the dealer said the wheel bearings are bad.

    Since we bought the car- The alternator and brake systems have been replaced in addition to the recall problems,transmission & wheel bearings. Fortunately all has been under warranty, but I'm already worried for what will happen when the warranty runs out..

    Brakes:The car was shuddering when braking at freeway speeds.

    Alternator: The car lost all power while I was driving. There weren't any warning signs prior to losing power. I was fortunate to be able to get off the road and not cause an accident.

    The car has 30,000 miles on it, which doesn't seem like very much to be having all these problems already. It doesn't even get driven on a daily basis & has had more breakdowns than my husband's '84 Celica during this timeline.

    Is anybody else having these issues too or any advice other than regular maintenance to keep this car running soundly in the future?
  • calleancallean Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I had a transmission issue and to resolve it the transmission was ultimately replaced. I called Toyota at 800-331-4331, 0 to open a case. Tell them how scary the issue is. This gives the dealership more repair options and accelerates the case.

    You can purchase an extended warranty anytime before it expires. I'm considering doing that. Meanwhile address things right away and don't let them slide too long with the transmission.

    Good Luck!
  • oawaapoawaap Member Posts: 1
    I have a 4 cylinder Camry LE with excessive oil consumption and 101K on it. The only thing I can do is switch to a heavier oil (10w30) in summer and back to 5w20 in winter to slow down the oil burning. The real way to deal with this is to get a wet/dry compression test to see where the motor is at. My old camry went 300K before I had any real problems.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    my car had same problem. don't go anywhere without checking oil first. this car was recalled for this problem and Toyota's famous rubber oil line. good luck
  • drjay2drjay2 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Zaken1,

    I thought dealers wouldn't apply TSBs unless they replicated the problem. I've gone to two dealerships and both ignored the TSBs I printed out.

    I showed them the rear stabilizer bushing squeak TSB and they wouldn't look at it. It's not easy to replicate the squeak if there aren't any speed bumps near the dealership.
  • olt1892olt1892 Member Posts: 12
    My 2007 LE V6 with Bluetooth and Sterring Wheel audio control yesterday had a very bad problem.
    I was playing a CD (Bluetooth was OFF), suddenly, the volume will go up and down by itself. I did not touch anything before this happened all by itself.
    After a minute or so, the it will happen again. Eventually, I had to turn off the CD player.

    Anyone experienced the same? Is this a known issue?
    Thanks.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    This is an issue which would be best addressed by the regional Toyota Customer Service Center. If Toyota does indeed have a policy of requiring problems to be replicated before they applied TSBs; it would be their responsibility to devise a method of testing or replicating all reported problems; rather than ignoring problems which are inconvenient to replicate. The purpose of such a policy would be to prevent wasteful or inappropriate application of TSBs; not to get out of taking responsibility for product defects. That is why a constructive dialogue with Customer Service is important here. Why would Toyota publish TSBs, if they knew that any dealers who couldn't easily replicate the problem would just ignore it??? IF THAT IS WHAT IS GOING ON; TOYOTA MANAGEMENT NEEDS TO KNOW ABOUT IT; AND THE PUBLIC NEEDS TO BE INFORMED ABOUT WHAT TOYOTA IS DOING ABOUT THIS DISCREPANCY.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi all:

    I have been very busy, so as such, I have not posted on this board in a long time. ---- I still own the 2007 V6 Camry XLE, and it has about 58,000 miles. About one month ago, I had an "up-date" done by the dealer, with regards to the "self-acceleration issue." ------ I never had any problems with this vehicle to date. ----- Last month, I purchased a new 2010 Chevrolet Malibu LTZ with a four cylinder engine. The Camry is now my "back-up" vehicle.

    Best regards.
    Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi All:

    I have a service question. ----- The question involves the replacement of the timing belt on a 2007 V6 XLE Camry at 90,000 miles.

    Recently I received a service notice from the selling dealer stating that the timing belt should be serviced on this vehicle on / or about 90,000 miles.

    QUESTIONS:

    Does the engine need to be removed from the vehicle to replace the timing belt? ------ (The reason why I ask this question is because to replace the water pump on a V6 Camry, the engine needs to be removed, because there is no room to work in the engine compartment. If this is the case, then the water pump should also be replaced at the same time as the timing belt service!)

    Recognizing that my vehicle is 3 years old, and it has 58,000 miles and three years left on the extended warranty, ----- "if" ----- I take this action at 90,000 miles it would only have 10,000 miles left on the extended warranty! ------ QUESTION: ---- would it be better to trade this vehicle at 80,000 miles and move on rather than do this service? ----- (I do not want to drive a vehicle without an extended warranty. There are to many electronics and / or components that could fail and cost a fortune to repair / replace.)

    Has anyone done this service? ----- if YES, what was the cost? ------ Did you also replace the water pump at the same time? ----- I need to make a "plan of action" because I could easily have 80,000 miles on this vehicle in one year.

    Best regards to all. ----------- Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • bob255bob255 Member Posts: 9
    My 2007 Camry 4cyl does not have a timing belt. I don't know if this pertains to all Camry's starting with the model year 2007 and later.Call Toyota!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The 2007 model year was the first for the Camry to have the new 3.5-liter V6 engine, which I thought has a timing chain, not a belt. What does your owner's manual say -- if there's a belt to be replaced, it will be mentioned as a maintenance item? (The Camry 4-cylinders have used timing chains since the 2002 model year.)
  • bob255bob255 Member Posts: 9
    My 2007 Toyota Camry does not mention a timing belt in the owners manual.. The dealer had an seminar for new owners. At the seminar I learned to change the anti-freeze at 60,000 miles or at 5 years. Change the spark plugs at 120,000 miles or ten years. Engine filter at 30,000 miles and the cabin air filter every 15,000 miles. Change the oil and filter every 4500 miles of driving. May I suggest you call Toyota at 1-800-331-4331.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi All:

    Kindly be advised that the 2007 V6 XLE Toyota Camry has a timing chain! ----- As long as you change the oil frequently, (every 3,000 miles), it will last 100,000 + miles.

    Best regards.
    Dwayne ---- :shades: ;):)
  • donewtoyotadonewtoyota Member Posts: 4
    Took my 2007 Camry SE (17,600 miles) to Toyota dealer service today.
    When going down a steep hill at freeway speeds and applying brakes, steering wheel shakes and car starts shuddering. Serviceman say probably rotors.
    I say "already?" Calls later and tells me a new, improved brake pad has been developed which he recommends replacing. I asked when "new, improved" pad was available? Answer: JUNE 2009. Why am I only hearing about it now that my warranty expired 4 months ago? It was on a technical bulletin but not a safety
    issue so they don't have to inform customers. Oh well, they don't tell us when it's a safety issue until xxxxxpeople die, right? $58. for pads on front; $175 labor;
    $58 pads on back $175 labor. This is my 6th and last Toyota.
    Please don't tell me to go to another dealer; 60 miles down steep hills.
    Just wanted to post this for others and the guy who had his rotors repaired 9 times. BEWARE.
    Leaving here now to go buy a new car. Any suggestions?????
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Not sure we have the whole story here.

    If the rotors were warped, and it sounds that way from the symptoms you describe, then replacing the brake pads doesn't address the warped rotors. So I'm guessing that the labor charge, includes them cutting the rotors.

    18K miles is not many miles to have to be replacing brakes. When you say 60 miles down steep hills, does that mean in you live in a very hilly area? That would explain the high pad usage.

    What's the reference to 9 rotor repairs?
  • donewtoyotadonewtoyota Member Posts: 4
    1. Picked up car and service report says: FOUND THE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS WERE WARPED. ALSO FOUND THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS WERE SUBJECT TO AN UPDATED BRAKE PAD TO REPAIR A BRAKE VIBRATION. REPLACED THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS. RESURFACED ALL 4 ROTORS. PAD KIT, DISC BRAK $132.37, PAD KIT DISK BRA $57.40,
    TOTAL PARTS $189.77, TOTAL LABOR & PARTS $543.16

    2. I do not live in a hilly area and seldom drive on the freeway (maybe 4 trips in 3 years where there were 1 or 2 "hills" per trip) i.e., to L.A. over Canejo Grade.

    3. Reference to 9 rotor repairs is on this message board posted by "hughesbst"
    Post #4737
  • jlt08jlt08 Member Posts: 1
    This just happened to me. The A/C Compressor just locked up on my 2007 Toyota Camry LE V6. I was told by the mechanic that the bolt that hold the A/C compressor in place broke into pieces. I bought the car brand new from a dealership 3 years and 9 months ago. I'm at 66,500 miles. This is a very expensive repair. Cost is $2,100 just for the part. Have you heard of this happening to anyone else? What course of action did you take?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    You need to investigate a little more to exactly what is wrong, and why it costs 2100 to repair. There are a couple different ways I could interpret what you wrote.

    1.) It might be that the compressor bearing froze, and the compressor is bad. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. Repair job is to buy a new compressor and mount it with a new bolt, recharge the system w/freon. If that is your scenario, 2100 seems high.

    2.) It might be that the compressor disintegrated internally, sending metal shavings thru out the AC system. Ohh by the way, a mounting bolt broke. They have to take the complete AC system apart and purge out all the lines, replace some additional parts in addition to the compressor that got damaged or clogged by the filings, refill the system and check for leaks. Could be in the range of 2100.

    3.) The compressor bearing went bad, and somehow the serpentine belt put soo much pressure on the compressor it broke the mounting bolt and mounting. The bulk of the charges are trying to figure out how to remount a new compressor on the engine.

    I'd suggest asking a lot more questions to understand what they are suggesting the repair will consist of. What parts are the planning to replace and why, what labor are they planning to do and why. Knowing that would arm you with the ability to go to another repair shop and have them look at it and give you an estimate. A second repair shop may think that their proposed repair is the same, but their parts costs and labor costs are different. Or, they may suggest a different set of tasks and parts replacements need to be done, and those come up to a different price.

    Compressor bearings can go bad in any make vehicle. Call an autoparts chain (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) to get an idea how much aftermarket parts are, as a reference point. I would expect dealer OEM parts to cost more, but sometimes you might find the price differential way out of whack. I haven't had to replace a compressor in a number of years, so I don't have current price reference point.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited July 2010
    The original equipment compressor brand and part (Nippondenso # 4710613) for your car year and model is available for $571.79 plus shipping from www.rockauto.com
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Nice website reference...thanks.

    But for the original poster, just to make sure comparing apples to apples, that is a remanufactured compressor, as compared to what (most likely) is a new compressor from Toyota (but you should get clarity and check).
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    I had exactly the same problem. Toyota issued a TSB for this (I do not recall the #). I bought my 07 camry LE 4cycl brand new and suffered with it for three years (major transmission problems, it was replaced but it did not fix the problems, vibrations at constant speed on highway, vibrations when I braked, burning oil (burning 1 liter for every 1000km), pulling left all the times, rattles on dashboard, poor painting (it was chipping and peeling off on the front and back bumpers). After having endless problems and countless time visits to the dealer I finally gave up and got rid of the car.

    Toyota does not inform their customers about the problems and TSBs. You have to diagnose it yourself and find out the TSB, then you take it to the dealer and try to convince them that you have the problem.

    GOOD LUCK !!
  • bcaobcao Member Posts: 1
    I've been having the exact problem with my Toyota Camry 2007 and its dealer told me to spend $300+ to replace pad and smooth rotor. Never had this problem with my other cars.
  • shilosonshiloson Member Posts: 3
    Hello house...

    I'm about to buy a used Toyota Camry 2007 SE (V6). I've been going through a lot of posts and comments about problems with the transmission, oil leakage etc... I just want to find out if all 2007 V6 SEs have this problem. If they do, I'll pass. But if not, is there a way to determine if the one i'm considering has this problem??? the VIN number is 4T1BK46K47U505038.

    One more thing, I paid for the CARFAX VIN report and up until now, there's no record of transmission problems, oil leakage, etc.

    The car was manufactured 04/17/2006.

    Please I need your advice so I can make a well informed decision.

    Thanx a mill in advance...
  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    If I were you I would stay away from 2007 to 2009 models. They have very major problems. I had 2007 Camry and had all kinds of major problems (transmission replaced but did not fix the problem, very bad vibrations on the highway over 40mph, pulling, burning oils, rattles, vibration with brakes .....). I took the car to the dealer countless times since the first day I bought it. After driving it for 3 years I said it was enough and sold it when it had only 14000k miles on it. If you really want to buy Camry, look for 2010 & 2011. They have fixed most of the problems on the recent models.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    If it was me, I'd stay away from all Toyota problems since it seems like they are now finally getting caught with their pants down for all the lies about the quality of their products. I don't think any model they have made in the past 10 years hasn't had at least one recall. Just has to make me wonder what else they are hiding and has all their problems really been solved. How can you trust a company like that who has lied through their teeth about nothing wrong with their products.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    And we have a 2007 that has been a fabulous vehicle.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Has anyone done this?
    What kind of fluid did you use?
    Did you buy an "autobleeder" so it could be a one-person job? If so, where did you buy it and how much did it cost?

    Thanks for any and all tips/tricks/advice.

    Michael
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    Yes, I did a brake job a couple months ago. Replaced rear pads, flushed and bled all four brakes.

    I have a one man bleeder which I typically use to pull a vacuum at each wheel. To be honest, I don't remember where I got it or how much it costs. MIght have been a Harbor Freight store, or some autoparts store. I'd guess maybe 15 or 20 bucks.

    I use that to do the major flushing of the fluid, but revert back to a 2 person 'pump and hold it' as the final bleed. I had one of my daughters just pump the brakes and hold it, then cracked the bleeder to be sure each caliper was bleed properly. Then move on and do the next wheel.

    Just be careful to never let the master cylinder run dry, or you'll probably need to take it to a dealership to have the anti-lock brake system energized and purged. I just use a quart of the standard autoparts store Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid (if I recall correctly). Look it up in the owners manual, it will tell you the Dot standard.

    I posted earlier the specifics, but I think it cost me something like $40 bucks for a set of pads and fluid.

    It's really a pretty simple replacement on the Toyota, compared to some other vehicle's I've owned before.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    :lemon: Would you buy an american car? Don't even think about Toyota after all the lies and deceit they have used against consumers. We have (I am sorry to say) a 2007 v6 and we almost blew engine due to the oil leak problem they had (but first denied). At least with an american car you know what you.re getting-JUNK.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid

    Dot 5 is now available and is backward compatible.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    You already own the junk, buy an american car and step up, even most mags and Consumers REports are rating them better than Toilet, I mean toyota. :blush:
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi
    I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 58,000+ miles. (It is my second vehicle.) ---- It has only be serviced by the selling dealer since new. ----- It has been trouble free. -- It gets 30+ mpg on long highway trips! ----- I have had NO transmission issues. --- I did have the flexible oil line replaced under the extended Toyota warranty. The hose did not break. ----- Some people are having issues with these vehicles by my XLE has been a great vehicle.

    Best regards!
    Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;):)
  • beantownbeantown Member Posts: 228
    edited August 2010
    2007 4 cylinder CE Camry - automatic tranny - 29,000 miles

    Check engine light went on first thing this morning out of the blue. Drove on it for a few miles, first gear fine, second gear was extremely sluggish. Car would get "stuck" at 2,000 rpms and approx 25 miles per hour in second.....would not accelerate (ironic for a camy) no matter if my foot was half way down the pedal or if I put it to the floor, for approximately 5-7 seconds. Then it would kick in and accelerate. Very odd.

    Took car to dealership this morning and they analyzed the code. Said it was a "knock sensor". They attempted to reset all codes, but it didn't work. They then said that, based on their experience, it was a mouse or something that started nesting in the engine and chewed up a wire or two. They'd have to remove the manifold to be sure and it would cost me about $500 because it wouldn't be covered under the powertrain warranty which obviously hasn't expired yet. They said that there was an outside shot that it was something car-related and not rodent-related, which could be covered, but really.....what are the chances of them ever admitting that. They're obviously going to say it was a mouse or something like that and I'd have no way to prove it wasn't.

    Does this sound legit both in terms of diagnosis and cost to repair? This is a car that gets driven every day, so I can't imagine anything really having time to hang out and nest in there.
  • barroncbarronc Member Posts: 44
    After reading your post I find it hard to believe a mouse would have crawled up into the engine compartment and chewed on a few wires. And as you mention the car gets driven daily so the chances a mouse would be on a hot engine is unlikely. This sounds more like a Toyota problem, in other words possibly a computer problem. I had the engine light come on when I owned a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE and it was computer related. The dealership fixed my car which was covered under it's warranty. I'd suggest trying another Toyota dealership and get a second opinion if I were you.
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