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Comments
I do like the avalon, but for some I feel the car is so big, so long, can't make up my mind if I want such a long car.
The 3.5lit engine is good, no doubt about it, there is always power whenever you need it.
No, I haven't done anything yet, I want to make up my mind first.
Just not sure if I'll be happy with the new RX.
Pete
However we could consider RX350 if it's $1,500 above invoice.
I would be surprised that a Lexus dealership salesrep would promise you a number that could not be approved by manager. Would it help if we have a group buy?
I am trying to buy a new 2010 RX350 in MA.
I got an offer from one dealer-shop.
RX350 with premium package, heating seat, back-up camera, woody steering wheel
MSRP : about 43,000
Offer : 40,000 including Tax, TTL and all
maybe 5,000 off from MSRP
Is it good deal for me ?
Thanks
are they for real? In this world of internet (and these folks use internet obviously) you would have to be as dead as a nail not to see 5k off sticker is a great deal--and since we have no way of verifying, not sure its true.
Before all fees what is the discount from MSRP to actual cost of vehicle excluding fees, tax etc?
Was a trade involved?
It was first dealer and first offer.
There was no trade-in or financial program (I`ll pay cash)
There was no price(MSRP) diffrence between dealer and Edmund.com (42,983),and actual cost (processing fee, advertisement fee, tax, registration, destination charge ...) was all included.
Is it good ?
If the actual car cost of the car is around $38k and your cost including all fees (Many dealers are charging $250, for documentation fee and tax in MA would be almost $2000) is $40000 that would be about a $5000 discount off the the MSRP which is great as many, according to earlier messages, are only getting about $1500 off MSRP.
What is the name of the dealer and please advise the cost of the vehicle before all fees/taxes.
Thanks
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Since I tend to deal with the same dealer on future purchases and service, I really do not want to go too far with the pricing. I have found that if you do not go all the way, later on in the relationship they take care of you in other ways--ie--have had nav updated "gratis" . Loaner cars are same or better than what I am driving, have actually had salesperson bring me his demo while taking mine in for service. And its always noce to have them go to bat for you if there is a warranty or out of warranty problem. You do not get that of you persist in getting THE lowest price, especially of you are dealing with a luxury car. The sales guys have to eat too
I have a BMW 335 HT convertible. I usually get the same as a loaner--if not--I get a 5 series.
you seem to be having problems with upper end dealers in general.
your problem-not theirs.
Whenever you go to a dealership never act or say anything that leads the salesperson to believe you are "married" to getting this particular model of car. It is always good to mention similar cars that you are also considering, even if you have already made your mind up.
If you get an offer on the car you want and are not pleased with the price, make a counter-offer that is based on the market conditions of that particular model. For instance, since the Lexus RX-350 is fairly popular you should offer about $1,000 more than the dealers cost. If they do not honor it---move on to either another dealer or another model.
For instance, If I can't get the deal I want on a RX-350, I'll let the Lexus dealer know I will see what the Audi dealer can do for me on a Q5, a Mercedes dealer on a GLK, or what an Acura dealer can do for me on a MDX. Sorry, I didn't mean to omit the new Volvo XC-60 :-)
In current market conditions you can get an MDX at or under Invoice price along with very good financing. Never forget that you are the one holding the wad of money that the dealership wants. It they can't make you happy, then leave.
Even if it is a lie, you can always tell the dealership that you will try both Costco's buying service or that you are even willing to go out of state to get your vehicle at (or near) the price you want.
In this economy, you never want to enter into a major purchase without feeling you got a very good deal, or else it will always leave a bitter taste in your mouth. Of course, if you are fortunately flush with cash, then you can do anything you want:-)
the whole lot. only offering a small discount from msrp.
thanks for any info!!!!
I have a BMW 335 HT convertible. I usually get the same as a loaner--if not--I get a 5 series.
you seem to be having problems with upper end dealers in general.
your problem-not theirs.
Yes, I do, be honest with you. Used to have a 330Ci coupe and always got a rental car. Paid cash got my M3/DCT last year and started to get 3 series loaners like 328i or 335i. Never had an M3 or M5 for a loaner. BMW stinks. Lexus is a bit better, always got a year old RX loaner when taking wife's RX in for service. hal56 are you working in sales? just curious. By the way, before the market crashed last Fall, people bought BMW always paid MSRP (if you go out of town, $1,000 off MSRP). They don't negotiate. You order the car you want and wait a couple of months for them to build. Also, no BMW owners call it 335 HT convertible, it's E93.
LOL, sounds reasonable. Then the car would be in service all the time and I would be driving a better rental car all the time....Yeah.
I'm in the market for a 2007 RX350 AWD w/NAV (certified pre-owned) the car has about 38K of mileage. The problem is that I've never purchased a used car before. I've only leased and am accustomed to the negotiation process and how much of a discount I can get from the stated lease prices on-line.
I've read many articles on buying a used car and just wanted a second opinion on my thoughts.
Using the True Market Value calculator on edmunds.com, it looks like the Dealer Retail Certified Used price is $31,642; trade in price is listed as $25,361. The dealer has the car listed for $32,495.
I think the price I should aim for is trade-in value + any work done to the car to recondition it + $1000 profit for the dealer + price of the warranty.
So for example, trade in value is $25,361, detailing price is $300, inspection $100, dealer profit $1,000, Certified Pre-Owned Warranty $1,500. This would equate to a total price of $28,261.
Is this a reasonable price to shoot for?
I don’t plan on putting any money down and don’t have a trade-in (as my current car is leased).
For what it is worth, I have very good credit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The 2007 RX350 first came out around March 2006 and Lexus offered extremely appealing lease rates (high residuals and low money factors) at the time. That's why I leased mine in June 2006. I would suspect there are going to be lots of 2007 RX's coming off lease (36 months have passed) in good condition with relatively low mileage (36K or less). Lexus should be aware of this so unless they negotiate hard they could be flooded with a ton of RX's. The buyout of my 2007 RX AWD with Nav (MSRP of about $45,800) is $27,484 and it is not worth that much as a trade-in, so I'll just return it to Lexus. Let the dealer know you are aware of the coming RX glut and start your offer very low (like 26K) and see where it goes from there.
doesn't that sound a lot like general motors. unperfected cars being shipped and then the factory destroying residual values to ship new cars.
when i heard about the wind noise problem in the rx, it seemed like deja vu all over again.
so i went to the Audi dealer, and leased a Q5 Prestige with all maintenance included, loaner cars with no rental fees, for $750/month 36/45k including Arizona sales tax. best decision i ever made.
i believe there is a reason that Toyota has fallen to below average in the JD POWER customer satisfaction survey, and i think there is a reason that Lexus has fallen to number 3.
i can tell you that the Bang and Olufsen stereo blows the doors off the 19 speaker Levinson system that was in the Ls460, the 3D map in the Navigation system is incredible and it doesn't feel like I'm trying to pass somebody on a curve with my living room couch any more.
they are at NJ.
You did great. I believe you basically purchased the car at invoice.
Now tell us-what is the secret to your successful negotiations! What was your approach?
Thanks
Description/Model code/Invoice/MSRP
2010 RX 350 FWD$31,832/$36,800
Comfort Package (CP) $1,699/$2,000
19" Wheels (FT) $528/$660
Navigation (NV) $2,052/$2,440
12 speaker audio (EK) $88/$110
Premium Package (PM) $2,028/$2.400
Cargo mat (C1) $55/$92
Cargo net (GN) $35/$59
Wheel locks (WU) $264/$330
Destination (not added for dealer at this point/$825
Total $38,533/$45,797
I did not say what I was willing to pay. Internet manager responded and said he would give me $2,000 off invoice. I then responded saying I would work up from dealer cost.
Then I used a spreadsheet found at carbuyerstips.com and sent this e-mail:
Factory Holdback ($737.33)
Floorplan Fee ($368)
Dealer cost $38,533-$737.33-$368=$37,427.67
Fair profit =(% whatever you think is fair-I used 10%) = 10% of $37,427.67 = $3,742.77
selling price = $37,427.67 + $3,742.77 = $41,170.44
plus $825 shipping + $525 advertising fee (Southeast Toyota) + $389 dealer prep = $42,909.44
He sent e-mail back and accepted-
I have also bought from this dealer before and in my second e-mail also added the total number of dollars spent in prior maintenance and new car purchase.
The deal was good for me and good for them. A couple of e-mails and finished. You may do better of course.
whey you said the internet manager responded the first time and said he would let you have $2000 off the invoice. did you mean MSRP instead of $2000 off invoice?