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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    For your blazer model honda (ha ha): If you have spark then check the cold start injector with an ohm meter - if they are out of spec that baby will never fire up cold (additional one just for cold starts). Look resistance value up - no honda book here.
  • :lemon: Got a 96 S10 Blazer 4.3 CPI. When stepping on the gas more than just a little bit the engine bogs and will die out and often pops threw the intake when it's doing this. It does this in park or under load. I bought a fuel pressure guage and at idle it's around 50. If I bring it up to a very fast idle it climbs to 55-60 PSI. Theres no engine light and no stored codes but the problem pursists. I can nurse it to highway speeds but at any steady speed it's surging. Filters been replaced but the old one was only a few months old. Also, it starts and idles perfectly. Truck has 176,000 miles on the original spark plugs. I wanted to pull the plugs but I can't even get my hand into where they are.... I'd love to meet the idiot that designed this thing...... Anyone have a cure to this sick truck ???? I can't afford dealer service rates ($100+) I also can't afford to throw parts at it until I hit the bad part...... :lemon:

  • 176k and you are complaining - that made me laugh!
    First things first is maintenance schedule and until that is up to date even the shop will insist on a few parts to eliminate reasons.
    1. Plugs, cap and rotor, plug wires, PCV (100k max miles) - most common reason for misfires, crossfires, bad running.
    2. Air and fuel filters (30k normal by conditions)

    After those there is the MAF sensor to spray clean, EGR possible carboned up, etc but do the above first. Plugs are easy to do thru the wheel well openings and only #3 has the steering shaft in the way and is a pain. Plug wires take awhile to snake around and don't pull hard on them and use dielectric grease in all ends and on drivers side watch order as its in cap 3-1-5 order (pass side is 2-4-6) and cap is marked - do not buy the cheapo stuff - if will fail - has on me and drives you crazy later. Cap has 2 torx screws holding on and you have to be careful and don't drop the screws in the dist! Rotor same thing.
    Hope that helps and good luck - 176k is great. How is the Coolant doing - 3 years should be changed and 4.3s are known to have leaking lower intake gaskets by 100k normally so watch the level - new thermostat and Stant cap with the flush change is recommended to keep it going - another forgotten thing till it has problems.
  • I have the same vehicle and had exactly the same problem. After changing damn near every filter, sensor and believe me I wish I didn't, here it was the fuel pump. Even though it gave good pressure at idle and when you reved the motor in park, when it came to any movement it failed.
    This isn't to say new plugs and wires won't help, but trust me on this, it's the fuel pump!
  • My guess is definately the plugs, wires and cap/rotor assembly. If you pull the front wheels off you should have no problem reaching the plugs except the #3. But it you jack up the engine a little with the floor jack it lifts it just enough to be able to get it over the stering column. Good luck.
  • I would get a voltmeter or better still a scope on the O2 signal output. If it's an old/original sensor and not been replaced for 100K + miles then it will definitely be slow and likely causing havock with your computer trying to keep the emissions tight. I had an heated oxygen sensor go on me and just before the heater finally gave up the ghost it would bog down when accelerating. The ECU finally worked out the sensor was out of spec and pulled it open loop and the engine was driveable again. A new 02 sensor fixed the problem and cleared the "check Wallet Light". On a scope you should see a clean sine wave type waveform, going 800mv or more peak and 150mv or lower in the trough. The rise time should be 100msec or better. Without a scope, as a test you could disconnect your 02 sensor and see if the engine runs better in the situations you encounter the problem most. This might cause a little hunting at idle but the engine should run fine with the sensor out and effectively forcing an open loop feedback for the ECU. I'm guessing your ECU isn't quite seeing your O2 sensor so keeps in closed loop but it's just too slow. So in sudden changes of load or acceleration it's still reading the signal but it's just to slow and inaccurate to react, so it's throwing the mixture way too rich and then lean. Good luck!
  • Hey Brian , I have the same problem you had .My 95 Blazer 4.3 W vin will start fine ,idles ok . When I try to drive it sputters and doesnt go over 2000rpm. Mine has 150k miles on it, the fuel pump is 4 months old ,the wires and plugs were done about 2 years did you fix yours?
  • In October I bought a 2001 Chevy Blazer LS from a used car lot locally. Shortly after I purchased the vehicle I stopped at convenience store and turned the truck off. Upon returning the truck would not start. It would turn over fine but not start. I waited about 10 minutes and it started again. Then a couple weeks later I drove the vehicle from New York to Virginia. Once at my time share in VA I turned the truck off and a few minutes later the same thing, it wouldn’t start. I called the dealership and was told to disconnect the battery let it sit for a few moments and retry as it was a notorious problem with the anti-theft system. I did so, however, it did not immediately start. After about 20 minutes of sitting it did start.

    Since October I have had no problems with the vehicle until December 18th. I went outside in the morning and attempted to start the truck and like before, it wouldn’t start. It turned over ok but would not ignite. After waiting still no joy. I had the vehicle towed to the dealerships garage and was told it was the fuel pump and would cost $425.00 to repair.

    My issue is when I bought the truck it had the 60 day warrantee. I informed the dealer of this problem during the warrantee and was told it was a notorious problem with the anti-theft system and not to worry just to let it sit and it would start again. I told them this was the same problem as before and was told it wasn’t the fuel pump before because fuel pumps just don’t stop working then start working again.

    I called a reputable Chevy dealership and was told the anti-theft system would not allow the truck to turn over and that furthermore it was possible for the fuel pump to malfunction and then begin functioning again.

    My questions are...
    1. Do you think it was indeed the fuel pump that was prohibiting the truck from starting?
    2. Is it indeed possible for the pump to malfunction and then begin functioning again?

    I am paying for the repairs however; I intend to file a complaint with the NYS Attorney General regarding my warrantee not covering the repairs. Any insight anyone could give would be appreciated.
  • My starter went bad, when i was removing it i saw that it was only being held by one bolt instead of two. When i took it outi was able to see that the other bolt had been broken. I tried drilling out and jut made the whole thing worst. I piece from where the bolt is broke off, then i decided to drill a whole all the way to the other side to try holding it thighter, but now nothing works, what can i do!!!??? HELP PLEASE!!!
  • jtheifjtheif Posts: 4
    I having problems starting my truck in the cold it only happens when it gets cold. If I start it by crossing the starter it will start up (like touch the positive on the negitve nuts on the start it will start right up)other then that once i get it started and go some wherethen park shut off i have a problem restarting it it take several turns of the ignition before it starts back up. the starter i have is brand new maybe 2 months old the starter will click when the key is turned but the flywheel does not move till i cross the starter if anyone has any ideas it would be helpful
    Thanx Frustated Auto Guy
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    When you turn the key to the spring loaded start position is 12v getting to the starter solenoid from the ign wire (samll one)? I've seen that nut get loose cause a pain to tighten up there.
  • jtheifjtheif Posts: 4
    i am going to try this when it get warm up here it is snowintoday so i will post the results in about 3 days thanks for the suggestion
    Thanks Frustrated Car Guy :shades:
  • This 01 Blazer has a 4.3 ltr V-6, 150000 miles.
    It had been running just fine when one day I tried to start the vehicle and all it did was
    turn over and over. I put some fuel down the throttle body and it started and ran momentarily.
    I waited about a half hour and just for the hell of it I tried to start and vehicle again and it
    started and ran for two months without another incident.

    Once again 2 months later the same problem occurred and this time I took it to a dealer
    and they replaced the mass air flow sensor, fuel filter and fuel pump. Vehicle ran fine
    for 1 month but Friday, every time I stopped at a stop sign or tried to slow down to make
    a turn, the engine would stall. I would crank it over and over and it would start again
    but as I tried to get it back to the dealer the engine was starting harder each time
    ( meaning it would turn over and over more before it would start).

    About 6 miles from the dealer, the engine stalled and would not start again. After about
    20 minutes went by for some reason it fired up and has been running fine ever since.

    The dealer put their Tech 2 code reader on it and there was a code shown something about
    a loss of communication from the BCM but it had rechecked and passed sometime during the
    last 20 miles of driving. I have no service engine light on at the present time.
    Is my computer going bad?
    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Perhaps its the security system called Passlock that cuts fuel thinking someone is stealing it. BCM controlled and GM has the bulletin on the failure modes - usually a bad connector from the main wiring in the column. Does the security light come on when this happens - if so thats it. When it will not start does the security light stay on (should go out after apprx 5 sec when you turn to run).
  • Ever since we purchased this vehicle, the security light has been intermitent. It comes
    on and goes off at will, usually when we are
    driving down the road. Would this connector cause the vehicle to stall when slowing down or stopping?
  • If so what connecter am I looking for?
    Is this a part I can purchase somewhere
    or do I need to pull one from a junker?
  • Hello. I have an '01 Chevy Blazer and recently it has started having trouble firing up. It will crank over and take probably 10-20 tries before it starts up. ONce started, it runs fine. Put in the guage, and just sitting, fuel pressure dropped from 48 to 10 within two hours, so.. We did a tune up, replaced the fuel filter before deciding on the fuel pump. We put a brand new fuel pump in yesterday and now it is still having the exact same problem. Battery is brand new, too. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 2000 Blazer that will not start. A couple of weeks ago on our way home, it just quit on us. It spit and sputtered once or twice and then just quit, like it was out of gas. We got it home, replaced the coil, had the module checked that is on the same bracket as the coil (it's fine), and checked the fuel pressure, which tested at 60psi with the key on, engine off. Can anyone tell me what I should check next? It turns over, but will not start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Cap and rotor first to rule it out and get a Delco - had a few problems with aftermarket ones lately. That module is the ignition module (older blazers its in the distributor). Then next piece would be the crank sensor under the front of the engine right behind the harmonic balancer that tells the PCM where to fire the plugs (timing) and also get a Delco or Standard motor part. All fuses were checked of course.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Any codes or SES light on? Fuel pressure should be min 60psi key on engine off - is it now? All fuses OK like ECM bat and ECM ign? Then cap and rotor if pressure OK cause maybe electrical. Then test the coil, and then the crank sensor.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Should be setting body code DTC B2960 and is for 98-01 blazers. Look up GM bulletin 01-08-56-001A and its 5 pages long so detailed - Passlock is getting incorrect sensor voltage to the BCM (body control module). Could be broken wire, connector, bad terminal, insulation rubbed thru, etc. Main wiring from column to all so it could be anywhere almost so suggest a GM dealer - they have done these and few others have. Sorry.
  • After checking the usual steps for ignition spark when cranking, if there is a spark then I would be suspicious of water in your gas tank. With the stupid problem of GMC fuel pumps burning out with low levels in the gas tank so ownes filling up with at least 1/4 tank all the time, these GMC trucks/cars are susceptible to water content build up in the tank causing spluttering and non starts when cold. Water is heavier than gas so lies at bottom of tank feeding the engine first and never mixing with gas. Remedy is to run tank to safe low limit and add water dissolver solution at next full fill up. Do this once a year in the winter when condensation/water build up is more likely. This is more common in colder & humid climates.
  • Just wanted to thank repairdog for the advice on the no start condition on the 2000 blazer. It turned out to be the cap and rotor causing the problem. Everything is fixed, and working fine! Thanks again! :)
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Great! Glad you got it. Finding more and more aftermarket parts for the Blazers are not up to par and failing very fast so Delco ones are best or many are made by Standard Motors Corp so they have been holding up.
  • I just bought a used 2000 Blazer TODAY ... and, it's sitting in a parking lot right now. My son, a very new driver, went to get the car while we were paying the bill at a restaurant ... and, the next thing I know, the SECURITY light is flashing and the car won't start.

    The owner's manual led me to the Passlock section ...
    I followed the instructions ... waited 10 minutes ... tried again ... but, no luck.

    Any suggestions?

    David in Detroit ([email protected])
  • Awesome. We left the vehicle in the parking lot overnight and we're going to see what we can do today. Thanks VERY MUCH for your help. David in Detroit
  • The vehicle needed a jump start and there were no problems with the flashing SECURITY lights after it sat for 24 hours. Many thanks to everyone for the help.

    Any opinions about dealer service vs. a good repair shop?
  • Ok, my truck seems to stall out for no reason. There is fuel and spark. When it stalls i lose all power. no power steering, brakes, stereo, dash, and all power everywhere. i think it has something to do with the ground because when this happens all i have to do is, pop the hood and shake the battery a touch. everything will turn back on and it will start right up. i am not sure what else i am supposed to check to fix this. i have checked the battery terminals and followed the cables to the grounds. they are all secure. Can i get some better ideas???
  • Check the cables with a meter and shake them as someone watches - bad cable, terminal block, connector, or a battery or alternator problem - get them tested at most auto stores free. Also look at teh starter cables and solenoid connections for bad or loose wire.
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