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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • rcjr84rcjr84 Posts: 1
    Ok so its been raining for the past 24 hours and while out shopping today my blazer decided to not want to start. heres whats going on:

    Lights come on, battery cables are fine. When trying to turn the key i get one pinging click and then thats it. I just had the fuel pump replaced on this 5 months ago and the starter was replaced just over a year ago. I checked all the fuses for the starter, ignition, and even the engine as well as checked all my plugs to ensure everything was connected good. the noise is coming for the lower left hand corner of the engine bay.

    If any one has any ideas on what i can check or how I can get it to start that would be great as its stuck as the grocery store 15 miles from my house and I would love to at least get it to my local machines shop so he can fix is Monday.

    Thanks
    :sick: Rob
  • dlbkingdlbking Posts: 2
    I have the same problem and still to this day. What is causing your BIZ to jerk is the heat control sensor indicator located in the transmission. A very expensive sensor. You see when you have the AC on, the blazer motor is running much hotter than before. The radiator cannot cool the motor and transmission down ( the radiator cannot carry the load). To me this is a missed calculation on GM part. The transmission cannot cool down fast enough and the fluid breaks down causing it to be very thin. The sensor which control the modulator (it is slipping) in transmission is causing the kicks. My transmission technician advise me that I will need to get a new transmission. I said no but just to change the transmission fluid to a new batch. The new fresh fluid does not break down so easy to heat and fixed the problem. It cost me $60 to flush the transmission fluid. I now change my fluid ever 15k miles. Also, when you first experience the first kick, cut off the AC and allow the engine to cool to it normal reading. You can continue to drive though. It will take at least 30 to 45 minutes to cool down but it will cool down. Notice how high the temperature gauge is reading when it is 90 degrees outside and you have your AC on verses when you do not. Good luck!
  • dlbkingdlbking Posts: 2
    Help me to trouble shoot this problem again. I smell strong fumes but cannot not locate where it might be coming from. I have checked everything ( all lines and fuel pump assembly area. There is no signs of a leak. All lines are connected. However I do see something that is located under the left side of the rear bumper and realm. It is a black box with fuel lines running to it. I cannot find out what this box is for. I am thinking it is some type of an accumulator box that might hold the fumes that is collected from the fuel accumulating somewhere from the tank or lines. My MPG is going down. I use to get at less 315 miles between fill ups. Now, I am only getting 230 miles per tank fills. I have done a complete tune up and fuel injector job without any results in saving fuel. Please help me figure out what the problem may be.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The canister you see is the charcoal gas fumes canister. In older GM models, it was a round canister behind the left headlamp assembly. On the S series Blazers it is where you found it, drivers side rear bumper area.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    dlbking,

    I don't know who your transmission guy is, but you better get a second opinion. The cooling system in a Blazer is more than adequate for the engine and auto tranny, even here in central Texas. I have two Blazers, and can run both in 100+ temps with the A/C on and towing a trailer and the temp guage never goes above 195, which is where the thermostat is set.

    And I can find no information on a "heat control sensor" in the 4L60E transmission. Now, you can get weird issues if you overheat the tranny by letting your coolant get low, or otherwise obstruct the radiator as the transmission cooling lines go through the radiator. But I have never heard of a temp sensor in the tranny, nor can I find anything about it in my manuals.

    Typically, stumbling and jerking with additional load (a/c, towing, hills) come down to the basics of ignition and fuel delivery, and usually ignition. The 4.3L has a bad habit of the coil to distributor wire arcing against a metal bracket between the two. Depending on the mileage (>50K) I will check for burned rotor and cap, and also look for arc marks on the wires.

    While there are certainly other things that can cause stumbling, a bad wire, rotor, or cap will not set a fault code until they get really bad. So these are the places I start with.

    Jim
  • tthiemetthieme Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have a 97 Blazer , 4.3 vortec. The car run fine yesterday, but this morning nothing. It will turn over but it wont start. We had lot of rain last few days, but I dont know if this will have anything to do with it.The car run allways fine, even it sat for 2 weeks she started right away. Any info will be appreciated.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Turn the key to "on" without cranking. Do you hear the fuel pump priming up? If not (and don't laugh, this works often) go kick the bottom of the fuel tank, hard. Then see if it starts. If it does, you have a bad fuel pump. You should be able to hear the pump prime up when the key is turned to on.
  • Go to message #133, #145, & #146 of this discussion! ;) It sounds very similar to how my issue started! My truck is still goin' strong!! :shades: (So far...knock on wood!!)

    Good luck!

    Lori
  • tthiemetthieme Posts: 2
    I checked and the fuel pump seems to be working, put the obd2 reader on the blazer and nothing shows up either.I had the blazer in the shop and the replaced the wires but not the cap, could that have anything to do with it? After i put the gasline antifreeze in it Friday morning , i waited a few hours , then Friday Afternoon she started,so i took it for a spin around the block,then when hubby came home he tried and she started up right away. But the next day nothing again, and yesterday the same. It has been raining quite a bit here, so i am thinking the moisture has something to do with it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    If changing the wires, I would change the cap and rotor. Generally speaking, a rotor and cap will deteriorate faster than the wires because the arcing between the contacts will slowly erode the material.

    You might try starting the truck, and while running mist the cap with water (mist, not drown! ;) ) and if nothing misfires, lightly mist other areas of the engine to see if something hiccups. Then make note of where you were misting when the misfire occured.

    If it didn't come with the wires, get a small tube of dialectric grease and use it where the wires plug onto the cap and plugs. Not only does it give you a water tight seal, it makes it easier to get the wires off the plugs for a tune up.
  • jaymc75jaymc75 Posts: 2
    My push button 4x4 just stopped working. I checked the fuse in the dash is there another one or some other problem I should know about? It just acts like there is nothing behind the button, it did work a week ago.?????
  • Howdy,

    I need some help really bad!!!!!
    My 2001 Chevy Blazer runs like a champ and can go hundreds of miles when it is cold outside! When it heats up I find that I can go down the higway for miles and it runs just fine but when I come to a stop sign or stop light when it is hot and has been running for a while it will just die I then put it in park and it runs again until I have to stop! I just took it in and they cant find any problems of course, I have a appointment on Saturday for a dealership to look at it but just to take it in it will cost me $110 for them to diagnois and I just lost my job so money is really tight! I am begging for an answer! Thanks
  • mdforemdfore Posts: 1
    I have a 4 door 2002 Chevy Blazer. Last summer I started having problems with the vehicle running hot and shutting off when I would be at a stoplight or stopsign. Shortly after, it began to run hot and shut off while I was driving, over and over and over! It will start back up everytime though. I also have a lot of brown sludge in my radiator, which has been flushed out many times, but it keeps coming back. I got a new radiator cap by suggestion of the man changing my oil, and it seemed to help. However, it wasn't that hot outside until now. Just last week it shut off at a stop light again, and continued to do so my entre way home, except for now it doesn't run hot at all! I'm not sure if the brown sludge and radiator cap are related to this at all. I have no idea what is wrong with my truck!! :mad:
    It will be paid off in 4 months, and I don't want a new car loan...please help if you have any ideas!
  • tchill93tchill93 Posts: 2
    It turns over just fine and then instantly acts as if I have my foot on the gas pressed to the floor and then peters out and dies. No choking or sputtering, just fades quickly to nothing. From turning the key to dying it takes about 3 seconds. The fuel pump was replaced a year ago. This truck sits a lot as it is my second vehicle. My uncle mentioned a valve that gets stuck if it is not used frequently...? (I don't know if it matters that I'm in Minnesota)
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    FUEL FILTER:
    Replace the in-line fuel filter if you have not already recently done so. The in-line fuel filter should routinely be replaced every 10,000 miles.

    TANK:
    When the fuel pump in the fuel tank is replaced, it is recommended that the tank screen and tank wiring harness should be replaced also. Some even recommend that the tank should be removed and cleaned when the fuel pump, harness and screen are replaced. The logic is that fuel pumps must have a reason to fail and if the harness is bad and the screen is contaminated, the new pump will prematurly fail.
  • tchill93tchill93 Posts: 2
    Thanks - is the fuel filter something anyone can do like a thermastat? Also, would the mechanic have replaced the harness and tank wiring automatically? It was about a $400 repair but there was no mention of those things.
    Thanks again.
  • chumdrexchumdrex LouiaianaPosts: 3
    I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 engine. Recently changed fuel pump & filter, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires and coil. Starts fine when engine is cold and drives well. I drive 13 miles to work, when I stop engine, it won't start back up unless I wait about 10 to 15 minutes. Notice an increase in fuel consumption after pump was changed. No SES light and no codes show up on reader. Repair shop is not helpful anymore. The wife is aggravated and so am I. Please Help!!!
  • igmaamigmaam Posts: 4
    We had a similar irritating problem with our old Blazer. Would start fine cold, but not when warm, unless you walked away and left it for 15 minutes or so. It would also start right up with jumper cables. After trying any number of things, we finally replaced the battery. It seems obvious now, but at the time we had been assured the battery was fine. It wasn't and the old Blazer starts fine all the time now.
  • I have a blazer 98 that have problem starting. The instrument panel is not working properly. From time to time the temp and gas gauge will go out and the security, gas and batt. light will go on, sometime will fix itself an the car will start.

    The electromechanic mention that is the Instrument panel Cluster the one causing the problem and I can not get a replacement for it. please assit.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Hi guys:

    I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle) About 3 months ago I was driving from Pa to NY, about 120 miles each way. It is mainly highway driving. I was near my destination on the highway, when it stalled out on me. I pulled over and it started right up. Then after I got off the highway, it started to stall out by every light and stop sign, and again it started right up each time.

    On my way back home about 6 hours later, again it was doing the same thing. Once I got to the highway it ran fine for a about 105 miles. Once I got to my exit on the highway and got off, the car stalled out again. This time it would not start up. So I had it towed back to my house. The next day it started right up. I shut it off and I went to buy new spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve, and fuel filter. I had the fuel pump changed in May of 2005 (about 15,000 miles ago) The fuel pressure is 58 with IOEO. It still does not start. I do not have any engine light on.

    I went to a salvage yard where you pull your own parts. I got a used Map sensor, IAC sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, CPI unit and a computer. It was from a vehicle that was in an accident. I changed parts one at a time. It still won't start. I checked the oil, I do smell gas in it. I know that means that there is a leak somewhere. I'm not sure what that means nor how to look for that?

    I also read in your posts that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the Haynes repair manual and it does not mention anything about it. Can any one please tell me where it is and be specific about it and is it hard to change? Can someone also tell me if you could start the car with the Air intake plenum off the car, or does it have to be on and under pressure?

    Thanks for all your help.
    George

    PS. You guys are great! I learn so much from these forums. I feel like I could one day become a mechanic from these forums.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Look from under the front bumper at the underside of the crankshaft, about the 7 o'clock position and you will see it. Has a plug going to it with three wires.

    If you have a hard failure of the CPS, there should be a code set in the computer.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Thanks for your quick reply, will check it tomorrow. It does not set a code on the computer.
  • I know how it can be...sitting in traffic and have the car refuse to run. I replaced the fuel pump one time and had the same issue reappear after about 30 days...The pump simply did not go on when the key is turned(normally you can hear it charge the fuel line and stop moments after turning the ignition key to the ON position. Well the fuel pump package does recomend replacing the harness and it is normally supplied with the pump...I did this and on the next hot day with the AC running, the car stalled. I could hear the pump charge the system, but the car acted as if it had no spark. It turned over just fine...just would not start. Then after about 15 minutes, it fired up no problem. IT IS THE FILTER. From 2000-2003 GM had an issue with the fuel filters causing the pump to register a charged line and subsequently shut off before the injector actually had enough pressure to send a supply into the engine cylinder. So it acted electrical when the problem is a clogged in line fuel filter. A $16.00 fix and it runs just fine now. GOOD LUCK tchill93.
    Glenn
  • Oddly enough...it may be the inline fuel filter...the pump is charging the system to what it thinks is full...then shutting of. If the filter is clogged, the pump does not know the injectors don't have enough pressure..because the pressure is between the in line filter and the tank...
  • It's just the inline fuel filter...$16.00 at any auto parts store...the part is located just under the drivers seat on the frame rail.
  • I had a similar problem with my 1997 Blazer a couple of years ago. I took it to a dealer (bad mistake). They told me it was the crank sensor $500. Wrong. I took it to a local mechanic. It was the ignition switch (not the key switch). Change this and you shouldn't have any more problems. Also take it to a local parts store to see if your computer shows bad computer codes. This service is free.
  • Have a local mechanic look at your ignition switch.
  • I have a 97 Blazer and it won't start unless you pour gas into the carburetor. It will then run but when you cut it of it won't start again unless you pour the gas into the carburetor again. Like today we did that and let it run for about two hours in the driveway and it sounded great but as soon as we cut it off that was it. We changed the fuel filter and we can hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key. And another thing it has been doing is cutting off when you start to slow down to stop or make a turn. It doesn't do it every time but it does do it a couple of times after you first start to drive it. If anyone has had this happen or has any ideas of what the problem could be please let me know. Thanks!
  • lanarlanar Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 blazer and on hot days the truck will run for a while then starts shutting off. It will restarts but then in about 15 min. it will die again. I don't know what it is . It acts like the fuel pump isn't working right but you can here it prime and you can here it run. I've replaced the fuel filter and the relay . I acts like it's got something to due with the temp. Like something is getting to hot and kills the truck. I'm losted on this one i've had it looked at and they say nothings wrong with it. So can someone please help me my two kids ride in the truck and its getting really bad.
  • I already have a post #189 and I haven't gotten any response to it. I need some help bad. As I had said in my first post, I have a 97 Blazer and it won't start unless you pour gas into the carburetor. It will then run but when you cut it off it won't start again unless you pour the gas into the carburetor again. Like today we did that and let it run for about two hours in the driveway and it sounded great but as soon as we cut it off that was it. We changed the fuel filter and we can hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key. And another thing it has been doing is cutting off when you start to slow down to stop or make a turn. It doesn't do it every time but it does do it a couple of times after you first start to drive it.Today we checked the fuel line we can see that the fuel is moving from the tank to the motor but then it stops and will not go to the carburetor. Please if anyone could help I would appreciate it. I need to get this fixed asap!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Blodie, If you have a '97 with the 4.3L V6, it doesn't have a carburetor, it is fuel injected. If you are pouring fuel into the throttle body, you are bypassing the fuel injection and all of it's sensors. Not a good plan. So, your description of the problem is a bit confusing.

    With regard to the problem, it could be a bad crankshaft position sensor. If the sensor doesn't "see" the engine turning, it shuts off the fuel flow. This sensor is mounted down by the crankshaft at the 7 o'clock position facing the engine.

    Questions:

    How many miles on the engine?
    Did the problem come on suddenly, or worsen over time?
    Is the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on when the engine is running?

    The fuel pump circuit is designed to pressurize when you first turn the key on, but will only continue to run if the CPS tells the computer the engine is turning. Give us some more detail and we will try to help.

    Jim
  • Blondie16 I have a 98 my problem would be hard to start everytime crank for awhile. After some research I found alot of people have problems with the spider assembly and fuel pressure regulator or just one of the two. My problem was the fuel pressure regulator. There is a guy on here that tells you the whole step by step of the whole process and pictures. If you cant find it you basicly have to remove the braket for the fuel line back of plentum driver side you will see two silver lines. remove the throttle and cruise cable and brakets. the air cleaner, the throttle body the bolts around the plentum I beleive its 13 for the plentum. It sounds harder then it really is. I replaced mine in about an hour. If you have the money replace the spider assembly it houses all the injecters or clean , replace the fuel pressure regulater put al back together and it should do yiou some good it helped my sh runs great now. Let me know if you need more detail Ill keep looking.
  • Thank you, it has 150,000 miles on it and the engine light is on when it's running. It wasn't when this first started but now it is. This starting happening slowly, I would go out in the morning to start it and it would take me a couple of times to get it to crank, but then after a week it turned into about five minutes of trying before it would start. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all. And would this also cause it to cut off when I slow down to stop or slow down to make a turn?
  • Thank you, we are going to check all of this out and hopefully with all of the suggestions I'm getting something will work.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    okay, now we are getting somewhere. Typically, when the crankshaft position sensor fails the engine shuts down. Turning the key off, then back on can clear the "fault" and let the car start.

    But the description you detailed above with the problem getting worse and worse does sound more like the fuel regulator or fuel spider assembly. GM did have a problem with regulators "leaking down" where the engine would get flooded when not running, making it very hard to start, and causing it to run rough at low speed. At higher engine speeds the engine would run rich, but still run.

    If you have an Autozone in your area, they can read the code that has been set in the computer and tell you where the problem is occuring. Any time a service engine soon lamp is lit, a code is set in the ECM indicating what is wrong. Let me say here that you have to put some thought behind what it tells you. I have seen folks replace oxygen sensors because thats what the code said was bad, when the problem was a damaged wiring harness. I had a car that twice indicated the throttle position sensor was bad. Shop replaced it twice under warranty before the mechie noticed that one of the contacts wasn't snapped into the connector and was only making intermittent connection. Once fully seated, the problem never occured again.

    So, get the code checked, and see if you get a heavy fuel smell from the throttle body after the vehicle sits overnight. That will give you an indication that the fuel regulator is leaking.
  • Ok, I didn't check my email until after I went and bought the crank shaft sensor and put it on. Well that's not the problem so I took it back and bought one of those Haynes books and we still can't locate the fuel regulator or the fuel spider assembly. And I can't get it to an Auto Zone safely because the closes one to where it's being worked on at isn't in a good area. By the time they got done checking the code I may not have any wheels. Could you tell me where we can locate these two things or is there something I could look up and it show me?
  • rddivarddiva Posts: 1
    hi im a new member "of the club" i was reading this message and your reply.
    can you tell me if i would have a canister on my 1993 s-10 blazer 4.3 vortex? if so would this canister prevent normal performance of the vehicle, such as cranking / running? the vehicle will crank{not consistently} but when it will you can maybe go a mile && it shuts down. if i had to describe , it feels like trash in the fuel line/obstruction. however, let it sit for an hour && it cranks up. i have replaced 4fuel pumps{3 nock-offs & 1 ac delco} list of items replaced is excessive: fuel pump assembly, fueltank, relay,fuel filter, cpi spydar assembly, oil sending unit{my oil pressure showed low @times when full}, o2 sensor & ignition module,. the fuel pressure is excellent & consistent. we have got a trouble code # 43 electronic spark control but haynes manual is vague on the subject. i know you re thinking all that for a 1993? yes with a rebuilt motor with no more than 30,000miles. we cant give up, however, we are getting frustrated!! please ANYONE can you help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The regulator and spider assembly are in the intake assembly. Let me see if I can locate a picture and I will post a link.
  • ok the regulator for the fuel is between the intake were your air cleaner goes into the engine and the bottom intake. all you have to do is take the air cleaner assembly off then the throttle body and the plugs around it also the cable for throttle and cruise after this you will see the black dome like plastic piece the plentum, the haynes book does not get into detail so what i am saying is start to tear down the top of the engine. if you need more help e-mail me at [email protected] I will try to find the post with pictures that helped me.
  • isoiaisoia Posts: 6
    Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?

    Thanks, iSOiA
  • isoiaisoia Posts: 6
    Thanks for your response. My Dad ended up securing it with zip-ties. So far, so good, it's still holding together. But I'm still having the same problem with the engine cutting out on hot days. Runs good with no problems during the night while it's cooler. My Dad's conclusion is a vapor lock. Can I solve this problem without having to take into the shop? I also heard from another mechanic using wooden clothes pins to help lessen the heat in the fuel lines.

    Mike | [email protected]
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Clothes pins? Please.....

    The fuel line to the filter is a hard connection on the driver's side of the frame.A hard connection is necessary because of the high fuel line pressure used with modern fuel injection. The "vapor lock" problem does not occur anymore. That was in the early days of carburated engines and has not occured since the mid-1960s and then it was caused by underhood temperatures. If it were a problem today, you would hear about vapor lock more often. You must solve the fuel line to filter issue and zip locks are only a temporary spit and bailing wire solution. Replacing the fuel filter can be troublesome due to the location and the hard connections but those type connections must be made. If the fuel line is damaged, the damaged area must be cut out and replaced with section of new fuel line and brass connections.

    The problem is most likely electrical. Start by replacing the fuel tank relay. They are cheap. The relay is located under the dash and is a plug-in connection. The fuel pump relay is AC Delco 15-50688 and it costs $9.00.

    A restricted catalytic converter will cause the exhaust O2 sensor to tell the ECM (Engine Control Module) to make the engine do strange things. There is no way to check for a restricted catalytic converter except to replace it. If someone wants to test a catalytic converter for a restricted condition before they replace it, the only thing that can be done is to replace it with a temporary "test pipe" to see if the vehicle's performance improves. An emmissions test will not indicate if the catalytic converter is restricted. Factory catalytic converters are expensive. Since they are required on vehicles by the federal government, the new car manufacturers must guarantee them for 80,000 miles. The cheaper aftermarket catalytic converters that are installed on pre-owned vehicles must be guaranteed for only 26,000 miles. Your O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter could be bad but are easy to replace. An O2 sensor is AC Delco AFS 105.....$65.00.

    You appear to have good fuel pressure. However, the fuel pump module assembly cost from $360 to $400 for a 2000 Jimmy, depending on the brand plus the labor cost for installation. I doubt if that is your problem.
  • I'm having starting issues with my 1999 Blazer. I believe the problem could be a regulator or another fuel system component. Did you find any pictures of the regulator and/or the spider assembly? Did replacing either of these components solve your starting problems.

    My Blazer starts but it usually cranks quite a few times before it starts. It never used to do this and it is getting worse. It always starts and once it is running it runs great. It just takes a few tries to get it started.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I couldn't find postable photos, but the assembly is inside the two piece intake manifold. I believe the regulator is in there with it.

    "Spider" is a good name for this assembly. There is a large injector 'pump' with six tubes, each one running out to a cylinder.
  • He still can't find the fuel regulator on my blazer but he did find the map sensor is it around that? Can you find and send me a picture of it?Or tell me ( in detail ) where it is? I really need this fixed I haven't been able to drive it since June and I don't have alot of money to put into it so I can't take it to a dealer.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The fuel pressure regulator on 1987-1992 VIN-Z engines with TBI (Throttle Body Injection) is part of the throttle body assembly and can be replaced separately from the TBI assembly. AC Delco #217382 ( GM -17112399 ) The cost of the fuel pressure regulator is from $84.35 to $182.21 depending on where you purchase it and if you get a discount.

    On 1992-1995 Vin-W engines , the fuel pressure regulator is part of the CPI (Central Port Injection) assembly which is located inside the upper intake manifold plenum. You must remove the upper intake manifold plenum to access the CPI assembly. The fuel pressure regulator on those models cannot be replaced spearately from the CPI assembly. The cost of the CPI assembly is more than $500. There is an alternative to replacing the entire CPI assembly when the fuel pressure regulator fails. You can now purchase a new fuel pressure regulator separately from the CPI, It is offered by Dorman as part #55162 and it cost $47.95.

    I knew it was just a matter of time before some company would offer a fuel pressure regulator separately form the CPI assembly.
  • I have a 97 blazer 4.3 liter v6 vortex where would it be on that? I have tried to look up pictures of one but the pictures seem to stop at 95.
  • isoiaisoia Posts: 6
    I had the same problem, especially during the HOTTEST days of August. Though I do suggest checking your fuel lines underneath the driver seat. My problem was the plastic connectors were damaged. I had them replaced at Chevrolet, $700 for one (1) fuel line. It runs fine now, but I believe the problem still not fixed. When I'm at a complete stop, and when pressing on the accelerator I can feel the engine slip.
  • I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer LS, 4.3, automatic. It had a bad miss in it so I done the typical tune up (plugs, plug wire, air filter, fuel filter, oil change, oil filter). It took some of the miss out for about 3 weeks, now it's back to missing even worse now, :mad: so I dropped the gas tank and cleaned it out, put another fuel filter on it (cause when I replaced the first one it was really bad). I know the fuel pump is good and I know its getting fuel. I have replaced the relays so I know they are not the problem. Sometimes it starts very easy, sometimes it don't...sometimes it runs great, sometimes it don't. It has never completely died on me (yet) but it misses but not all the time. You can drive for a few miles and it runs great then it will start jumping and missing. If anyone has any suggestions.. :confuse: ..that would be great...thank you!!
  • Is this a backfiring (ignition) or stalling (fuel system) type of "miss"? And when does it do this? Does it happen mostly at idle, at highway speed, when the engine is just started, when fully warmed up, just when it's raining? Can you give more info? And have you had the fuel pressure actually measured?
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