Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • redneckgirlredneckgirl Member Posts: 2
    It is not backfiring, it has only completely stalled on me once, but fired right back up. It misses at various times, sometimes when your at idle sometimes when you running 40 to 50mph. I have noticed it does it more when it is warm but it also sometimes misses when you just start it. It does not miss all the time. I have not had the fuel pressure measured. Sometimes you can drive for 4 or 5 miles before it starts missing then you give it a little more gas and it quits missing for a bit. I took it to a garage today and explained to them what was happening and told them everything I have already done and they were also stumped. The guy at the garage (which didn't seem to know what he was talking about) said the catalytic converter may be plugged up, but from my experience, when a converter plugs up and you give it gas, the miss gets worse, so I really don't think thats the problem.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    Check fuel pressure and if it looses pressure change the fuel pressure regulator. I would also clean the spider assembly while all of the components are taken apart.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Are you getting a Check Engine light? There are any number of sensors that can cause the ignition to go intermittent and misfire.

    In my history, there have been two occasions of an intermittent crankshaft position sensor, but at $60, you don't want to swap this one unless you know it is bad. Stores a code, but I can't remember off the top of my head what it was. And if the lamp doesn't come on, the code won't be there anyway.
  • tony2605tony2605 Member Posts: 1
    What are the signs of a catalytic converter plugging and backfire sound from the cat...? Fuel filter changed, new fuel pump, 02 sensors before cat has been changed. po131 and po151 came-up before the changes. No rotting egg smell.
  • gg1328gg1328 Member Posts: 16

    I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle)



  • mchituckmchituck Member Posts: 1
    sounds like a leaking central port injection unit is it tbi or carb if it is tbi could be leaking on top of plenum which would cause fuel smell in the oil. I think this is the year that has the fuel regulator problems on the cpi or the fuel lines running through the plenum, but i wouldn't start it with plenum off but i would turn the key on so the fuel pump runs so you can look for a leak. They sell fuel a regulator repair kit and gm sells fuel line repair kit. One way to test it might be to put a fuel pressure guage on it turn the key its supposed to hold around 50-60 psi for 2 min if it bleeds off you know you have a leak. Also if you do have a leak it should be very noticable when you take off upper plenum should be black if there is clean brown tint spots sign of where your fuel is leaking. I have a 98 blazer thats how i know this stuff its having starting probs need to replace ignition control module, or distributer cap
  • gg1328gg1328 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for your quick reply. I'm trying to locate the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. If you could please be specific about its location. Thanks.
  • xpresofanatikxpresofanatik Member Posts: 1
    use to start beautifully. got in and it started and died and started and died tehn clicked like battery dead. Replaced battery and banged on starter, still clicked. Took it to mechanic and he said probably starter but instead of me buying it and it not being it he tried to turn the engine manually and did so but said that it turns counterclockwise but when he turns it clockwise it goes for a little while than gets to where he can't move it any longer. Why? Should I replace the starter? What about all the ppl on here that say the cylanoid or relay or flywheel not lining up? They say to grease up spark plugs and replace them. I am a single parent with no $ for a new car. please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Look at the crankshaft, bottom pulley, front of engine. There should be a small wire harness coming from above and plugging into a small device at the 7 o'clock position as you face the engine.

    That device is the CPS. If it isn't there, you now know why the car won't start!

  • gg1328gg1328 Member Posts: 16
    Thank you very much!!! I will look for it on the weekend.

  • chosen1_931chosen1_931 Member Posts: 2
    ok i have a 96 chevy blazer i have replaced spark plugs and wires,the egr valve,new fuel pump,and fuel filter,new air filter,rotary cap and button ,a sensor or something thats underneath the rotary cap and buton,the pcv valve, ive ran dry gas threw it an fuel injection cleaner an everything i can think of the check engine light is not on ...ok if im jus driving regular the truck misses very very bad if i get on it it will miss at first then smooth out an occasonily miss an as soon as i slow down it will start missing real bad again the motor isnt making any weird noises or anything an ive also checked for vacum leaks an cant find any please if you no wats wrong help me i would greatly appreciate it!!!!!!!!!!thanks
  • gg1328gg1328 Member Posts: 16
    Hi, it's me again. I looked for the Crankshaft Position Sensor this morning, and I couldn't find it. I took off some kind of mat that was bolted to the bottom so i could have a better and closer look. I looked hi and low all around near the bottom pulley at the 7 o'clock position. I thought maybe it broke off and i would see wires hanging. Nope. No wires either. Can you please still assist me further. Might it be in some other location?

    Thanks again,
  • blazergirl96blazergirl96 Member Posts: 5
    Hi. I wish I could help you...because I have almost the exact same problem!! Same year and done almost all the same things!!! I do notice that mine is worse if I drive in OD. If I am in's a little better. So I am with you on looking for an answer!! It's driving me crazy!!

    Good Luck!
  • chosen1_931chosen1_931 Member Posts: 2
    a buddy of mine owns a garage an he checked it out for me he said he had a blazer come in same year an everything doing the same thing he said it was the injectors wich on this year modle is the spider injectors he said theyre bad for cracking on the hoses coming off the injectors (the part that looks like legs off a spider) i have had several people tell me the same thing so i have ordered one an when i put it on.... if it fixes the prob. i will deff. let ya no
  • john2295john2295 Member Posts: 1
    1996 chevy blazer..
    Engine turns over but won't start..I'm not to much of a mech..But I can swap parts if I know the right direction to go..
    Dies this sound like a fuel pump or filter issue? I don't have anyway to test fuel pressure..But if swapping a fuel filter can save me from spending bigger bucks to swap a fuel pump, I will..Or am I looking in the wrong place?
  • jcc273jcc273 Member Posts: 1
    My blazer is definitely doing the same exact thing right now. Well what happened was it was doing the same exact thing and then after about a week of that it started actually missing while i was driving a steady speed where as originally it only did it when i was idling or coming to a stop. Then about a day after it started doing that it just shut off, and then it wouldn't turn back over, it just cranked and wouldn't fire. I replaced the spider injector and it ran wonderfully for about a week, then i got out of work one day and it wouldn't start, the fuel pump went. I replaced the fuel pump and its been about a week now and just yesterday it started up with what it was originally doing again, where if im not driving at a steady speed it wants to die, so i guess the fuel injector was not the problem in this case although maybe it is in yours i don't know. i don't know if im caught in a continual circle of part replacement or what, but if anyone has nailed down the exact thing that causes this i would greatly appreciate it if you would let me know before it dies completely on me again : )
  • v_bunnies10100v_bunnies10100 Member Posts: 3
    I thought putting in a new Fuel sensor would fix the problem but still won't start. Could it be the emissions? How would I get that checked? could I do it at home? I have a 2003 Blazer. Drove it home one day and it just shut down, like no fuel was getting to the engine. Niw it won't start at all. Was there a recall on this in 04 and 05? Please reply, Thank you v_bunnies1010
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    That could be a cheap item to fix or it could be very expensive. Always start with the cheapest item first. Start by checking the fuel pressure, if any.
    The fuel pressure should be 62 lb. start and 54 lb. running. If there is no pressure or low pressure, it could be :
    Fuel pump relay, AC Delco 1550688....$10.11
    Fuel filter, AC Delco GF845 ...$13.59
    Fuel injection regulator kit, AC Delco 217-3074....$56.87
    Fuel pump module kit, AC Delco, 4-door, MU 1064...$372.79
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    I would think that your fuel pressure regulator is bad, did you replace that too? also mybe the crankshaft position sensor.
  • jakeraven27jakeraven27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Chevy Blazer and i replaced the starter about 4 months ago. The car started fine for a while but now its making a grinding noise when i try to start it i had the starter tested and it was fine i replaced the battery and still have a problem.Also this truck had a tune up and it is still missing when i drive dont know what to do anyone have a suggestion i am frustrated.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Did your mechanic check the starter gears?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jakeraven27jakeraven27 Member Posts: 2
    No i have not yet but plan on doing that today,Also after i had the truck tuned up i changed the plugs and the wires it ran like new but only a week latter it started missing again,I am afraid the transmission may be going out what else could it be i know i have fluid.Would a diagnostic test tell me if the transmission is going?Thank you for your time and your help it is appreciated so much.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Would a diagnostic test tell me if the transmission is going?

    That wouldn't hurt but I don't think the transmission would have any effect on starting the truck based on the symptoms you described.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • allenax78allenax78 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 s-10 blazer 4.3L. It recently wouldn't trend no problems..........i stopped at my kid's school and when i came out it tried to start for a second and died. After that it turns over but makes no attempt to actually start. I have an existing problem i believe to be with the fuel sending unit......the gas guage doesn't work (anything less than a full tank the gas meter flucuates and doesn't go less than half a tank ever.) The gas guage problem has been like that for about 5 years. When I turn the key on, and when i try to crank it there is no "whirring sound" associated with the fuel pump running.....i swapped the fuel pump relay with the ac one (same part no.) luck.....i can feel the relay picking up when you turn the key on...I changed the fuel filter today....but i have to charge the battery back up to retest, however when i went to depresurize the fuel lines i found no pressure at the gauge connection or at the fuel filter (which did seem very tough to blow through). If there was pressure on the supply side of the filter i would think the pump wasn't running based on pressure already locked on that side of the system....any suggestions?
  • allenax78allenax78 Member Posts: 3
    I'm trying to find the oil pressure and relay bypass wire/connector for the fuel pump that is mentioned in the haynes manual. Additionally i'm trying to check for voltage at the fuel pump at the top of the tank.....i can only get to one connection on the tank but i believe its for something else......maybe a pressure sensor or something. I've been judging tank level by miles driven....and initially thought i had run out of gas about 50 miles earlier than i should have....I'm not sure if it was really out of gas. I put 4 gallons in to try to start it....but have run down the battery trying...along with testing.......any help would be appreciated. I plan on checking spark plug wires for spark and then dropping the fuel tank to check for voltage at the pump....(cont'd from post 238)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Don't laugh. Take your foot and kick the bottom of the fuel tank, hard. Maybe a couple of times. Then see if it starts. You wouldn't believe how many times this works. If it does, there is a new fuel pump in your future.
  • allenax78allenax78 Member Posts: 3
    alright......I'm getting spark to the plugs....put in new plugs just cause they were due.......replaced the fuel pump/fuel sending unit....Gas guage works now......still no fuel pump running. Still don't know where the oil pressure bypass connector is. Question: How do i check the crank position sensor (i see the connection) and would it cause the pump not to start at all. After I changed the connector associated with the fuel pump i realized I didn't have small enough leads to fit into the connector to check for voltage..missed opportunity. The old fuel pump was burned up (<1 ohm, new pump is 28 ohms), and fuel level sender was bad (works now). Can anyone help me further??
  • SmashInaChevySmashInaChevy Member Posts: 1
    I NEED HELP!!!! I Have a chevy k5 Blazer And Well To Be Honest It Gots Alot Of Problems But Its A Beast And Runns On My Way Up To School One Dat It Keep Shuting Off And Not Ideling Now It Wont Even Start At All At First I Checked The Starter to See If It Got Backed Up Or Something Thats Not The Problem Could It Be The Ingnition Wires? Wat Do I Do To Fix This? It Wont Even Turn Over Would I Have To Replace The Wiring Harness? Could I Have Fryed it Turning It On and off So Much?
  • Edgar4642Edgar4642 Member Posts: 2
    I also had the same problem on the same type of vehicle once. I did evrything you mentioned (tune-up, sensors, etc) and it acted fine for awhile and then it would start to fart around. The response was delayed and it seemed plugged. I changed my EGR valve which is underneath your air intake and above your engine coolant hose (on the 4.3 L only). That worked so well that I don't get any backfiring or nonsense.

    When I was trying to accelerate on the freeway attempting to pass another car, my RPM needle would jump and then lag back down, then I'd have push the pedal all the way down to get enugh response to pass. Try the EGR valve and get a gasket with the filtering screen on it. This way if you have tons of carbon in your manifold the EGR valve wont get clogged. If you cant afford to buy a new EGR, then try cleaning it but if it's busted, just change it and save yourself some time.

    If this doesn't work, get rid of it. :)
  • dawn25dawn25 Member Posts: 2
    Hi my Blazer will only turn over if it has been boosted or sat on a charger for several hours...if you turn it off it wont turn over again even if you try as soon as you turn it off. It has a new battery, its been in the shop for always blowing fuses and starting issues (it use to hold a charge once boosted) due to a burnt out bulb under the hood. That burnt bulb cost me enough, If someone has an idea what could be my problem please any suggestions welcome.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    All S10 Blazers have a small amount of parasitic battery drain when the cars is just sitting without the engine running unless you disconect a battery cable. That is because the ECM, clock, sensors, theft alarms, and relays stay energized all the time. However, due to the blown fuses you have had, it is quite obvious that your car has overloads or shorts in the wiring that is increasing the battery drain, at least until a fuse blows. A bad relay will not cause a fuse to blow but it will cause a increase in battery drain. A bad relay is just like a short but is not solid enough to blow a fuse. Make sure all your accessories are working.

    For example, a bad power door lock relay on my 1991 S10 Blazer caused a 8 month old Autolite battery to go completely dead after the car sat for a week without being started and driven. Once a battery goes completely dead it will not take a full charge and should be replaced. I replaced the power door lock relay with a new one from NAPA and I also replaced the dead Autolite battery with a AC Delco 60 month battery. Now the Blazer has no electrical problems.

    I also purchased a Beltran 800 ma Battery Tender to connect to the battery in case my Blazer sits again for an extended period without being driven.. If you have a parasitic battery drain of less than 800 ma, the Beltran 800 ma battery tender will keep the battery fully charged no matter how long it sits without being driven. Normal parasitic battery drain is usually no more than 10 ma on a S10 Blazer. A good multimeter can tell you exactly how much parasitic battery drain you car has.
  • dawn25dawn25 Member Posts: 2
    Thank-you for all your suggestions. I also have issues with my power door locks were is the relay for the door lock. You have definitely have helped narrowed the list down. Thanks again
  • bedardbedard Member Posts: 3
    We were driving for about 20 min and then it died so we pulled over tried to start it and it wouldnt start. it then started shaking and backfiring. We recently replaced the fuel pump and gas tank. Anybody have an idea as to why it's not starting?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check engine light?

    Several things could cause this, a MAP sensor being one of them. Generally speaking, the vehicle has suffered a hard failure and if it is sensor related you should have a code stored.

    Other concerns would be jumped timing from a worn timing chain/gear set. Also an ignition issue from the distributor.
  • bedardbedard Member Posts: 3
    check engine light is not on. i bought the motor brand new 3 years ago it only has 40,000 miles on it. like i said no warning at all no check engine light just died. i just replaced fuel pump and i just double checked my pressure its good (60 psi)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You may have a code set anyway. The symptom described can be a number of things, and I don't want to send you down the road of parts swapping. Did the new engine come with a distributor, or did you pull the one from the old engine? If from the old, was the rotor and cap changed? A MAP sensor will do this also where all is good and suddenly every thing goes nuts because of a bad input to the computer causes fuel mix to go way off, ignition timing, all sorts of problems. But a number of other sensors can also cause similar issues, like the crank position sensor.

    These things aren't cheap. See if you can find a buddy with an OBDII scan tool. Autozone will check it for you, but the car has to be at their store and it sounds like that isn't going to happen!
  • 92hatchbackk92hatchbackk Member Posts: 1
    ok so check this out.. I got a 97 blazer 4x4, and last week i did plugs/wire, fuel filter, and cleaned the cap an rotor cause i replaced em last year. i drove the truck after and it was solid, my dad drives it and about 3 miles from my house the truck backfires and and shuts off... wont start again. so we didnt hear the fuel pump turning on so i dropped the tank and replaced that and the tank breather that broke the first time we replaced the fuel pump, and now the truck has plugs,wires,fuel filter, and fuel pump and still wont start!! i know its not the coil cause that shocked the hell out of me.. can someone pleaseeee help me out im struggling to keep my sanity!
  • sandwichmansandwichman Member Posts: 3
    I've had a similar problem with my 1997 Blazer (Vortec V6). My problem was that some of the electrical components would work... windows, lights, radio, etc would work and would crank, but not start. But, if I flicked the key on/off enough times the gauges would all light up and I could hear the fuel pump buzz - and the Blazer would start fine. Sometimes it would work sometimes it wouldn't. Very annoying, very frustrating.
    My problem - the Turn Signal arm. There are a bunch of connections on the backside of the arm - if you don't pull it straight out when removing it the horn will honk, etc.... Seemed silly that they wouldn't insulate them more. So, I put some electric tape on the steering column and Dielectric Compound on the connections. Put the key in and it started fine. Turned it off and on a couple dozen times and worked every time. I haven't had the problem since. This was 4 months ago.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    It sounds like the ignition is bad. I would try that. Or a bad fuel pump relay.
  • sandwichmansandwichman Member Posts: 3
    LOL - read my message!
    I fixed my problem.
  • bedardbedard Member Posts: 3
    We changed the MAP sensor, the engine came with the distributor, changed the rotor, plugs, wires. we had it checked and it was giving off 2 codes, thats when we changed the fuel pump. someone told me it could be the computer? they said it should only give off one code? Its not the ignition coil either we tried replacing that. Im going nuts. I guess we will have to get a scan tool and see if it reads anymore codes, thanks.
  • iafffireman823iafffireman823 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, I'm new to this world of online help. After years of working on cars and being out of the business I am finally stumped. I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec with 189,172 miles on it and still running strong.....well when i can get it started. In the past as of three years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter. Both are fine and working. I have a fuel pressure at switch turn of 60 psi. and a running pressure of 54 psi. Both from what I understand as in with in range. Next I do have a good battery. Here's how the problem goes. When I go to start my truck it will try to turn over and sounds as it should, it just doesnt fire as it isnt getting fuel or the battery is weak. Now when you either a) give it a little shot of ether or you b) hook jumper cables it will fire right up. I'm kind of at my ends wit with this issue. Anyone have any good ideas as to where I can look to solve this issue. And please note this starting issue is only occuring when I start the vehicle for the first time of the day. Also when the weather is warmer out above 50 degrees it seems to start right up. Thanks for the help and input! :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Oh, no, you can have several codes stored. To test out an ECM, I pulled the connector to the MAP, MAF, EGR, and TPS then checked to see if all the codes were caught, and they were. Find out all the codes that are set and see what you get.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check the ground at the block, check the battery cables to be sure they aren't acid eaten up under the insulation. It sounds like you have a low voltage condition. Ether makes it fire off with less spark, and jumping bumps the current up and will help overcome the voltage drop across a weak ground or power connection.

    Regarding the battery, check the voltage while cranking. I have come across a lot of new batteries lately that have problems, most of them from Autozone. Not a slam against Autozone in particular, but whoever is making their batteries is having problems.
  • iafffireman823iafffireman823 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the help, i will consider those issues. Also I may have forgotten to mention the fact my SES light is on and throws out the code PO453 which I believe deals with the EVAP system and its reading high. I'm going to consider with the problems i've been having that maybe it might be a bad fuel vapor pressure switch on the fuel pump. And its been a while since i've done one of those but it does just simply thread into the pump where the old one simply threads out. Just one other direction and item I forgot to mention, again, great forum and great help! :confuse:
  • trkrjohnboytrkrjohnboy Member Posts: 1 heres the deal with my 2000 blazer...230,000+ miles...when the outside air temp gets above 70 degrees...truck wont run...starts and idles, but any pressure on the throttle will cause it to die, sputter, backfire...etc...can feather the throttle to get the rpms up...but as soon as i let off the gas and attempt to give it more...same result...can even idle down the road at about 30 mph with very tricky throttle play...has new fuel pump and filter, coil pack, ignition module( inside the dist cap) and well as various other new parts...and again this only happens when the air temp gets above 70...this started last fall...but with cold temp over the winter...has been ok...well spring is here...and had a prob a week came the new fuel pump(the third one this truck has had in the two years ive had it ) and now that im broke down in FL where its finding out the pump wasnt the issue....any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks :)
  • jbuttersjbutters Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Blazer did the same thing.... after researching this for many, many days. This is what causes the problem.

    You need a new fuel injection spider, GM upgraded the one that is in your 1999 blazer, to a new spider that has MFI Injectors. It is a direct replacement. All you do is change the whole injector spider as a unit, it has the six new redesigned injectors.
    The injector unit that is in your truck now was a bad design, and GM knows that now. They always stick, and quit working after about 150,000 miles.
    The new replacement part fixes all issues with this.

    Google " GM Part # 12568332 " and you can read all about this.

    GM part #

    12568332 - MFI Assembly

    17113215 - Seal kit

    $300 - $400 from the GM dealer.

    Less than $200 from

    Read the install notes at this link.

    My truck runs like new.

  • jbuttersjbutters Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor. This is a part on the drivers side of the throttle body.

    Or the map sensor. (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
  • grfenngrfenn Member Posts: 1
    My son had a bearing go bad on his 1997 blazer last August and we bough a rebuilt engine. Got it installed and running just after Christmas. It keeps having starters go out. We bought a reman starter from AutoZone and are on the 6th warranty replacement. At least 2 had solenoid/bendix problems where the motor would spin but not "kick" the bendix. The last one we shimmed thinking perhaps we were binding somehow. Lasted about a week before before it quit- this time it seemed to be a chewed up bendix,but when we pulled it out,what we had was a the "snout" of the starter had fractured off so starter shaft wasn't supported. Flywheel still seems to be OK (no missing teeth, seems to be "true"). The only thing I can think of is something not properly lined up, but what? Trans seems to be properly bolted to engine block. No real adjustment to starter install other than shims. Any ideas?
  • jsbartrumjsbartrum Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Chevy Blazer has a starting issue. If I start the car for the first time of the day it will start fine. After I park it, if I try to start it again within an hour of shutting it off, it just cranks and cranks and cranks. If it cools off and you try to start it, it fires rght up. Can anyone help me with this issue? All Ive done is replaced the fuel pump, and the ignition wires. I replaced the entire ignition system about 3 years ago.
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