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Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • igmaamigmaam Posts: 4
    Had the same thing on a '92. It would start when cool, but just crank painfully when hot. Got so I was afraid to drive it more than a couple miles between errands. If we let it cool down for a while or if we jump-started, it would fire up fine. Thought the battery was good and so looked at a lot of other things, but upon recheck discovered the battery was actually dying. Replaced it and the old girl hasn't had a problem since. Knock on wood.
  • Sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator, try to push the gas pedal all the way down while cranking mine did the same thing.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The problem could be the battery, starter solenoid or the starter or it could be all of them. If the battery and the connections are known to be good, the starter or the starter solenoid may be suffering from "heat soak" since the engine starts when cool but does not start when the engine is hot. Heat soak is an indication of a bad starter and/or starter solenoid. That is because the contacts and windings in those items have higher resistance when the battery is hot and a weak battery cannot overcome the resistance. A new battery will sometimes start a engine even if it has a bad starter or solenoid by overcoming the higher resistance in the heat soak condition.

    It is not wise to go the cheap route and just replace the solenoid and neglect to replace the starter. They should be replaced as a unit because it is nearly the same amount of labor to replace either one and it is not a pleasant job, so you do not want to do it twice or pay for having it done twice. Never tell a auto repair shop what to replace. Always let the repair shop technician tell you what needs to be replaced.. Unscrouplous repair shops are just waiting for someone to tell them what to replace. Then they are off the hook if it does not fix the problem..

    When I was a junior in high school, I replaced a starter solenoid on my 1955 Studebaker Champion 6-cylinder when it failed to start engage the starter when we were on the beach at Galveston. It was easy on that vehicle and I did not even have to get under the car. It is impossible to replace the starter and solenoid without raising the car on a Blazer or any V6 or V8 for that matter. If I was still physically able, replacing the starter and solenoid on a S10 Blazer would be a 4 hour job for me.

    Starters and starter solenoids wear out slowly over a period of time similar to shock absorbers. You do not know how bad they were until you replace them.
  • fixit8fixit8 Posts: 1
    I had this same problem with my 2001 Blazer. i had to leave it at work overnight.i had it towed to a machanic the next day he put the key in and it started right up. he couldn't fine a problem. it started up fine for about 3 weeks,then same thing happen.so i did some research and this is what i found out.GM has serveral security systems.on the 2001 Blazer it is the pass key version so if your key becomes worn the system does.nt recognize your key the same cane happen with key that are not from the dealer. the good news is there is a easy fix. you have to reset the system, her's how(put the key in the ignition turn it to the start position the truck want start release it to the on position leave it in that position for 10 min.then turn the key to the off position wait 5 sec. then do this 2 more times. after the third time the next time you insert the key the system will recognize the key and start. it worked for me . Try IT..... cost 30 min. of time
  • lpzlpz Posts: 3
    2002 Blazer intermittantly will stall right after starting. I have to hold the accelerator for about 10 minutes until it idles normally (500 - 600 rpm) to go. Most times it starts and runs just fine. I never can tell when or where this stall problem will occur. It could be the first start of the day or it could happen after the 2nd, 3rd or 4th stop/start - I don't know when it will happen. All diagnostic codes of the computer come back normal and it doesn't happen while the service man has it.
  • dselfdself Posts: 1
    I have an 87 blazer with a 350. Wouldnt start yesterday, poured some fuel in the throttle body and it did and then died, is it the fuel pump in the tank or the injection system and is there a test to eliminate on or the other?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Turn the key to "on" without going to the start position. You should hear a buzzing sound from the fuel tank as the fuel pump primes up. If you don't, turn the key off, and kick the bottom of the fuel tank two or three times and try starting again. Don't laugh, this is a well established "emergency recovery" for a dying fuel pump. If you do hear the buzz as the pump primes, check your fuel filter, and check for fuel pressure at the throttle body.

    I am betting on a dying fuel pump.
  • zcarpzcarp Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 4.3 chevy blazer. have replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, egr valve. engine runs fine gets satisfactory gas milage. My problem is the initial start. Engine rumbles upon on start-up. Like the whole engine shakes. Engine always starts and runs fine but the initial start is always rough. when you shut the engine off it does the same thing. Some times worse than other. Any suggestions why this is happening? More of an annoyance than anything.
  • marasmom25marasmom25 Posts: 1
    1990 full size blazer with a tbi 350 its stalling out only after it gets warm idles great then try to rev it up after its warm and it stalls out @ 1800 rpms even does so while driving but always restarts.it hasnt thrown any codes good coil cap, rotor and wires can anyone help???
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Fuel filter?
  • jyoung4478jyoung4478 Posts: 3
    Hi, I've been reading the passed posts and found it very interesting, I've had my Blazer for over a year now, and want to tune it up. My little sissy truck ran fine up until I got the brite idea to drive from florida to virginia (some 1800 miles). Before I left I changed the oil, the battery, and the air filter. The plugs, rotor and cap had been replaced with in a the passed 6 month so i thought nothing of it. I left on a rainy morning, it rained most on the way up and back. I noticed about the South Caralina border and the Service engine soon light came on border the engine was running a little ruff, and the Catalytic converter sounded like it had hole in it, the brakes had no vaccum assist and were hard to push. the further north I went the worse it got it would stall at lights and idol fast and slow, but seemed fine on the highway. In virginia I changed the plugs cap rotor and PVC valve. No change, i raised the idol a little so it would run at stop lights. And headed back to Florida. Another damp trip, but the truck seemed to run better the further south I got. Any ideas of what may have caused this. It still seems tempermental but is running a little better. The truck is old with over 200,000 miles on it but up until now the only trouble i've had is a fuel pump and tires. Also i noticed alot of carbon (black powder around the mouth of the intake can this be cleaned out like a regular carb (spray gunk) and is there anything else I can changeout during a tune up? THanks
  • My 2000 Blazer acts as if it "misses" a little, too, when I run the A/C. It runs just fine if I shut it off.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Okay, first off, not carb cleaner, but throttle body cleaner. Something different in the chemistry.

    Second, check the vacuum line coming from the intake manifold over to the vacuum resevoir. Would be in the area around the brake booster.
  • nmurielnmuriel Posts: 4
    While we haven't had really hot weather here were I am forced to run my air conditionaire on max, I am hoping the issue is fixed. We had to replace the fuel pump a while back, and I am just wondering if that was causing my issues.
    Keep in mind this ONLY happens when the weather is in the 90's and I have the air on MAX. Disconnecting the battery and waiting 10 minutes clears everything up. We have been advised to replace the O2 senors but that can get expensive if you have to do that every year.
    The reason I thing the fuel pump might have been the culprit is my daughter has a 1999 Cavalair and always had problems with the TAC jumping and stalling for no reason. Had the engine replaced at 60,000 with the same issues. The vehicle finally would go no more after about another 60,000 or so and we ended up changing the fuel pump, and knock on wood it runs fine now.
    In the Balazer's case the fuel pump just up and quit in my daughters case it never quit just kept jerking and stalling a lot.
    Will keep everyone in formed if the fuel pump fixes my problem as well. :blush:
  • I have a 2001 Jimmy GMC and some days my truck will start and some days it won't I have put it on a computer and it's not reading any problems. I have changed the rotor,distri.cap I have reset the computer,and they say nothing's wrong with my fuel pump it's giving the right reading could anyone help me with this problem and when this started it's hard to put it in gear please help me anybody
  • spck68spck68 Posts: 1
    my blazer wont start unless i spray carb cleaner in the carb.i've read that u need 60 psi to start but mine only has 50 to 55 key on engine off.it has a new fuel filter so dose that mean i just need to replace the pump? btw once i get it started it runs fine and useully will start again but not after sitting all night.plz help
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Sounds more like a leaking fuel spider assembly. 55 psi is probably enough to get it going, and not likely to increase once started. If the fuel pump were bad, it wouldn't want to keep running.

    You said this is a '97 model. You shouldn't be spraying carb cleaner into it as there are components that can be harmed. You might try taking the MAF out and cleaning it with an approved cleaner. The throttle body can be cleaned, but should be done with throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    I agree with the other post either the spider or the fuelpressure regulator. Its not a hard job to do only took me 45 minutes, just make sure the bolts go back into the right location.
  • kingusa95kingusa95 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 blazer that will not start. It will turn over but not start up. I am getting a fuel pressure of 45, i do not know what it should be at. I am thinking my fuel pump is bad. I replaced one about 3 years ago. Anyone have a suggestion?
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Posts: 16
    The problem is the fuel pressure regulator. the pressure should be 55-60. even 45 is too low. hope this helps.
  • kingusa95kingusa95 Posts: 2
    thanks for the info. where is the pressure regulator? is it easy to change?
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    About a year ago I noticed a problem with my 97 chevy blazer. The check gages light was coming on every now and then and sometimes it would cut off while I was at a light or stop sign. Then one day after I had driven the car all day, I came home and parked for about an hour. When I went to start the car it acted as if it wanted to start but did'nt. Six months prior to this I had gotten a new fuel pump, radiator, battery, and the spider and fuel valves changed. The fuel pump was from auto zone. The vechile has been sitting up for maybe a year and a half and I miss my truck. I did not have the money to get it fixed being that five to six months prior to the break down I had spent around $1,000.00 to get those things that I mentioned fixed. Can someone please help me try to figure out what is wrong? Any suggestions would help. I miss my truck!
  • I would try the crank positioning sensor.
  • yruffinyruffin Posts: 2
    Where is it located and about how much does it cost for the sensor?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The crank sensor is at 7 o'clock position when looking at the crankshaft pulley. It has two wires going to it, and takes about 5 minutes to change. That's the good news.

    The bad news is that it costs 60-70 bucks! I have seen CPS failure occur two different ways. One is just driving along and boom, engine dies. If you try and restart, no-worky, but if you turn the key to off, wait a few seconds, then try to start the car it will fire right up. The other failure mode I have seen is an engine shutdown at high RPM, and coming back online when the speed slows down, sort of like hitting a governor. The intermittent failure may or may not set a code. The high RPM failure will only set a code if it occurs three times within an operating cycle. That means you start the car and get it to occur three times before turning the car off.

    I would suggest getting someone with a code reader to check for stored codes. You can spend a lot of money on sensors before you hit the right one.
  • I have a 99 blazer that when I get to a stop and try and go it stalls, starts right up until I stop again. I have changed the fuel filter, sparkplugs and wires, did a diagnostic test and gas pressure, everything is fine. It has good get up and go, smooth drive until we stop and press the gas and it stalls. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    That is s symptom of a bad TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid.

    In plain English, the TCC solenoid locks up the torque converter in the transmission to give you better gas milage. The lock-up must occur when the engine is fully warmed up and at higher cruising speeds or stalling will occur. The TCC has a wiring connector in plain view and can be disconnected. The car can be driven with the TCC disconnected without causing any problems besides a little higher fuel consumption. Drive the car with the TCC disconected for a few days and if the stalling problem disappears, viola, the problem is located.
  • The engin seems to stall more when gas gauge reads 1/4 or less, but fuelpump was tested and it was good. Where is the TCC wiring located?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Does the engine pick up at all when you step on the throttle? A "bad spot" in the throttle position sensor, or the wires to it, can cause this. If the stall doesn't occur until the vehicle starts to move, and with 1/4 tank or less, I would wonder about the fuel pickup. Tested when sitting still, the pump would show correct pressure, but when you move, the gas will move in the tank and could cause a damaged/mis-positioned fuel pickup to suck air. If you can restart the car and drive away with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the case.

    Get the computer scanned (Autozone is one that will check) and see if you have any codes. There are a couple of sensors that could cause this, but they should throw codes. Idle air control solenoid, TPS, CPS (intermittent).
  • I have a 2001 4.2l Chev Blazer bought in from Japan @12000ks[7.5mls] and have had bad bad problems with starting like it wants to start but hydraulics and splutters. It has cost me in excess of $3000 and a new starter motor in fixit charges and eventually found the sensor on crankshaft replaced seemed to cure it. Some months later it refused to start again same symptoms..tow truck to GM agent and top thingy like a distributor replaced. Eventually diagnosed that the sensor on crankshaft MUST be set by GM dealer otherwise the problem will recure. At the same time get the factory transmission upgrade. Good luck. John in Greymouth New Zealand
  • have changed fuel pump thinking that was the problem but found out that i have no spark. checked into it a little more and have no juice going to 5 fuses in the fuse box. checked fusable links (5 of them on drivers side and one at battery) and are good. could this be ignition switch or computer?
  • :sick: hey guys,
    I have a 00 Blazer again with the 4.3L w/ 125k mi. Been having problems with starting it. Seems like its not getting fuel. I shoot a little cleaner into the throttle body in order to get it to start but that dosen't always work. I've checked the fuel pressure at the rail and its sitting at 65 with the key on. Its slowely geting worse as the days go on. I talked to a mechanic and he said it might be the spider injector or the regulator. I do a lot of my own work but never got into the engine itself. Anyone had this problem before and know how to fix it? The mechanic told me if its the injectors it'll run about $450. Is this something I can do in my driveway? and what it would cost? :sick: :lemon:
  • I have had that problem with my 98 jimmy and it was the fuel pressure regulator, If I were you I would do the whole assembly. The job is nothing at all. basic tools. Look on this site to find instructions, it is easy trust me.
  • any idea what the parts cost?
  • My blazer died and won't restart. I've tested fuel,it's ok. I've replaced the coil,dist.cap and rotor button,and the shaft sensor; now all it is doing is blowing the ECM fuse every time I turn the switch on. Please help!
  • i have a 2002 chevy blazer 4wd. i start it up it fires and dies. the problem is intermittent. it happens every 2 weeks or so and after several attempts it will be fine and drive.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    This could be a real stretch but I had a similar problem where I had trouble getting the truck to start every few days where I had to turn the key a couple times, then would stutter when first going, a couple times just stalled out. Drove myself nuts with hoses, fuel pressure etc.

    Had a rusted battery terminal screw. It was being shaken when driving, caused the battery not to charge properly when driving. An easy test is to jiggle each wire separately(obviously do not create a connection with yourself and the car). You will hear the power go on and off.

    Again probably not it but was listed as one of the first things to check and I ignored it because had one of those duralast batteries
  • chad21chad21 Posts: 2
    Hey guys, my blazer died and wont restart. I smell gas after 2 turn-overs,but cant find any spark from the coil. also every time I turn the switch, my ECM/Batt fuse blows. Any ideas?
  • I think it might be the crank position sensor which is located on the front of the engine near the harmonic balancer and main pully. Try this first, its cheap! 20 dolars if that. if that will not work then its the ecm, it being bad will send mixed signals. But i would try the crank position sensor first.
  • I need to keep this truck running but every time it gets hot, it stalls out. Unless you have your foot on the gas and the idle high, it will stall out every time. Does not
    do it when its cold . I have had a new motor put in , rebuilt carb (for high altitude)
    new fuel pump and water pump. Truck should run great......does for about 10 minutes and then it stalls. Any suggestions
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    New coil? You are describing a very typical coil failure, and I doubt the new engine came with one.
  • Yes sir, we put new coil, plugs, wires, I am wondering about the EFE relay switch, mounting on the firewall, it was buzzing ??? so I ordered another switch, when it comes in I will install it. Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Relays can fail in a number of ways. Check the voltage going to the coil of the relay. If it is below the rated voltage (typically 12VDC on a car) the coil cannot fully engage the relay contacts and you will get the buzzing you describe. Usually the coil just fails, but I have seen cases where some of the windings will short and also cause the "buzzing" sound.
  • I will check that once the switch gets here. Thanks and I will let you know !
  • I have a 1992 chevy pickup with a 4.3 v6. When i crank it i have to throttle the gas to keep it running. If i unplug the map sensor it will run at a high idle. I have tested the map sensor and it tests fine, i have even replaced it but that didn't work. I have replaced the ECM, IAC,TPS,EGR valve, fuel filter. I have cleaned the throttle body. I have checked the vacuum lines, distributor, wires and plugs. The vacuum selinoid works fine and the spark control module works fine.I had a diagnostic tool run on it but no codes. I have ohmed out the wiring and found no breaks. Can anyone give me some ideas on what this problem can be? Please help!!!
  • I have a 95 chevy blazer automatic with a 4.3 vortex. When I drive it the RPMs jump around and then it stalls out if I hit the brakes. Does anyone have any Ideas of what may be wrong?
  • I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM AS TO WHERE MY 4.3 WOULD IDLE HIGH THEN DROP TO ALMOST STALLING IT WAS MY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR JUST A CHANCE .
  • I JUST CHANGED MY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TODAY IT IS MOUNTED ON THE BACK OF THE SPIDER JET , THE SPIDER JET IS UNDER THE PLENUM INTAKE WHICH IS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE THE ALUMINUM INTAKE ITS A FAIRLY EASY JOB JUST REMEMBER THE PLENUM INTAKE IS PLASTIC WHEN YOU START TO TIGHTEN YOUR BOLTS BACK DOWN IF YOU NEED ANY HELP FEEL FREE TO ASK ME I JUST DID THIS JOB TODAY IT IS TIME CONSUMING DUE TO ALOT OF THINGS TO REMOVE ,JUST TAKE YOUR TIME , BE SURE TO GET YOUR PLENUM GASKET SET BEFORE HAND AND WHILE WORKING ON REPLACING FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR COVER YOUR INTAKE PORTS WITH RAGS SO NOT TO DROP ANY -PARTS INTO THE CHAMBERS
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I recommend against using ALL CAPS when posting a message in our Forums. People tend to skip past messages written in ALL CAPS because they find them hard to read.

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    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Our 97 Blazer has an intermittent starting problem. The car has a new fuel pump (60PSI) and filter, good plugs, wires and spark when the problem occurs. I have pulled the plugs and found them wet and you can smell fuel when the problem occurs. When the car sits for longer than day and especially when its wet, it won't start. It has spark and fuel it seems as if the timing maybe off and not firing at the proper time. There never has been any back fire to indicate bad timing, it doesn't even try to fire. I have cleaned the plugs when they are wet and put them back in and still no start. The last time this happened I tried cranking for long periods and short periods. In doing so I found that if I did not turn the key all the way to off it would hit on the next attempt. Doing this (going from start to run and back to start) the car did finally start, but the engine raced at about 2500 rpm. I shut it off and started it again a few times and it finally came back to a normal idle. Anyone ever have this type of problem and knows where to look?
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