Chevy Blazer Starting and Stalling Problems



  • JnavarreteJnavarrete Member Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    I had this problem before and changed the old battery for a new one last year, but the problem re-surfaced now that we are reaching the constant below -5 Celsius. So, the problem is as follow.

    I having problem to start the car, but the rare thing is that only happens when I'm using the key to start the car, it always start without a problem with the remote starter. For instance today while leaving home I notice that it was snowing a bit so I remote started the car so it'll warm up a bit, I got in the car, disconnect the remote starter and tried the key, it gave me problem, it was like it was about to start but it didn't. I remote started the car again, wait like a minute and then tried the key again and it started this time. I have asked the car to be checked twice last year for the same problem but always I was told that everything was ok, starter, battery and so on.

    Is there anything that it's by-passed when you remote start the car but is essential to start the car with the key?

  • tar99tar99 Member Posts: 7
    I'm having a similar problem with my 97. THe fuel pump solution is pushed by the local mechanic, however, I'm thinking he's got his pocketbook more in mind than my truck.

    The fuel pump sends the fuel down the line @ 60 psi, but then the pressure slacks off immediately following. I have to crank for about 6-7 seconds to start. However, if it has a full tank, and I turn the key all the way to start immediately there is wait and it catches right away.

    My thought is there is a minute hole in the line somewhere that is causing the unit to lose prime.

    does this sound reasonable? The fellow I spoke with wants $1000 to replace the fuel pump (this is in Canada) and I'm not too keen on that. I don't think it will solve the problem as indicated in some of these earlier posts.

    What do you guys think?
  • srsmkalotsrsmkalot Member Posts: 2
    seems the problem with my blazer was wireing! the underneath is pretty rusty so all off my grounds were deteriorating! i also had some wireing burn up in the glovebox behind the three relays. my mechanic has about 20 hours in troubleshooting and fixing and said it is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]! hopefully this helps u a little and good luck
  • tar99tar99 Member Posts: 7
    The engineers at work (on board a ship) think it may have to do with the fuel pressure regulator, or one of the sensors.

    The electrical on this truck is pretty good, but I'm slowly eliminating things with the multimeter.

    20 hours trouble shooting?
  • heartattack831heartattack831 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 blazer that will run for a few minutes sitting in the driveway but will stall out after a few minutes. But if you drive it around the block it will stay running occasionally you can drive it a for a few miles then it will stall and not start for a couple hours. anyone have any idea what it could be.
  • bnjcookbnjcook Member Posts: 1

    Did you ever get this solved? Mines doing the EXACT same thing...


  • tlmarttlmart Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Chevy blazer that did the same thing. It was the coil and not expensive and easy to install. Also check the wires to your battery, they get caught under battery and cuts in half, that too happened to my blazer. Hope this helps.
  • cl02062010cl02062010 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    for the love of christ people, if your check engine light is blinking, park your vehicle and call a tow truck. when the check engine light comes on steady, it means there is something wrong that is emissions related (malfunction of or detected by one or more of any of the sensors on the engine, intake, evap system, or exhaust). when the check engine light comes on blinking, it means your vehicle is going into melt down and needs to be shut off and left shut off until filxed.

    now for your issue, if you have the 4.3 liter vortec cpi, there is a big problem with the fuel pressure regulator leaking into bank 1 in the intake manifold causing all of bank 1 (the driver's side 3 cylinders) to randomly misfire. it will foul your o2 sensor and cause severe damage to your catalytic converter which can ultimately cause severe damage to your engine (excessive back pressure). i had one of these blazers in high school and every other year we had to replace the cat and bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor and we couldn't figure out why til i started taring apart the intake and found a puddle of gasoline in the bank 1 side of he manifold (these things have a two piece intake manifold). i later found out when i started working in a shop that there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on the fuel pressure regulator that describes the symptoms that i experienced and furthermore some of the symptoms that you listed that you are having difficulties with. hope that helps. good luck.
  • punshkapunshka Member Posts: 20
    I'm not sure if you've already fixed this problem, but we wanted to through this out there at you anyways. Check your EGR valve, that maybe your problem. Let me know.
  • punshkapunshka Member Posts: 20
    We checked to make sure that it was tight and it is. As of right now, my engine is some what knocking, which it sounds like its coming from the top end. We can drive the truck for a couple of miles, then it starts jumping and just cuts off. Is the harmonic balancer supposed to move at all? Right now, ours can move just a hair. With a crank sensor, having a bad main bearing, would this cause the truck to do what it's doing? Thanks for your reply to the previous statements.
  • tar99tar99 Member Posts: 7
    this may help . . .

    I checked on another forum and apparently it can be an issue with your fuel pressure regulator, or the the hoses running from the fuel meter body to the poppet nozzles on the injectors inside the intake plenum. My mechanic says he can probably rebuild mine with the parts from a V8 spider (that's what they call the whole thing) that he has. It could be just the fuel pressure regulator - try turning it on until the pump quits, off, then on until the pump quits, off, and then turn the key right to start - it starts after one crank every time when I've done that. Apparently it's 5 hours work in the book to do the job, plus parts, so for now I'm turning that key off and on a lot.

    hope it helps.
  • nljewellnljewell Member Posts: 21
    I have a 99 Jimmy, wouldn't start so I pulled the starter off, had started checked and that wasn't the problem. Tested fuel pressure and it is about 55 with key on, sprayed started fluid and it started for a little bit so I know its not a spark issue. Is the fuel pressure regulator my best bet if I have good pressure on the test port but not getting any fuel into engine? And if it is the regulator is it located underneath the plenum? Any responses would be great.
  • tar99tar99 Member Posts: 7
    if the fuel pressure is staying the same, I don't think so. I've seen also guys who've had the lines from the fuel meter body to the poppet nozzles go bad which they said affected starting.

    But yes, the regulator is part of the spider under the plenum.
  • gibboneybgibboneyb Member Posts: 3
    Hi I have a 97 Jimmy and I just put a new alternator, battery, fuel pump into the truck. Its having trouble firing up in cold weather. It gets to the point where it starts hiccuping like its about to fire up but then stops... It starts in warmer weather and if I do get it started it takes a bit for me to get going when i step on the gas. Could someone help me???
  • mcraepiadmcraepiad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Blazer that runs great until it gets hot going down the road. Then it seems to stall and shuts down and then once it gets cold, it starts right back up with no problem. It has new computer, new fuel pump, battery, and loads of sensors. I'm now at a loss.
  • yungbkfreshyungbkfresh Member Posts: 1
    ok long story short ... my 98 blazer will not stay started i have changed may parts in the engine. so here is the issue i have now .. the car runs when u put gas in the throttle body for about 10 to 15 mins. then it stalls out and will not start again.. it has a new fuel pump and filter and throttle body position sensor. i need help im losing my mind me and mymechinic are at a lose for words .. help asap
  • lpzlpz Member Posts: 3
    2002 Chevy Blazer-I had the intermittent starting problem (see #270 & #347) for a couple of years. Car would start then stall right away. Never could tell when it would happen. Maybe the first start of the day or maybe later during another start. Have to hold the accelerator for about 10 minutes until the car decided to run on it's own. No computer codes and no one could figure it out unless it happened in the shops - never did. Many trial and error repairs. The time before last I was assured the worn distributor wires were the cause. It wasn't. The last time the IAC (Idle Air Control) was replaced and I haven't had the problem for the last year.
  • elsie646elsie646 Member Posts: 2
    That is exactly what mine is doing [2001 Blazer]. I was told by a mechanic it was the crankshaft sensor...don't know if that is right, haven't tried it yet. Post if you get a fix for it. Have already tried replacing things, don't want to waste money on trial and error.
  • reggiebmtreggiebmt Member Posts: 1
    So I have had my 2000 Chevy blazer for almost 6 years now and haven't had too major of issues with it. However, a just started having issues with it starting. The engine does not turn over completely to start but will crank. I had my car jumped and it started right away. I brought it into a local shop and the battery was indeed shot. I replaced the battery and it ran fine for about 16 hours (drove to a few local places and then parked it at work for 6 hours). When I went to leave work this evening, the engine was again not turning over. I turned the key to off and let it sit for about 30 seconds and did it again and the engine barely turned over to start it. It puttered into a running engine. I then went to reverse and pull out of the parking spot and the car would not respond to my pressing the accelerator. After a few seconds i responded and backed up. I put it in drive and same thing again, no response for an initial few seconds. This really scares me!!! I commute a long distance to work! Please help!!!!
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The electrical system may have an excessive "parasitic battery drain". All modern cars have that because of alarms, relays, clocks, electronic engine management components, radios, etc. . I had a similar situation when I found my battery completely dead one morning after my S10 Blazer sat for four days without being started and driven. In that case, it was a shorted power door lock relay but that was obvious because the power door locks would not function. Another common cause it leaving the instrument lights/dome light/courtesy lights on. Be sure it is cut off at the instrument panel dimmer/on/off switch. It is easy to leave those lights on in bright daylight.

    Normal parasitic battery drain is usually less than 8 ma. A good shop can test the system at the battery posts to see if there is excessive battery drain when the engine is not running. Excessive would be more than 20 ma.
  • blazertommyblazertommy Member Posts: 1
    I think you should try the ignition coil. that I bet will fix your problem
  • fireguy102fireguy102 Member Posts: 1
    About a month +1 week ago, my blazer started stalling after driving around for a while. It would take a five minute or so of cool down before starting back up and run for about 15 minutes before repeating the stalling and non-start. This happened on my way to work, so I brought it to a local garage that I use for things i don't want to do or have time to do. He checked the fuel pressure, the coil, and the icm, and none of those seem to be causing the problem. We left it there overnight as he ran out of time, and when he went back the next day to it, It ran just fine. It was running fine since until monday, when it stalled on me on my way home. It took 15 minutes before it would restart. I was a ways away from home so I had it towed to the garage, but by the time the mechanic got to it, it wouldn't stall at all. When it starts acting up, I can feather the gas and it will be ok, but when I go to step on it, it bogs down as if it is fuel starved. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited June 2011
    That has all the symptoms of a bad fuel injectior pressure regulator. The pressure regulator costs from $70 to $100. It is located unter the upper plastic intake plenum.
  • cliffy3cliffy3 Member Posts: 3
    I have had the same problem
    Come to find out chevy never installed a GROUND wire/cable to the frame
    as the truck age the 27 ground straps chevy has begin to decay and the only ground path the rear lights can find is the internal ground in the fuel pump(question have you been having problems with the rear lights ,the brake system lighting is attched to the fuel pump )
    a simple check/cure
    Attach a jumper cable from the NEGATIVE side of the battery to the frame
    Then step on the brakes once Then start your vehicle
    ALL 88 and newer chevy wireing systems incorperate an emergency shut down to the fuel system
    IF your oil preasure sending unit (located near the base of the distributer) is faulty it cuts power to the fuel pump
    if you loose ground the brake light interaction with the fuel pump will not allow the proper voltage to the fuel pump
  • cliffy3cliffy3 Member Posts: 3
    intermittent BAD GROUND
    Hook a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to the frame
    alternate problem low oil preasure or faulty oil/fuel preasure sending unit ( oil preasuer/fuel preasure sensor ) gauge sending unit (next to base of distributer )
  • dodgertodddodgertodd Member Posts: 2
    Mine is doing the same thing. Did you ever figure it out?
  • dodgertodddodgertodd Member Posts: 2
    I have had this exact same problem. A year-and-a-half ago I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, then three months later the idle air valve and the catalytic converter, and now it's losing power and dying on me again, the check engine light is on, and the only code points to the cat or O2 sensors.

    I have got all repairs done at the local Chevy dealership. I have hoped that they would be familiar with things like this. Guess not. Can you show me where I can find that technical service bulletin?

    Brother, I owe you a steak. You've solved a frustrating mystery for me.
  • maxisp2000maxisp2000 Member Posts: 1
    1996 Chevy S10 Blazer 4X4

    First of all I am not a mechanic, so I hope I can help.

    This is what I think about the hot stalling problem. If you have checked fuel pressure and it's good, the fuel pump is probably OK. Then check the fuel pump relay, when you turn the key to "on" not start, the fuel pump will run for a couple of seconds. Someone else might have to turn the key to hear it. My intake manifold popped so I had to take off the whole top of the engine. While there I replaced the fuel regulator under the intake manifold plenum.

    Last year when this started, I was driving on the first hot day and the car wouldn’t start at the store. So I got a rag and wet it and cooled down the ICM. The car started, so I bought a replacement. After the ICM replacement I was able to drive to Tucson and back during 110° days both ways.

    The after I got home, it would not start again after going to the store. I got stuck and had to be towed home, where it started fine again.

    So this year after the car stalled so I did this:
    I got an old scrap heat sink from something. I trimmed it to the same size as the original. Using the original holes as a template I drilled matching holes in the scrap heat sink. Using new long bolts and nuts I assembled ICM/silver paste/stock heat sink facing out/silver paste/scrap heat sink facing out the other way/U bracket.

    Using a piece of aluminum sheet, I made a "serif" U bracket that matched the coil mount bracket and mounted the assembly on the old bracket. The silver paste is used to thermally connect a CPU or chip to a heat sink.
    I have a thought about hot fuel.

    The fuel runs on a loop from the tank to the injector, demand opens the fuel regulator, and unused fuel goes back into the tank.

    I bought a scan tool that connects to my laptop and watched it while driving around. On an 80° day the intake air temp was 185°!!! The tool only went to 140°.

    So I checked the airbox, under the air filter. The snoot coming out of there was not getting any fresh air, it was only ½ from the front wall with no vent holes, so I removed the snoot. The temperature dropped to 100° and the car has not failed since on three 110° days. I did not modify the airbox. I also keep the tank mostly full to cool the fuel pump (that’s why it’s in the tank).

    **So I thought that the fuel in the tank was getting heated by the engine, returned hot fuel right next to the fuel pump causing the pump to go too low (overheating). The hot air caused a super vapor lock. So I put a fiberglass shield under the fuel line on the engine.**

    Car starts now.
  • elchaidelchaid Member Posts: 1
    Hi,i think your problem lies inside your engine, more specificly, your fuel pressure regulator, and or spider,(fuel injectors).,They re inside the intake manifold.
  • cspeakscspeaks Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 chevy Blazer. I have the exact same problems. When it is hot outside, like it is now, the car will run fine until you come to a light or stop.
    Then it will stall and stop. You then have to put it in park and restart it. It will run a few feet and stall again. You have to pull over and let the car sit untill it cools off. This happened to me 3 times today. I just had the radiator replaced as well, because it suddenly started running hot and and the radiator had a crack in it. Also the abs and brake lights will come on and the fuel gauge will read wrong.
    One minute it says it has half a tank and minutes later it reads empty. You have to just know how much gas you have put in. This is VERY frustrating and it appears there is no sure answer. This car is terrible
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited July 2011
    A failing Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the distributor can have the exact symptoms. A cheap or defective ICM can fail when it gets hot and then it will start normally when it cools. I suggest that you replace the ICM with a new AC Delco ICM or a Standard Motor Products ICM and use Arctic Silver #5 heat sink compound rather than the high temperature silicone grease that comes with the modules. AC Delco (GM) and SMP are the most dependable ICM and they are also the most expensive....go figure. Due to the bankruptcy, GM spun off their AC Delco Parts Division and now I am becoming wary of using any ACDelco products..

    Unfortunately, the 1987 - 2002 S10/S15 trucks and Blazers are delicate and are "high maintenance" vehicles. They do not respond well to most cheap off-shore replacement parts. However, I installed Denso TT double platinum spark plugs in my 1991 S10 Blazer. The Denso spark plugs are made in Japan and IMO, are much better than the ACDelco Rapid Fire single platinum spark plugs that are made in Mexico and Denso TT spark plugs cost half as much as AC Delco Rapid Fire spark plugs. The new ACDelco Rapid Fire spark plugs have recently been redesigned and now appear to be a two dollar spark plug in a three dollar box.

    The logo has been changed from AC Delco owned by GM to ACDelco, owned by whoever, with no space between the AC and Delco.
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    My 1988 s10 blazer did exactly this, Stall, cool down, and start back up.
    I tried everything, even the fuel pump. Still wasn't a fix, traded it in for another 1998 s10 blazer.
    Then about in 2004 I bought a 2002 ZR2 blazer and what takes place at 118K?
    $500.00 Fuel Pump!
    I had it replaced, and then only at 123k, This stalling issue arises.
    What do ya know?!?!
    I'm back to the 1988 Blazer issue. Wow! It seems that GM and Chevrolet haven't fixed this issue. Hmm, I wonder why? Maybe because they seen this "issue" as a Cash Cow?
    I would have to think so. Being that so many of us experience the SAME STALLING for no apparent reason. Hmm, I wonder why they pushed for their "Owner Loyalty" program so much? Do you think that it could be that so many of us are still having 2 and 3 decade old issues with our GM made vehicles, that they would have to get us buying another GM product by giving us a discount?
    I would have to say so!
    Google yourself this issue with any model year s10 and you'll read the same stalling.
    No sure fix yet.
    I've been a Chevy man all of my life!
    Until Now!
    Next vehicle.....FORD!
    There is NO Way on this planet that I'll pay for a Hummer H3, which is a FAT ZR2, totally based on the blazer zr2 and for 10k more.

    Now I understand why GM scrapped the entire s10 line.
    And I also understand why such a large company went under.
    Way to go GM, Just change the names and keep selling the same cheap products.
    Cavalier = Cobalt
    Blazer ZR2 = Hummer H3
    Blazer LS = HHR
    LOL, seriously now!
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    What was wrong with your Blazer? Mine is doing the same thing and the mechanic is having a hard time fixing it!
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    Its the fuel pump!
    After changing all of this:
    Ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, ignition module, sparkplugs, cables.
    After changing all of them, it still would stall.
    Then soon after I changed the plugs, it got so bad, it wouldn't even start.
    Even after sitting.
    Now remember this part. Everybody seemed like an expert.
    Do not but the cheaper types of fuel pumps. Because the one that I have to replace now, only got me to 10 months!
    This is the 3rd fuel pump. I'm saving up the $399.00 to but the original AC Delco.
    Everything else is JUNK! Do not waste your money on the cheaper brands.
    I was also told that the cam sensors are really problematic on the entire lines of ALL GM cars. Right now it's not the issue, but I will have it changed out asap.
    Have you checked the fuel pressure?
    That will tell you without a doubt that it is the pump.
    When it stalls, check the pressure on the fuel line valve that's right behind the fuel intake. It is like a valve on your tire, but made of metal.
    Stick a tip of a pen in there after it stalls. If the gass shoots out? Its not the pump.
    But if it doesn't shoot out? It's definitely your pump!
    There should be enough pressure to spray out like a bat out of hell. Mine just basically spurted out, and after that, no preasure at all.
    Write back on here if you find the culprit.
    I will say this, i'll never buy another GM 4 or 6 banger.
    GM built them to fail, that's why GM and ac delco used to be one in the same.
    To make money from their junk cars!
    Look it up as I did, and learn.
    A heart warming story of a massive company that got greedy and lost customers because of their cheap products.
    This is why they needed the bail out money.
    Massive Loss of car sales and customer loyalty.
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    Typo: fuel intake was supposed to be air intake.
  • rvsmichael1rvsmichael1 Member Posts: 1
    The ignition control Moduel if its a 95 depending on if the sparkplugs come out the side of distributor or the top if its the top like mine take two screws off distibutor cap remove two screws on icm and change it for about 40 bucks make sure you put the temp grease on it before you install it . these get hot and cutr off the distributor from sending a charge to the plug to spark in the cylinder. so long story short change your icm it fixed mine . try it
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    The mechanic who changed to rotor tested the fuel pump and it is passed the pressure test. Also, changing the rotor did not help. Next, we changed to Idle Air Control valve and it ran fine for about 1 week and now it is stalling periodically again. I noticed that if it is not too hot outside it does not stall as much. My next "guess" is the ignition module getting hot and shutting her down. I am going to change the coil and the module and see what happens next. I will repost soon with an update.

    Sorry you had trouble with the fuel pump! That's an expensive fix!
  • jmddn41jmddn41 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 92 Full size fuel injected Chevy Blazer. Usually runs strong but every now and them it won't start, then i'll give it about an hour and its ok. The engine turns over fine, but gets weaker and weaker everytime. I know its no the battery because Ive tried jumping it and even replacing the battery. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Joethe the
  • whalewangwhalewang Member Posts: 1
    My '95 Blazer stalls periodically when pressing the gas from a stop (stop light or after starting). It usually runs for maybe 30 minutes and then stall at a stop light when I lightly accelerate from the stop. Sometimes it won't stall on a short trip. It's fairly intermittent.
    After it stalls it will never immediately restart. I have to wait ~10 minutes and then it starts every time. It runs great other than the stalling.
    I also have an EGR code being thrown so I cleaned it and replaced the seal. The code is still being thrown but I don't think it's related.
    At this point I started looking at the fuel system.

    Hooked up a pressure gauge:
    turned the key to ACC: ~60psi
    Start the engine: 60psi but then goes down to about 54psi
    Stop the engine and wait 5 min: ~52 psi

    At this point I assume the Fuel regulator is good.

    I left the fuel pressure gauge hooked up and went for a drive. It stalled in a parking lot. The pressure was around 40psi. I then relieved the pressure to zero psi.
    With the key to ACC: zero psi
    cranked the engine: still zero psi.
    Waited ~10 minutes and put the key to ACC: ~60psi (then and cranked and started the engine -- it ran fine)

    The fuel relay is good (it supplies power to the pump but the pump does not engage).
    Since the pump is being powered but does not turn on it has to be a faulty fuel pump correct?
  • s10junkowners10junkowner Member Posts: 10
    Well, to be honest, i changed the coil pack and module.
    No differance, and shortly after changing the cap and rotor, it would not start.
    So, after all of the other changes, a guy at checker said that the cam shaft sensors are terrible in all 4 and 6 banger gm's.
    I never changed that....yet.
    I then decided to check gas pressure, i can hear the pump charge sometimes, but not all.
    So i figure its the fuel pump.
    If i change the fuel pump, and it still doesn't run or start, i'm giving up and selling as a parts car. I've just had it with GM-Chevy.
    At this point, i'm already saying-"Never again in my life will i spend another dime on GM-Government Motors.
    Next truck will definitely be a ford f350.
    I'm tired of dealing with garbage.
    This Blazer ZR2 hasn't even hit 10 years, and it just hit 121,000 miles and has been babied.
    My 88 s10 was built like a tank when compared to this piece of junk.
    I even beat the hell out of it as if was my first 4x4.
    The $40.00 fuel pump made it to 164,000 miles.
    This $400.00 fuel pump, original, didn't make it to 120,000.
    GM should be JM and stand for Junk Motors, as far as i am concerned!
    But, never again.
    FORD, here i come!
  • meandmyself34meandmyself34 Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same issue with it starting and i can drive it but when i stop it stalls but i can start it right up if i put my foot on the gas pedal just a little bit.. but i really have to gun it to keep it started. but when i drive it and stop or even slow down to turn a corner the dang thing just stops.. i have never had this much problems with a truck or even a car in my life.. my blazer is at 189,000 miles on it and i have gone threw 3 fuel pumps.. but the first two times it never acted like it is this time.. but the first two was not cheap fuel pump this last one was.. it wouldnt such a headache if i had a great job and can afford to replace this crap ever 6 to 10 months..i really hate cheves now.. and i have replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap.. because that was one code that keep coming up. and now after that the other code that came up was my map but took that off to see if it was dirty or even clogged and it looks like its new.. and i have checked to make sure the wires on it was not broke or damaged and they look fine.. so i am starting to give up but cant right yet because cant afford a new damn car.. grrrrrrrrr
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Mine ended up being the idle air control valve. It was covered with sooty carbon. Also, after changing it, the blazer ran better but would stall maybe once a day (instead of every time I slowed down). I had to take it in to have the throttle body cleaned. I just got it back and it seems to be running ok, I just hope it continues to run ok.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Well, not only was it the IAC valve, but it appears the alternator is not fully charging under a heavy load.I get one thing fixed and another thing goes out!!! I hope you figure yours out and I hope you can get it fixed.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    What ever happened with your blazer? I have an 01 and it runs fine until I turn on the AC and it bogs down and will stall when I slow down to turn. It does not do this when the AC is off. I have had this blazer for about 8 years and it has been fine until this long hot summer in georgia.
  • nmurielnmuriel Member Posts: 4
    Never did get a fix for the blazer, just made sure we didn't run the air on the high or max on really hot days. The fuel pump went out in 08 and we replaced it, didn't have a problem with the stalling anymore. Wonder if there is a correlation between the two.
    I do know my daughter had a gm product (sorry don't remember what it was) and hers always stalled and fluttered but under warranty the dealership never found anything wrong with it. It was a 2001 also, a smaller car. After my husband tried replacing everything electrical, once it was out of warranty, and it still didn't fix it we sent to have it repaired, which they didn't fix the first time either When it stranded her on the express way, a few days later, and we called the guy he claims we didn't tell him it was stalling, they replaced the fuel pump and it was fine. Might want to see if someone can check your fuel pump, while it is working, it might not be working at full capacity, and maybe with the hot weather is creating a vapor lock of sorts. Just and idea no science or exact cause behind it, just sort of odd that after the fuel pump is fixed the other problem went away as well.
  • blazerneedshlpblazerneedshlp Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 chevy blazer, has had problems starting the last few weeks, it would just click and then eventually start fine. Then today died at stop lights while driving, made it home, and replaced battery and alternator. Started car and noticed when ac pump would turn on, battery gauge would drop below 14. When in drive with foot on break even lower reading. I tried to use power seat, and gauge dropped to like 9 (not looking good). Don't think the battery or alternator was even the problem at this point. Please help.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Well, got the wires, distributor cap, thermostat, and cam sensor changed. It is not going dead anymore! YAY!! However, now if I am on a dirt road behind a car, IT TAKES OFF!!! I barely touch the peddle and the RPM's shoot up and the blazer takes off like I have the peddle pushed to floor. It only happens when I am riding on a dirt road and the dust is kicked up. It is fine on the highway.
  • dgarrett13dgarrett13 Member Posts: 13
    Well, it seems that one of the mechanics turned some screw that would make the blazer take of if I barely touched and let off the gas peddle. It would go up to 30 mph without me touching the peddle. Well, the screw was adjusted and now I am BACK TO SQUARE ONE!!! It is going dead when I make a hard stop and turn. I know it has to do with the idle somehow. This last mechanic told me that the Idle Air Control that we just put in may be bad. It is slow to respond thus causing the idle rpm's to drop. I hope it is just a bad part. Going to get and AC Delco instead of an Autozone part. Wish me luck! Anybody else having this weird problem?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited September 2011
    The IAC valve seldom fails and it may just need cleaning. Remove and clean with throttle body cleaner including any debris around the port. Do not soak the IAC in solvent. Use GM 1052626 cleaner of equal.
    The IAC has a simple job. The IAC is a "electronic stepper control valve motor" and adjusts a measured amount of idle air that the ECM (Engine Computer Module) wants based on when the engiune is cold, warm, in park, in neutral or when the A.C. is on.

    Install IAC:
    1. Do not push or pull on IAC pentel if the IAC has been in service. The threads on the worn drive may be damaged.
    2. Before installing the IAC, measure the pentel from the IAC flange to the tip. It must be 1.100" . Use finger pressure to retract the pentel to 1.100" if it is in is it is excess of that measurement.
    3. Lube O-ring with a small amount of fresh engine oil.
    4. Install IAC assembly. Install the attachment screws at 27 in. lb. torque (hand tight) using blue Loctite 262. Note: Professional automobile repair technicians have a habit of over-tightening everything.
    5. Reconnect IAC harness connector.

    Reset IAC pentel position:
    1. Turn ignition on for 20 seconds.
    2. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds.
    3. Start engine
    4. Check engine idle in all conditions.

    Recommended IAC valves:
    GM 17113209....... $162.56 MSRP
    Delphi CV10011.... $80.00 retail price
  • jc43204jc43204 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 blazer with a 4.3 engine. It will not start unless a booster charger is connected, I put in a new high cca battery and still have the problem. If I just turn the key for a second and let off some times it will start, if I crank it more it will not fire at all. When the engine is cranking I still have full battery voltage reading at the fuse block under the hood. Any ideas what to check next?
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