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Comments
It is not wise to go the cheap route and just replace the solenoid and neglect to replace the starter. They should be replaced as a unit because it is nearly the same amount of labor to replace either one and it is not a pleasant job, so you do not want to do it twice or pay for having it done twice. Never tell a auto repair shop what to replace. Always let the repair shop technician tell you what needs to be replaced.. Unscrouplous repair shops are just waiting for someone to tell them what to replace. Then they are off the hook if it does not fix the problem..
When I was a junior in high school, I replaced a starter solenoid on my 1955 Studebaker Champion 6-cylinder when it failed to start engage the starter when we were on the beach at Galveston. It was easy on that vehicle and I did not even have to get under the car. It is impossible to replace the starter and solenoid without raising the car on a Blazer or any V6 or V8 for that matter. If I was still physically able, replacing the starter and solenoid on a S10 Blazer would be a 4 hour job for me.
Starters and starter solenoids wear out slowly over a period of time similar to shock absorbers. You do not know how bad they were until you replace them.
I am betting on a dying fuel pump.
Second, check the vacuum line coming from the intake manifold over to the vacuum resevoir. Would be in the area around the brake booster.
Keep in mind this ONLY happens when the weather is in the 90's and I have the air on MAX. Disconnecting the battery and waiting 10 minutes clears everything up. We have been advised to replace the O2 senors but that can get expensive if you have to do that every year.
The reason I thing the fuel pump might have been the culprit is my daughter has a 1999 Cavalair and always had problems with the TAC jumping and stalling for no reason. Had the engine replaced at 60,000 with the same issues. The vehicle finally would go no more after about another 60,000 or so and we ended up changing the fuel pump, and knock on wood it runs fine now.
In the Balazer's case the fuel pump just up and quit in my daughters case it never quit just kept jerking and stalling a lot.
Will keep everyone in formed if the fuel pump fixes my problem as well.
You said this is a '97 model. You shouldn't be spraying carb cleaner into it as there are components that can be harmed. You might try taking the MAF out and cleaning it with an approved cleaner. The throttle body can be cleaned, but should be done with throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner.
The bad news is that it costs 60-70 bucks! I have seen CPS failure occur two different ways. One is just driving along and boom, engine dies. If you try and restart, no-worky, but if you turn the key to off, wait a few seconds, then try to start the car it will fire right up. The other failure mode I have seen is an engine shutdown at high RPM, and coming back online when the speed slows down, sort of like hitting a governor. The intermittent failure may or may not set a code. The high RPM failure will only set a code if it occurs three times within an operating cycle. That means you start the car and get it to occur three times before turning the car off.
I would suggest getting someone with a code reader to check for stored codes. You can spend a lot of money on sensors before you hit the right one.
In plain English, the TCC solenoid locks up the torque converter in the transmission to give you better gas milage. The lock-up must occur when the engine is fully warmed up and at higher cruising speeds or stalling will occur. The TCC has a wiring connector in plain view and can be disconnected. The car can be driven with the TCC disconnected without causing any problems besides a little higher fuel consumption. Drive the car with the TCC disconected for a few days and if the stalling problem disappears, viola, the problem is located.
Get the computer scanned (Autozone is one that will check) and see if you have any codes. There are a couple of sensors that could cause this, but they should throw codes. Idle air control solenoid, TPS, CPS (intermittent).
I have a 00 Blazer again with the 4.3L w/ 125k mi. Been having problems with starting it. Seems like its not getting fuel. I shoot a little cleaner into the throttle body in order to get it to start but that dosen't always work. I've checked the fuel pressure at the rail and its sitting at 65 with the key on. Its slowely geting worse as the days go on. I talked to a mechanic and he said it might be the spider injector or the regulator. I do a lot of my own work but never got into the engine itself. Anyone had this problem before and know how to fix it? The mechanic told me if its the injectors it'll run about $450. Is this something I can do in my driveway? and what it would cost? :sick: :lemon:
Had a rusted battery terminal screw. It was being shaken when driving, caused the battery not to charge properly when driving. An easy test is to jiggle each wire separately(obviously do not create a connection with yourself and the car). You will hear the power go on and off.
Again probably not it but was listed as one of the first things to check and I ignored it because had one of those duralast batteries
do it when its cold . I have had a new motor put in , rebuilt carb (for high altitude)
new fuel pump and water pump. Truck should run great......does for about 10 minutes and then it stalls. Any suggestions
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