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Chrysler Pacifica Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • well i purchase my pacifica in 07, up to now didnt have any major issues with it till this week it stall and wouldnt drive nor reverse. I took it to several mechanics and they wanted to replace the transmission. I went online and read seveal blogs about the same issue that I was having. I called Chrystler and they advise me to take it to the dealership and they open up a case for me. Well I got a called that it was the motor mounts and that it should be ready today but I was going to pay $200.

    I dont think I should be charge since this problem wasnt because I didnt take care of my truck but due to their faulty transmission and they have a recall on it. I was wondering if any of you who had the same issue did any of you have to pay for the repairs. Can you guys let me know asap before I go pick it up and hopefully the truck will not stall on me again. I hate having to ask for rides to go to work and/or pick up my kids from school. Single mom here that needs all the help she can get.

    thanks. :cry:
  • tralivetralive Posts: 3
    I own a 06 Pacifica I purchased this car new. This past weekend 7/2/11 my Pac stalled 3 xs in a 2-mile trip. This has happened several times in the past and like you I took the car to my dealer. The same dealer I purchased this car and was told each time "no code no fix". The PCM re call was done 11/2007. Today I learned about the TSB 1803905. The last post to this issue was 2/2011. June 25, 2011, I drove to AZ round trip over 800miles and not one problem. Is anyone currently having this same problem? My car stalls out when accelerating from a stop and it is very difficult to re start. The dealer could not recreate the issue they had my car for 2 days and I had a rental. I read all the post and I just need to know what to do. Do you still own your Pacifica? I am at point that I want to trade it in for something else because this is driving me insane.

    HELP!! :confuse: :cry: :(
  • I have all the issues are having and then some. Stalling out , motor mounts being replaced twice now in 3 months . My car is underwarranty but they tried to not refund the 250 dollars that was spent on the deductible. Had to fight like cats and dogs to get the money back . But got it . still having stalling problems . hopefully this time i won't have to take back to shop to repair the motor mounts again.
  • I feel your pain I finally decided to contact consumer legal service. There is a defect with this car however Chrysler will never admit it. Today I received in the mail a letter from Chrysler wanting to buy back the car. I loved my Pacifica, however I could no longer take the stalling and oh yes the last time I took the car in I was told that I needed 4 mounts and just 2 years earlier I replaced 4 motor mounts. The last time it stalled i was in a grocery store parking lot turning into a space, people began to blow their horn at me, after 2 minutes the car started and I parked the car. I was done, that was the last straw. I traded my Pacifica in that following weekend.
    I wish you no bad luck but I am willing to bet the Pacifica will stall again. BTW Consumer Legal just settled my case.
    Good Luck
    Signed No More Stalling
  • i have been having this problem to but its when im going up hill i wanted to know if your still having this problem because your post is almost a year ago
  • No I traded the Pacifica in this summer. The Pacifica stopped when turning, when driving on surface streets and on slight inclines. After the multiple
    Stopping episodes I could not take it anymore. I drive too many miles to work and did not want to take a chance on getting stranded.
  • i have a 94 paciffica that is doing this same thing. can you offer detailed pics of what you did to get it started?
  • angelaangel144angelaangel144 Posts: 8
    edited November 2011
    ok well i took my pacifica to the dealer today there replacing a ekg thing in it and then see if it continues to stall if it does they have to send it to Chrysler im not paying a dime for it because i have a warranty on it so cant tell you how much it will be to fix it. once i get it back i will post what ever i found out after that i will still keep posting once a month giving everyone an update because i know this crap is just all big pain in the [non-permissible content removed]


    Angela Thompson

    after putting it in to park and turning the key to off then turning it back on it run just fine

    i more in like will have to send it in so maybe about a week i will post again
  • well the ekg seems to be what was casing my problems i can feel the difference in the gas peddle im so happy right now. :shades: :) :) :) :) if any thing comes up i will post again
  • For some: there is a switch called, oddly enough, the PRNDL switch and it is located inside the trans (xmission must be pulled to replace it). If it doesn't make good contact with shifter in P or N then it can be adjusted or, worse case, replaced. >>GEARSHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT
    VERIFICATION

    Place gearshift lever in gated park (P).
    Attempt to move vehicle by rocking back and forth on level ground. If vehicle does not move, attempt to start engine. If engine starts, the park position is correct.
    Set parking brake.
    Turn key to on/run and depress brake pedal. Place gearshift lever in neutral (N).
    Attempt to start engine. If engine starts in both neutral (N) or park (P), gearshift cable is adjusted properly. No adjustment is required.
    If engine does not start in either park (P) or neutral (N), perform adjustment procedure.

    >>ADJUSTMENT

    Park the vehicle on level ground and set the parking brake.
    Place the gearshift lever in gated park (P) and remove ignition key.
    Loosen the cable adjustment screw at the transaxle manual valve lever (Gearshift Cable Adjustment).
    Pull the gearshift lever fully forward to the park detent position.
    Release the park brake, then rock the vehicle to assure it is in park. Reset the park brake.
    Tighten the cable adjustment screw to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs.). Gearshift cable should now be properly adjusted.
    Verify adjustment by using the verification procedure

    .
  • sorry its not called ekg but EGR
  • :sick: well it runs better now that the EGR is fixed but now it stalled again :( :( taking it back to the shop because all the work on it is still under warranty thank god :surprise:
  • any new updates ??? Thanks in advance!
  • well progressive informed me that 2005 had a recall but mine was fixed. found that out by asking a Chrysler dealership. you can find out if your car is up to date by taking your car vin to them and they can look in the computer it should not cost anything. right now the stalling has not happen for over a month. this is the 2 recalls there only for 2005 pacifica :D

    Recall Number: 06V432000
    Dates Manufactured: JUL 2004 to NOV 2005
    Number of Vehicles Affected: 127928
    Date Owners Notified On: NOV 2006
    ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE FUEL PUMP MODULE AND THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) SOFTWARE MAY ALLOW THE ENGINE TO STALL UNDER CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS.
    Consequence of Defect:
    THIS COULD CAUSE A CRASH TO OCCUR WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING.
    Corrective Action:
    DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE. THE FUEL PUMP MODULE WILL ALSO BE REPLACED ON VEHICLES BUILT FROM AUGUST 1, 2004 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30, 2004. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 21, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLER CHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
    there is also another recall just to let people know

    Recall Number: 05V066000
    Dates Manufactured: JUL 2004 to JAN 2005
    Number of Vehicles Affected: 43180
    Date Owners Notified On: MAR 2005
    CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MAY EXPERIENCE AN INTERMITTENT AND EVENTUAL TOTAL LOSS OF HEADLAMP FUNCTION.
    Consequence of Defect:
    THE HEAD LIGHTS MAY NOT OPERATE PROPERLY WHICH COULD RESULT IN INTERMITTENT OR NO HEADLIGHT FUNCTION. THIS COULD IMPAIR A DRIVER'S VISIBILITY, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
    Corrective Action:
    DEALERS WILL INSPECT, AND REPLACE IF NECESSARY, THE WIRING HARNESS AND LOW BEAM BULB ON BOTH HEADLAMP ASSEMBLIES FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 28, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLER CHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
  • rena9424rena9424 Posts: 1
    what would cause a pacifica to all of a sudden just start to jerk real hard we took it and got several readings on it one is the cam sensor in which we have not placed yet also iling up when in drive once u first crank it up it just starts to jerk real bad on its own and cutting off other codes are p0440 and p0031 p05o8 please help me out i need help bad
  • miners60miners60 Posts: 1
    My 2004 pacifica died on me yesterday after jerking really bad. The hubby banged on the gas tank & it started. today he replaced the fuel pump & it wont start right away, sounds like it wants to turn over but doesnt. then when it does start it revs up to 4000 rpm's. Does anyone know what the problem is?
  • slaconteslaconte Posts: 5
    Had the same issue with my '05 a year ago, continually stalling when making a slow left hand turn (generally into a parking place, entire car would just die). Replaced 02 sensor, solved the problem. However, now looking at $700 for a new oil pan, $1000 for rear shocks, and $1200 for timing belt, and that is just the start. Have loved the car up to this point, but it is prob time to get rid of it after going on these forums and researching, I am afraid to dump any money into it. Only has 97K, had over 147K on Toyota....and this car was babied.
  • I have a 2007 Pac, about a month ago, it wouldnt start. I was at a funeral so I went inside to pay my respects came out 2 hrs later and it started right up, like nothing happen earlier. The car hasnt done that since. But NOW its stalling while I am driving. I may be doing 30-40 mph or 50 and it just dies, I loose all sterling, its scary. NO mechanic and figure out why because of course it doesnt do it to them. Has anyone had this problem and had it fix. I need help this is crazy.
  • Chrissy,

    You are not alone with the problems with your 07 Pacifica. Mine has been intermittently stalling for over a year now. Three separate Chrysler dealerships and Chrysler themselves know about my particular problem. Many sleepless nights and hundreds of phone calls later, this is my last weekend owning a Chrysler. I think what broke the camel's back was an incident last month where I was traveling at 50mph and stalled in front of a packed elementary school bus. Simply because these problems cannot be duplicated, I have been spoken to and treated as if I am the one in the wrong. My Chrysler case manager recently told me that Chrysler can do nothing about my problems. So you are not alone. We all feel the pain.
  • Thank you Shelley for your reply. Im scared to death to drive this car. It just stalls when it wants too, no warning. I was doing 50 as you were and came pretty close to taking out a tree with my daughter in the car. I am as well looking into buy a new car, its a shame because other than the stalling the car has been a decent car, but I cant drive it with a child and feel save so Im going this week to trade it in. All the dealers and mechanics think Im nuts because of course it never stalls with someone else in the car, but my 8 year can verify it..LOL
  • i rebuilt me alternator about 6 months ago and have not had a problem sense everyone tells me that could not be the problem and well so far its worked great for me. im not trusting any one that tells me im wrong because guess what no one has done it. all the problems i was having are now gone :P i even forgot about this problem until i got an email a few days ago. if anything happens i will post on here again but for 6 months it has not happened and i have put over 10,000 miles on sense made lots of long trips for work out of state. before i rebuilt it was stalling almost every week. so just try rebuilding the alternator for about $80 if they are selling bad alternators dont go buy a new one. take it to a small shop and have it rebuilt there auto zone and all them will send it back to a dealer and have it rebuilt there. i feel they have bad parts so i would never take it to them.
  • no start at all after shutting off doing 65 mph on the highway and getting it towed to my home,whts the problem i need help
  • My old car actually always started right back up. I took it to the mechanic several time and since it wasnt doing it for them they never did figure it out. I almost wrecked doing 50 on a back road with my kid in the car and scared me half to death so I traded it in and have had my new car for a month now! And it NOT a pacifica. So glad to me rid of that headache. GOOD LUCK TO YOU
  • You are not alone my 2006 stalls. I have had all of the mounts changed, sensors, catalytic converter, gear shift mechanism etc.... I use to love my car but I've just had too many problems. My mounts needed changing at 40,000 miles. I'm driving and the car just stalls. Its scary. Someone mentioned it could be the fuel pump.
  • all i did was rebuild my alternator and it has been working great for 7 8 months now no more stalling for me :shades:
  • sysebosysebo Posts: 2
    Hello, forum. My frustration level with my PAC is at its boiling point. I have had multiple problems, each of which are so complex I can't fix it without going to the shop. This time is no different.

    When the temperature is hot outside, my car will not turn over - at all. No clicking, no noise, complete silence. I turn the key in the ignition switch all the way to the right, and I have to either apply so much pressure to get a response that my key may break (it is already bent) or I have to open all the windows and doors and allow the inside of the car to "cool down" before trying again. This can take anywhere between 15 minutes and a half hour. In winter it isn't as bad, and I can get it started better if I park the car under shade or inside a covered garage area, but even it is getting worse.

    How would inside car temperature affect the ability to turn over the engine? Is it my ignition switch?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Certainly sounds like the switch. Remember that everything expands in heat, albeit to different levels depending on the material. This includes the gaps between the components - when you have a tight jar lid, you run hot water on it to loosen it... the heat expands the metal lid more than the glass jar, and results in a larger gap, making the lid easy to open.

    Something in the switch mechanism may be damaged just enough to not allow proper operation during that heat expansion.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • I was wondering what tsb was because I'm having the same problem with my pacifica. I replaced the plugs, map sensor and evap selanoid. How is your car doing
  • It ended up being a damaged ignition switch. A plastic piece broke off deep inside of it. When it heated up outside, the broken piece would expand, causing difficulty to turn it. Tried to fix it and disabled the starting mechanism. Cost about $650 to replace. :(
  • bdrobsbdrobs Posts: 1
    I know this post is alittle older but we had the sameissueand replaced the EGR Valve and it has seemed to fix the problem
  • My 2007 Pac dies in reverse, every time. It makes it touchy getting out of a parking place. I have to put it in park and restart it. It started doing this last year. (I have put 180,000 miles on it since I bought it.) Now, it has a problem starting. The battery is ok: it can be jumped- but for no reason, it dies overnight. Doors are shut, lights are off, but it dies. Also, the heat quit coming on. Blower comes on, AC ok, but no heat. It has been a good car, I would like to finish driving it, but if anyone has had these problems and fixed them, let me know what you did. This sounds like something electrical, maybe. I would like to try the cheap fix first.
  • Eureka!!!! Your problems are solved.. If your having shuttering problems, problems with your EGR, idle air control, throttle positioning sensor, car not turning over, car acting erratically or dying out and even transmission issues such as going in limp mode not switching gears... It is in 2 places the wire harness!!!!
    1) Under the tire well above the dog bone for suspension is a Negative or ground cable bolted to the transmission this sometimes comes loose and will prevent your car from starting or even turning over.. There is also a harness that passes over this bolt which will rub out on the back side in time.. This will cause problems in the egr, i.a.c., t.p.s and Ats.... Fix the wire fix the problem
    2) if you open your hood under your battery not directly but down low youll see your solenoid packs and other transmission sensors follow these to the thicker wire harness down to wear it almost touches the frame and meets other wire harnesses... The back side of this "crossroad" rubs up against some kind of flange on the transmission with bolt holes in it.. This is the problem with transmission issues in the 2004 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5l.. Fix the wire fix the problem!!! I spent alot of money on parts to figure out this simple easy cheap fix.. Make sure to reinforce protection in the back of theose wires during fix.. Hope i save dyou some
  • I have now located the problem that everyone is having. People bring cars to me when they cant figure things out with them. I am what most people call a trouble shooter. I just finished up a Pacifica, (that was brought here from the dealer!) with the stalling problems and the not wanting to start sometimes. Stalling while driving and turning and those problems are linked to one source. Here is your fix people. Listen up. Jack up the car and remove the front drivers tire and passenger front tire. Remove the inner fender of both sides so you can successfully remove the bumper as well. Now remove your windshield washer jug and you are ready to fix your problem. Now you should see a black box behind where the washer reservoir was attached. Going into this black box is 4 different plug ins with about 15 wires or so in each. Hard to miss it. Now, call it faulty engineering or whatever, but these plug ins do not want to stay connected and fully seated in the respective slots. I can seat them and press the secondary red tabs down and it still did not want to stay connected. So, I took a 5-6 inch piece of flat metal about the thickness and width of a paint stick stir. On the third plug down is a few notches that stick up. I cut them down so my metal bar layed flush with all four plugs. I strapped a ratched strap around the center of the PCM and on top of my bar that was forcing all four plugs in at once and ratched til all plugs were fully seated. Dont break your freaking computer now, just seat them. I then took 2 heavy duty zip ties and put on around the ecm and my flat bar so when I remove the strap the zip ties stay and hold my bar in place. Now put the rest of the car back together. Loose connections on the PCM seem to be the issue. Fixed this one anyway.
  • huffy08huffy08 Posts: 1
    Had issue with 07 Pacifica Touring not starting when key fully turned. It was sporadic and seemed worse when it was hot out. Saw many possible solutions and tried them all. Cleaned battery terminals, cleaned cable at starter and re-attached, installed an additional ground cable to battery using 8 gauge wire then connected to frame, sprayed half a can of WD40 into ignition switch, still nothing. Checked starter relay contact points and voltage, tried another relay and a jumper, all were good. Kicked the car a couple of times, still didn't work. Removed the ignition tumbler and cleaned it as best as possible. Eventually I removed the ignition assembly and checked the "IGNITION SWITCH ACTUATOR PIN" BINGO!!!! The actuator pin has two metal arms that extend on either side of the white plastic pin. With time, the metal will fatigue and crack. Because it cracks, it stays in place and will allow the key to work sometimes and not work others. By wiggling the key as you turn it will allow the car to start, but eventually with time, the arm will separate and the key will eventually become harder and harder to start. This might not be the answer to your problem, but its a good place to start. The part was only $26.45 at Amazon.com (Dorman 924-739 Ignition Switch Actuator Pin) and I found a video on youtube on how to remove the ignition tumbler. It is only a few extra steps to remove the actuator pin and any shade tree mechanic should be able to do in about an hour with tools you'll find in any tool box.
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