Ditto from here on the ease of installation. Removed the plastic skirt (5 bolts), replaced the #10 (nbr 5 passenger side) fitting by laying on my back. The grease did not come out upon removal. I shall replace the nbr 5 with a right angle one at next grease job (fittings are approx $1.20 each). Fred
Did anyone buy the 2000 silverado manual yet??? is it worth buying if you plan to do your own maintanence??? I plan on doing most everything (oil,brakes etc.) and am thinking of buying it. Please let me know. Thanks oh yea i havent really worked on cars very much a little here and there only major stuff has been brakes really. Thank you very much
the mans for the '00 are a good investment! there is a lot of info youll never use and a lot youll never understand..however, what ever you want to try yourself is covered in 'em. part #s , specialty tools, method by steps, cautions and short-cuts, codes and elec. diagrams. lots for all you yanks to read during the cold hard winter!!(lol). the only improvement i would suggest would be photos instead of CAD drawings. yall take it easy now.......ya hear?!?!?!?!?!
the answer to your problem is the urethane sealant that the glass shops use. it won't let go under extreme weather conditions (hot or cold) like 2-way tape or silicone will. in the event that (hopefully in never happens to you) the windshield becomes damaged and needs to be replaced and is hopefully covered by your insurance, they will replace the moulding which is also connected to your upper door seals. if they see silicone or tape they will not replace with new ones. at best they will just refubish the old seals. glass shops do not even consider second rate adhesives such as these.
thanks for all the responses on the grease fittings. tonight, i'm going to go out and get some right angled fittings. i now know why i was having trouble finding the right angle fittings. i was looking for a right angle adapter for my GREASE GUN...duh! not a right angled fitting (didn't realize how easy they are to replace) that would be easier to get the hose to. so...again, many thanks. i'll replace, take more pictures, and update the picture trail site.
Yea major it makes the truck stop duh. I know ur talking about major being like an engine rebuild or something but not on a 92 S-10 yet just small stuff.
Appreciate the numerous types of info that you posted. I am quite interested in some of those areas. Will you please post more details on your choice of the ARE Cap on Topic #1372 (Pickup Bed Caps). I will then respond accordingly. We are trying to keep that topic from being eliminated or frozen due to a lack of use/postings. Thanks. Bob
what the Kernick's got cooking? Sorry just watching wrestling. I've been reading some of the posts over the last few months, and thought it was time for a post. I've had my '00 Z-71 (5.3L) X-cab since Oct. 99 and have yet to find a problem. 6,500 miles. The worst thing about the truck was the 50 cent floor mats. Get the Autotrac if you get snow. Summary: Best vehicle I've ever owned.
Get the factory manuals for sure. Even if you have someone else do the work it's likely they don't have the manual. Plus you can learn a lot just thumbing through them. Be sure to order the p/n with an "8" on the end, otherwise you'll get the old style truck version. In Helm lingo, NS=new style, OS=old style.
Heck yeah discs are a piece of cake.....drums suck...as early as getting the things off!!
I leaned a long time ago.....do one at a time...why Ryan?....so you have something to look at!
I still remember stretching those old rusted springs...with the wrong tools of course back then...and using a whole lotta cuss words...
4 wheel drums sucked for stopping and changing...but oh did those cars fly!
4 wheel disc are a piece of cake Ryan...wife's mustang needs a special tool for the rears to get them off...(had to rent one..it's a huge monster!)...dunno what The Silverado looks like?
Ryan, if you are serious about doing some work yourself the manuals will be very handy! I've done work on cars/trucks both with and without manuals and the job went smoother and quicker with em'. As for drum brakes, not a problem. I own a '71 Chevelle with manual four wheel drum brakes(very old tech) and after replacing the brakes about 10 times its a snap now. Not much has changed with newer drum applications. Mike, I checked your link for the locking diff. They didn't have anyhting listed past '98 so I'll give'em a call. Seems it will cost about the same as if I got it to begin with. Didn't get the truck back today cuz school is out and they are swamped, yeah right!! Has anyone here ran into a problem w/ the engine bogging down when the engine is cold?
No im not doing brakes YET on my truck i have done them on my S-10 i had. I was just saying i will do the brake job when it needs it hopefully not for awhile
all - thought i'd let you all know, after lots of sweat out in the parking lot (it was still 90+ at about 6:00 today) i finally found the elusive 11th grease fitting. also, thanks to mike l and...forget the other guy's name for the right angle fitting advice. i installed one on the #5 (by my pics) on the passenger side. worked like a charm. on the driver side, when i tried to screw the right angle in, it always stopped in a position where i couldn't get to it. after a bit of tweaking, i finally went back to the straight up and down zerk, cuz i could get that one when i removed the plastic brush guard (which i had to do to get to #11 and replace the passenger side #5. also, drained the rear axle and replaced with mobil 1 synthetic 75 W 90. stuff coming out was clean, i'll let you know if anything fantastic happens. mobil claims that their stuff will improve gas mileage. i'll let you know that as well. now that i've seen what's available when you pull the skid plate off, i'll take new pics and update my picture trail album so you grease monkeys will know where all the fittings are. hopefully this week or next...
Seems like it was around $285 for the '99 Silverado 2wd Ext cab. The dealers price is probably right since they charge by the book/hour. Even if the tech could do it in 30 minutes the book is what you'll pay! Check Mike's post #461 on an alternative. Still will have to get it installed. I've 31k on my tires and they are still good.
I think I call and have them install all 11 zerks. If they have the manual, would it show all 11? or should I bet the tech $50 that he can't find them all?
Received my Helms manuals yesterday (4 volumes, vol 2 is for 4.3 engine only). The manual does not show the 11 fittings as good as Kyle's pictures do. Their drawing only points to the general area and makes no reference to nbr 11 (the one Kyle finally found.. way to go!) The manuals leave a lot to desire in the pictorials. My 6 year old grandson could do about as good. The manual has too much white space, same picture (sketch) repeated on same page (2 of 3 per page). Pictures are not numbered (as per Haynes), so that the text can refer to the appropriate picture (illustration). They simply repeat the picture next to the appropriate paragraph as many as 4 times on the left and right page. Overall, well worth the money just for the fault tree tables (series of orderly steps to help analyze a problem and arrive at a solution) Fred
Wife's 99 Tahoe LT has heated outside self- dimming mirrors. My '00 Silverado LT with the heated outside mirrors do not dim like the '99 Tahoe. The new Helms manual has a fault tree table to locate the problem with the failure of the outside mirror to dim. Before I take it in for service I have a .. QUESTION: Do the '00 Silverado/Sierra mirrors dim in your vehicle? Thanks Fred
Inside rear view mirror dims at night but i dont have the heated outside mirrors to let you know sorry. My dads 00 LT blazer's outside mirrors do dim at night a very nice feature.
i believe the site is located on the west coast. anytime i post (east coast) the post time is about 3 hours behind. anyways...i have a '00 silverado and my outer mirrors do not dim. however, they are not heated either. i've heard that they were supposed to dim, but for some reason, were never manufactured that way. the tahoes and burbs got some nice tweaks that the 'rados didn't. the extending sunvisors are another thing that was nice of them to put in the the tahoes/burbs, but why not in the 'rados?
if the tech doesn't pull the plastic brush guard, i'd bet him the $50 on the #11 fitting. if he takes it off and doesn't find it, i'd tell him to take it off the lift and then i'd leave that shop. as soon as you pull the brush guard, #11 is staring right atcha. also - careful. i wouldn't ask them to replace all your zerks with right angles. only the #5 (if you go by my numbering system) on the passenger side really needs it. best i can tell, you HAVE to pull the brush guard to hit #11, so...might as well save yourself some effort and hit the driver's side #5 from the front. once you take the guard off, the 5's and #11 become pretty easy to hit. hey, you know, if someone would just teach me what these parts are called where the zerks are located, we could stop referring to them by the "werking-number-system". just a thought. as i said before, pics will be coming in the near future...
I'm sorry. I went home and looked at my truck. I don't think the side mouldings came with the windshield. The top certainly did.
If the sides did not come with the windshield, at least the RTV released easily and the parts were reusable.
Kyle,
I like the "werking-number-system". It is a good reference, and it is ours. We have numbers 1d (driverside) thru 5d, and 1p thru 5p and 11. It's even in code! And the best part is we know what it means.
I recently changed the oil on my 00 LT 1500 Z71 w skid plate. I encountered a huge mess as I watched the oil drain onto my skid plate and drip sown through the five or six holes in it. Is there an easy fix to this or do you just remove the skid plate when you change the oil. Also I thought about removing it to clean it off but being a young mechanic encountered two different size bolts on the skid plate. Something like a 5/8 on the front two but it slipped off the back two tried 9/16, 5/8 and 14mm and 17mm i'm thinking it was a 15mm or 16mm that I didn't have a wrench for.
Why does everyone keep bitching about these things. I dont understand why. I have never used my sunvisors. My suggestion buy some good sunglasses they will help keep the sun out of your eyes and just think itll make you look "cooler" and then u can pick up the chicks haha.
Sorry kyle i just dont understand why people mostly blue (aka my internet dad speaking of him wheres he been?) kept complaining about these things.
If the front of the truck('00 Z71 LT) is raised a little, by jacking/ramps, then the motor oil should not touch the skid plate (mine did not). In fact, it came out with such force that the oil overshot my large drain pan and made a mess on the carport. If one is to work on these trucks, then the purchase of a set of good metric tools is recommended (sockets, wrenches [box and open end] from 4mm to 21mm) The "werking-number-system" works for me. I think that the referenced parts are the upper and lower control arms (left and right side-nbrs 1L, 2L, 3L, 1R, 2R, 3R), steering arm (4L,5L), idler arm (4R,5R) and I have not figured out what #11 is called. Fred
Next time i'll just drive up on ramps. I thought oh its a 4x4 i'll just slide under there and drain it. I had plenty of room. BTW mine shot out too, over shot the oil pan.
ryan - i'm not bitching, just curious as to why they have them on the tahoes/burbs and not the 'rados. as i recall, not too many people gave a rat's [non-permissible content removed] about your fender flares, but we all tolerated it...if you don't care about it, don't comment on it...just scroll on past.
jarvus - when i removed my brush guard last night, all five bolts were 15mm. haven't pulled the actual skid plate yet, but bolts LOOK the same. as for the oil problem...with my front end raised, i did not encounter problems with it hitting the skid plate either. with the exception of what fred mentioned - when you pop the drain plug...look out. best bet is (if you're coordinated enough) hold the catch pan up near the drain plug just before you pull it. let the oil gush into the pan and guide it down to the ground to avoid mess. this can be tricky if you're outside and it's windy. might want to protect your eyes. my catch pan is lightweight plastic, so it's not really hard to do this.
Still encountering those problems of building the tool collection, will have to invest in ramps and more wrenches. I figured it was metric as the other wrenches just didn't quite fit. Oh well nothing a roll of TP and some kitty litter won't fix, right?
I go to work at 6am sun in face but not the past wk its been cloudy. I go home about 4 so its not to bad but then i go to my other job at 5 but i dont drive my truck. My seat is all the way back cause im pretty tall im very glad i got the manual seats pull lever and im all the way back.
TIM: WRAP AROUND SUNGLASSES haha they are great very stylish too. Mine were very expensive though perscription $275
Why u gotta get racist and talk about my fender flares??? Its not about fender flares its about visors dont go switching it over. hahaha Im just saying the topic has been bitched about for a long time my fender flare issue has died since i got my truck.
Sorry im just wondering why it bothers people so much.
Maybe they dont have them in the silverado is because they dont want the tahoes and such to be exactly the same you know like the rims being different. Things have to be different
quite frankly, i don't care...but if you follow your logic of being not like the tahoe/burbs:
"Maybe they dont have them in the silverado is because they dont want the tahoes and such to be exactly the same you know like the rims being different."
then the silverados wouldn't have rims at all...it's not different...it's MISSING.
if you have any low cost access to a lift...i'd use that. i've done mine on ramps twice now, and unless i get a creeper, i don't think i'll do it again. we have a automobile craft shop here on post that lets you rent a hydraulic lift for a whopping $3/hour. i think that's the ticket the next time i get to it. beats the you know what outta laying on scorching hot asphalt, scratching my back up and having oil blow all over the place, that's for sure! kyle
thnaks for the info. Called service advisor this morning and tole hime to go and install all 11 zerks. He asked me if I was sure that there was 11? I told him yep and to bet the tech the $50 on whether he finds all of them. He will call back to let me know if the bet is on. This may seem strange but I never knew the advisor or the tech prior to buying my Chevy. It's been in the shop so many times that I got to know all of them pretty well. Bottom line...I don't get that "can't verify bull on my service report anymore". Cost me a couple cases of beer and some lunches though.
call me ignorant...my wife does. when you say "install all 11 zerks," exactly what are you referring to? there are already 11 grease fittings there. are you having them replace all 11 with right angle fittings, or am i missing the meaning of zerk here? like i said before, putting a right angle fitting on some of those locations is just going to make life harder...
Called and they are almost done. The engine noise that I had checked was blame on the injectors. Still don't believe it. Does your injectors tick when you first start in the am? Going to pick it up.
As of this morning...I have NO grease fittings on my truck...it's as if my truck does not need to be greased....everything is completely sealed. Does this make sense?
my '00 1500 LS xcab 5.3 2wd, came with no zerks, no where on the truck. No, I did not take them off. Could it be a part of dealer prep? Unless of course it's because the color of my truck is black on black...Wish I knew...but I have no zerks to speak of...If I had my truck, I could take some pictures and you will see no zerks...but then I made the $50 bet with the tech so when I get my truck back...who knows when...if they can be installed...I will either have 11 zerks or $50...
Comments
Fred
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/index.html
Tire Rack web site. It is a great web site for tire/wheel information.
http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp
David
Ryan
part #s , specialty tools, method by steps, cautions and short-cuts, codes and elec. diagrams.
lots for all you yanks to read during the cold hard winter!!(lol).
the only improvement i would suggest would be photos instead of CAD drawings.
yall take it easy now.......ya hear?!?!?!?!?!
Ryan
sealant that the glass shops use. it won't let go
under extreme weather conditions (hot or cold)
like 2-way tape or silicone will. in the event
that (hopefully in never happens to you) the
windshield becomes damaged and needs to be
replaced and is hopefully covered by your
insurance, they will replace the moulding which
is also connected to your upper door seals. if
they see silicone or tape they will not replace
with new ones. at best they will just refubish
the old seals. glass shops do not even consider
second rate adhesives such as these.
...red
kyle
Yikes!
Better get that manual for sure Ryan!
- Tim
Ryan
The guy had a terrible time getting the windshield out, clean up was and installation were straightforward.
Mike L
I've been reading some of the posts over the last few months, and thought it was time for a post. I've had my '00 Z-71 (5.3L) X-cab since Oct. 99 and have yet to find a problem. 6,500 miles. The worst thing about the truck was the 50 cent floor mats. Get the Autotrac if you get snow.
Summary: Best vehicle I've ever owned.
I leaned a long time ago.....do one at a time...why Ryan?....so you have something to look at!
I still remember stretching those old rusted springs...with the wrong tools of course back then...and using a whole lotta cuss words...
4 wheel drums sucked for stopping and changing...but oh did those cars fly!
4 wheel disc are a piece of cake Ryan...wife's mustang needs a special tool for the rears to get them off...(had to rent one..it's a huge monster!)...dunno what The Silverado looks like?
Good Luck
- Tim
Mike, I checked your link for the locking diff. They didn't have anyhting listed past '98 so I'll give'em a call. Seems it will cost about the same as if I got it to begin with.
Didn't get the truck back today cuz school is out and they are swamped, yeah right!! Has anyone here ran into a problem w/ the engine bogging down when the engine is cold?
Ryan
THanks guys ill probably get it in a month or 2
thought i'd let you all know, after lots of sweat out in the parking lot (it was still 90+ at about 6:00 today) i finally found the elusive 11th grease fitting. also, thanks to mike l and...forget the other guy's name for the right angle fitting advice. i installed one on the #5 (by my pics) on the passenger side. worked like a charm. on the driver side, when i tried to screw the right angle in, it always stopped in a position where i couldn't get to it. after a bit of tweaking, i finally went back to the straight up and down zerk, cuz i could get that one when i removed the plastic brush guard (which i had to do to get to #11 and replace the passenger side #5.
also, drained the rear axle and replaced with mobil 1 synthetic 75 W 90. stuff coming out was clean, i'll let you know if anything fantastic happens. mobil claims that their stuff will improve gas mileage. i'll let you know that as well.
now that i've seen what's available when you pull the skid plate off, i'll take new pics and update my picture trail album so you grease monkeys will know where all the fittings are. hopefully this week or next...
kyle
Danog
The manuals leave a lot to desire in the pictorials. My 6 year old grandson could do about as good. The manual has too much white space, same picture (sketch) repeated on same page (2 of 3 per page). Pictures are not numbered (as per Haynes), so that the text can refer to the appropriate picture (illustration). They simply repeat the picture next to the appropriate paragraph as many as 4 times on the left and right page.
Overall, well worth the money just for the fault tree tables (series of orderly steps to help analyze a problem and arrive at a solution)
Fred
to locate the problem with the failure of the outside mirror to dim. Before I take it in for service I have a ..
QUESTION: Do the '00 Silverado/Sierra mirrors dim in your vehicle? Thanks Fred
Ryan
kyle
hey, you know, if someone would just teach me what these parts are called where the zerks are located, we could stop referring to them by the "werking-number-system". just a thought. as i said before, pics will be coming in the near future...
kyle
If the sides did not come with the windshield, at least the RTV released easily and the parts were reusable.
Kyle,
I like the "werking-number-system". It is a good reference, and it is ours. We have numbers 1d (driverside) thru 5d, and 1p thru 5p and 11. It's even in code! And the best part is we know what it means.
Later,
Mike L
Your thoughts appreciated.
jarvus
Sorry kyle i just dont understand why people mostly blue (aka my internet dad speaking of him wheres he been?) kept complaining about these things.
Ryan
Ryan
If you drive to work south early in the morning...and drive home north...about 5:30 or so....you would understand.
OR if your seat if further forward...instead of all the way back...you won't understand.
The are too short and need to cover the entire side window.
Glasses don't help unless you get the huge ones with the side panels that gramps always wears after eye surgury!
Mirrors,
2500 LT.....mine do not dim. I do not believe any of them do.
- Tim
If one is to work on these trucks, then the purchase of a set of good metric tools is recommended (sockets, wrenches [box and open end] from 4mm to 21mm)
The "werking-number-system" works for me. I think that the referenced parts are the upper and lower control arms (left and right side-nbrs 1L, 2L, 3L, 1R, 2R, 3R), steering arm (4L,5L), idler arm (4R,5R) and I have not figured out what #11 is called. Fred
jarvus - when i removed my brush guard last night, all five bolts were 15mm. haven't pulled the actual skid plate yet, but bolts LOOK the same. as for the oil problem...with my front end raised, i did not encounter problems with it hitting the skid plate either. with the exception of what fred mentioned - when you pop the drain plug...look out. best bet is (if you're coordinated enough) hold the catch pan up near the drain plug just before you pull it. let the oil gush into the pan and guide it down to the ground to avoid mess. this can be tricky if you're outside and it's windy. might want to protect your eyes. my catch pan is lightweight plastic, so it's not really hard to do this.
kyle
TIM: WRAP AROUND SUNGLASSES haha they are great very stylish too. Mine were very expensive though perscription $275
Just an idea
Ryan
Sorry im just wondering why it bothers people so much.
Maybe they dont have them in the silverado is because they dont want the tahoes and such to be exactly the same you know like the rims being different. Things have to be different
Ryan
"Maybe they dont have them in the silverado is
because they dont want the tahoes and such to be
exactly the same you know like the rims being
different."
then the silverados wouldn't have rims at all...it's not different...it's MISSING.
kyle
kyle
kyle
Richard
kyle
mine's a '00, 1500, LS, Z71 Ext Cab, 5.3 L
- Tim