Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Rear Hatch

Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
edited December 2018 in Chevrolet
2004 ZR 2. The dash and key fob will open glass hatch but button on gate will not (tests fine). I have 12v at the switch. I checked fuses and replaced the relay in the tailgate (black plastic box shaped with 2 electrical connections) and button still won’t work. I even checked where the wires disappear into the black flexible tubing leading inside the vehicle at the bottom of the tailgate. Someone must have had this same issue?

Best Answer

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,747
    edited December 2018 Answer ✓
    The button is in series with the lock cylinder switch. Both have to be in the closed position in order to open the glass.



Answers

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Moat people seem to complain about the button itself getting dirty or corroded, so it might be worth while popping that out and cleaning it up and see what happens. You know the actuator is good and you have 12V going to the switch, so the switch is apparently not making contact with the actuator, seems to me.
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for replying.  I replaced the switch and continuity tested the new one and it is fine.  There has to be something I am missing but this has me baffled.
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    I have been looking for this diagram for weeks.  Thank you so much!!!  With it, I found the problem in the bed of the hatch.  You have to remove the long rectangular molding where the carpet meets the tailgate (just gently pull).  Once removed,  lift the edge of the carpet, left of center, where there is a “knock out” hole in the steel where 3 “waterproof” wire connectors are located.  With your diagram, I identified the 6 pin connector controlling the hatch push button.  I pulled it apart and saw it had taken in water causing the orange power feed tip to be broken off along with the light blue wire tip.  The other 2 connectors were still functional but will need to be replaced as they are also water damaged.  Thank you again and I hope this helps others.
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    I have read numerous posts about people having power issues in their tailgate with most being “ghosts”.  If your hatch doesn’t secure properly, the water literally runs to the hole housing these 3 connectors (2- 6 pin and 1-2 pin).  One of mine was totally degraded with the other 2 close.  If you are not having issues, even a dab of “electric grease” around these could prevent future issues.
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone happen to have the wiring diagram for the rear wiper?  There are six wires (orange, blue, white, black, white w/black stripe and black w/white stripe from the hatch floor to the actuator which control the exterior push button hatch release.  Do some of these six wires also control the rear wiper?
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    Well, after replacing the water tight connector, the rear wiper still wouldn’t work. As I continuity checked everything, I looked at the diagram again and noticed the wiper had a dual power feed : the dash fuse block AND under the hood block.  I missed this fuse before as it is in the lower right corner all by its lonesome.  Grrrrrr.  But, thank you once again...saved by the wire diagram.  One new fuse and it worked.
Sign In or Register to comment.