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Petroleum or Synthetic oil for my pickup truck?

124678

Comments

  • 4x4man4x4man Posts: 222
    I did run into a similar problem when checking my oil at the gas station the other day. When I checked it, it was showing about 3/4 low, not having any oil with me I didn't add any (thank god). Got home forgot about it, remembered the next morning and checked the oil before I had started the truck, oil was full!!! Not sure how long the oil takes to drain down to the pan, but it shocked the He** out of me.
    I haven't heard any cold knock either out of this thing....lucky maybe???
    Later

    Bob
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Noticed this also. I'm used to just shutting the engine down, give it as long as it takes to fill the tank, and then check the oil. But my 5.3 seems to take a really long drain time to get a reasonably true oil reading.
    -- Don
  • bobsquatchbobsquatch Posts: 136
    Save the guesswork and ONLY check your oil level before you run your engine. Also, anywhere in the marked area of the dipstick is fine but a fanatic like me likes to keep it right to the max line. The only way to do this is by checking it cold. Do not exceed the full mark!!! This can do more damage than running a bit below the add mark.
  • mrurlmrurl Posts: 116
    Dipsticks vary. Change the oil, add 6 quarts, using half a quart to fill the filter, and the next morning check the dipstick. That will give you the exact full point.

    Peter
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    you forgot to tell him to mark the dipstick.
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    When my 89 had 9000 miles on it I put in a quart of Slick 50 and switched over to Mobil 1. Over the years I used a couple of those Fram teflon oil filters. When I sold the truck earlier this year it had 111,000 miles on it and it still used no oil, and that was going 10,000 miles between oil changes during the last four or five years. I don't know if the teflon helped, but it sure didn't seem to hurt. I think it's how you treat your engine that has the most impact. I baby mine for the first few miles, until it gets up to operating temperature. As for my new truck, I made the decision to not use teflon products based on the potential to clog up oil channels. But I did switch to Mobil 1 when I did my first oil change. I had four thousand on that change when my "Change Engine Oil" message flashed on the message center. I checked the oil level before I changed it...still reading full.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    message. I'm pretty much convinced whomever wrote the algorithm for that one owns a lot of oil company stock. GM's out there pitching 10K oil changes in the sales brochures and the light comes on at 3.5K to 4K miles under light duty conditions.
    -- Don
  • amoralesamorales Posts: 196
    UPF1218s since first change at 3,000 mi on my ole '00 C2500 5.7L. Change
    every 5K, magnetic drain plug is spotless, oil dark honey color at every change
    and dipstick is at full mark prior to change.

    97% freeway miles at avg speeds of 68-74 mph. Vehicle has 30K trouble free
    miles. Hope to keep 25 years or more. GM puts Mobil 1 in all 350 Vettes,
    if good enough for vette, should do fine for my lil pick-up
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    One thing to do is to reset it every other time without changing the oil. That way you'll go 7000 to 8000 miles. For the first few years I may change mine every time, but as the truck gets older I'll start slipping the intervals, as you can see a few posts ago.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Here's a philosophical question for you -- Doesn't it become more rather than less important to change oil often as the engine gets older, builds up more crud, develops more blow-by, etc? Personally, I've stuck with 5K oil & filter changes for about the last 20 years for up to about 130K miles with pretty good luck.
    -- Don
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    What you say may well be the case. It was really laziness and complacency that caused me to it. Also, I rationalized that this was just 2500 miles over the recommended change interval. Bear in mind that I was using Mobil 1, which supposedly is good for up to 25000 miles. I would never have gone 10000 miles on regular oil.
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    If I only went back and forth to work, I would have just over a thousand miles in three months, and when I drive more, the highway miles aren't as hard on the oil as short hauls. I use dino oil 10W30, and the least miles I've seen in three months was fifteen hundred, the most forty two hundred. Living six miles from work, contamination of the oil from short runs is a much greater worry than oil breaking down. Those of us that live close to work IMO should watch time more than miles. Synthetic would be a waste of money if changed at fifteen hundred miles.

    Harry
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    of money to change any oil at 1500 miles.

    - Tim
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    ......1500 miles took 3 months and were all short little trips that never allowed the motor to warm up. But I guess Harry already said that, Ace.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    ...I'm not a believer that we should listen to the oil change people and make sure we get there at minimum of 4 times a year.

    You could change it every week....and no harm would be done...

    The newer the better right?

    I wouldn't change it at 1500 for that situation....buy hey...it ain't my truck.

    - Tim
  • amoralesamorales Posts: 196
    year, just before it turned to sludge using Pennzoil straigt 30 wt and he got 377,000 miles before pulley broke off crankshaft. He felt using straight 30 gave him more natural crude than oil with heavy additives. Millions of articles have been written about oil changes. He thinks iam overdoing it using Mobil 1 and changing it every 5000 mi. I said, Pop, oil is cheap, cheaper than a $2000 - $5000 new crate engine. Spending $150 bucks a year changin oil/filter yourself is not too expensive. Changing oil every 1500-3000 miles is ok if you drive a $500,000 1972 Ferrari Daytona Spyder with 6 webers on top of V12 chain driven cam motor that can do 180+ on some Arizona open highway with no cars around for 50 miles.....Opps sorry off topic, back to
    topic of Synthetic or Dino juice for pick-um ups.....
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    Tim is right. I do change it too often, but the oil and filter cost less than a tank of gas, and I do it myself. I won't go broke buying oil.

    Harry
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    has 10w-30 at $10.40 for a case of 12.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    Living six miles from work, contamination of the oil from short runs is a much greater worry than oil breaking down. Those of us that live close to work IMO should watch time more than miles. Synthetic would be a waste of money if changed at fifteen hundred miles

    Harry

    OR

    Tim is right. I do change it too often, but the oil and filter cost less than a tank of gas, and I do it myself. I won't go broke buying oil.

    Harry
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    you should bike it rather than drive it...In fact walking might be even better. Gives you more time to think of "better" responses, eh.....hehe
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    That may work on the Islands where it's nice 360 days of the year....but try that hear Pal!

    LOL

    hell...I fond myself jumping in the Ado just to go to the end of the block for Dairy Queen man!

    haha

    ...never found no girls there like Ryan though...

    ..and at least someone thinks I am right for once!

    BWHAAHHHAHAHHAHHAHHAHAA

    ..and yeah....if I changed at 1500 miles....heck no would I use Mobil 1....but when I let it slide sometimes to 8K or so.....you betcha I will be using it...

    ...as for "contamination" in short runs....?>...well...that's a whole 'nother talk around the camp fire with many beers my friends.....

    - Tim
  • amoralesamorales Posts: 196
    SHOE express, motorized Razor scooter, if larger scooter desired; VESPA, or 1958 Schwinn
    3 speed bicycle, have neighbor drop you off on way to his 80 mi commute. This will prevent severe sludge buildup on your terruk
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    I also drive six miles each way to work. But there's more to consider than distance traveled and frequency of change. Synthetic flows much better during winter conditions than regular oil. Two or three oil changes a year is cheap insurance, even if it does cost me $15 a change extra for Mobil 1.
  • one thing i had heard about synthetic is that it does not stay up on the cylinder walls as well when the engine is not running. then I had a friend that switched to synthetic and went out of town for a month.. when he got back and fired up that ranger, it smoked and rattled like a diesel. we assumed it was due to the synthetic.
    I have no idea..just asking..
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    if you asked me.
  • once it warmed up it was ok... just assumed the oil ran down off the walls... the truck is fine..
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    I worry about contamination, so I change it more often than necessary. I never have to add oil between changes so, wholesale (I own a shop) I pay less for oil and filters for a whole year than I paid for one tank of gas a few weeks ago when the price was up. Why do I recommend changing often? Oil is cheaper than parts, if the estimate for needing an oil change is wrong.

    I do ride a bycycle, but not at rush hour on the road to town from where I live. Gas and oil together are cheaper than the ER.

    I might use synthetic too, if I lived as far north as Erik.

    Harry
  • gimpyrxgimpyrx Posts: 198
    Run the first,and best!
    Oil,and oil filters.
    I use amsoil 0w30 & amsoil sdf-11 oil filter,at 1,800 miles.And had tranny serviced with amsoil ATF,16 quarts pumped in with a tranny pump station at 4,000 miles.It runs sweet!
  • what is the point of even using synthetics? It is a fact that a new Honda, Toyota, or similar foreign car has an engine life expectancy of a quarter million miles. Thats right folks, a Honda, any Honda engine, will last 225,000 miles with regular 5W-30 changed every 7500 miles. This is mathematical and this same figure has been derived numerous times by design and statistical analysts. It has to do with tolerances, petroleum dynamics, and physics- thats it.

    This is predicated on:

    1. change the timing belt every 60,000 miles, without fail. This is crucial. Change water pump with belt.

    2. use a $5 Honda oil filter or equivalent.

    3. maintain the following: NGK spark plugs every 30,000 and all the rubber parts in the engine- hoses, gaskets, and belts every 30,000 miles.

    Thats all you have to do to get 225,000 miles out of a Honda, or any Japanese engine built with the same tolerances as a Honda (not a kia or a daewoo).

    So, for the average person who drives 12,000 miles a year, this amounts to nearly 19 years of driving the same car. How many people that you know keep their car 19 years? Nobody- people use their car maybe 8 years and sell it. That means if you use synthetic, the next guy benefits from all the money you wasted.

    I have a 13 year old Honda that runs great and has always used regular oil, changed every 7500 miles. The car runs like new, but I'm tired of it- old body design, faded paint, and old, faded interior due to 13 years of sunlight.

    Conclusion: there is ABSOLUTELY NO POINT in using synthetic oil unless you are the 1% of people who keep their cars for 19 years and literally the day the engine seizes from longevity.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    Knowing people feel that way about it...

    I ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO MAKE IT A POINT to keep using it and selling every 2 years!!

    - Tim
This discussion has been closed.