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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

redhead777redhead777 Posts: 2
I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport club cab 4X4 V8 5 speed. It's a great truck but my A/C has died. I need my A/C it's way too hot here and I HATE to be hot. I have had the motor replaced, I have had the system recharged, I have had the dye put in to check for leaks TWICE, I have had all of the connections re-done and gaskets replaced. The dash board has been removed and we have found NOTHING WRONG except it blows HOT AIR. HELP!!!! I don't know what else it could be and the A/C specialist is baffled. If you know a solution your help would be MUCH APPRECIATED! Thanks in advance!


  • gillahoongillahoon Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 club cab v6 a cpl of mths ago my fan would only work on high. so i trough the switch was going badd. so last week it stoped working all together. so i guessed the switch went so i went and got a new one. put it in no fan so now i am thinking the fan is burnt out. so i take the fan out and for the help of it i put some live juice to it and it works. so i checked the fuese and dont see any blowen. so what could be wrong i reall dont want to take it some were to be fixed if i could do it myself any one got a idea.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Posts: 57
    This is an easy fix; it's too bad you didn't check the arhives. There is a variable resistor behind the glove box that needs to be changed. It is about a $12 part from your Dodge dealer and should only take a few mintes to change.

  • gillahoongillahoon Posts: 2
    were is it and what does it look like
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Posts: 57
    The location of the variable resistor varies by year. Some years are located on the firewall and others are behind or below the glove box. It was behind the glove box for 00. If you go to the dealer to get a new one they can show you on the microfiche the exact location. The resistor is 2" to 3" long about 1" high and 3/4" deep. You can check the archives for additional info as this has been discussed many times before.

  • mike133mike133 Posts: 13
    If your A/C specialist is baffled. I would take it somewhere else and start fresh and find out the problem. So do you have a leak? Your write up appears to indicate this. Is the problem, it will not hold a charge? It maybe a system component has failed,like a crack or fracture in a weld, compressor seals,could be a combinations of more than one problem. Just so you know the complete story. Question, what do you call an A/C specialist who graduated last in their class. Answer: An A/C specialist. Just something to remember with all professions. Proper Trouble shooting is a learned skill. Guessing and replacing parts is just that.
    I am not a A/C specialist. I am a Master Electrican with 30 plus years in the trade and I do not answer electrical questions on a truck forum. I was probably of no help to you, but just had to respond.
  • Thanks for responding. This is the second place I've taken the truck. The first was the dealership and they couldn't fix it either. There are no leaks, all seals have been changed and the charge is at full capacity. it STILL feels like a heater when you turn it on, blows consistant HOT air.
    It worked for a couple of days after he changed everything but that's all.
  • mike133mike133 Posts: 13
    If it worked for a couple of days and then quit. It must have a small leak and loosing the refrigerate charge. If the charge drops below a specific pressure the low pressure sensor will not let the Air compressor run. If the charge is still good, then the problem could be with other components such as, the low charge pressure sensor, electric air compressor clutch, electrical connections. When the system refrigerate charge is ok. The only reason it will blow consistant Hot air is because of only one of two issues I can think of. One the air compressor is not running/compressing the gas or the expansion valve is defective. This is all I know.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    If it blows hot air, is the air temp the same no matter where the temp control is set? It could be a problem with the blend air door control. Hot coolant always circulates through the heater core. If the blend air door is stuck in the "heat" position, you'll never get cold air.
  • landgraflandgraf Posts: 3
    2002 Dakota Ext.I'm getting water in the floor passender side. Happened last year I figure it must be condensation from AC. Anybody had this problem?
  • rusbrusb Posts: 1
    I found this on another web site.
    On the passenger side of the vehicle there is a drain hose that drains off any excess water,this is usually where the water you see dripping in the summer time is coming from.Locate the hose and run a coat hanger or something up in it easily.They can become clogged with a moldy type substance and this will restrict the drainage.You will have to look to find it.It should be aroung the passenger side firewall.
  • handymexhandymex Posts: 5
    Hi members,

    My truck needs the evaporator core replaced. I took it to the mechanic and he quoted me about $500. I know for some this amount of money may sound expensive,but I have been reading about this topic in WWW.DODGEDAKOTAS.COM and it seems that the price I was quoted is pretty reasonable.

    Being so handy at pretty much everything,including working on my own cars, here is the dollar million questions?

    Do you think I should replace evaporator core myself?

    Some members at suggested that replacing the evaporator is not an easy job. Other members suggested that replacing the evaporator core can be done if all the necessary steps are taken.

    Since I live in Michigan, we only have one more month of warm weather before things start to cool off a little. I was thinking of replacing the evaporator myself before the summer season ends or wait until next year and paid the pros to do it for me.

    As always, your opinion, suggestions and advice will always be greatly appreciated.


  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    In a past life as a mechanic I would fearlessly tear into anything under the dash. No way would I go into anything under the dash on a modern vehicle......find a good pro and pay them. The pain in the hip pocket only lasts a little while!! :)
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    I had the heater core on my 02 replaced this past spring. It was about $600. Pretty much the same amount of labor required for the evaporator. It is a major PITA. I would gladly pay someone else to do it.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    With Dakotas, there generally only two things that cause that problem: 1) the AC drain hose being plugged and the condensation running out the floor vents; 2) a leaky windshield seal. Water on the passenger side floor, is a surprisingly common problem.
  • handymexhandymex Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,

    The evaporator core on my 1996 Dodge Dakota needs to be replace. Because the amount of money mechanics charge to do this type of job, I want to replace the eveaporator core myself.

    Some people say that when it comes with evaporator cores only the pros should deal with them. Again, because of the price of this job, I want to do it myself.

    Does anyone have a step by step guide that can share with me for this kind of job. Recently I found a how to remove the eveporator core step by step guide,but I think it was written for a newer model Dodge Dakota.

    Your help on this subject will alwasy be greatly appreciated.


    Handymex :confuse:
  • I have a 99 dakota. A/C works fine initially , but after 10 min. air becomes hot. I'm trying to troubleshoot blind ( no manual) and notice that 2 electrical connections to the compressor area ( i'm guessing 1 to be the compressed gas sensor ) both maintain 12v. Or should I just say HELP..where do I look for this problem.
  • i have a 97 dodge dakota and i havent used or movied it much in the past year. so in the winter a mouse made its way into the blower motor and made a nest and now when ever i turn the AC or heater on, it smells like nasty mouse smell. i tried to get at the blower motor under the glovebox but i dont really know how. could you help me with this? or do i have to bring it into a shop? thankyou very much.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    To get the blower out, you have to remove the whole dashboard. It is a major PITA. About 6 hrs of labor by the book.
  • ok, thanks. is there a way i can make the smell far less noticeable? it would really help me out if i could get info. thank you very much.
  • My A/C only comes on if I turn the knob over to high. If it's not on high the light, and fan turn off as if the unit is turned off. Any advice on how to correct this problem would really be appreciated! Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you even read the archives? (I guess not... or you would not be asking this question)

    HINT: If fan only runs on high - replace the blower resistor. (This "fix" holds true for any automobile on the planet)
  • :blush: i have a similar problem. the fan just quit working. I see you mentioned looking in the archives. Where do I find them?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The "search" function will look in the archives at one fell swoop. (The advanced search features allows you to narrow in on just the Dakota forums)
  • mrzegmrzeg Posts: 2
    My son has a 01 Dakota 4x4 4.7 liter.
    His fan only works on High won't work at the other speeds. He does get heat.
    I need help locating the blower motor.
    Is it in the engine compartment or inside the truck?
    I have read there is a resistor that may be bad.
    Where would I find this resistor? Is it attached to the blower motor or is it in the fuse box.
    Last am I on the right track or is it something else.
    Please thanks for the help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your problem of the blower only working on "high" is well known. Just replace the "blower motor resistor".

    Search for "blower motor resistor" in the archives and you will find all the details.
  • landgraflandgraf Posts: 3
    The Part was about $12 bucks and took 10 minutes to replace.

  • davisstedavisste Posts: 2
    I have a 4 cyl 98 Dakota Ext Cab Sport. Recently a vapor started coming out of the air ducts regardless of whether the air is on or off. There is no visable smoke/vapor in the engine compartment, so I think it is within the system itself. The vapor smells like antifreeze. I am wondering what could be the problem?
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