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Dodge Dakota Climate Control



  • For Terrys2:

    Everything you said is pretty much what I know. The reason I described the ports and their location is because I'm seeing a bit of paradox here:

    You wrote:
    "the fitting should only fit the low pressure fitting"

    I just checked (as a "dry run") and noted that the fitting only fit on one of the 2 ports, as you said. But guess what? It was the one "directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter" and that tube happens to be the smaller one! This being the case, one would think this is on the high-pressure side, which in not where one would typically add refrigerant.

    In terms of my location descriptions, can you (or anyone) confirm which port is "the one":

    * one near the compressor itself
    * one directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter

    You'd pretty much have to know the '97 Dakota (or be able to look under the hood).

    I did, btw, confirm that the total charge is 32oz (2lb).
  • Maybe someone else here can confirm the fitting location specific to your vehicle. However if you have a fill kit it should only fit the low pressure side. Since your other fitting does not fit the fill hose I believe you must have the right fitting by the air filter. When you say leading to the air filter I assume you to mean near the air filter as the AC lines would never connect to the air filter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To determine which is the HIGH or LOW pressure side of the system... just look at the plumbing.

    The HIGH pressure side goes from the AC pump, to the condenser. (looks like radiator in front of vechicle) and into reciever/drier (looks like coke can) then into firewall

    The LOW pressure side comes from firewall, and into the AC pump.

    While charging, you should to have guages installed and take constant readings to determine operation and charge-level.

    This website has a quick overview.

    If you do not understand how AC system works... perhaps you should not be messen with it. :blush:
  • i have a 1995 dodge dakota and i was warming it up one morning and the fan quit working when i turned on the wipers to clear the windshield i have checked the fuses and there all good..what is the problem
  • The same thing happen to me with myh 1993 Dodge Dakota truck. It turned out to be blower motor resister, costing $12.oo, plus half hour labor.
  • I believe he said the blower would not work on any speed. Usually when the resistor goes out the fan will still run on high. If the fan will not run on any speed and the fuse is good I would check the fan switch first.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Terry, that's true unless the resistor got too hot and melted the plastic around the electrical connector body. Sometimes the melted plastic fills the terminal cavity in the connector. After it cools and the plastic has hardened, there is no longer a connection.

  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Yes, I agree. And if that is the case you probably can't get the connector off of the resistor and you will have to buy a new connector with wires and splice it in.
  • thanks for that imput i had a friend of mine thats a machanic check it for me and it was the switch
  • mogtelmogtel Posts: 3
    During the last cold snap, (15 degrees and below), at 1800 rpm and about 60 mph, I got an engine noise that sounded like a ringing or whizzing sound. My first thought was that it could be a bearing in the A/C compressor or idler pulley, or anternator. Can't hear it sitting still or revving the engine. I had "Chassis Ear" the I used to no avail. I've talked with other owners who have the same noise who indicate that the noise goes away in warmer weather. Any ideas out there. Thanks in advance. Charlie
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    I 'm glad I steered you in the right direction and that you found the problem.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have had occasion when my POWER STEERING PUMP would make a gear-meshing sound in colder weather. It turnd out that the fluid-level was a tad low and the pump would occasionaly suck air and make the noise.

    Not sure if this is what you are hearing or not...
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Just a thought, but you may have a loose exhaust system. Check the condition of the exhaust system clamps. In the Northeast, they have a tendency to rust away after a while and loosen up. Although this usually causes rattling noisdes over bumps and stuff, on mine I would occasionally hear a sound that I would label as "ringing."

    I've gotta say, the clamp Dodge uses is pretty robust. In fact, I was never able to find an aftermarket replacement that was anywhere near the size and heft of the original. The ones that AutoZone carry are way too whimpy.

    Best regards,
  • mogtelmogtel Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply,,,,,,I'd checked all that.Everything seems ok in that area.
  • mogtelmogtel Posts: 3
    That looks ok...the sound is similar to a bearing going bad, but now that it's warming up a bid it seems to have disappeared for now. Thanks,
  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    My 98 Dakota 3.9 V6 has a problem with stalling when the engine revs and quickly returns to idle. I have changed out the idle speed control module under the injector body and no change. Now that they have tried that and run out of answers, the mechanics are saying I need to go to the dealer and have the computer re-flashed. Sounds like bunk. Computer's only got one set of instructions and the problem is sporadic but getting more frequent. When I restart the truck it fires immediately, but sometimes runs and sometimes dies several times before it settles down. Any ideas? Thanks!!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, a number of things could cause this, but if you've checked everything else I'd suspect a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator.

    Have you cleaned and checked the Idle Speed Motor and pintle?

  • ldogldog Posts: 3
    HI . my heater and air cond only put out at top of dash no face or feet . reading other blogs must be risistor ? but where is location? thank you LEONARD.
  • Leonard,

    I have the same issue with my 98 Dakota. Please keep me updated if you receive an answer to this. I am not even sure the A/C works at this point as it all blows out the defrost vent.


  • the blower is located behind the glove box..i have heat just no blower and its a 95 dakota
  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    2K Dakota Slut Truck 4.7L Auto 4wd 168K miles I have an unusual blower problem with the heater/AC. It always seems to work when I first start the truck. If I stop after a while and then restart after a short while, the fan will not work at any speed. With the AC on, one can detect that the compressor is working, and cool air will come from the vents at speed. At highway speeds, the fan generally will come on after a while.

    I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?

    Anyone have any ideas? Jim
  • ldogldog Posts: 3
    4/12/09 3:05 pm I just found out the resistor is located under hood . to get to it you have to remove wiper blades then remove cowl plenum cover/ panel from the cowl top. through crowl panel access hole two hex screws to blower motor resistor . I have the resistor but can't put in till tomorow .will let you know how this works. Leonard-ldog.
  • ldogldog Posts: 3
    replaced resistor but still not working , air and heat through defrost but nothing through face or feet . what can it be? HELP !!! ldog .
  • moretinmoretin Posts: 5
    Go to message 112 and 113, I think this will help you. I had the same problem. My truck was 1993 Dakota.
  • jfunstonjfunston Posts: 3
    We have a 2004 Dodge Dakota, and whenever we run the AC, the truck overheats very quickly. When the AC, or heater is running, the AC Compressor motor kicks on, and off, repeatedly. I don't know if this is normal or not. I can see it spin, and suddenly stop for 30-45 seconds, then start spinning again.
  • texdodgetexdodge Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 98 Dakota 4 Cyl. and I just repaired the A/C and now I am overheating at stop lights and in traffic. Any help would be appreciated. I haven't had the A/C running for about 9 years but I replaced the Evaporator and Condenser about 3 days ago. Maybe it is related? HELP? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is normal for the AC compressor clutch to kick in and out based on the measurements from the pressure-sensors within the AC system. If I recall correctly, when the LOW pressure sensor senses the pressure get too high, the AC clutch disenguages the compressor.

    In addition to the obvious AC settings, there are some "defrost" settings which also turn on the AC system. With this in mind, I almost NEVER put the selector in those positions to keep from loading the engine and consuming more fuel. I usually keep the selector in the "blow on the feet" setting just to have some air flowing thru the cab while NOT enguaging the AC.

    As for your engine overheating with the AC on... make CERTAIN that the electric fan is running ALL THE TIME while the AC is enguaged.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Running the AC generates heat which must be removed through the condenser and the radiator. If you have a new condenser it should be ok. Did you check the radiator/condenser area to be sure it is clear of bugs, leaves or anything else that can block the air flow? Id the factory fan shroud all there and in place? Does the fan run when the AC is on? If not check the fuse and the relay. Hot wire the fan to be sure it runs. Is the cooling system free of rust etc. that can clog the system? You can try back flushing the radiator with a garden hose. Or you can take the radiator to a shop the see if it is flowing correctly and not plugged up.
  • jfunstonjfunston Posts: 3
    Just wanted to confirm. The electric fan, which is located just behind the rad/condensor - should run at all times when the AC is on? It hasn't come on at all. I replaced the fuse, and relay (the old relay looked burned), but it still doesn't come on at all.
    As well, regarding the motor/clutch- it kicks on and off at least once a minute, or less- is that frequency normal?

    Any suggestions about the fan? I'm going to hotwire it to test the fan itself, see if it even works.


    2004 dodge dakota, v6
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Yes the fan should come on when the control is set to AC or defrost. My guess is a bad fan if you have replaced the fuse & relay. Hot wiring will tell you if it works or not. If the fan works you may have a wiring problem.

    The compressor will cycle on & off depending on a number of variables. Get a thermometer with a 6" or so long probe and put it in the dash vent. Again there are variables but you should get somewhere between 35 and 50 degrees (set on recirc. or max AC) if the AC is working ok. If the temp is higher it might need freon. Your cycle frequency sounds ok.
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