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Dodge Dakota Climate Control



  • Listen, for $12 go get the part from a Dodge dealer, Part Number 5174618AA. The plug is right under the glove compartment. Get someone on the small side to pull the plug. The only thing tricky about it at all is that there's a red slide mechanism on the plug that has to be pushed over to get the plug out. Once the plug is out you can test the fix by plugging the new part in just to see if the blower will work. It is REALLY a 3 minute ordeal that costs $12. If you need to replace the resistor it is TWO screws that are a little tough to get at, but not that hard. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 5/16 socket.
  • jethro1jethro1 Posts: 1
    Just curious, My 2001 quad Cab's blower stopped working recently. I'm just new on this site and after having read most of these archives, I was wondering if there were any possible fuses I should try replacing first before I go out and purchase this harness assy. Any help is appreciated.
  • I could not find a fuse that was specifically for the blower. There are fuses labeled for the AC. I put my AC on briefly without the blower moving and you could tell that the AC wanted to work. All that I can say is that after reading as many forums and posts as I did, the resistor was the obvious thing to check. Here's a link to a blog I found regarding the blower and it shows some pictures of the area under the dash that might be helpful if you want to check the resistor.
  • The A/C on my 2002 dakota just quit working. I check the unit for freon R134 and its good. I found that if I ground the ground wire on the pressure switch it works fine very cold!!!! Is there anything that would do this?? Any help with this would be great.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Does the A/C compressor cycle on and off a lot?

  • No it is not clycleing I have check charge and the pressure is good. I found that if I ground the at the presssure valve it will work, Like the relay is not getting a ground. As you may have seen in the trans message board I.m haveing a trans issue also. limp mode. possable ground prounum in system? But where?

  • The blower motor quit on my 03 Dakota while I was in Afghanistan last year. My wife took it in and got it fixed. Now, less than a year later, it's out again. I took it back to the same shop, and they told me the resistor and harness need replacing, and they want $266 to do it. I found a schematic online of where the resistor is, but I don't know how to find the harness. I'm a moron when it comes to this sort of thing, but I'm confident if someone could point out where the harness is, I could buy the parts and do this myself. Thanks.
  • Check previous posts. I think #s 56 & 63. I don't think you need a harness but just the repair kit if the connector is burned or melted. Be sure to use the heavy wire that comes with the kit.
  • when I turn the dial control on the dash to blow heat or air straight out from the dash vents hardly any air is felt coming from the vents, seems to be fine when you turn it to defrost or onto the floor, seems like something is not being activated, any ideas?? this is on a 2002 quad cab dakota
  • I have changed the water pump, thermostat, hoses and of course the coolant, and truck is still overheating. Here is something I heard that might cause this. I am from Louisiana, where the truck was bought and I moved to Wyoming. Would the elevation change cause truck to overheat? To me it sounds far fetched. Thanx
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Not with a functioning cooling system.

    You did not say which engine you have... if it is the 4.7L Semi-Hemi, make CERTAIN you used the proper bypass thermostat. The wrong one may fit but will not work correctly.

    Also, you may wish to do a leakdown test to make sure the cooling system is not leaking internally. (inside the enigne) Are you noticing any antifreeze loss?

    Also, dont forget that the waterpump on the 4.7L Semi-Hemi spins the OPPOSITE way of other engines... the routing of the belt is important! (it is possible to route belt wrong way so waterpump spins backwards)
  • It's a 4.7L. There is no coolant loss. I have belt on according to diagram under hood. One thing I have noticed is one side of radiator is hot (right side) while left is cool, that is while I'm standing facing truck. As for the thermostat, it's a 195 degree same as the one I took out, but did not buy it at Dodge Dealer. The spring on thermostat is in engine so to speak. Also my wife pulled our 24' Travel Trailer up here to Wyoming from La with the truck, but ever since then it has been overheating, so I made the changes but that did not help. Thanx
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Sounds like a vacuum problem. Do you notice the air also going to the floor even when set on dash when you go from a steady speed to accelerating? If so it could be a broken vacuum line under the hood or the vacuum motor that moves the door for the dash air.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The fact that you noted that one side of the radiator is signigicantly cooler than the other side points to a problmem with lack of coolant FLOW.

    Do not forget that the 4.7L semi-hemi uses a BYPASS cooling system. This is noted by the fact that the thermostat is mounted LOW on the engine (not at the top of it) This type of cooling system ALWAYS flows coolant thru the engine past the thermostat. One end of the thermostat 'senses' the temparture of this engine flow and the other end of it 'throttles' the flow of coolant out of the radiator and precesicely mixes it into the hot engine coolant. This is why using a 'normal' thermostat will really mess up the cooling system because it does not have the ability to perform this function.

    Here are a couple of other things to think about;
    Does the heater put out heat?
    Did you "burp" the air out of the cooling system using the special valve at the high point of the cooling system? (above power-steering resivour on radiator plumbing)

    BTW (for future reference): It is worldwide standard to speak of "right" and "left" side of a vehicle based on the point of view from sitting in the drivers seat. (not standing in front of it facing it)

    For example: The right headlight is the one on the PASSENGERS side.
  • Mr., Peebles
    I wanted to let you know that through your advice my truck is now back on the road. I did the burp thing as you advised, put an identical thermostat in truck to the one I took out, and all is well with my Dakota. Sir, I appreciate all the advice/help you gave in getting my truck fixed. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH. I do have one more question. Why is the 4.7L called a semi hemi?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    That is an easy to answer question...

    First of all, lets review why an engine would be called a "Hemi" in the first place. The term "Hemi" is slang for "Hemisperical". In a piston engine, the area from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder head by the valve heads is known as the combustion chamber (this is actually just an area of air!). The combustion chamber on most overhead valved AUTOMOTIVE engines are either wedge shaped (think of a piece of pie) or hemispherical (think of tennis ball cut in half). The cylinder head design dictates the combustion area shape, so when someone says "hemi", it really only refers to the engine's cylinder head having a hemispherically shaped combustion chamber.

    Hemi heads have the spark plug located at dead center of the combustion chamber, which makes for an extremely efficient & powerful fuel/air mixing & flame burn (actual igniting of the fuel/air). Hemi heads also have ideal valve placement to help the flow of air (intake & exhaust) through the cylinder head. In simple terms, the head design is VERY efficient, and allows an engine to make excellent power! On the downside, hemi heads themselves usually are quite heavy & large, and valvetrains can be somewhat complex (read: expensive).

    The 4.7L engine is a "semi Hemi" because the head is almost a perfect sphere... except for a small bump.

    Here are some links which further describe the 4.7L semi-hemi
  • Mr., Peebles
    Thanx for the explanation on the engine. My wife said to tell you Thanx very much for the help in getting our truck fixed. Again, Thank You.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    As an aside to Bpeebles excellent explanation, when Chrysler first developed the "semi-hemi" combustion chamber in the 1950s, they were referred to as polyspherical engines, meaning they used a combination of wedge and hemispherical designs.

  • Hello all
    94 dakota 318 w/air 2wd
    short story... blower motor worked only on high. then it didn't work at all. the way it happened i'm pretty sure it is the speed control. checked resistance on it but without documentation for the terminals....
    help me please!!!!
  • It's your fuse relays. My blower wouldn't even work. Mine was on the outside firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side.
    I hope that helps.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Check the Blower resistor - that is the most common failure for blower motor issues. It is the resistor which determines all the fanspeeds.
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    HI- I have a '94 dakota and had the same problem had the heater/ defrost on and it just stopped blowing. Have searched the archives and did as suggested. Replaced the resister (only $7). Didn't fix the problem, so then I pulled out and tested the blower motor. Tested fine as well (but Hubby replaced it anyway ($60)). But at last it still will not work. Any other suggestions. It is so cold we need it daily.

  • I would be rather shocked that the resistor replacement didn't fix the problem. Try pulling out the resistor and putting it back in a few times to engage the pins. I would also suggest checking the new resistor to make certain that the new part wasn't defective. And, I would suggest describing the complete scenario of what/how much of functionality you have, when and how it stopped working, etc. There are some really savey people on this forum that can trouble shoot based on a very concise description of the problem. And definitely check ALL fuses that could be related (in the regular fuse panel, as well as, the panel in the engine compartment). Good Luck.
  • Try wiggling the wires as they go into the connector at the resistor. Do this for all fan speeds. The wires where they crimp onto the terminals in the connector can burn into. It is hard to see this down in the connector. If the blower tries to run when the wires are wiggled you need to install a replacement connector. Be sure to use the largest wires that come with the new connector.
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    I was driving the fan was on high on the defrost setting, then it simply stopped blowing.

    There is no functionality at all. It does not blow any air out on any speed or setting even on AC.

    I tried 4-5 times to pull the resistor out to engage the pins with no luck. I also wiggled the wires at the resistor on all fan speeds more time than I can count and still nothing.

    When i hard wired the blower motor directly to the battery it turns just fine. :confuse:
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    Thanks for the hekp everyone. Got it fixed. The fuse for the blower motor in the fuse box in the cab of the truck had melted in. So thought we were going to have to replace the whole fuse box, What happend was the previous owner (an electricain) had bypassed the fuse box for the fuse to the blower motor. The new fuse was under the dash hiding behind the fuse box.

    This after we replace the resistor, & blower motor. ANd then took it in to a shop. SO it ended up being a $110 fuse.

    At least now we know where the fuse is.
  • My vent/defrost selector seems to be stuck in the defrost and vent mode. It will not allow any warm air to go to the feet. It doesn't matter where I have the selector, it will only come out of the defroster and vents. It is kind of annoying driving down the road roasting but having your feet freezing. How does the system work and what should I be looking for?
  • meham2meham2 Posts: 1
    the selector switch for my ac/heat/defrost is stuck on defrost and will not switch to anything else. blower motor works fine. any suggestions?
  • If I remember on the 98 the vent gates are vacume controlled. If you have no vacume or not enough to the controller it will not switch over to the cold side. Also check the heat control and see that it is moving the heater control valve.

  • I have a 2002 dakota 4.7 . i was out 4 by 4 when i heard a clicling noise in the front end . i thinks its the front axle . anyone have any advise for me thanks
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