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Comments
Thanks!
may get warn out with use. Also, any oil has been spilled onto these friction-surfaces can reduce their effectiveness too.
I beleive the friction plates on the AC clutch are replacable... this may restore like-new performance . I beleive NAPA has the AC clutch for under $100.
Another check you can do is to pull the connector off of the AC-clutch and use an ohmmeter.... if it has infinate resistance, then the coil is bad.
kcram - Pickups Host
Everything includes: Retrofit (r134),low pressure switch, O rings, and curcuit breaker.
I received the wiring kit from Dodge for my resistor card plug. Can you tell me which gauge wires go into which hole in the new plug. My new wires are green and purple with the green being the larger of the two. The old plug appears to have only one small wire (brown). My email is BOOMER632@HOTMAIL.COM.
Thanks...
Ken
Thanks.....
I think you'll find that the pins on the resistor block are overheating due to a resistance at the pin connection itself. If you've replaced the connector using the kit (PN #5017124-AA) you neede to be cognizant that two of the larger gauge wires needed to be used at pins 1 and 2. These correspond to the two 12 gauge wires on the motor side. Also, most people use wire crimps instead of soldering like the kit instructions suggest. I hate to say this, but they need to be solder to ensure a zero resistance loss at the connection.
There is a problem with the kit, however, and I've notified Chrysler that the actual wire size in pins 1 & 2 of the motor connector are 12 gauge, but the kit only contains 14 and 16 gauge wires. Chrysler has another kit for the B-series vans that contain 12 gauge wires, but its not the one thet call out for the Dakota.
Good luck,
Dusty
i have finally got the new blower resistor however when i tried to replace the old one it had melted in the connector. After much prying i managed to separate the 2. i noticed that pins 2 and 3 on the resistor had melted a bit. I removed the melted plastic from the inside of the connector and tried the old resistor and the blower worked on all settings. So as i see it something is supplying too much voltage to those pins and causing it to melt and break the connection. As to the wires that go to the connector i have already replaced them with a heavier gauge wire that matches the wires coming from the blower motor. I was wondering if u had any ideas what would be causing the higher voltage to melt the plastic. thanks....
Within a week of purchasing my Dakota brand-new. I pulled off EVERY ground connection I could find under the hood and SOLDERD the wire to the sta-kon. I also filed the paint from under the connection to get the very best ground-connection.
Whatever you do - DO NOT reuse that old connector. The overheating has changed the spring-rate on the internal connectors and also coated them with non-conductive copper-oxide.
A new connector plugged into shiny-clean resistor-connector will resolve your problem. If you REALLY want a long-lasting repair.... stop by RadioShack and pick up deoxIT
Lets review... the resistors are mounted INSIDE the air-plenum where the fan is supposed to be constantly blowing air over it (keeping it cool) Note that there is no way to turn OFF the fan completely per federal law of constant airflow thru all automobiles.
If there is an obstruction in the air-plenum, then the reduced airflow may cause the resistors to overheat.
Also - If the blower motor itself has a problem (like the bearings starting to get stiff) then the blower motor will draw more current AND blow less air. These 2 things added together can easilly burn out the resistors.
If you used the Chrysler kit, the wires should be orange. Are any of the wires indicating that the insulation is overheating, i.e: turning dark brown?
If so, which pins?
Regards,
Dusty
Omen
does anyone know where i can find a diagram of the vacuum system? and what the pressures are ? mostly interested in the damper under the dash mine wont switch from the defroster.
Regards,
Dusty
Don't have any suggestions regarding the lights, however one thing that is common to both is the Central Timer Module.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
With respect to vehicle ground (frame & body), which is negative, power is delivered to the Heater Blower Motor at pin 1. DC power gets to the A/C-Heater Control Switches via the Blower Motor Resistor at pin 2. The circuit is as follows:
1. Fuse #13 (40 ampere) in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) located under the hood next to the battery
GOES TO
2. Ignition Switch pin 1, then comes out pin 2 (run position)
GOES TO
3. Heater Blower Motor pin 1. DC power goes through the motor at pin 2.
GOES TO
4. Blower Motor Resistor Block at pin 2 (DC in). The resistor is located next to the Heater Blower Motor. The black blower motor wires will go to it. DC power goes through the three (3) resistors (pins 3, 4, & 5), plus passes through without resistance at pin 1 of the resistor block.
GOES TO
5. The A/C-Heater Control Switch
Pin 1 resistor block - to - pin 10 of the heater control switch (high position)
Pin 3 resistor block - to - pin 3 of the heater control switch (not so high position)
Pin 4 resistor block - to - pin 7 heater control switch (medium position)
Pin 5 resistor block - to - pin 2 heater control switch (low position)
Pin 8 of the Heater Control Switch is 12 VDC for the panel illumination lamps.
Pin 5 of the Heater Control Switch goes to ground.
The most common cause of blower failure on Dakotas of your vintage is the resistor block, a very common problem. I would recommend removing the resistor block, which is mounted to AC/Heater box next to the blower by two screws. I suspect you will observe signs of pins and wires overheating at the connector. This will need to be repaired. The resistor is part number 5174618-AA and a connector repair kit is (was) 5017124-AA. If the resistor displays signs of overheating, you'll probably need both.
Stay warm up there in Alaska!
Best regards,
Dusty
I don't know why I thought you were in Alaska, but good luck.
Regards,
dusty
Without actually using a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to take measurements, the answer to your question is "perhaps".
It could be the motor, harness, resistor or a mouse stuck in the fanblades (Yes, I have seen it happen!).... Without actually troubleshooting the problem, it could be anything.
I had mine replaced at a local garage for $47.00. One half hour labor and a $12.00 part (resistor) and I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota. It's worth not having this probleml the middle of winter.
I need to check the pressure and possibly add. I understand this is to be done w/ engine running and AC set to MAX. I also understand that this is to be done on the low pressure (liquid?) side.
I found 2 ports w/ black plastic cap:
one near the compressor itself
one directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter
Which one is the port I need to use (or are they essentially on the same circuit) ?
I understand that the capacity for R134A on this model is 32oz.
Any help is appreciated.
The cheap fill kits at the auto store have the right fitting and the guage gives you the pressure range on the guage,
If the freon will not go in or is going in very slow you can put the can in a pan of hot water to raise the pressure in the can and make the freon go in faster. Turn the valve off so the guage will show the pressure in the systen instead of the pressure in the can. And yes have the truck running with the AC & fan set on high/max.