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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

redhead777redhead777 Member Posts: 2
edited August 2018 in Dodge
I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport club cab 4X4 V8 5 speed. It's a great truck but my A/C has died. I need my A/C it's way too hot here and I HATE to be hot. I have had the motor replaced, I have had the system recharged, I have had the dye put in to check for leaks TWICE, I have had all of the connections re-done and gaskets replaced. The dash board has been removed and we have found NOTHING WRONG except it blows HOT AIR. HELP!!!! I don't know what else it could be and the A/C specialist is baffled. If you know a solution your help would be MUCH APPRECIATED! Thanks in advance!
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Comments

  • gillahoongillahoon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 club cab v6 a cpl of mths ago my fan would only work on high. so i trough the switch was going badd. so last week it stoped working all together. so i guessed the switch went so i went and got a new one. put it in no fan so now i am thinking the fan is burnt out. so i take the fan out and for the help of it i put some live juice to it and it works. so i checked the fuese and dont see any blowen. so what could be wrong i reall dont want to take it some were to be fixed if i could do it myself any one got a idea.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    This is an easy fix; it's too bad you didn't check the arhives. There is a variable resistor behind the glove box that needs to be changed. It is about a $12 part from your Dodge dealer and should only take a few mintes to change.

    Ron35
  • gillahoongillahoon Member Posts: 2
    were is it and what does it look like
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    The location of the variable resistor varies by year. Some years are located on the firewall and others are behind or below the glove box. It was behind the glove box for 00. If you go to the dealer to get a new one they can show you on the microfiche the exact location. The resistor is 2" to 3" long about 1" high and 3/4" deep. You can check the archives for additional info as this has been discussed many times before.

    Ron35
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    If your A/C specialist is baffled. I would take it somewhere else and start fresh and find out the problem. So do you have a leak? Your write up appears to indicate this. Is the problem, it will not hold a charge? It maybe a system component has failed,like a crack or fracture in a weld, compressor seals,could be a combinations of more than one problem. Just so you know the complete story. Question, what do you call an A/C specialist who graduated last in their class. Answer: An A/C specialist. Just something to remember with all professions. Proper Trouble shooting is a learned skill. Guessing and replacing parts is just that.
    I am not a A/C specialist. I am a Master Electrican with 30 plus years in the trade and I do not answer electrical questions on a truck forum. I was probably of no help to you, but just had to respond.
  • redhead777redhead777 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding. This is the second place I've taken the truck. The first was the dealership and they couldn't fix it either. There are no leaks, all seals have been changed and the charge is at full capacity. it STILL feels like a heater when you turn it on, blows consistant HOT air.
    It worked for a couple of days after he changed everything but that's all.
  • mike133mike133 Member Posts: 13
    If it worked for a couple of days and then quit. It must have a small leak and loosing the refrigerate charge. If the charge drops below a specific pressure the low pressure sensor will not let the Air compressor run. If the charge is still good, then the problem could be with other components such as, the low charge pressure sensor, electric air compressor clutch, electrical connections. When the system refrigerate charge is ok. The only reason it will blow consistant Hot air is because of only one of two issues I can think of. One the air compressor is not running/compressing the gas or the expansion valve is defective. This is all I know.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    If it blows hot air, is the air temp the same no matter where the temp control is set? It could be a problem with the blend air door control. Hot coolant always circulates through the heater core. If the blend air door is stuck in the "heat" position, you'll never get cold air.
  • landgraflandgraf Member Posts: 3
    2002 Dakota Ext.I'm getting water in the floor passender side. Happened last year I figure it must be condensation from AC. Anybody had this problem?
  • rusbrusb Member Posts: 1
    I found this on another web site.
    On the passenger side of the vehicle there is a drain hose that drains off any excess water,this is usually where the water you see dripping in the summer time is coming from.Locate the hose and run a coat hanger or something up in it easily.They can become clogged with a moldy type substance and this will restrict the drainage.You will have to look to find it.It should be aroung the passenger side firewall.
  • handymexhandymex Member Posts: 5
    Hi members,

    My truck needs the evaporator core replaced. I took it to the mechanic and he quoted me about $500. I know for some this amount of money may sound expensive,but I have been reading about this topic in WWW.DODGEDAKOTAS.COM and it seems that the price I was quoted is pretty reasonable.

    Being so handy at pretty much everything,including working on my own cars, here is the dollar million questions?

    Do you think I should replace evaporator core myself?

    Some members at www.dodgedakotas.com suggested that replacing the evaporator is not an easy job. Other members suggested that replacing the evaporator core can be done if all the necessary steps are taken.

    Since I live in Michigan, we only have one more month of warm weather before things start to cool off a little. I was thinking of replacing the evaporator myself before the summer season ends or wait until next year and paid the pros to do it for me.

    As always, your opinion, suggestions and advice will always be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,

    Handymex
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    In a past life as a mechanic I would fearlessly tear into anything under the dash. No way would I go into anything under the dash on a modern vehicle......find a good pro and pay them. The pain in the hip pocket only lasts a little while!! :)
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I had the heater core on my 02 replaced this past spring. It was about $600. Pretty much the same amount of labor required for the evaporator. It is a major PITA. I would gladly pay someone else to do it.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    With Dakotas, there generally only two things that cause that problem: 1) the AC drain hose being plugged and the condensation running out the floor vents; 2) a leaky windshield seal. Water on the passenger side floor, is a surprisingly common problem.
  • handymexhandymex Member Posts: 5
  • handymexhandymex Member Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,

    The evaporator core on my 1996 Dodge Dakota needs to be replace. Because the amount of money mechanics charge to do this type of job, I want to replace the eveaporator core myself.

    Some people say that when it comes with evaporator cores only the pros should deal with them. Again, because of the price of this job, I want to do it myself.

    Does anyone have a step by step guide that can share with me for this kind of job. Recently I found a how to remove the eveporator core step by step guide,but I think it was written for a newer model Dodge Dakota.

    Your help on this subject will alwasy be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,

    Handymex :confuse:
  • 03dakota03dakota Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 dakota. A/C works fine initially , but after 10 min. air becomes hot. I'm trying to troubleshoot blind ( no manual) and notice that 2 electrical connections to the compressor area ( i'm guessing 1 to be the compressed gas sensor ) both maintain 12v. Or should I just say HELP..where do I look for this problem.
  • milkman188867milkman188867 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 97 dodge dakota and i havent used or movied it much in the past year. so in the winter a mouse made its way into the blower motor and made a nest and now when ever i turn the AC or heater on, it smells like nasty mouse smell. i tried to get at the blower motor under the glovebox but i dont really know how. could you help me with this? or do i have to bring it into a shop? thankyou very much.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    To get the blower out, you have to remove the whole dashboard. It is a major PITA. About 6 hrs of labor by the book.
  • milkman188867milkman188867 Member Posts: 3
  • milkman188867milkman188867 Member Posts: 3
    ok, thanks. is there a way i can make the smell far less noticeable? it would really help me out if i could get info. thank you very much.
  • maniac02maniac02 Member Posts: 2
    My A/C only comes on if I turn the knob over to high. If it's not on high the light, and fan turn off as if the unit is turned off. Any advice on how to correct this problem would really be appreciated! Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Have you even read the archives? (I guess not... or you would not be asking this question)

    HINT: If fan only runs on high - replace the blower resistor. (This "fix" holds true for any automobile on the planet)
  • davison811davison811 Member Posts: 1
    :blush: i have a similar problem. the fan just quit working. I see you mentioned looking in the archives. Where do I find them?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "search" function will look in the archives at one fell swoop. (The advanced search features allows you to narrow in on just the Dakota forums)
  • mrzegmrzeg Member Posts: 2
  • mrzegmrzeg Member Posts: 2
    My son has a 01 Dakota 4x4 4.7 liter.
    His fan only works on High won't work at the other speeds. He does get heat.
    I need help locating the blower motor.
    Is it in the engine compartment or inside the truck?
    I have read there is a resistor that may be bad.
    Where would I find this resistor? Is it attached to the blower motor or is it in the fuse box.
    Last am I on the right track or is it something else.
    Please thanks for the help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your problem of the blower only working on "high" is well known. Just replace the "blower motor resistor".

    Search for "blower motor resistor" in the archives and you will find all the details.
  • landgraflandgraf Member Posts: 3
    Thanks;
    The Part was about $12 bucks and took 10 minutes to replace.

    Joe
  • davisstedavisste Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4 cyl 98 Dakota Ext Cab Sport. Recently a vapor started coming out of the air ducts regardless of whether the air is on or off. There is no visable smoke/vapor in the engine compartment, so I think it is within the system itself. The vapor smells like antifreeze. I am wondering what could be the problem?
  • davisstedavisste Member Posts: 2
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If it smells like ethylene-glycol (anti-freeze) and it's coming from the heater/defroster system, I would speculate that you have a leaking heater core. Unfortunately, by age and year of your Dakota it wasn't an unusual problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • habfan1habfan1 Member Posts: 1
    hello i have a dodge dakota 2003 could u tell me where the
    blower motor resistor is locate please.inside or underneath the hood please.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    May I suggest you consider using the SEARCH function to get an answer to this often-asked question.

    HINT: It is behind the glovebox.
  • zg1286zg1286 Member Posts: 2
    When running Ac, it cools good for about 15-20 min and then starts blowing hot air. If I shut it off for about 10-15 min, blows cold air again and will do the same thing. Charge is good and compressor is working.
  • zg1286zg1286 Member Posts: 2
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I assume that you opened the hood while idling and visually observed the AC clutch is cycling... If so, it sounds like AC system is "freezing up".

    If clutch is NOT cycling, then focus on why it is not.
  • teneubecteneubec Member Posts: 2
    2002 dodge dakota 3.9 v6. ac don't work, & air only comes out the vent outlets on the dashboard. Someone said check out the "mode door actuator". I just changed the blower resistor because it would only work on high, that's OK now. wondering where is the mode door actuator? & if it is near the resistor, could I have done something to creat this other problem while changing the resistor?
  • djkeensdjkeens Member Posts: 2
  • djkeensdjkeens Member Posts: 2
    Howdy all,

    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9L. Recently I started hearing this squealing noise intermittently (like metal on metal grinding). Shortly after that my A/C quit putting out cold air so I obviously figured it to be my compressor. Due to time constraints I attempted to get a belt without A/C to bypass the compressor. To my displeasure, the belt doesn't seem to fit as I've fought with it for 2 hours and came no where near getting the belt on. We'll the good news is, when I pulled the original belt off I was able to mess with the A/C compressor pully and sure enough, it's hopping around on the "spindle" so obviously the bearings or whatever is in there is bunk. My question is this, can I replace the pully or whatever it is by itself or do I need to replace the entire compressor? If I can, is it fairly easy or am I better off taking it to a mechanic? Obviously I'm a novice (amateur really) but I am a helicopter mechanic so I can usually do auto repair with the right instruction. I'd prefer to do it myself for experience sake but I don't want to spend all day fixing it. Thanks for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. Ciao!
  • shane77shane77 Member Posts: 1
    Today when i went to fill my A/C i noticed it needed to be done because the compressor was kicking on and off. So i filled it and the compressor constantly ran. I got COLD air. When i drove for 20 miles the air was warm again. I checked the fitting and noticed a small hiss, and oil around the fitting. I need to know how i can get that little valve replaced in there so i can get it recharged. I had someone check the system and there is no leaks accept that fitting. And i cannot remember even the name for that little spring valve.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. It is HUMID! in chicago.

    Have a great day.
  • urban3urban3 Member Posts: 74
    '01 QC 4.7L w/70K and recently experiencing no cold air from the AC. No apparent leaks under the hood when check by a mobile ac tech. Compressor and electric fan appear operating normal. Freon added and was good for another month, then no cold air again.

    Freon added again with leak sealer added (hail mary). Good for one week. Probably the evaporator?

    Any recommendations on other checks or cost or replacing evaporator. (I know it's behind the dash and a big job)

    Thanks.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Had the evaporator replaced last Sep on my 2K Dak by a dealer in central PA at a cost $973. About $600 was labor, luckily my extended warranty paid for it.

    Ron
  • scott_57scott_57 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 3.9L 5 speed Reg. Cab Dakota. When starting up, if I don't change my vent setting air blows like it should. While driving if I change vent setting it either does not completely move to the new setting or does move, but shortly seems to move off the new setting. Can hear the air blowing, but is not coming out of the vents very well. Have replaced the control panel and problem still exists. I know from the control panel that the vent setting adjustment is vacuum controlled. From reading this forum it may be the "blend door" is not operating like it should. Is this door located in the Heater - A/C Housing and does the the entire housing have to come out to repair this if it is the problem? Are there some simpler things I can try before having to do this?
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    The blower will not run on any speed. Fuses are ok. Bolwer runs when I put 12v to it. I checked the 2 prong connector coming to the blower. One terminal lights a test light. The other does not have continuity to ground. I pulled the resister card. With it plugged in all legs have continuity to ground. How can you test or by pass the resister card to see if it is bad? I am not sure but maybe the fan switch is bad. I cannot see how to get the fan switch out.
    Any help will be appreciated.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Problem solved. With the resistor card plugged in to the wiring harness all legs did have continuity to ground. I could not get the plug to come off the resistor card. Looking carefully at the plug one of the wires had the insulation slightly melted and there was a tiny bit of green corrosion on the wire. It appears that one connection was bad and had burned it's self in to. There was no continuity from that wire to the resistor. When I jumpered from the wire to the resistor terminal all fan speeds work fine. Although the resistor card seems to be fine I can't get it off of the connector so I bought a new resistor card and ordered a new plug. Resistor $10 and plug $12.
    As a band aid I crammed 2 pieces of .032" stainless steel safety in the bad terminal and all speeds work fine for now. This might keep working until Tuesday when the new plug is supposed to be here. :)
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Member Posts: 116
    My 2 cents. I had changed my blower motor resistor a while back when my fan stopped at all speeds on my 2001 quad, 4.7l. That was probably over a yr ago. 3 weeks ago I went to run an errand and again NO fan speed when I went to use my AC. I pulled my replacement resistor pack out and also seen melted plastic at the connector. Both the connector and resistor pack where a little melted together. I had to file off some melted plastic and sanded up the resistor block pins which were also a bit green/corroded. I re-installed the resistor block and the fan works at all speeds again. I really believe when I first replaced the resistor block it sounded like the fan was blowing harder at full speed, ie: more current. I now don't leave my fan on full, knowing that would be the max current going through certain pins as I don't want to create a potential problem knowing that this electrical connection could lead to overheating/fire. Perhaps I'll be ordering the car connector to the resistor block also to avoid a future problem. Ger
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    This is a problem showing up on now older Dakotas.

    There are five wires going to the Blower Resistor. Two of them on the very end of the connector are larger gauge wire. What you will typically see is that the end pin in the connector shows signs of copper corrosion. If you inspect the two heavy gauge terminals you will see that some of the stands are broken.

    I believe that as the wire deteriorates at the terminal crimp, conductance loss causes the terminal in the connector to over heat. Hence the melted plastic from the resistor pack usually drips down into the mating connector and causes further intermittent connection problems.

    Chrysler has a repair kit issued (5017124-AA), but to my eye the large wires supplied in the kit are not the same gauge as the two heavy wires in the harness connector. I've seen this repair last about a year, then the same thing happens again. I'm hoping that by now they have a better fix. Mine is starting to loose the fan intermittently ( '03, 85,000 miles).

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Dusty:
    That is the part # for the repair kit they sold me. It came 2 different wire sizes. I will be sure to use the larger wires. How do you get the connector apart to put the new terminals in the new connector?
  • mstrouse54mstrouse54 Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 96 Dakota on which the A/C compressor wasn't working. In messing around with it, I discovered I could cause it to briefly come on by wiggling the relay switch. I figured the relay was bad so I switched it out with another that was working but still had the same problem. I unhooked the wires going to the relay and by connecting them directly and bypassing the switch can get the compressor to run. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it?

    Thanks
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