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Dodge Ram Climate Control



  • bcc1bcc1 Posts: 2
    Update - I brought the truck in to the dealer yesterday for the 3rd time. They kept it all day and advised they will need to keep it overnight. They seem to be trying to fix it this time. I hope so. So to summarize, I have owned it now for ten days and it has been in the shop for 4 of those days to repair the a/c. I'll update after this repair and let you know if it works. The service rep told me they had to remove the dashboard to access the system and are relocating a sensor to improve the performance. They seem to be trying.
  • BCC1- Thanks for the update, your sensor relocation is an "interesting fix". From the information I have been given...The flaw is in the recirculating door(s)and housing. It is a 7-8 hour job to replace the assembly. The heater core, evaporator and dash have to be removed to change it out.

    The door(s)and it's operation or lack of explains why there is an uneven air discharge or it allows heat to be sucked off the heater core.

    This is why my truck has not been fixed, they are waiting on the they say.
  • Alert-------

    Mega cab owners with faulty A/C or climate control need to log on to This is a new web site documenting this serious problem. We need the help.

  • cactus5cactus5 Posts: 22
    BCC1 & Silverbullet06, My 06 quad cab just doesn't measure up either. My old '95 F-150 would freeze you out even here in phoenix on a summer afternoon.. I drive a 06 F-250 at work it will freeze you out in 2 minutes. Did that 7-8 hour job solve the problem? Sure feels like heat being sucks off the heater core which warms the cool air on the way to the cab. Darn truck only cools well at 5 a.m.on my way to work. And the air flow from the passenger side is weak. Sounds like we're in this same boat together.
  • Cactus5, Well 35 days waiting for the door recirc P/N 5073962-AA did get air moving again. The story I get just keeps changing, the dealer originally ordered this P/N on 07/13/06 and they were told it was superseded by a new "blower case assy". Basically all the complaining I did to D. Chrysler and checking on the part status everyday with the dealer was for nothing.

    I filed a complaint with the California New Motor Vehicle Board (mediation) to get some action. Since 2002 D.Chrysler has not participated in the CA certified lemon law program!!!!

    Once the complaint is filed the manufacturer has 10 calender days to respond. It took 13 days and a then phone call to D.Chrysler in Irvine, Ca to make something happen.

    The same day the call was placed from the mediator I got a call from my dealer to pickup a rental car and the part would be at the dealership in 1-2 days....I picked it up last Friday and the air does come out of the vents but it will not cool the cab off. It was 92 degrees and you barely reach a comfort temp with the fan one notch below high and on recirc. I noticed the vents on the passenger and rear seating vents felt warmer. After a 30 minute trip I checked the temp on those vents and it is 60 degrees vs 50 on the drivers side.

    The truck has the dual zone temp and they are on cold. We will be hitting over 100 by the end of the week and I will be back to opening the windows or sweat! The operation is as good as it gets, poor......Everyone needs to call and write D.Chrysler to file compaints.

  • Quick fix to no circulation, While "waiting on parts".

    I have a 2003 2500. And can, or could, here the "clunk" after start up. I am at the conclusion that is was the fresh/recirculate door. a few days ago I experienced the same no air flow problem, but could not here the usual "clunk". After reading this post I checked the system My self. the problem is that the Fresh/Recir door had broke off the control rod and had fallen onto the fan intake. The door can Be removed thru the blower passage by droping the blower (3) screws. Its a bit tricky to position the door thru the outside intake allowing it to pass thru the blower passage, allowing air to flow.
    This is only a temporary fix to this specific problem. the unit still has to be removed to replace the door, and it allows outside air to flow thru the recirculate opening. One has to either block the outside opening, or the recir opening. but cold air is nice in 100+ deg temps.

    I hope this helps someone.

  • jan01jan01 Posts: 9
  • jdailyjdaily Posts: 1
    Does any one have a suggestion about just the opposite of this post. My Dodge 2003, 2500 quad has very cold Driver side 2 vents, but the passenger side 3 vents are at least 15 degrees warmer. I checked and i have to move the drivers side dual climate control 1.5 inches to the warm side to make them equal temps. crazy
    Now i used to hear some thing similar to that Clunk in the above post at start up, but i was thinking it sounded more like Removing an air tool from the air hose with pressure still on.
    Ohh i have been to a professional and he wanted 650 bucks to replace the temp. thermocouple, he was saying he had to remove the dash, and replace some thing that turned the air on and off by temp before it froze up. similar to an old pressure switch. any thoughts ?
  • cactus5cactus5 Posts: 22
    Had my truck into the dealer for 2 days, they replaced the recirulator door. My A/C seems to be working just fine. I'll send you any updates. Oh they also replaced a circuit board my left rear tailight was out too.
  • Thanks for the update!! Their great trucks if the A/C is working.

  • cactus5cactus5 Posts: 22
    Yea well it's my first time buying a Dodge. A buddy at work has a friend who bought an 06 megacab, he had the same problem. Hope I don't have to go back again it took them 3 1/2 hours to fix under warranty luckly. How's your A/C?
  • Cactus 5- No good news to report,50-55 degrees drivers side vents 80-90 left side. I am tired of sweating while the A/C is on!!
    Trying to set up an appointment with the factory rep next week, either fix it or give my money back. Four months without a properly working A/C is not acceptable.

  • I need help!!! I've recently had a problem with the condensation drain for the AC; it floods my passenger side floor. I know it must be a simple repair, but I've not been able to correct it. could anyone out there help me???
    Thanks sooo much!
  • I need help!!! I've recently had a problem with the condensation drain for the AC; it floods my passenger side floor. I know it must be a simple repair, but I've not been able to correct it. could anyone out there help me???
    Thanks sooo much!
  • DannyB, I have a 98 Ram 1500 Quad cab. Have you had any luck with your repair on the a/c drain leak? I am having the same problem. I have pulled the blower motor, cleaned out the drain and the box, and still have a leak. Please let me know of your progress.
  • Redramamn,
    Sorry to hear you have the same problem, and glad to know I'm not the only one working on it! My truck is an 01 1500 with 27k the failure to drain did not begin until last summer. not one person I've spoken with can tell me anything about it! Man if you can figure this out you'd be one of my heroes!!!!!!
    If I get it I'll post it - please do the same
    Danny B
  • mobermober Posts: 2
    I am having a problem with my 2003 ram 1500. The first occurance was the end of last winter.

    I started my truck and the blower motor did not come on for my defrosters. I tried just the fan and A/C without luck. I waited about 10 minutes and when it was apparent to me that it wasn't going to come on, I start to drive. After about 20 yards, it started? I did not have a re-occurrence of the problem for many months so I thought it was just a computer screw-up. Then it happened again, this time while turning on the A/C. I have now had the problem about 10 times (five this week) and it only happens when I first start the truck and the blower always kicks on after moving about 20 yards. I don’t know if moving is a key or just a timing issue? It doesn't matter what speed the fan is set on, A/C, heat or just the fan, it either works or it doesn't? I now fear that at some point there is going to be a failure with the fan and it will not come on. Is this related to the resistor problems I’ve been reading about? If so, it seems to be a different flavor of the problem. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

    PS I am new to this site and could not figure out where to post this question? If this posting is incorrect, could you please direct me to the correct area and process.
  • cdb82cdb82 Posts: 6
    I had the exact same problem last year, it is likley that the fan motor is failing. The least expensive thing to do is remove the fan motor; this all will come out as a unit, then you can remove the clip which holds the fan on the shaft. all you need is a pair of needle nose ans a socket set. I went to the local salvage yard and purchased a used one for $15.00, and put it all back together in the parking lot of the salvage yard in about 15 min.

    hope this was helped!
  • mobermober Posts: 2
    Thanks DannyB,
    Can you tell me where the fan/blower unit is located in my truck? I believe it is under the dash on the passanger side but i'm not sure.
  • cdb82cdb82 Posts: 6
    your correct, you'll probably need a socket extension to reach the bolt behind the unit. the bottom of the units housing is kinda rounded. it is very simple to replace. I'm not very good at this sort of thing and it was easy to figure out. Let me know how it goes?
  • dasobdasob Posts: 4
    Howdy -

    This is my first time here. My handle, DaSOB comes from my initials, SOB. Yep, fer real! My real name is Sam.

    I have a 1998 Ram 1500, and I've begun having a problem with intermittent delivery of warm air. The blend door is working properly. I can pull a vacuum on the control valve and it opens right up. I've checked the system and flushed the core, but the problem persists. I've isolated the apparent problem - no vacuum to the heater control valve. This condition exists whether the temperature selector is in the hot or cold position.

    The vacuum system, as far as I can tell, is performing correctly, as is the valve. It appears that the problem is possibly with the control head or the vacuum connection to it. I'm going to go into the dash and pull the control head to check it, probably this weekend.

    As I have said, this is an intermittent problem, leading me to think that instead of being a vacuum problem it is a switch problem. Can anyone give me details on what occurs, or should occur, relative to pulling a vacuum on the control valve? Is there a contact or relay somewhere in the line that may be bad?

    Thanks, folks!!

  • dasobdasob Posts: 4
    Update - what I have been taking to be the heater control valve in the input side is actually a vacuum-actuated coolant shut-off valve. It looks like the valve is not opening all the way when there is no vacuum, and is keeping water out of the core. I removed the valve and spliced the hose with a 5.8" connector, and the heater works just fine.
  • Sam,

    Can you tell me where the valve is located at this point, or shoot a picture of it and email to me. ( I've got a Dodge Ram 1500 Sport (2000) with a problem similar in that the climate control doesn't work at all at this point.

  • dasobdasob Posts: 4
    Hey, Dennis -

    The valve is located in the passenger side heater hose. Looks basically like this: image

    although mine is black plastic. No one, and I mean NO ONE, not even the parts guy at Dodge or some guys I know at a local radiator shop, knows why it is there. I just took it out of the hose and put in a 5/8" splice, and the heater works fine.


  • DAN
    I have a 02 2500 with the same problem
    Please let me know if you have solved your problem
    Thank you~~ fritz
  • cdb82cdb82 Posts: 6
    No I have not, it has been a real pain trying to solve this problem! for now I'm just grateful its cool enough to not run the A/C. Man if you figure this out, please contact me?????
    Danny B
  • dasobdasob Posts: 4
    My panel/defrost door seems to have a mind of its own. Sometimes when I accelerate, the door will open and switch the airflow from the panel up to the windshield. When I decelerate, it will close again and the airflow will come back to the dash. I can hear the door "plop" shut.

    I'm sure this is a vacuum problem, but I'm not well acquainted enough with the operation of the system to know what component to look at. Anyone help me on this?

  • if you find what is causing your airflow to switch on acceleration I would like to know the solution. I am also having the same problem with my 99 1500. It also causes the 4 wheel drive to kick out. I know they are both using the vacuum for control.
  • hi there i have 2002 Ram and i just brought my truck to get fixed it does have 100,000 miles on it but whatevere...the problem i was having was that i had no heat on the driver side and i could not get my defroster on nor could i switch to get heat to the ground...i need to get the door replaced cause it had ended up getting stuck in a positon and breaking...i also had to have my blower motor replace due to all the stress it was getting put on it...if this is problem everyone is having why hasnt any type of statement come out to warn the owners of these trucks that this problem exist...any answers would be appreciated
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