Dodge Ram Climate Control

buddyruff

Thanks Stevo !!! I just bought this 06 Ram from a Bank as a "repo" 55,000 miles on it..I am wondering what else I should be on the look-out for with this truck..Preventing issues before they become major?? Any suggestions from anyone?? Thanks

buddyruff

Hey Stevo--Buddyruff here...I did take the recirc door off and air blows out great..Now the problem is it only comes out the vent--hot; cold is fine just out the vents with very little out the floor and none out the defrost..I turn the switch to eacj location and it still just comes out the vent...Is there something else now wrong??? By NOT replacing the recirc. door; did that mess it all up or create a new problem?? As winter is approaching I need to get his fixed...any ideas???
Thanks !!

sehrnst

Buddyruff, I believe there may be some other issue with your truck. The door only controls the recirculation choice. All of the other selections: defrost, floor, etc., should work normally. On the defrost, it doesn't normally blow hard up there, so it may seem like it's not working. By removing the recirc door, you would not effect the other functions of the climate system, only the ability to close off the outside air. Most people who remove it, find the air blows even harder than original. You may be correct about some change to the defrost and floor does happen when the door is off. At least, you have good circ thru the vents now. There may be another door between the defrost and floor. If it is of the same quality as the recirc door, it could break off as well. Hope this helps. Stevo

danielmove

Sounds like a vacume leak to the control doors. It could be anywhere from under the hood to in the control knob area. That is what I would eliminate before looking for anything else.

dodger16

I've begun to take apart the dash panels to find the broken blend doors and realize I'd better get this fan speed problem tackled at the same time. For the fan to run, I have to turn the dial completely to the right. There are no intermediate fan speeds in operation. How do I troubleshoot/fix that problem?

sehrnst

The recirculation/fresh air blend door is broken off and is blocking the airflow of your fan. Remove the 3 screws holding the fan on (floor, pass side), reach in to the left and fish door out by moving it around until it can get thru the opening. You don't need this door really, so don't replace it. Stevo

adme014

I strongly believe i have the same problem, a/c works great but very low heat in winter. i am very mech enclined and am wondering how long this process took you to accomplish please let me know as i am in utah and the cold is coming thanks

danielmove

adme014 It took me 2 days to complete the job start to finish. I am sure I could do it in one now that I have been through it. The toughest part for me was getting the heater hoses back on to the core. I had to lay a pad across the top of the engine and lay across the the engine bay in order to get my hands back to the clamps next to the firewall. Be sure to locate the hidden bolt behind the square computer fixture screwed to the firewall on the engine bay side. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Daniel B.

punn06

the heater in my 89 dodge cummins blows hot for a while then will go cold and then hot again. I was wondering if anyone had and idea of what the problem could be.

jetbridge1

I get cold air from the driver side vents and luke warm air from the passenger side vents when I try to heat my 2003 Ram 1500. I've read almost all of the 315 posts to this site about blend doors. I've taken the dash out, down to the point where I can somewhat check all four actuator motors and flapper/blender doors. The only motor I didn't physically remove was the one that you have to cut out the metal framework, but I could see movement of the small doors that open the air to the foot/floor warming vent by using a flashlight and looking into the vents near the floor of the center console. Examining the four actuators and doors as best that I could, here are the results (the four actuator motors are labeled with a white sticker on the wire leading to them):

Actuator Recirculation Motor (on the far right of the unit) - Moves the large recirculation door that I can see and feel by removing the recirculation fan on the passenger side.- mine operates properly by changing from a Max setting to any standard setting for the area desired to be heated or cooled (switch on the far right of the three climate control switches) I can actually view the door moving and it is intact.

Actuator Driver (second actuator motor from right side that operates two doors in unison) - Motor operates properly when selecting the middle climate control switch to either hotter or colder. The actuator rotates properly with switch movement. I disconnected the metal connector that operates the two flapper/blender doors in unison, and both doors appear to feel normal but I cannot visually see them.

Actuator Mode 1 - I was able to remove the actuator motor and it rotated properly when the correct console switch was moved (can't remember which one). By moving it with my hand, I was able to turn the white mechanism that the switch controls, and feel that the door seemed normal and that the limit stops were working properly. I could also determine, that by manually moving the door while the blower was on, the air would change direction to the correct area.

Actuator Mode 2 - I cannot access the motor to remove it since it is behind the metal framework that the repair video says would need to be cut out, but by looking into the floor area vents with a flashlight, both doors seem to move properly when going from floor selections to defrost selections on the middle console switch.

Both of the hoses to the heater core feel warm when I checked them from the engine compartment at the point they enter the firewall. There is also a proper level of radiator coolant/antifreeze and the Air Conditioning cools just fine on a hot day.

I still cannot determine why I would be getting warm air from the passenger side and cold air from the driver's side. Please help.

ejones6

I HAVE THIS SAME PROB WITH MY 2002 RAM 1500. IT'S COLD RIGHT NOW AND I NEED HEAT. PLEASE HELP. ANY SOLUTIONS?????

corkscrew

All HVAC motors have feedback to the computer. You and jetbridge can use the DRBIII scan tool to get the codes. The codes will line up with the symptoms, this is a complete diagnosis of the problem. If you get a code without a symptom, then something is in the process of failing.The motors are robust and usually don't fail. If a problem occurs, the computer will shut the motor down.
We usually don't use capital letters, no offense intended.
Corkscrew

genefor

Can someone who has removed the 3 screws and the fan to find the broken air flow door, please describe the location of the three screws? Under dash? Under hood? Which side?

corkscrew

The fan is located under the dash on the passengers side.
Corkscrew

kentish_maid

I took my truck to the dealer to see why the heat would not come out of the floor vents. I was told that the Mode Actuator was defective of course its out of warrenty I didn't have any trouble with it last year and I always turn off the radio, AC/Heat before I shut off the truck and I don't trun on the AC/Heat untill the truck is totaly warmed up I'm upset because its going to cost over $500 to fix and I feel that this might be a known problem with Dodge.

hotdiggitydodg

I've had the same problem twice with my 2003 2500. During the winter I leave my "mode" on defrost so that if it breaks again I can at least keep my windsheild clear.

You would think an aftermarket company would come up with a better replacement part or system. I would certainly by it since I plan to keep the truck a long time.

Wish I could give you better news but $500 is about the norm.

zoodski

I had a broken blend door on my 04 ram 2 years ago and the dealer charged $600 to fix it. It just broke again on me last week. I dropped the truck off yesterday and they called this morning to say same problem as last time. They contacted chrysler and was told its a known issue. Chrysler agreed to cover all labor if I purchased an updated housing (since I've already paid for repair once). They said $143 is all I'll have to pay. I'll keep my fingers crossed it doesn't happen again.

fann

Drivers side is extremely cold and while the passenger side is getting most of the heat. Sometimes it works, other times, it doesn't. It was repaired in July,22,2009, now the problem is back.
Help my six months is almost up. What should I do?
fann

birdmfc

I have an 05 1500 QC and I have a problem with no floor heat now. I tore my dash apart and found that it is the Mode 1 door. I can order a new plastic one through the dealership, but it may break again, so I have found a website that you can order a metal door with better hinges at heatertreater.net. So if you don't know what your problem is yet or want to do it yourself, look at this website.

jetbridge1

I had to take out the dashboard to remove the entire heater "box". This showed all four actuator doors and motors to be working fine. At this point, I took it to a mechanic and discussed it with him. We agreed that the only thing left in a heating system would be the heater core which is also inside the box. The part was $125 and the mechanic charged 2.5 hrs labor to drain coolant, replace core and reinstall the dashboard and trim. ( the book called for 4.9 hrs to replace the heater core but since I had most of it removed, he was able to cut the price since most of this was labor intensive.) $360 out the door. Works perfectly. I think the heater core was partially blocked and was only circulating across half the core, therefore giving lukewarm air and only on one side due to the design of the doors and core location. Good luck.

swoop94

hey mike my 94 has same problem working on it if i fix i'll let you know

fromthisdesk

My vents on my 95 Ram force the great majority of airflow to the feet -- is this a Blend Door problem? If so, has anyone tried the Heater Treater?

dearlneal

It's been a long time since I have been a part of this forum.. but I cleaned out the garage today and found a brand new heater core still in the box never opened for a 1999 Dodge rame 1500 4x4.. also found a brand new fan clutch.. if anyone is interested in the parts.. respond to this forum or to my email.. and we can work something out. I've had the parts for about 2 years.. but have never opened the boxes.

swoop94

dearlneal no tks got a2500 tks any way

sharky6

i have a 2003 dodge 1500 pickup when the heater or a/c are running all the positions on the control knob work except for air flow to the floor vents when it is turn to the floor it blows air back out the defrost vents can anyone give me some ideas how to fix thanks

birdmfc

You have a broken mode 1 door. The same problem happen to me, I ordered a replacement from heatertreater.net for a 129.99 and gonna fix it myself. Or you can pay the dealership 685.00.

dodge13

Hello there...same problem on my '03 for the 2nd time. I'm out of warranty, I filed a complaint with NHTSA. They told me that I was the only one with such a complaint. I was hoping for a recall. How did you make out with the heater treater? I have a mode door 1 failure. I cannot stand the heat blowing @ my face. The winters can get pretty darn cold up here in NY!! Thanks!!

birdmfc

I have the part and it looks pretty easy to install. I just haven't had the time to do so.

swoop94

shark mine was from to much coffee and soda down on the controller there is a deverter in the control switch it switches the vacuum control. It looks like a rubber stamp you have too take the switch apart to see what Im talking about carefully. but have not been able too get part ,price on switch from dodge was 200. I tried glue and tape worked for the 90 90 rule when I moved the switch it held the back too defrost mode. need to made find who made the switch or junk yard mine is still brokeswoop57msn.com

swoop94

shark mine is a 94 2500 ram all the vacuum lines are easy too get too jumper them out too make sure the doors open are working. there should be a splice under the dash or take the controller out and jumper the red with black green with blk yel with blk and i forget the other color each mode should cycle

swoop94

mike my 94 does that now it in the switch the rubber spring block is ripped can't find part yet theirs a inch and a half spring block in the switch it self easy like hell too get to get a book take the whole sw out and then take the switch apart be real careful it might break lol if you happen to find part with out the whole switch or cheaper than dodge 200, drop us a line. thanks swoop

dodge13

I have a '03 1500 with a broken mode 1 door for the 2nd time. I advise EVERYONE with a problem to file a complaint with the NHTSA. The more the merrier.. maybe with enough complaints. It would be nice if Dodge would recall due to poor product design/ failure!! Thank You!!

dasboot72

You have to understand that a RECALL is only for issues that are safety related. Your heat not working correctly will not kill you.

thrix

I have a 99 Ram 1500 with no heat. I have isolated it to the interposer from the blend door motor to the blend door axle. That part either was already broken or broke while working on the truck. That part will be upgraded, however I can not turn the axle by hand or with pliers. What kind of force is needed to turn this door? Should this be a relatively freely moving door?

dodge13

I understand what you are saying. When your front windshield fogs up and you can't defrost it therefore can't see out of it...I call that a MAJOR safety issue. What do you think??

dasboot72

But you can stop the truck. Believe me, I have worked for Chrysler for 15 years and I know how the Recall proccess works. Not only for Chrysler but all manufacturers. Let me ask you this, are you sure the updated Part Number recirc assembly has been installed. I have replaced many of the original style ones but have only seen one of the updated style come back with problems. Just wondering. They may have had some old ones in stock and used them in your repair.

dodge13

I have had mode door 1 failure 2x now. The first time it failed @ 15,000 miles under warranty. It failed again @ 100,000 and I'm sure that nothing was updated during the repair. I may attempt the heater treater or go to the dealer for an estimate.

dasboot72

What I mean by updated is that the latest part number has been installed. When changes are made to a part the letters on the end of the part number change to indicate a change to the part. Example- 5686606AA turns into a 5686606AB. The recirc door housing assembly for DR Ram pickups has been changed to make it less likely to fail. When parts start to fail on vehicles regularly the manufacturer sees this and will likely go to its supplier to solve the problem with a part redesign.

kenrc

I agree with Dodge 13 and had that same issue. Stopping the truck on the highway is not a viable option and there is no way anyone can expect us all to wait out the weather every time it storms. I also advise EVERYONE with a problem to file a complaint with the NHTSA. It is online and only takes a few minutes. I would like to see a count of how many of us have been told that you are the first one to file this type of complaint. The other thing I have been wondering is isn’t it a major conflict with NHTSA now that the feds are major stock holders in Dodge and Chevy ? I bet Toyota thinks so.

dasboot72

People have to die or be seriously injured for a recall to be instated. It's that simple. An inconvinience just won't do it. Things break on machines all the time. A redesigned recirc door assembly has been built and most of these trucks were fixed under warranty. Chrysler warranty time on the repair is 1.2 hours and the part is like a hundered bucks. It's not an expensive repair. Even if you have to pay 3.3 hours that Alldata says it pays. Not like a Trans overhaul or something.

nyecop

I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel with about 130,00 miles on it. In the past few months it started blowing air (heat or air conditioning) through only the defrost vents. If I play with the selector switch and switch it from outside vents to off and back it would blow air through the selected vents for a while then (usually when I slowed down or accelerated) switch back to the defroster vents. Now it seems no matter what I do it blows air through only the defroster vents. My first guess is that the selector switch is the problem, but the dodge dealer says it is all in one with the climate control and cost over $200 so I don't want to replace it only to have it not be the problem. I have checked and there is power getting to this switch but that is as far as I know what to do in diagnosing the problem. Anyone got any ideas?

dasboot72

Hi, you have a vacuum system for mode selection and it's default position (no vacuum) is defrost. First you need to go under the hood and find the vacuum line that is coming throught the firewall next to the heater hoses. Follow that line to its source of vacuum and verify it is hooked up and is getting vacuum. There is a check valve in that line also that you can check by sucking through it. It should only let you suck through it in one direction. If the check valve is good and you have good vacuum into the truck then you can go up under the dash on the drivers side (probabally have to remove the knee bolster) and find the vacuum harness connector where it plugs into the harness that goes to the mode switch. All the vacuum lines have a different color, its easy to find (red, green, yellow, blue, etc) Verify vacuum to that connector. If you have good vac there then you need to find out what is happening to it when you turn the knob. Get that far and let me know if you found it. I can get into more detail about the under dash stuff at that point if needed.

mrpotatohhead

2000 Dodge RAM 1500 5.9l auto 2wd. I have this same problem, with the AC suddenly blowing to the defrost vents when throttle is applied in Drive and RPM's go to 2k or 2.5k, then when i let off the throttle it comes back and blows cold air from the AC vents facing me. Did you ever get this fixed or figure out what the problem was? Andi get the loud audile pop sound, like a plunger from a sryinge being pulled out.

dasboot72

The post just before yours applies to your truck. Follow those steps and see where you get.

lancechad

This thing sounds like a machine gun inside my truck when I turn the fan up past the 2nd notch. I mean loud. It still works and blows some air, but even on the highest fan speed the windows and windshield will fog up, which can be a safety issue. Any suggestions, which I hope is not go to the dealer because I do not like dealers!!

And sorry if someone else asked this, but it recommended 350 posts which I do not have time to read thru.

dasboot72

I can tell you exactly waht happened. Your recirc door broke and a piece of it landed in the fan causing the noise. You can drop the blower down yourself. its under the pass side dash held with 3 screws. Take it down and take the little broken piece out. As for the recirc door that requires removing the dash and installing an updated design recirc housing with door and actuator.

mrpotatohhead

That was it. I checked the hoses coming out of the firewall and there was one, very small, looks like maybe .1 in diameter, like the size around of a heavy duty weed trimmer chord. It was torn but still together. I went to Autozone and looked for a splice or connector, didnt have it. I just took about an inch of electrical tape and carefullly ran it around, then caked the hose and tape a quater inch up and down in an eight inch deep Bondaflex ATX sliicone. that keeps it from sucking air, and chaning keeps the AC where i need it. Hope it lasts, i'd hate to have to scrape that stuff off and try again. The hose looks old and brittle enough as it is. Doesnt look easy to replace.

thanks again.

dodge13

I have a 2003 Ram 1500. The mode 1 door failed 2x now. Once under warranty, second one not. I'm at the Dodge dealer now and they quoted me around $1000.00 to replace the entire plenum box. The air only blows from the front vents no floor or defrost. I had a hard time not too long ago seeing out with a heavy rain. Do you have any warranty left? The blend door broke in the down position and the piece that broke off is in the blower motor housing. You will certainly hear the vibration. Check out the website for heater treater. Good luck!!

dodge13

Another suggestion, also file a complaint with the NHTSA. You can do it online.

cameronjoe

I have a 1998 Dodge Ram Quad cab, 1500, 318 engine. When I have to fan on AC or Heater and I go to speed up it will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrost, or floor. After I let off the gas a bit it will come back to the vents. It sounds like I can here a flap slamming shut. Anyone know anything I can do.