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Dodge Ram Climate Control

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Comments

  • rv12sprv12sp Member Posts: 2
    nyone?
  • rv12sprv12sp Member Posts: 2
    It does the cycle thing like 5 times in 5 seconds then shuts down. When can get it to work pressures are normal.

    Thinking either the compressor/clutch or a switch somewhere. Two shops have given up since I won't pay them 300 to diagnose.
  • cowgirl65707cowgirl65707 Member Posts: 5
    Just had my compressor replaced for the same problem - it was the clutch.
  • borgoborgo Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem. I removed the fan, stuck my hand up there and I could feel the door covering the vent. It was loose but I could not get it out. I had to cut it in half with a pair of long snips and pulled it out in 2 pieces. It seems to be working for now.
    How big of a job is it replace this thing?
  • misplacedtexanmisplacedtexan Member Posts: 1
    1997 Dodge Ram 1500. Air blows out of defrost vent no matter what position the control is in. (Exception is off) WTF?! Help!
  • kdeffendallkdeffendall Member Posts: 1
    It's your AC/Heater control in your dash. Mine has the same problem. It's run by vacuum off the intake manifold and in different positions, it activates flaps that control the route of the air in the dash. There is a little gasket in back that dries out and the control looses it's vacuum. The default position of no vacuum is the defrost. I got mine to work a little longer by putting vaseline on it but now it's dried out again.
    I think a new one is $75 or so from the dealer. Don't buy a used one as it's probably dried out too.
  • luxelloluxello Member Posts: 5
    2003 Dodge Ram 3500. A few months ago, our air conditioner started to work intermittently. We put a thermometer in the vent and when it worked correctly, the thermometer would read 40 degrees. Other times it would cool to 60, sometimes 50. Now, most of the time it cools to about 52 degrees, which is not great considering I live in South Texas and 52 won't cool a 4 door truck down very well. Since funds are low (my husband is in construction), I decided that I was going to take on the task of trying to help fix the problem. I read a lot online and in the factory service manual and decided that the problem was probably the blend door or blend door actuator. A mechanic friend hooked his A/C gauges up to the truck and said the pressures for the a/c system were good and the freon level is good. So, yesterday, I convinced my husband that we could fix it. We took the entire dash out of our truck (including the steering wheel and column) and all 4 a/c doors (recirculation, blend, defrost, and I forgot the other one) seem to be fine. My father and husband tested each of the actuators by hooking them up to a battery (I didn't exactly understand) and they all worked. We watched all four doors open and closed correctly. Now that we have put the dash all back together, the blend door is backwards. It has to be turned all the way to hot, to blow cool air and vice versa. I disconnected the negative battery cables to try to reset, but it didn't change anything. Any ideas? I think I'm way in over my head. But now that we have done all this crazy stuff, I don't want to admit defeat! Could there be something wrong with the a/c heater control in the dash? Any help or ideas is appreciated!
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    It is possible for the heater control to fail. The DRBIII scan toll can diagnose the problem. This is a visit to the dealer so I would check with heatertreater.net first. In full a/c both doors should close against the core.
    Corkscrew
  • newguy1961newguy1961 Member Posts: 1
    I had exact same problem with my 2000 ram 1500.
    The compressor clutch was worn out.

    It seems when the clutch coil gets hot it does not have enough power to grab the clutch plate if the plate is worn. The plate gets worn from excessive cycling due to a low refrigerent charge or from many years of normal use.

    My mechanic also showed me that there are shims on the clutch plate shaft that are used to set the gap between the plate and the clutch magnets. If the plate is not badly worn you can remove a shim or two and get the correct gap. If the gap is correct it will work and your problem is solved. Unfortunatly I don't know the correct gap but you can experiment by removing 1 shim at a time and see if it works.

    This solved my problem but if the clutch plate is badly worn it will have to be replaced. Unfortunatly Dodge only sells the clutch as a unit with the compressor($300-500). If this is too expensive for you try to get a used compressor from a wrecker or try to get the clutch assembly seperatly.

    Good Luck
  • joney1joney1 Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem in a '97 Ram. Where is the gasket located...behind the control in the dash? Is it something simple to replace? I was always assuming I had a vacuum hose loose somewhere as I have been living with this problem forever. Thanks for the insight.
  • luxelloluxello Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the updated information. Actually, I was able to fix our problem relatively easily. After taking the dash apart (14 hours worth of work) and not solving any problems, I decided to try to clean the evaporator coil. After disconnecting the negative battery cables and taking the blower motor and the blower motor resistor out (located under the passenger dash area), I lined the passenger floor board with garbage bags and went to work. First, I sprayed an evaporator coil cleaner on the coils (you can't really see them, you can just reach in the area where the blower motor came out and squirt as best as possible. Let sit for 15 minutes and then used an old toothbrush and another small brush to reach in and carefully scrub. Then I took a garden hose and washed it off carefully. The vast majority of the water drains out of the air condition drain, but when I went too fast some came back and drained inside onto my garbage bags, which I had "funneled" out the open passenger side door. Since my husband does construction and works in very, very dusty conditions, the evaporator coil got so clogged with dirt and grime that it couldn't blow the cool air across the coil. Maybe, hopefully, this will fix someone else's problems, too.

    For what it's worth, 4 years ago we had the same problem and paid $900 to have the evaporator coil replaced. I suspect that if I had figured this out before then, I would still have that $900.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Thanks for posting the solution to your problem. This will give others with the same problem someting to look for.
    Corkscrew
  • bulldog29bulldog29 Member Posts: 1
    05 Ram 1500...A/C is cold, compressor appears to be fine. The problem is when you go from low to high on the blower, you can hear the motor increase but the amount of air barely increases. And it's really loud and and vibrates when on high. Help! It's hot in Texas!
  • paul192paul192 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2005 Dodge ram 1500 A/C work fine till truck is driven several hours then when truck is shut off then started back up the A/C is on an light lit up on control unit but no air is blowing out of vents then it will come on as you are driving down the road sometime it will not come on till the next day. have all ready replace the control head unit twice from dealer. three out of the four doors replaced and actuator.
    can anyone help solve this problem obviously the dealer cant!!!!
    thanks
    paul192
  • chuckiejoneschuckiejones Member Posts: 7
    I found out that when the blower motor is not running, that it was the ignition switch that was not passing any current to the fan switch. It was the last thing I checked. It was intermittent at first then completely failed. Sounds like you should check the power out of the ignition switch. (when the blower motor is not running as it should.) It is designed so that the fan will not work unless the ignition is turned on. The switch cost approx $35 at autozone. It is much easier to access than any of the other changes you made. It only requires dropping the plastic cover around the steering column.
  • luxelloluxello Member Posts: 5
    From a fellow Texan! I know it's hot, that is why I was so determined to fix our A/C in our Dodge '03 Dodge 3500. Same problem with blower motor, although ours had gotten so bad the air was not blowing cold any longer either, along with the blower not blowing very hard. Please read post #367, it explains what I did that fixed our problem. I hope you find this helpful.
  • 2bigjohn2bigjohn Member Posts: 1
    In my 2005 Dodge, we have dual A/C controls. Drivers side works fine, passenger side works fine on heater (hot) but does not blow cold (just medium) air. I think it is the blend motor and/or door. But I need to know where it is on the passenger side. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • rockmsockmrockmsockm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 V8, and I'm having some problems with the A/C. When I start the truck, I immediately turn the air conditioning unit on to max air. After doing this, within minutes, I can hear a suction noise like something closing. Then nothing but hot air comes out. In the meantime, nothing was touched on the controls. The controls will not work properly at all. Even if I turn the whole thing off then on again, it still blows out hot. If I shut the truck off, then back on, sometimes cold air will come on right away. Does anybody have any ideas?
  • jeffs69jeffs69 Member Posts: 1
    Same problem as #373
    Drivers ac ok passenger not so good, have replaced all blend doors. Someone please respond
  • wilburpwilburp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 05 dodge 1500. The temp dial that goes from cold air to hot air and the dial that changes from floor to vents to dash..etc works fine... problem is the dial for speed of air doesnt work at all. blower motor works fine. Is there a variable speed switch that may be burned out?
  • luxelloluxello Member Posts: 5
    Does the blower motor work on high only? If so, the blower motor resistor is probably out. It is located under the dash toward the center of the truck from the blower motor. It is easy to replace and costs about $45 from auto parts store. It has a plug in that can easily be taken apart and two screws and that is all it takes to replace it. Also, before you start to take the old one out, be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable to protect your electronic system. Once you have replaced the switch (if that is what you think your problem is), reconnect the battery cable. It's a pretty cheap stab in the dark, if nothing else!
  • drflexedrflexe Member Posts: 1
    Same problem as 373 & 375
    i see everyone is looking at the blend doors. Dose anyone think that it could be the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor ? The blower seams to be working fine. The A/C had done this in the past I thought that the evaporator was freezing up we would shut down the sys for 5min and the sys would work for an hour or two then repeat this happened when the truck was new then this started happening I think that it is the T-Stat. Is there a T-Stat for both sides?If anyone has another idea PLEASE HELP :sick:
  • question4youquestion4you Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    I have a 99 Ram and the blower motor is working on high only. I replaced the blower motor. The old one ran for a few stopped you could hit it and it would start up for a while. So now that the blower works great.. its only working on High. So maybe the resistor or relay is out? I bought the ram manual.. and it dose not show where or how to replace.
    Dose anyone have any ideas to this problem? and if so how to fix and fine the part.
    Any help would be great.
    Thank you!!
  • blackice1700blackice1700 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone attempted to fix this problem on their own? I have a 2004 with the diverter door problem and am retired. I can't afford to have a dealer repair it so I have to do it myself. :cry:
  • luxelloluxello Member Posts: 5
    It can be done. We (my husband and I) took our dash apart to get to the diverter door. I would strongly recommend that first you purchase a service manual for your vehicle. I purchased a manual on CD for a 2003 Dodge for about $15.00. I wouldn't attempt to do it without. It is quite tedious but if you follow all directions in the manual, you can do it (and with confidence). :)
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Here is a link to dodge hvac problems. Read this page to understand the system. The home page has a link to a video that will aid in getting at and diagnosing the problem. The DRBIII scan tool will also diagnose the problem, but that means a trip to the dealer. http://www.heatertreater.net/Ram%2002-08%20Listing.html
    Corkscrew
  • question4youquestion4you Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Ram and the blower motor is working on high only. I replaced the blower motor. The old one ran for a few stopped you could hit it and it would start up for a while. So now that the blower works great.. its only working on High. So maybe the resistor or relay is out? I bought the ram manual.. and it dose not show where or how to replace.
    Dose anyone have any ideas to this problem? and if so how to fix and fine the part.
    Any help would be great.
    Thank you!!
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    See message #377 and go to google images to see a picture of the resistor.
    http://images.google.com/
    Corkscrew
  • mhcimhci Member Posts: 2
  • mhcimhci Member Posts: 2
    1998 dodge 318 auto reg cab. I was told that I can take off the compressor and install an idler type pully to replace it at a fraction of the cost. Has anyone done this and where can I purchase such an item.
  • slyhogslyhog Member Posts: 2
    my ac is driving me nuts, we have checked low side pressure switch, high pressure switch, mixer door actuation. it is a 1999 ram 1500 and the ac sometimes works, when it does decide to work if it kicks out for any reason, ie... kickdown on highway, climate control knob moved to hotter position, or any other reason the compressor will not kick back in. it has a full charge, all the switches have been checked and mixer door is sealing right. I need some help, dodge person has spent over 35 hours trying to find out what is wrong with it but it still isnt right. it seems like the dealer guys are parts replacers and not mechanics.
  • indiborn92indiborn92 Member Posts: 5
    Hey guys i dont know where else to post this but hope yall can help me with my 2006 Dodge Ram Nightrunner which is a great truck, but over the past 4 years I've put over 105,000 miles on it and it seems that every time now that i push the brakes the truck starts to shake (steering and cabin) I just got the brakes replaced at 100,000 and also got it realigned as well, however I have not gotten a service since 98,000 miles, is this whats causing my truck to be like this? Has anyone experienced this either with a 2006 Dodge Ram? Also will a tune up fix this problem either?we replaced the rotors as well back in june is it a tune up?
  • cowgirl65707cowgirl65707 Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 did the same thing - it would run fine for awhile then quit, then come back on with no apparent cause - got a compressor out of salvage for $75 and it works fine now.
  • amyskamysk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 1500 Ram V8. Wether I am using the heater or the air conditioner and I put the dial on the floor setting air will only blow out of the defrosters and not on the floor. What could be the problem and if there is a part that needs replaced what is the name of the par? I do not want to take truck to dealership so I need to know what needs to be replaced on it. Thanks for you help.
  • captkirk19captkirk19 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem in my 1998 dodge ram.everything you stated looks good.Now what ? I've been reading it could be my pvc valve ( which I'll check tomorrow ) or possible my mode control vacuum switch.Any wisdom that you can shoot my way ?
  • michaels_dadmichaels_dad Member Posts: 8
    edited August 2010
    If it were the ignition switch, wouldn't all the accessory components not work? I'm having the same problem, fan quit. Pulled the fan and applied 12v and it worked fine. Replaced the resistor, but no luck...no power to any of the legs on the resistor connector. I was able to get voltage to the fan connector for a moment today while playing around under the steering column...Straight wired the fan to a cig lighter cord for a temp fix, but I'm a bit concerned about overloading the circuit or causing a fire. Mine is a 2005 Ram 2500.
  • dodgeastrousdodgeastrous Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for posting this. I too was quoted a $680 repair from Mrtin Dodge in Bowling Green KY. After reading your email today I spent 10 minutes tops and followed your instructions and my problem is fixed. How much do I owe you? You know the mechanics and service manager know about this easy fix. I can only assume the service manager is paid on commission.
    Thanks again.
  • chuckiejoneschuckiejones Member Posts: 7
    No charge. I am glad to know someone even read the easy fix.
    Have a cool day!
  • northman55northman55 Member Posts: 1
    My 98 Ram diesel 24 valve is always running the air conditioner. No matter what position the dash switch is in the air conditioning clutch engages, runs for a normal duration then disengages and repeats the cycle all over again. The rest of the dash switch positions work correctly except the air conditioner is always running. Please give me a clue whats going on. The vacuum line from the dash control is operating a switch somewhere in the climate control system.
    Anybody have info to fix.
    Thanks
  • elvis56elvis56 Member Posts: 3
    Hey, I hope someone can clarify what my problem might be. Ive read about heat on passenger side but not driver but I have the occasional problem where heat blows out of mid vents and floor on drivers side but cool on passenger(all vents) and also cool on defrost both sides. Then without warning it will go away and blow hot everywhere. I just discovered that my upper rad hose is plenty hot but my lower hose is cool to touch right after driving at 100kph for 1/2 hour. Temp gauge is just under halfway up, and there is plenty of heat in the cab. Rad overflow is full but cant check rad until it cools. This problem has been going on for almost 6 months now. There is nothing odd about the heater controls or the way the air blows out other than the temp. Blend doors? Clogged heater core? Bad thermostat? Toasted heater controls? Any Ideas? 2006 Ram 1500 4x4 w/ cruise and dual climate control. Thanks. BTW my AC works fine, its not super cold but blows fairly cool for summers in western canada.
  • broke_goatbroke_goat Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I have a 2004 Ram 3500 that will only blow out the vents. When I change to defog it will change to ac but not blow out the top, nor will it blow out the floor. Any ideas on a fix? I'm taking my dash apart this weekend. To expensive to take to a dealership...Or I'm just to cheap!
  • broke_goatbroke_goat Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 3500 turbo diesel. Does the A/C run off a motor or vacuum system? Sorry if I worded this wrong.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    This link has a video that will help you open the dash as well as diagnose your problem: http://www.heatertreater.net/. Hope this helps
    Corkscrew
  • jstarr1jstarr1 Member Posts: 2
    So it's winter and I've been running the heater. Sometimes the heater never gets hot and gauge never gets above 130. If I start down the highway and go 65 the gauge spikes to 245 and idiot light comes on and then heat immediately comes out heater and gauge come back to normal, about 195. Then it will cycle back to cold air out vents, overheat then heat out vents. WTF. I checked antifreeze and it was low. Very low. I put jug in and it brought it up half way between add and full. Is my thermostat stuck shut. Water pump problem. I never flushed coolant. Just added as needed. Got 67000 miles on truck. Any ideas? Thanks for your time. J
  • slyhogslyhog Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like you have an air pocket in the cooling system. if this is a diesel there is a tube on the passenger side head with a hose that runs through the firewall, remove the hose from the tube and add coolant into the radiator until it runs out the tube Do this with the engine off. Go slow and when you get the coolant out of it reconnect the hose and start the truck with heat on and idling any remaining air should work its way out thru the filler cap. then put the cap on and keep a check on it for a few days it will use some of the water in the overflow tank but not all, if it goes dry again you have a leak somewhere inthe system or other problems.
    If it is a gasoline motor add coolant into the radiator cap opening with the engine running and heater on at idle, give it some time as it takes a while for the air bubble to work its way thru the engine and into the radiator. Then just follow the same as above filling until it isnt bubbling anymore. Take your time it isnt easy to get out the air bubbles. Adding coolant to the tank does nothing to help if your coolant has dropped below the thermostat.
  • jstarr1jstarr1 Member Posts: 2
    It is a diese.l I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks for the post.
  • orrsmoparorrsmopar Member Posts: 1
    We have the same problem on my dad's truck. We have tested all the motors, they are working. We have even drilled holes into the heater box so we could get a sneak peak at the doors to make sure they were working in conjunction with the motors. We flushed the system first. Both heater hoses are the same temp. What next?
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Open the link on message #399, there is a video there that will help diagnose hvac problems. Also, read message #326, there may be a problem with the heater core.
    Corkscrew
  • blackbird6872blackbird6872 Member Posts: 9
    i have a 98 ram 1500 with 5.9 the air coming out of the heater is warm wile driving but cools at idl new thermostat what could it be :confuse:
  • bigblue2006bigblue2006 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new member, read all post on Air Conditioning problems and didn't see a match to my problem. Problem: AC goes down to about 56F with ambient outside at 84F while driving and won't go any cooler. System outputting 61F with truck parked at 84F ambient outside temperature.
    Checked system refrigerant charge and it is Normal at 43 pounds.
    About 1 hour later while driving AC cooling output gets warm and stays there. I also noticed when the AC air gets warm the dual climate control gets hot to the touch on the up right face of module.

    Could the climate control module be the problem?

    I checked all the fuses when AC gets warm and all are SAT.

    All HVAC doors work blowing air in all switch positions.

    Any one seen this problem? If so please advise. Thanks'
    BigBlue2006
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