Dodge Ram Climate Control

condor74

there is no vacume hoses to the a/c unit on a 2006 dodge truck. If you suddenly experianced a lack of air flow from the vents, you most likely broke your recirc door.

remove your glove box door and you will see an grid opening in the upper right hand corner. reach your fingers in there and see if you can feel the recirc door laying there . If so then it broke. You can remove your blower motor. It has 3 screws holding it. You can use a flat blade screw driver, or a T20 torx. reach your hand up inside and twist and pull the broken door out. Your air flow will be improved. That will get you by until you can get the housing replaced.

chilidav

So I was driving around and my a/c made this weird clunk noise, or at least I think it must have been my a/c. Since the noise my a/c seems to not be working right. I got in today and put it on high and had it on max. The a/c sounded like it was working at max but I could barely feel the air. My checks go like this, turn on the a/c on low, seems to work. Move it to the next level and it seems to put out a little more air, it was this way all the way up, but doesn't seem to put out like it used to. Like I said the air is cold, and is coming out of the vents, but when it's on max it almost sounds like it's trying to come out of the defrost on the passenger side. Don't know if anyone has had this before and I thought I'd ask before I take it in to be looked at.

condor74

You didn't say what year it was but, if you suddenly experienced a lack of air flow from the vents, you most likely broke your recirc door.

remove your glove box door and you will see an grid opening in the upper right hand corner. reach your fingers in there and see if you can feel the recirc door laying there . If so then it broke. You can remove your blower motor. It has 3 screws holding it. You can use a flat blade screw driver, or a T20 torx. reach your hand up inside and twist and pull the broken door out. Your air flow will be improved. That will get you by until you can take it into a shop or take the entire dashboard out to replace the recirc door housing.

air_door_fix

There is an aftermarket kit that will allow you to replace the door without removing the dash or paying big bucks to the dealer. The repair is well within the capability of DIYer's.

air_door_fix

A broken re-circ door is a common failure on the RAM. The actuator motor is a small DC motor that is geared too strong for the door and will break the plastic over time. When you pull the glove box fully open, you can see a grate in the upper right that is the intake for internal air. With the system set for external air source, you should be able to see/feel the re-circ door pressed against the inside of this grate. If it isn't there, it has likely broken off and is lying in the bottom of the box blocking air intake into the fan. The grate has little purpose and can simple be cut to remove the old door. There is an aftermarket replacement that is easy to install and will give full functionality with metal components that won't break again like the plastic.

The system is built to choose between either external or internal air, never both. With the door removed, both the external intake port and internal intake port will be open. At highway speeds, air will flow into the external intake vent and directly out of the internal intake vent...like having a window rolled down all the time at 70mph. You will feel a strong air flow coming in under the dash and this will kill any heating or AC efficiency. The door has to be replaced to get back to optimal performance.

revteebee

I am experiencing a problem with my A/C. I turn the a/c on and it blows cold and when i take off it blows cold. But when I slow down it makes a kind of clunk sound and starts blowing hot air. Sometimes it will start blowing cold again but i sometimes have to turn it off then back on. It also happens more the higher the fan setting. Also when i accelerate it stops blowing through the passengers vents and blows through the defrost vents. This happens whenever I press the gas to speed up. I have checked the freon level many times and don't know what else to do.

chilidav

Thanks for the info, I did find my door just laying there. Not too bad to remove either, just pushed it up and pulled it through the hole. I noticed that on the door, the side that is connected to make it move was broken. At least I have some air flow now. Does anyone have a link for the replacement kit? Thanks again.

corkscrew

Here is the link you are looking for:
http://www.heatertreater.net/

condor74

it sounds like the little plastic coupler that hooks the blend door to the blend door motor is broken.

What I usually do is remove the forward screw of the blend door motor and carefully pull it off and swing it out of the way pivoting on the other screw. It is difficult to remove the other screw due to how close it is to the floor. Once the blend motor is out of the way you can use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the plastic coupler out. if it cracked replace it and reassemble.

mahicks3322

I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.2l.
I have the "wild vents" syndrome where my vents at throttle switch to defrost.

I have done the following to locate/fix the problem but have some questions to get me further....

1. checked ALL vacuum lines with a vacuum pump. ALL lines hold vacuum except for the very thin vacuum line that goes through the firewall behind the glove box into the heater core housing area. This line holds vacuum for no appreciable time. Line does not seem to be damaged going into the firewall.

2. Installed the ram TSB fix for "wild vents" A 35mm cannister looking check valve/vacuum reservoir at the line before it enters into the firewall.....This helped the problem and allowed me to accelerate mildly before I lost enough vacuum to switch to defrost. It also recovered a little quicker but did not fix the problem anywhere close to acceptable.

3. disconnected the GREEN vacuum line that goes to fresh air door vacuum controlled pump behind the glove box. (it was the only easily accessible vacuum line I could get to. while I can see/feel the vacuum line coming into the firewall from the engine compartment, I cannot get to it easily to trouble shoot it.) I observed the following..
-While my vacuum tester is connected to the green tube with the ignition switch to on but engine not running, AND the defrost/vent switch on max a/c; I get a quick vacuum loss until about 4" of vacuum, then a pretty good hold for about 30 seconds. Then I lose all vacuum and it switches to defrost.
- With the engine running, I get normal vacuum at idle on the green vacuum line under max a/c, but a loss of vacuum on this line on every other switch setting and it goes to defrost.
-switching the defrost/vent switch while the engine is running to different settings seems sluggish but it does switch.

My question are (sorry for so many):
A. should I expect vacuum hold on the line going into the firewall to the climate control system?
B. How can I test the defrost/vent vacuum switch? I tried to pull off one of the colored connectors, but it seemed like I was going to rip the tubing in half so I stopped. Can I unscrew the two nuts on the back of the switch to disconnect the connector and isolate/test each port? If so, what am I looking for? This step is VERY important to me because it keeps me from ripping my dash apart further if necessary.
C. If my testing of the defrost/vent switch turns out that the vacuum problem is somewhere else, where/how do you recommend I look/test?
D. could my problem be corrected by installing another check valve/vacuum reservoir inline or make-shifting my own much larger vacuum reservoir?

Thank you for your help with this issue. I hope my trouble shooting makes it easier for you to give me an accurate diagnosis.

mahicks3322

sciec

Funny thing to read the posts...I just went to pick up my 2006 Dodge Ram with 19, 600 miles on it from the dealer for a prior service department repair. It was in for the steering recall and the wipers and blinker defects so widely discussed. (the ones where you turn on the left, and the right blinks...)

I got in it to leave, put the A/C on, and heard the low rumbling ubstructed air sound and got very limited A/C from the vents. I left the truck right where they parked it, and went back in and gave them the keys and asked to have A/C repaired.

Three years old, 19,600 miles!!! Three year, 36,000 mile warranty. What was this? A used car?

sciec

Hi, Same thing.. Please read post 266.

jrt8

I have an 01 1500 OffRoad, I can't control the climate. I want to just open the vent for cool air and it blows in hot air. Also when I turn on the A/C it still blows hot air. The A/C is charged and works fine. What do I do to fix it? Is it a problem in the dash where the nobs are, or is it behind the glove box dealing with the doors and the duct work?
Thanks

dodgeinuse

My blower motor has a life of it's own. It USUALLY will start first thing in the morning. After that - it stops, starts, changes speed, slows down, speeds up - all on it's own. Doesn't matter if on cool or heat or whatever. Today it came on great - high speed when I started up. In a while, it slowed by itself to very slow. Then off. Then out of the blue - it comes on like a gangbuster - very high speed. 15 minutes later - off. No rhyme or reason...

Please help.......Should I look at a new/used blower motor, or try the resistor 1st - at Autozone, the resistor costs more than a blower motor??????

What say anyone with a solution? THANKS MUCH............../ Don

dcm900

I've torn my 2005 Ram 1500's dash apart, cut the steel from in front of the mode 2 actuator. All the flappers are good. My control won't change the air direction from any of the positions. Defrost, floor, vent. It blows through all the ducts. the ricirc door is working, blend is working. Is it a computer problem? My next step is to check all the actuator motors with the battery from my 9v drill. When I run the truck and watch the actuators, all I can get to move is the blend and the recirculation doors. Any Ideas?

corkscrew

Go to this link and watch the video. The video is quite long but worth the time:
http://www.heatertreater.net/
Corkscrew

zara3

Hi Corkscrew;
Thats a good video.. would you be able to make one for a 2001 second generation 2500 diesel .. the Blend door in ours is either in the all the way Hot or Cold.. no adjustments inbetween, except for me in the passenger seat turning it on and off... also wonder if our air conditioners leak is under the dash there too, cause we can't locate that in the engine compartment.
Those Dash's are complicated to pull... and we would like to be able to fix it without tearing the dash out. Is that possible? anyway..Figure we'll fix it after we replace the tranny that just went with only 58,000 miles on it!!! Brother it's always something, this ones been a beast, bought it used and it's been nothing but trouble. :sick:
I've posted our problems before in this forum.. But you made a very nice video there. Hope you can make some more. Its Very helpful to see how its done~ Thanks~~:)

dcm900

I've watched the vids... That's why my wife's truck is torn apart. Physically, there's nothing wrong with any flap or drive motor. There all good. It is a good vid. I wish it was as easy as changing a flap now.

alansteven

when i tow my trailer. 6.5mts (23 ft long inc tow bar) it weighs 1440kgs (3000lbs) my 1500 2002 4.7 sport quad cab,runs 25% hotter...is this normal?...when i drive up long hills it gets hotter,on one occasion the `check engine` light came on..its not too much of a problem ..any advice would be great...all the best from the U.K.

corkscrew

This is not my video, but read message 207 and check the plastic limit pins

dcm900

I did a visual and physically turned the doors with the motors off. There all good.

corkscrew

If the tabs on the plastic limit pins are okay, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and then reconnect the battery cables. This procedure may allow the pcm to relearn where to stop the doors.
If the motor is good and the blend doors work properly and are not broken there is a reason the computer can't find a stop point and it goes into limp mode. Most problems occur due to problems with the limit pins or the doors. Check the switch just to rule it in or out.

corkscrew

Motor Failure: These motors are actually robust.They turn in one direction when power is supplied,and reverse direction when power is swiched.They hold a steady position when both wires are positive or negative The computer will drive the motor to a stall point in both directions, then it can count motor revolutions and stop the motor anywhere in between.If this does not happen then the computer shuts the motor down

dcm900

I tried disconnecting the battery all night, it didn't drive the motors. I powered up the motors whith my drill battery and some wires. I checked the gears in the drive mechanism..... I didn't think it could it be the switch, because recirulation turns on and off fine, it's on the same switch. Should I try a switch?

corkscrew

Check the limit pins, make sure the tab is not broken, also make sure the doors are not damaged. You may be able to get Auto Zone or Pep Boys to check for codes as the computer will not activate the motor if it doesn't recognize it's stop point and a code will be set..I would have someone check the switch before buying a new one.

rockstar8

So my A/C is I ce cold.Problem is the vents are not blowing air like it should.It's almost like there is something blocking the vents. It sounds like it blowin like hell but its not. I notice sometimes leaves and debree will come thru the vents when I first turn on the the air.Any sugestions??

dcm900

Got the Dodge dealer to check the system with their DRB3. Everything checked out ok in terms with the flappers. they said to replace the switch unit. I replaced the switch unit, now defrost is floor and it's all F#@&%d up. everything works, only when I go to defrost the floor vent comes on and the A/C compressor kicks on. When I go to Floor Defrost goes on. Does it need some sort of assigning?

corkscrew

If they installed the right switch and connected it correctly, it may take up to 20 starts for the system to relearn itself.

dcm900

I installed it...

jhsmith6185

While running the AC, the blower will just shut off. I know it's not a blower issue because, when the AC is shut off the lights on the buttons stay on as if it was not shut off. Any clues ???

Jim

riverrat57

Sounds like I may have the same problem, have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, last Thursday A/C worked fine except could not get it to select between outside air and recirc., then on Friday, the blower is blowing like a banshee but hardly any air coming out of the vents. I also, heard a loud pinging sound like a piece of plastic exploded. I have not gone to the dealer with this yet, but have read quite a few posts stating very simular or same problems, my truck has 53000 miles on it so I know that the warranty has expired, so I may have to try to repair myself, that is, if I can get the part(s). Any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated!

chuckiejones

I don't believe a resistor would be intermittent. It either is burnt out or is not. IT could be the connectors, however.

chuckiejones

Does anybody have the wiring diagram for the 2004 Dodge Ram?

I am working on a heater blower that quit. I have gained access to the rear of the blower switch.
I don't have voltage at the blower switch or the motor connectors. The common terminal at the switch connector is good.
I suspect a relay or a fuse.
I checked the motor. it runs with a direct connect to the battey.
I check the resistor. It has continuity across each of the three circuits.
I need to know if there is supposed to be + voltage at the switch or is it at the motor connector and where it comes from. ie. a relay or fuse or both. Where are they found to check them?

cowgirl65707

Just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500.....cold A/C when you first start out for about 5-10 minutes then it just starts blowing humid air, like the compressor has turned off. Stop the truck and turn it off for a few, restart and it will blow cold again for a few minutes then the compressor shuts off. Fan blows fine.

smokinjoe2007

Blower fan on 2007 Dodge 1500 will not work unless bottom of housing is slapped, then works fine for a few minutes then fan speed slows to a stop. Turn off fan switch and fan stops but a/c indicator light stays illuminated and then blinks until it goes out. When fan motor slows, I can get it to speed up if I hit the bottom of the housing. Recirc doors, and all work fine, it blows cold, although sometines it will not drain condensation. Even when hot air is selected, fan slows.

luis14

Sounds like your air recirculation door fell off. remove your blower motor above the front passenger side foot well and look in the hole the flap should be in thier broken off.

budnnan

Hi,

I just bought an 02 "cream puff" 1500 SLT v-8. So far the only problem I've noticed is that the two vents on the driver's side are blowing cold air while the other three vents are either blowing hot or outside air. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bud

KCRam

You are low on refrigerant and/or your blend door is broken. Common for this generation of Dodge Ram.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

kuhnzoo

2003 RAM 2500 5.7L QC 4X4 with 80K. Single Zone Climate Control. A/C works fine.

Since last winter, the heater does not put out very hot air, warm at best. The fan is blowing and appears to work in all various speeds as air volume increases and decreases as expected. Vents and air distribution seems to work properly as air blows from defrost vents when set on defrost, floor when set on floor, dash when set to dash, combinations, etc.

At the max heat setting, the air being expelled is luke warm regardless of outlet setting. Not pleasant when it is minus 20F in the middle of winter. Thermostat is good. Heater lines feel hot. No coolant leaks inside or outside.

Any ideas? I have read about a blend door problem door that seems common to this era of RAM truck, but most sound like they pertain to dual zone climate controls. Does this sound like to the case here also? Or something else maybe?

Thanks!

sehrnst

There is a defect in Dodge Ram Truck recirculation doors, inside the duct work. The plastic door breaks where the hinge holds it. The door then falls over the interior fan and causes the air flow to drop to about half. A telltale sign is the fan making a roaring noise with little air flowing. The good news is YOU CAN FIX IT yourself by just removing the (3) 8mm hex screws holding the fan in. Reach your hand into the duct work and remove the broken door. The air will now flow normally to feet, straight ahead, and defrost. I have just done this fix today and am not sure what the door's actual function was, but suspect it was simply recirculation of cab air. WE HAVE 3 TRUCKS IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD THAT HAVE THIS EXACT SAME PROBLEM. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL FOR SURE. Email me or post replies if you have this problem. Stevo

sehrnst

Incidently, I took my truck to the dealer and was told it would cost $700 to take the duct work apart before even paying for parts. They knew it was the recirculation door and told me so. It took all of 15 minutes to fix it, no parts. We have done 2 of the 3 trucks here now, the third one tomorrow. I bet we find a broken door laying on the fan again. Stevo (stevoharpo@yahoo.com)

dodgeinuse

That sound great! Thanks for your input here. We'll just remove the door!

/Don

KCRam

If you scroll back through this discussion, you will see this problem has been noted many times. There is already a TSB for it, and if your Ram is still under warranty or has either the Added Care or Max Care factory service contracts, it's a covered repair.

kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

kuhnzoo

Thanks to all for the replies. It is not the recirc door. I looked under the dash and the door is where it should be. It opens and closes properly. Also the air flow volume varies properly from low to high corresponding to the fan speed dial setting.

I did read through many of the entries in this thread, but none were exactly as mine. Yes, they were similar, but not the same. The most similar previous entries mentioned problems with cold air coming out both sides or one side when heat was desired. I have warm air coming out both sides, not cold air. And I do not have dual zone, which the others all had. Maybe that is not important and makes no difference??

I am gonna guess that I have a problem related to others that are similar, even if slightly different, and it appears that the blend door is the culprit.

zara3

Please keep us updated on any recalls or class action suits. It would be greatly appreciated! We have been dealing with a problem thats related to that same cheap system Dodge put into the dash, just ours is all the way hot/cold or nothing, so it's the blend door on ours. You can see my previous posts in this forum.. Meanwhile after 58K miles the tranny lost 3rd gear 2 months ago.. we had just installed the rebuilt ( Another nightmare) went to test drive it and the break line blew out! Apparently they also use cheap metal there and they rust out prematurely ! So Check your brake lines folks!! They should recall the whole truck! I'm just worrying What Next? :sick:

metalmike

my prob is the climate switch is stuck in the defrost mode. i can turn the switch but it doesnt go to the feet or staight ahead. would this be some kind of flap situation i was reading about? i do get plenty of air flow in defrost mode. thanks for any help. metalmike

buddyruff

Hey Man;
Thanks for the information....I did what was indicated and sure enough the door was broken and I removed it...Can you tell me what the purpose of that door is? Will it hurt the vehicle to NOT replace the door?---Buddyruff

danielmove

I had the exact same problem on my 2001 Dodge Ram with the cummings diesel engine. I checked the blend door motor and it was working fine. After removing the glove box I could feel the heater core and it was quite hot so I knew there was not a circulation issue with the hot water coming from the engine. I concluded that the heater core must be clogged up with debris where the air flowed through it....Sooo I went through the wonderful experience of dropping the steering colum / partially removing the dash / unhooking the heater and a/c lines / removing the heater / a/c unit from the firewall only to pull the heater core out of the unit....And low and behold it was in perfect conditon. No debris in it what so ever. I decided to go ahead and replace it and since I had gone that far I decided to break open the case and replace the evaporator core as well. That is when I discovered the reason for the entire problem. The evaporator core was extremely clogged with debris and was showing signs of oil leaking from it. I am amazed that I had such a good working air conitioner and such stong air flow with the evaporator core clogged so badly. Anyway after replacing the both the heater core and the evaportor core my truck now blows extreamy hot air. I am sure I am not the first one to find this problem but is does sound like it could be what you are up against as well. Please let me know if my situation turns out to be the same as yours.

sehrnst

Buddyruff, at the time I posted the fix, I did not know the purpose of the door. Now I do. It is used to close off outside air mix in order to heat or cool the cab faster. It can also be used to keep the cab cooler in extreme heat like Florida. Since I have removed the door, I have noticed no difference other than the air REALLY blows now! Could be I was just used the anemic air flow when the door was broken and laying over the fan. Thanx for posting. The administrator has informed me that this has been posted before, but it must have been awhile ago. Also, Dodge is supposed to know about it as they have a repair bulletin out. My dealer didn't seem to know the easy fix and wanted $700 to look into it. Benchmark of Birmingham. They should really be just pulling those doors out for people. Stevo