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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • Thank you for your quick response.

    I went to town this morning and the cooling fan stopped running altogether. It got hot and I had to wait for it to cool down before I could get it home. It is a 1996 and has 213,000 miles on it. It's been a great vehicle; I need something smaller because my kids are 17 and 19 now.

  • Hi,

    Any one who has experienced a similar situation to this. I have a 2005 town and country with 49,000 miles. Recently, the interior lights on the passenger side middle and back row will come on while driving for no reason and then shut off after a short period??? Any help would be appreciated.
  • '01 T&C: I carry a wheelchair & have successfully charged it up while driving with inverter connected to rear outlet for 12 months BUT now no juice to this & the other front outlet with power controlled by ignition switch. Power is on at the outle not controlled by ignition switch.

    Is there an in-line circuit breaker? Everything else works & cannot find blown fuse.



  • I have a 2001 town and country and the power doors and hatch work when the want to...and today the outside tepm claimed to be 90 out ..I thought it was funny being we had about 6 inches of snow on the ground ...I am afraid to get it checked any clue whats wrong... :lemon:
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    My 2002 T&C LXi has 3 powered doors (sides and tailgate). All of them work fine when warm.

    After the weather cools down to 50F, all 3 of them click (unlock), but don't slide.
    Sliding manually is working.
    After this initial problem, power sliding works OK in both directions.
    If a minivan is first warmed up, there is no problem.

    A dealer mechanic suggested there could be some door switch contacts oxidizing overnight or sticking. If this is true, where would I find it? Could it be on 3 doors at the same time?

    Please share your experinence!
  • I spoke to the dealer and they told me the same thing ....I have to replace all three of them...I will find out where they are in the doors and lift gate ...! (so what they are telling us is every winter we will have the same problem)....thats a crock....!!!!!
  • My wife and I bought a T&C Touring model with only 10miles on it from Urban Chrysler in Foothill Ranch, CA; sales guy was great, the car had issues- On the night we took it home, shut off to grab a drink, got back on the car and the electrical dash is dead; no lights, no gages, nothing. Then, the next morning, the car turns on and everything seems ok, until another week - it happens again, took to the dealership and got some lip service of them not finding the problem; I went to Disneyland the following weekend; same thing happening, cannot see gages or any electrical issue; I have posted a video for reference:
  • I just bought a 2006 T&C with 10mi out the door; on the first night, the dash cluster pooped out and all gages and display DEAD - i took it to the dealership to fix and they claim it was intermitent- so I got it back; a week later, it pooped again, took it to the dealership again- hook it up to their machine and they said everything was fine; then, a 3rd time happened; i video taped this problem:

    In any case, Chrysler is not taking responsibility and I'm very disappointed at this car, at me buying this car, and I just do not want any1 else to suffer the same problem(s)
  • I would see if there is some type of lemon law in your state.. Or I would take it to a differnt chrysler dealer. wish you the best of luck...
  • megcoumegcou Posts: 1
    after I replaced it, 4 out of the 6 buttons by my heat controls (the rear wiper button, rear wiper intermittent button, a/c button and air circulating button ) now blink for 20 mins after starting the car. Does anyone have any idea what this means?
  • I got a 2002 Lxi. Recently it has been acting wierd. When I open the driver or passenger door the parking, rear and fog lights go on. They never did that before. It does not have auto lights either. Now when I open the door and they go on, if I turn the light switch to parking lights then the fog lights go off but parking light are still on. If I then pull out the switch for the fog lights then all the lights go off just like the switch is set to off. If I turn the switch to full lights then they work fine and if I pull out the fog lamps they turn on. It is just like the Off and parking light/pull out fog setting is mixed up. The lights will go off automatically after like 5 minutes of leaving the vehicle. Anyone heard of this problem and any suggestions what to do? I thought of disconnecting the battery and see if that will reset it. thanks
    Thanks Reply With Quote
  • On a '96 T&C Lxi the interior lights stay on all the time with or without the engine running. It started as just a flicker but now they are constantly on unless I turn them off at the dimmer switch.

    Also with the key removed from the ignition, the piezo beeper stays on even if the interior lights are turned off at the switch. It does go off when the door is closed.

    I do not have the diagram of the interior fuse box so I can't tell what relay goes to what.
  • phoornphoorn Posts: 1
    Me wife and I lve in Holland, for a few months back we"ve bought a T&C from 96 LXI its a great car, butt now i"ve got a lillte problem with the head lights. Only the lillte lights are burning,(switch in the first pos.)
    Switch in pos 2 does nothing, also the great lights is dead.
    is there anybuddy who can help me out??

    grtzzzz Peet
  • ttoplihpttoplihp Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Town & Country Lxi and I have this electrical problem.
    I went to start the van and it clicked a couple of times and all of a sudden the starter motor started turning the engine over and never stoped until the battery ran down. Now when you jump the battery the starter just starts again.
    Can anyone help me here with an idea of how to fix this.

  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    Last week I got the same problem. If you do find out what is causing it I would also like to know.
  • flavifeflavife Posts: 20
    I have seen this happen when the copper finger in the ignition switch fails to return from the start position. This failure seems to be more common in cold weather when the contact grease hardens up.

    Since there is an electrical interlock with "Park" & "Neutral" on the shift lever I have shifted out of "P" or "N" and the starter shut down.

    In your case try securing the emergency brakes and have someone step on the brakes and have the shift lever in a position other than "P" or "D" and momentarily jump the battery and see if the starter engages. If it does not then the problem is the ignition switch. As a final test place the shift lever back in "P" and momentarily jump the battery and see if the starter engages again.
  • I too am having the same problems with my 96 T&C, did you ever find out why it was doing it? Sally
  • rival13rival13 Posts: 3
    I have a similar problem (but no solution as yet). My battery went dead and after I recharged it, the dash lights flash on and off continuously. I called the dealership, and the service rep was familiar with the problem. For fifty bucks, they will reset it. According to him, there is a sequence of buttons that accomplish the reset, though I am not familiar with which buttons he was talking about. I'm looking for the solution online, but haven't found anything specific.
  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    I found these instructions elsewhere on the site. I don't remember exactly, but it worked just fine. Hope it will for you. Actually I had to do it twice before it worked.

    *****With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free
  • I’m having the same problems with my 1998 Chrysler Town and Country LX. I find myself not going places because I’m afraid the vehicle will not start when I get back in it. The gauges turn off and antilock break and security light come on. I always said I would not buy a Chrysler, but this one was given to me. Have you found out what causes this problem?
  • tafkap777tafkap777 Posts: 1
    I changed the battery in my 2001 T&C the other day and now the radio won't work. The display is blank, it won't turn on and the lights on the equalizer just blink all the time. Could this be a built in security system issue of some kind? I have disconnected the battery again hoping something may be reset by doing so, but no luck. I checked the fuse and that didn't do the trick either. Any ideas?
  • dvd4dvd4 Posts: 2
    My vehicle is a 1996 Chrysler Town and Country LXI 3.8L with 85,000 miles. My problem started three weeks ago. I was driving down the road my engine shutdown without a sputter or a cough. I put the transmission in neutral and it cranked right back up again without any trouble. Two weeks later, after driving it everyday, the same thing happens again. Then, three days after that it stalled again and has not started since but it does cranks over. I have put a tester on the fuel ejectors and they indicate they are firing during the duration of the cranking cycle. Spark plugs have fuel on them after cranking. I have pulled the new spark plugs and grounded them and only get one brief spark at the beginning of the crank cycle. Fuel pressure at the fuel rail is 49psi. I have change the crankshaft sensor and put in a new coil distributor pack without any change in spark plugs. I have check fuses and swap identical relays for Auto Shutdown Relay, but still would not start. I checked codes by turning the ignition switch: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less I get 12 and 55. 12 is for the battery being disconnected and 55 indicates end of check. I have a camshaft sensor but believe that is more related to fuel distribution and not spark plug firing, but I am not sure. If it also could affect the firing of my spark plugs please let me know. I have also fully charged my battery. My problem seems to be in the fact that my spark plugs only fires once briefly and I do not know why. I hope it is not the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and if it is, why does it give me codes 12 and 55. I could would appreciate anyone assistance so I do not keep throwing money at parts I do not need.
    Thanks in Advance,
  • capshousecapshouse Posts: 1
    I'm having a very similiar problem on my 2002 Van. What was the fix?

  • chenko1chenko1 Posts: 3
    My cousin is loosing his mind and I'm trying to help him. So here it is. He changed the battery and now his radio doesn't work. I say its a safety feature for the radio and theft. But I could be wrong and he doesn't want to pay a dealership $40+ to make it work in 3 minutes. Anyone have an idea what could be wrong? We looked at the fuses and its not them. I still think he has to get it reset at the dealership unless someone can tell me how to reset it on our own. Thanks.
  • jlrjvrjlrjvr Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to find out what was causing this problem? We are in Germany, and we are experiencing the same problem, only it also has effected our driver's side brake light and blinker on the same side. We've replaced many fuses and bulbs, only to have them blow again. The military car repair center has no clue, and with the language barier we've been reluctant to go to the dealership here. And of course, we just barely went over the warranty mileage.

    Any information would be extremely appreciated.

  • We replaced the ECM (Electronic Control Module) had the same issue. Cost about $150.00 to replace, it is easy to do your self. It is just a simple plug in procedure.
  • Mine is a 96 too! Having the same problem, was able to stop the dash lights and controls from going off, by replacing the ECM, but still having the problem with it stalling periodically. Was told it might be the Knock Sensor, to totally take it out, but have not had the chance to do it yet, but I did unplug the EGR sensor, but still having it stall periodically. My husband is going to unhook the Knock Sensor (there is a TSB on the Knock Sensor) this weekend, will let you know if this works.
  • dpaynedpayne Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Town & Country. When I push on the horn to activate, it won't honk. I can push the panice button on my remote control and the horn will honk. I have checked the horn relay and fuses and they are good. Any suggestions?
  • chenko1chenko1 Posts: 3
    Yeah we dont have anything yet. I was hoping someone on here would have replied by now with something to fix it up. From some of the story's I've heard about dodge I'm glad I bought my Ford. Dodge seems to get you to replace everything they can think of so you spend money. Ford jsut fixes or tells you whats wrong period. Anyway I hope to have it figured out soon. If I do I'll post it for you guys.
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