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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • zookeyzookey Posts: 2
    it is most likely the clock spring in the column. i have a 99 caravan with the same problem. it is about a $70 dollar part and will require you to remove the steering whell to install
  • semmer2semmer2 Posts: 2
    Hey Chenko, it is your cousin here. Did you get any replys or emails for my van problem.
  • semmer2semmer2 Posts: 2
    hey tafkap, did you find a solution for yor 01 T&C?

    A few days ago I also had the same problem that you are experiencing, except I did not change my battery. I just noticed that my Malfunction Light come on. I talked to few buddies, and they mentioned that I should remove my necative wire off my battery and then wait a few minutes and that should remove the Malfunction Light, and that still didn't. So then I decided to remove my positive wire instead. When I did that,I noticed that my radio and display was not on at all. When the key is turned the ACC or IGNITION all that happens is the equalizer buttons blink. I have checked all fuses and still nothing changes to the display and radio. Iam ruunning out of idea's also. If I find out something, I will definately let you know ASAP.
  • chenko1chenko1 Posts: 3
    Yeah my cousin went to the dealership and they told him he fried the radio. I hardly think the radio is fried. the fuse would have blown first and the fuse is fine. We have the radio out and I installed a new Sony into the van. Very nice looking and much better than the crappy stock radio. So for now the stock radio is sitting there and as far as I'm concerned I dont care to find out now. He loves his radio. Thanks for your input guys.
  • Recently, the radio went completely out and will not turn on. The cd changer, however, powers up but will obviously not work without the radio. The only thing possibly related is that my A/C condenser is leaking and is being replaced. I checked the fuse and that is not the problem. Any thoughts?
  • furgsfurgs Posts: 1
    2004 Chrysler Town and Country LX
    Today when I turned on my left turn signal, I got that rapid clicking noise that indicates that my signal isn't working. Sure enough, the rear turn signal is not working, so I removed the bulb. The bulb appeared to be fine but my son took it to the car parts place anyway to get it replaced. The proprietor told him that the bulb is fine so that there must be some other problem.

    Where do I start? What could another problem be? All of the other lights/signals seem to be working fine.

    I'm leaving on a road trip tomorrow and would like to resolve this by then, if possible.

  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    From your description, it's hard to tell if the proprietor actually tested the bulb or just did a visual inspection. Anyway, try and switch one of the same bulbs, that are working from the other tail light, and place in the problem socket. If it lights up, you know it was the bulb. If it doesn't light up, it is the socket. Also, check inside the socket and make sure the metal connectors are clean.
  • makijomakijo Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a 99 Town and Country. The 12 volt power outlets do not stay on when the ignition is off thus I can only charge my phone when I'm driving. The manual says you can bring it in to the dealer and they can make it where the outlets stay on all the time. Does anyone Know how to do this?

  • itnojitnoj Posts: 1
    I have been having a similar problem with our 97 GC SPORT.
    The instrument cluster will just go dead van continues to run okay it just has no readout speed,temp,rpm, etc. Will try your suggestion.
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    While I have seen some similar threads about some similar behaviors, I didn’t see any that directly pertained to my issue. I have a 1997 Chrysler Town & Country V6, 3.8L with just over 100k miles on it. It has been a relatively reliable vehicle up until a couple of years ago. At that time the car began to intermittently not start. The battery was fine and charged, the starter would catch, and the engine would fire and run just fine for about 3 seconds and then stop. The engine didn’t stutter, just simply stopped as if the car was turned off with the key. It would repeat this and if left for several hours would start and run just fine. This has happened many times regardless of the season or if the engine was hot or cold. Recently this happened and a quick slap to the dashboard cured the issue!

    The local mechanic suggested replacing the ignition. After this procedure, the car ran fine for 3 months and then the same thing began happening again.

    At this point we went to a dealership. The mechanic did not know of any such common problems with this make and model. Several other factors have been considered in what is causing this issue:

    The first was an issue with the driver’s door power locks. They had been intermittent and showed up as an error on the computer diagnostic. The mechanic at the dealership theorized that the car’s computer would shut down the engine due to the error in the system. The door lock switch was replaced and the problem went away for several months… only to return again!

    Another factor was another intermittent symptom that came and went over a year ago. Upon starting the car, the instrument panel (lights and gages) all went out as if the car was off. The engine ran just fine. This happened several times and not directly in conjunction with the main issue. This also happened recently when we cleaned out the air intakes (by the wipers) with a bleach solution. After a little time in the sun, the panel lit up again.

    I feel like this could be a wiring harness issue or printed circuit board. The problem is I cannot replicate this in front of a mechanic, so it is a crap shoot. I would appreciate any and all suggestions. Thank you.
  • momstaxiemomstaxie Posts: 6
    Just recently my 2003 T&C 86,000 miles would start then immediately die. The instrument pannel would light up with security light car would start then die. Usually after the third or forth time this happend it would continue running. If the security light doesn't come on it seems we are good to go. It can happen once a day,once a week or more frequently.Had it to the dealer. They can't replicate the problem but can find many other things. Changed fuel injector,other filters. This didn't help.Others have posted same problem PLEASE HELP.
    The car also has this whining noise for the past year that the dealer cant'f fix or hear. Correction they fixed it when the car was 1yr old by flushing out the power steering system. It can be heard upon starting the car and is constant. It also gets louder when turning the steering wheel when in park or while driving. It is not weather or temperature related. I seems to be constant. We have once again flushed steering system, new steering pump in addition to finding other things wrong,new water pump,trans solenoid assembly you name it I think its been replaced still the noise continues. Routine maintenace is killing me because there is always something else wrong. After several thousand $, no warranty, and no plans for a new car I would love some help.
  • corytroncorytron Posts: 1
    I have a 98 grand caravan. A few years ago the same symptoms started appearing in the 98. It was getting so bad last summer that after two different 5 star Chrysler dealers couldn't fix it, I decided to look at it myself. It turned out to be due to the Chrysler CCD intracomputer module circuit being affected by bad solder joints on the instrument gauge circuit board. The outer joints were fracturing(just enough play in the cable to the connector?) and providing intermittent connection. If the dashboard got too hot the circuit would die. If you hit the dashboard with your hand it would work. The fix is to take the dashboard gauge out and resolder the connections. I did this last year and have not had a problem with the 98 since.
  • ringonbobringonbob Posts: 7
    Great! I will give it a whirl. Quick ?, how did you access the instrument gauge circuit board? Thanks!
  • madon32madon32 Posts: 1
    HI, I am having same exact issue,for about two years now,hit the dash it comes right back on until today hitting doesn't work I've taken it two different mechanics and each come back with different fixes if the fix in the next thread works for you could you please let me know thanks,also have a 97 Twn & Ctry
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    The whining noise is, indeed, the power steering. A couple folks have posted (cannot remember when or where, but it was here on Edmunds) fixes. I think it entailed adding a small radiator in the power steering fluid lines.

    I am not sure if it is really an issue, though, other than making the noise. Fords, especially the "older" trucks like pre-97 Rangers, F-series, Aerostar vans, are notorious for noisy power steering pumps. It does not seem to affect the system's longevity on those vehicles.

    I am not sure about your "security light" problem.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • i have a 2005 T&C touring. i have had problems with a strange noise coming from the steering. i took it back to the dealer at least 4times and thank god it was under warrenty. the dealer claimed they were not hearing the noise i claimed was coming from the steering so i made the dealer drive around with me until they acknowledge the sound. it would happen mainly when vehicle initially started up and i was moving in reverse. the problem i have now is with the power locks. i took it to the dealer and they charged me $100 to download knew software to the computer so the power locks would once again work. i asked for an explaination of why a vehicle that i purchased only 2 1/2 yrs ago power locks stopped working? the dealer would not give me a straight answer . i asked if the computer in the vehicle needed updated software why wasnt this something chrysler should pay for? again he went around the question. i just wanted to know if anyone else out there had this problem with the power locks just stopped working.
  • Hi Ringonbob,

    Read the posts on

    There is a whole thread (six pages) there talking about exactly the same symptoms as you describe, AND a fix for it.

    Has to do with the circuit board(s) behind the instument cluster on your vehicle. Some of the solder points are cracked, andneed to be resoldered. I just tried that fix, and so far so good.

    Here's one of my recent posts on that site - but go there and follow the whole thread because you'll get to understand it better:

    Well, I did as I thought to do: solder the cracked solder points (five of them) at various spots on the PRNDL3/Odometer circuit board - the smaller of the two boards found behind the instrument cluster. Spent $4 on a soldering iron, and $2 on some solder - plus a few hours pulling the cluster out and putting it back together (which is not difficult or complicated if you have the Chrysler CHILTON manual, or some other version of it). Put the thing together and what do you know. The car started up immediately after not having responded at all for over two days.

    And that was 4 days ago. It has started on every first attempt since. Not bad considering it (the cluster) died every single day before then for over a week. Though only time will tell, it looks like my vehicle is back in order. Have had some really hot days - over 110F - and some really humid ones, lately, but neither caused any problem. Before the solder job, those exact conditions were guaranteed to kill the cluster and result in the no start/run trouble.

    Not having any exact explanations of where on the cluster circuits to look, or pictures of what to look for, I scoured both circuit boards for solder points that looked like they should be connected but weren't - those points that had a wire right next to it coming up through a small hole in the circuit board and bending back toward the solder point, but not actually connecting - there were three that had a hair's width of space between the wire and the solder spot. I soldered all those together, adding a little more solder to ensure a secure connection. Then there were another two or three solder spots that had hairline cracks in them - I used a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion. Soldered those, too. I found nothing suspicious on the larger circuit board - the one that drives the needle gauges (fuel, speed, tac-o-meter, and temp guage). Everything was on the small circuit board that drives the PRNDL3/Odometer readouts.

    After soldering the suspect spots, I plugged the cluster back into it's socket in the dash, and the vehicle started up no trouble. I too forgot to try starting without the cluster in place, first. But then I remembered someone saying they tried it afterwards, and had no trouble running the vehicle even without the cluster. So I disconnected the cluster again and tried starting the van. Fired right up and kept running no problem.

    Interesting. Now it's all back together, and so far - for the past 4 days - it has brought us home every time. I am so thrilled.

    But only time will tell.
  • Dodgenightmare,

    Thank you so much for the response. I am excited to take a look at that smaller circuit board. I have pulled out the instrument cluster and the large circuit board on the back looks fine. My assumption is that the smaller board that you described is underneath the larger board, inside the cluster. I will report my findings. Thanks again.

    PS, I love your screen name.
  • Yes, had exact same situation. 2005 T&C LX and door locks not working. Remove battery cable to reset computer, and then they work for a few days and then they stop again. Take vehicle to Chrysler and am advised I need a software update to the computer and they charge me for it! Why are we charged for a problem with Chrysler's computer programming?
  • Hello, my husband and I have a 99 town and Country we have the same problem as well. All the above that u just listed happens to us. We had a new ignition switch placed on the car but this still keeps happening. Then there are times while we are drving that the dash and odometer lights all go out as if the car was off. If we continue driving sometimes it may pop back on, and even if we turn it off it may restart put the dash is still dead. Like you said this is hard to prove in front of a mechanic.
  • I have a 97 T & C and the airbag light is on, the cruise doesn't come on, and the horn doesn't work. All three of these pertain to the steering wheel, but I removed it and can't find anything disconnected and I can't find a fuse that would control all three. Is this a common problem? What could it be?
  • Hi. I just did some more searching and foud out that there is a recall on my 97 for the clockspring in the steering wheel/column that connects the steering wheel electronics to the rest of the system. Go to There will be a section where you can check for recalls. You put in the last 8 of your vin number and it shows what recalls have been put out, which ones have been completed or incompleted, that sort of thing. Hope this helps, good luck.
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler T&C van that has been having trouble for the past several months. The problems it is having are intermitant but happen every couple minutes. The headlights will flash on and off all the time while driving even if the headlights are turned off. At the same time all of the instrument cluster warning lights flash on and off and the speedometer and tach and all of the guages will come on and off and a lot of the time the guages will quit working altogether until the van is turned off for a while. The guages will come back on the next time the vehicle is started. I Have replaced the body control module already to no avail. does anybody have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated..
  • I took my 2005 T&C Touring model back last week for the recall on the seat belt sensors, and told them my locks were not working also. It cost me $557 for a new "control module" which supposedly controls all the electrical systems, icnluding registering mileage, etc. I have only $40,000 miles on it, and said I was flabbergasted this could happen. No reply, except "that's the way it is!" I am following up with Chrysler.
  • I am having the same issue along with a host of others.

    First the power doors only worked intermittently. Then the speedo gauge would go crazy and now doesn't work (although all of the other gauges seems to Tach, fuel etc.)

    The Air conditioner won't turn off. The fan control knob has the little light on it but does nothing. Fan always blows on high.

    The stereo just has the blinking EQ lights. This must be some anti/theft thing.

    I took it to a recommended repair shop that specializes in electrical work. they told me I need:

    New battery
    Right Door Latch
    Left Door Motor
    Front Control Module

    Parts = $839
    Labor = $675
    Total + $1619 :cry:
  • I had the same problem with my 01 GC. What you have sounds like a broken clock spring. This is exactly what it sounds like, except that it makes the electrical connection to the wheel instead of keeping a clock going. It coils up and releases as you turn the wheel. You can get them from, i forget the price. I know this is obvious, but be certain to disconnect the negative battery cable, or the airbag could fire when you make the connection. Hope this helps.
  • aedaed Posts: 8
    The dimmer switch in my '98 GC Sport has essentially lost its rangeability to adjust inside and dash lights. I haven't bought a replacement yet because I cannot figure out to access it in the dash and remove it. Can anyone explain how to get to it and remove it?
  • This is a question also,I have a 2001 Town and Country and last year we had to replace the ECU when it went out. It was having all these symptoms as yours and some more. Last weekend the battery died, well not died but terminals corroded and needed cleaning. We put a new battery in it any way and now it cranks and runs fine but these symptoms have started. The things that dont work is the a/c, wipers, radio, headlights, and rear vent electric windows . Am i going to have to replace the ecu again and if so I think Chrysler needs to do a recall or something :mad:
  • Just so you know, there are A LOT of us out there with the same problem. I have a 2005 T&C Touring with now 72,000 miles. I have been dealing with the locks for months! I have had 3 BCM (Body Control Modules) put in. Luckily I purchased the extended warranty and only had to pay $50 deductible. Problem was still not fixed. I just had it in 4 days ago again for locks and they replaced the lock control switch in the driver's door. This worked for a few hours and then the lock on the driver's side sliding door stopped. I took it back into them yesterday and they said the lock on that door needed replaced. They had that in stock and replaced it but while the door was apart found the gear for the motor to open and close the door was bad (why my door is so heavy to move) and replaced it. It works great now (and another gear is on order for the other sliding door). The locks so far are working. Maybe this was the magic solution. There are lots more threads on this issue in here if you look at the forum about windows and doors. Good luck!
  • Open the steering wheel, you find wire band (around 5 - 10 small wires rolled like a coil circle around the center of steering wheel, the wires band is very thin, to allow the electrical connect while steering, those wire might broke 1 or 2 wires, easy to fit, use razor blade to cut that wires band by 45 degree, stripped the band 45 degree that mean the insulation of each wire still half circle, that way wire never got short out, do the same on the other end by up side down, apply thin layer of solder on those wires, put the other end on top of this end, layed solder ion on top of those wire, solder melted and cool, you can use masking tape to taped over area you solder.
    Hope that work for you.
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