Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

mcottrill

i have a 1997 e350 with a 7.3 power stroke, the truck ran fine, shut it off now it won't start. the engine cranks over, but doesn't fire, no smoke. i've cleaned the battery terminals and the grounds on the block. with the key on engine off the "service engine soon" light flashes rapidly, the injector drive module relay clicks, something in the transmission is clicking, my "wait to start" light doesn't come on (no glow plugs), when i plug in a scan tool the tool says it can not communicate with pcm and my daytime running lights flash. all of these things flash/click at the same speed. i was told that the pcm was the only thing that gave the engine light a ground to come on, as well a ground to control the injector drive module (idm) relay, this discussion led us to believe the pcm was faulty, i got one from a truck wrecker put it in , dose the same thing! i realize that used parts can sometime be no good, but can't believe that i would have the same problem with a different pcm. maybe? as anybody had this problem?

cowboy9

Hey Dave,
You don't really have a water seperator but you do have a Drain on the Fuel Filter housing and that is located at the bottom of the Fuel Filter housing, it's a little yellow tab that you move to the left depending on which side of the truck you are standing, lol. As far as the Turbo you might wanna check to make sure your Waste Gate Valve is opening all the way.

Cowboy

cowboy9

Hey Trill,

Have you replaced the Cam Sensor it's located on the bottom left side near the Water Pump, kind of a pain to change only because they are in a tight place. There is only one bolt holding it in 10mm head that holds a plate on to keep it in place, once that is off just take a regular head screw driver and pop it out. The clip is usually easy to get off.

Cowboy

loki515

I have approx. 99700 miles on my 350, I ran low on fuel about a month ago when it started to get alittle colder outside. It started to run rough once or twice but just shudddered then sputtered then shut off. Let it sit for a minute and it would be fine. Now If I dont start the truck in the morning and let it warm up for atleast 5 mins it will make it up the street start sputtering and shut down. Now it will be a S.O.B. to get restarted for the nexxt 3-5 mins. once started will smoke heavly wit white smoke and more then likely will contunince to smaoke hard and shut down again. It goes thru this process a few times, then like magically it clears up and it runs fine again till tomm. comes. I have changed the filter, just put additve to clean injectors recently, I cant offer to send it to the shop to have it diagnosed. So, if anyone has any ideas of what else it can poss. be please help thanks in advance.

johnminn

85,000 miles on a 2005 F350 6.0L Diesel. Dana Axle.

The pinion bearings are going out.
It "Hums" under power.

Back off on accelerator and the "Hum" goes away.

If you get a "Hum" under load, check it out before it gets real spendy.
The shop wants "$700 to $800 for the bearing job.
NOT covered under warranty.
They say. that Ford has advised them that they do not cover that under warranty.
I'll fix it myself and make sure I don't get some of those China junk bearings.

John

mcottrill

i found the electrical problem with my powerstroke, the power wire feed the pcm relay had green spot (corrosion) in it about three inches from where the wire goes into the fuse/relay block under the hood, repaired the wire and all the clicking and flashing stopped, turned the key started right up ran great. i have no idea why the wire got a green spot in it, there was no cuts or marks in the outside insulation.

good luck to anybody having these symptoms, it took some time to find my problem.

matt

xbeeman412

Have changed the Glow Plug relay and all of the Glow plugs and still have a cold starting problem. With heater pluged in starts OK. Some times if I turn the key on and off cycling the glow plugs 4 or 5 times it starts but if I turn it off right away before warming up it wont start by cycling the glow plugs on.

I am in Galveston Tx area and temps are not cold..just 40s and 50s.

Thanks in advance for any help that You may help with.

Charles Steen

craig37

Hey Charles
Do not have a sollution for you yet but im having the same problem , have not changed parts yet , Possible problem may be a gloew plate in my 2000 350 w/ 120,000 , live north of chicago , anything under 38 degrees I must plug it in, Talked to a mechanic and he told me the possibility of a timer, relay , glow plug, or a glow plate ? when it does start at night and I drive off right away within 2 - 3 minutes the headlights get brighter which tells me the system is working through the timer Just like it has always done since new, they say the glow plate stays on for that length of time while warming up.But I usually just drive off.
I hope you fix it
Craig

johnminn

The dealership said that not only do the glo plugs heat up, but so do the injectors.
On my 6.2, I have to allow it a full 2 mins. of pre-start time for the heater relay to drop.
That is considered normal according to the dealer.

The glow plugs can be checked with an ohm meter to determine their condition.
Check the resistance specification for your vehicle, because there have been some changes in them down the line.
Worst case scenario, measure a new one, for YOUR specific engine, at a dealership parts counter or at a parts house.
You can unplug one of the glow plugs and hook a volt meter into the cable to determine if and how long the pre-heat relay is on.

Happy hunting.
Will ask around some more.
John

excursion2002

Check your oil. I had a similar problem. My oil was a few quarts low. I had the oil changed at a quick lube place and they only put 10 quarts of oil in. Being as I had just had the oil changed I didn't think to check the oil. Once the engine and fluids would warm up it would run fine.

Good Luck.

firebugz

You seem to be pretty smart on FORDS so I have a question for you. On my 2004 F-350 the light for water in fuel and glow plug lights keep coming on, I have drained the water,changed filter and removed the cover at the fuel filter on frame rail (the cover is the one that all the fuel lines and sensors plug into with 4 1/4 bolts) to remove all the GUNK and SLIM that was built up in it. I am still having problems with the light coming on, I drove the truck about 25 miles after wards. Do you have any suggestions?????

hca18

I was wondering if anyone out there has had an issue with a noise when letting off the accelerator. This occurs on my 2000 F-250 when I happen to splash through a puddle of water or sometimes just driving down the road. It sounds to me like it is coming from the exhaust right in the back of the engine. If anyone has any idea or knowledge of this I would appreciate knowing about it. Thanks.

flatcreek

I am in a similar situation as you on the sputtering of the engine. I notice it to occure when I take a moderate/fast curve to the right while driving. Also, if I am going up a hill from a dead stop, it severely shows out. I have to turn off my key and switch it back on to make the "check enginge" (symbol, not words) light to go off and most often correct the issue. Please, if you or anyone else can help me with this problem, inform me. :confuse: :sick:

flatcreek

Hey everyone.
Ref: #169

I forgot to sat that the truck is a 2002 F350 dulley crew cab, standard trans.
I hope someon has the answer to my problems. It has stumped three diesel mechanics already. Thanks

Anthony

kdean2608

Yes, I have in my 2008 King Ranch F250 6.4. Ford has a serious problem with certain components on this new engine till they work out the bugs. I have taken in twice before they finally figured out it was the camshaft sensor". It will idle high at around 1500 rmps sometimes, which when you get to 80mph may result in even higher RMPs and results like you and I both have had with "lagging" accelleration. Mine is doing it again now after the first camshaft sensor changed around 10000 mi. I am at 17000 and it is doing it again. Love this truck, but mileage sucks and this issue a concern. At least it is under warranty and if it blows, get a new one.

goldman1

My mileage is horrible on my 2008 F-450 6.4 as well. Can you tell me what mpg you're actually getting? When mine idles by itself for a short time, the rpm's start to climb on their own up to about 1300-1500 rpm. This is without a/c on. When I put it into drive, it comes back down. Thanks for your info. It's nice to know I'm not the only one out there who loves their truck, but hates the mileage!

blueford

My Excursion will not start. What are the different causes for not starting?

In the mid-morning the truck started with out issue. I parked the truck for about four hours, then tried starting it. At this point it just turns over and cranks, but will not start. I put a new battery into the truck and had the other battery charged. Still will not start.

Earlier this year, the truck had an Oil Rel Lower FD P/S and Pump HP Fuel FD 7.3 Late replaced. Could this be the cause again?

brianahall

Anybody know if the ATS turbo up grade is worth it and does it work reliably with a stock engine?

brianahall

I think maybe your turbo vanes are sticking. Soon you may feel the engine breakup during acceleration along with this "turbo fart". I am on my 3rd turbo and about ready to get it looked at again. Good luck.

gerlad1

Following a major repair deal on my 2004 F250 6.0Liter,, which included new turbo, new head gaskets, new EGR cooler and ?? fortunately at Ford's expense. I have now been getting a P0603 Error code--Which clears and then returns. Internal control module KAM error. My Ford service guy keeps telling me not to worry about it. It can be cleared via diagnostic tool,, but comes back in about a week.
Anyone familiar with this? Should I be worried?

hca18

Thanks for the advice I will have to look into that. I think I may have some issues with a turbo seal as well. I have noticed that I am leaking oil out of the intercooler line. The turbo still winds up fine and seems to be running well just havent got the chance to really look at it yet. Did you have that same noise on your truck that i was trying to describe?

brianatcfan

I have what sounds like an exhaust leak on the drivers side, the dealer has replaced both exhaust manifolds with gaskets, given a smoke test and they can not find a problem, I can hear the noise still

mschmal

The truck will increase revs if it need to heat up the exhaust to keep the emissions equipment going at peak performance.

As for the bad fuel economy. I've posted enough about that before.

Mark

jfarrow

I own a 1998 super duty 4x4 diesel. Recently the vehicle quit engaging in 4 wheel drive. I took it to be serviced and was told that it needed an electronic control module, but that part was back ordered until 2011. That is not a typo: 2011. The dealer has been unable to locate the part and is currently searching salvage yards. I would like to hear from people with similar experiences or advice on how to fix the problem. As I understand it, I am stuck with a 2 wheel drive 4x4 unless the junkyard comes through.

cowboy9

Have you checked with your local auto parts store like checkers, napa or carquest ? Like 300 at checkers I think.

jfarrow

Thanks cowboy. That would be the common sense thing to do, but the guy who works on my vehicles and the dealer have both told me that the part is not available, period. I specifically asked them about other suppliers and they told me no luck. It can't hurt to try though. Thanks.

johnminn

I will check with my "super supplier".
Mike not only knows the parts business like no one I have ever seen before, but he also knows a lot of the "dirty little secrets" such as "if you check the grounding wire located in the trunk, you will find it is corroded". Believe it or not, that fixed the problem with a relay, located under the hood, dropping out. I don't know what goes on in that guys mind, but he is priceless.

jfarrow

Thank you very much. As I understand it, this truck uses a fairly funky vacuum system to control the 4 wheel dirve, the power door locks and the vents (defrost, upper air, lower air, etc) in the ac system. They are all tied together and controlled by this one electronic module. I can think of lots of things that would cause problems. Any help would be truly appreciated.

johnminn

I spoke to two individuals. One at Kelly Auto and we discussed your problem and I asked their permission to post their name and phone number which is 507-334-7035. They do have the module which goes on the transfer case in stock. My Ford mechanic said that “When you don’t use the 4 wheel drive for a long time, sometimes the module on the transfer case fails to make contact”, “What we do is to put one guy in the cab and put it on the lift” “While the guy in the cab puts it in drive (engine running), and then presses the 4 wheel drive over and over until it engages, at the same time, the second mechanic is taping the module with a hammer”, “That fixes about 90% of the 4 wheel drive engagement problems”. “If that doesn’t work, we replace the transfer case module”.

Hope my friends have been a help to you.

John

johnminn

PS:

I forgot to mention that Kelly's shuts down at noon on Sat. and opens again Monday AM. We are in the central time zone.

jfarrow

John,

Thank you so much for your reply. I plan to call Kelly's on Mon.and see what we can do. If this works, and I am ever in your area, drinks are on me.

pollack57

I Start My 6.0, Drive For awhile,Then It Dies. I Have To Wait A Few Seconds To Start It. It Starts,Runs For About A Minute Then Dies. Can Anyone Help Me With This Problem?

bigwalleye1

Kingcwill:
You have described my problem exactly!!! I only today found your posting. What was the final fix, or haven'y you found it yet??
I'd appreciate any info you have

Bigwalleye1

cowboy9

Thats your Cam Sensor next to the Water Pump, well on the 7.3's thats where it's at, just one plug into it, should take a 10mm wrench for the bolt that holds it in, then maybe a Straight Screwdriver to pop it out. Pretty much have to replace this part from under the truck because of where it's at next to the Water Pump.

powerstroker1

Just enrolled to this website. I'm having exactly the same problem yoo had, when it rains the engine sputters and stops running when coming to a stop sign or light. Did you fing out what the problem is? :sick:

pollack57

can anyone tell me where the cam sensor on a 2003 f-350 6.0 powerstroke is located.

tcollom

Have a F-350 Super Duty Crew Cab 7.3 L Diesel truck. After parking the truck, recently began noticing a small drip of diesel fuel from the engine. Any idea where this slow, spotty drip of fuel may be coming from? Any help would be appreciated.

ohbluto

My '04 F350 Diesel 6.0 with 200K (dually) did the wierdest thing 5 times this week. With temps below freezing in upstate NY, the truck just quits....doesn't stall out, but just goes into idle. I shut it down, immediately restart it and it's fine. I'm using good quality diesel and using a fuel additive called Seafoam with every tank....as a footnote, I recently had the injector sensor replaced if that helps at all. Anyone know what this problem is and how to remedy it????

Doug in NY

gerlad1

I have a 2003 F250 6.0 (100,000 miles) and had had periodic problems with the engine going into "idle" while on the highway and in town ever since about 20,000 miles. Numberous trips to Ford and writing to them was no help since every time I took it into Ford--no error codes and as one might suspect--didn't act up for them.
FINALLY, at 90,000 miles) after changing out accelerator controls, etc. one mechanic finally told me that he found the ICP (whatever that is) signal was erratic. He changed/replaced the pigtail connector and 10,000 miles later--no more dropping into idle and the engine appearing to shut down. According to the repair sheet I got at the time, they replaced the 4C3Z*12A690*BA and the 4C3Z*12A690*AA wire assemblies.
According to my research, the problem encountered with my 6.0 is similar to the problems with the cam sensor experienced with the 7.3s,, But as best I can tell the 6.0L does not have the cam sensor problem of the 7.3s. Just a whole host of other problems such as EGR coolers, head gaskets, turbo problems, etc. Truck pulls great, fuel economy sucks. But, in any case, engine appearing to shut down in heavy freeway driving and having to scramble to pull over out of traffic problem on my truck appears to have been finally solved.

ohbluto

Hey Gerlad,

Thanks for the input....I'll follow thru and hope to get somewhere.

Ohbluto

bigwalleye1

If anyone lost in cyberspace ever finds this and has this exact problem, take it to the dealer. It's fuse #45 that blows, a 10 amp, and this pickup it's the 4th fuse from the right in the bottow horizontal row. All gauges shut down, the truck will idle but not accelerate. There is a short in the shift column somewhere, and it's the gear change that causes the wire to wear through and short. Have it done when it starts and it'll only be a couple hundred. I couldn't diagnose the problem correctly initially, and was blaming it on something else, and it began to happen every shift sequence, and by the time the fuses were blowing on a regular basis, it cost me a whole new fuse panel and $750.

Good luck and DON'T WAIT.

snowbear

Is there a place on the 'net where I can find the service bulletin referencing this issue? My '03 F350 with the notorious 6.0L is having this issue and the dealer is balking on fixing it.

Thanks

dannos

I bought a new 2008 6.4 diesel and blew 2 injectors with less than 500 miles. They replaced them. I now have 8,000 miles on it and the tail pipe is as black as the ace of spades. Everyone who owns a 6.4 says "I have a sick engine". No check engine light, no decrease in power or mileage. Just a really black tail pipe. It looks like an old diesel tractor. I have only used ultra low sulfur diesel. I've done everything right. I also can't remember when it went through one of the purging cycles to clear out the particulates.

johnminn

Shortage of oxygen in catalytic convertor?

Just a question for comparison.
How is your fuel mileage?
I vary from 19 to as low as 11 under load on my 6.0..

johnminn

That cooler also failed on my 6.0, the dealer replaced it under warranty. (Just before head gaskets blew).
It is thought to be related to turbo control glitch which causes tubo pressure to spike for a second or two.

I DID find (once) a site where the bulletins were posted, but can't find it back.
I will try my other hard drives (I use a hard drive drawer system) where the URL is recorded (I hope).
It was a Ford enthusiasts web site and I did do a search using the same search (Ford 6.0L diesel head gasket problem) but just could not find them back.
Other sites want to sell you a subscription, and Ford site does list them, but allows only members.
John

cowboy9

Okay I am not sure and taking a stab in the dark on this one, but is this your first Diesel by chance ?

mcdermottseatt

Someone please help me. My 2002 F350 was sitting for about a month with about an 1/8 tank of diesel. I started it up. It ran for a minute and then died. It has never done this before. Now I am having a hard time getting it started. It will run and then die, almost like it is not getting fuel. Does this have something to do with the truck sitting for so long with a relatively low amount of fuel? What do I do now? Please help. Thanks, Scott

KCRam

Ford has announced a recall on 1997-2003 F-Series, E-Series, and Excursions to replace the cam position sensor on 7.3L Powerstrokes... read more here: CNNMoney.com - Ford recalls 1.2 million diesels

kcram - Pickups Host

dannos

No it's not. EVERYONE who owns a 2008 tells me something is wrong. Their exhaust pipe is perfectly clean. So far about 7 people have brought it to my attention.

wpalkowski

You could have water or algae growing in the fuel after it sat. Get a bottle of diesel fuel treatment additive and put it in the fuel tank.

Check your water separator. Drain any water out.

Most important: Buy a new fuel filter and change it out too.