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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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    dannosdannos Member Posts: 7
    And yet another Ford denial. My 2008 blew two injectors @ 499 miles. It did the same thing as yours did. It blew out a big puff of white smoke and wouldn't start. If you will look when you truck was manufactured, you will probably see that it was built between Jan and May 31,2007. This means that the dealer should have replaced injectors 1,5,7 before it left the lot. Ford is not telling you this. Unfortunately, my truck blew 2 & 8 and after 6 days in the shop, I got it back. Now my truck's exhaust pipe is as black as an old Peterbuilt truck. They are telling me that this is due to all the fuel that was dumped in the exhaust system (10,000 MILES AGO). I know I have a lemon and it sounds like you're going to continously have problems. Other than the engine, I like the truck.
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    superduty3superduty3 Member Posts: 11
    no coolant in oil. ford dealer here in ky is useless, they dont even work on them. talked to a guy who works on catipallers and he said on going problem and will continue no matter what you fix its prone to 6.0 think i will change myself that way i know its done right.
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Time to take out the pair of iron gloves and smack them in the mouth.
    Start here
    http://www.answers.com/topic/magnuson-moss-warranty-act-1
    Note that at the bottom of the page is a list of sites to go to which include the federal site.
    File a complaint with the federal government.
    Go to congress.org and on that first page you will see a box for your zip code. Enter your zip code.
    Now you have the list of Senators, the Representative and the presidential contacts.
    Use the email, fax but not the letter because letters must undergo Anthrax exams.
    You can use the congress.org personnel who will hand carry a letter to the person you want to contact.
    You will also note that here is a local button on the page showing the DC contacts.
    Get you local contact numbers and repeat above.
    ALSO
    Do this by the numbers to insure that you will get proper results.
    How Do I Claim a Lemon Law Refund?

    Generally, there are three steps to follow if you wish to claim a Lemon Law refund.

    1. If you believe you are entitled to a refund or replacement for your vehicle, you should notify the manufacturer by registered, overnight, or certified mail. Keep a copy of this notice for your personal records.
    2. If the manufacturer does not resolve the problem within 10 days, you may request that the manufacturer replace the vehicle or refund the purchase price, minus a fee for your use of the vehicle.
    3. If your request is refused, you may hire an attorney and file a lawsuit against the manufacturer. However, if the company offers a dispute resolution service, you must go through this process first.
    Try to stay away from blood sucking leeches (aka attorneys) unless you have a very rare bird you know which is called "an Honest Attorney". You can (if you apply yourself) do a better job than most fat reared, lazy, worthless, lethargic, self serving, lying, cheating and stealing "attorneys". I actually know two honest attorneys, but they are not cheap. The law is on your side, apply the law.

    ABOVE ALL keep a dated, timed log of mileage driven, contacts made, letters written and all expenses incurred. I use a digital camera to document a lot of things, (think about it.) If you really want to tighten pucker strings, have the offending party sign the log page. Yup! I fight dirty.
    If you want blood, you need to know exactly how to get it. The fed site also lists procedures.
    A set of "iron teeth" helps :D

    John

    PS. Get a digital recorder. Some look like a pen, put another couple of pens in your pocket so that it looks normal. Record the conversations with service, and management.
    PPS: Please tell the Senators and Representatives the all that PCA garbage does little to improve the pollution control, but adds a full days work to get it out of the way to get at the engine to service it.
    PPPS. Ford and GM are getting out of the country to avoid paying decent wages.
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    :lemon:

    Laws in all fifty states and the District of Columbia provide remedies to purchasers of defective new vehicles, often called lemons. These so-called lemon laws protect consumers from substantial defects occurring within a specified period after purchase, and provide that a manufacturer must either replace the lemon with a new, comparable car or refund the full purchase price.

    Certain States have gone beyond the magnuson-moss-warranty-act

    A very quick link to see what your States legislation is go to:
    http://www.carlemon.com/
    Click on your state

    Warranty Info and battle ammo

    magnuson-moss-warranty-act-1
    http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_LemonMM2.html

    Best site I have been able to find is:
    http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act

    A full discussion of warranties including Magnuson-Moss is at
    http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.shtm

    Happy ammo hunting.

    I would suggest having a copy of legislation to hand to "your" dealer.
    He knows, but needs to know that YOU know and your done playing "parlor games".

    John

    :lemon:
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    superduty3superduty3 Member Posts: 11
    had same problem with mine. there is a tsb for recailbrating the computer. it has to do with the fuel injecters, it cost about 200 bucks. they have to reset the perameters for the injectors. hope this helps
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    "it cost about 200 bucks."

    Beyond Warranty?

    If it is covered under a TSB, you have certain rights.
    Under the Magnuson-Moss your problem may still be covered.
    Be sure to check your States "lemon law". As stated before some States have put more "tooth" in their laws.
    If the condition was reported and worked on under warranty, but the problem continues, you still may have "under warranty" rights.
    For $200.00 I would surely take the time to find out if I could make Ford pay for their problem.
    He who does not know his rights has none.
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    superduty3superduty3 Member Posts: 11
    was told not under warr, just info to better serve customers. gladdly paid to fix problem. the dealer told me since i had never had any service work down on truck at any ford dealer it was on me, thats how it works at any dealer.

    SUPERDUTY
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Is there any particular situation under which you seem to lose coolant?
    For example heavily loaded, climbing hills.
    As far as stop leaks are concerned:
    The best I have found is Conklin Dike.
    The Justice Brothers stop leak comes in a close second.
    I actually fixed a "cracked block"* with Dike.
    *Don't know that it was a cracked block, but that is what the customer claimed it was.
    I did see that the radiator pressure did climb with #7 cylinder. (By pulling one bank of plugs, Throttle held wide open, ignition disconnected, cranking, watch gauge carefully.
    If you don't see any pressure change, re-install that bank of plugs and go to the other.
    With that you can zero in on a compression leak rather quickly.)
    Following a treatment with Dike, the problem "disappeared" completely in a few days.
    I am not a great fan of "mouse milk" fixes, but in certain situations they are called for.

    John
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Ford and their dealers are "shooting themselves in the foot".
    On exactly the opposite side of the coin, we have a GM dealership reasonably close to here where even other dealers send their "What the over" problems to them. As a result, they continue to grow while other dealerships are having a "rough ride".
    They find a way of covering many of the "that's out of warranty" problems under warranty. Even when they can't "get er done", their top tech is so good that he minimizes the cost by telling the service personnel how to get at the problem in the most efficient way and returns are all but nonexistent.
    You would think that others could learn from their example, but it seems that few dealerships get the message.
    Those who realize that "customer is king" don't have to spend a fortune on advertising because the word gets around quickly that there is actually a dealership which cares for it's customers.

    John
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    superduty3superduty3 Member Posts: 11
    i have been keeping close eye on it for about 2 weeks now, not a drop missing. sometimes when cold, ill coast down a hill and power up to go up not a big hill, truck will stumble billow white smoke and clear up in seconds. hot restarts, truck normal temp. stop for fuel and sometimes will run fine but billow white smoke for seconds, very interm. there is a tsb from ford on a recalibration to the one ive already had regarding injectors. thats when i noticed it after repair. truck is unmodified, do have a mean green air filter which was bought from ford. just normal driving not towing anything.

    SUPERDUTY
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    rcollierrcollier Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 F-250 auto with 176,000 miles. When it is 20 degrees F or below is has a dead spot at low rpm and a real high pitch whistle. When I give it more fuel it comes out of it until it levels back out and then the same thing, more fuel it comes out of it and so on.It also uses alot more fuel when this happens. Warmer temperatures it runs great. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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    sprouts1sprouts1 Member Posts: 3
    Could you let me know what the problem was with your truck??.
    We are having a similar problem. We have a 95 Ford F350 diesel and it quit running every once in awhile. Now it stopped running and it keeps blowing a 30 amp fuse. It is eating the fuses up.
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    kat41kat41 Member Posts: 1
    Having problems with our 1999 ford f-350 it stops running --blowing fuses anyone having the same problem
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    powerstroker96powerstroker96 Member Posts: 2
    I cannot get my 96 psd to start, I was told that it could be to things weak batteries and glow plug relay, but my question is should the glow plug relay click when the wait to start light goes off?
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    powerstroker96powerstroker96 Member Posts: 2
    just need some advice, pretty new to the PSD and most diesels in general, just dont want to throw parts at it and not fix it
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    sprouts1sprouts1 Member Posts: 3
    We were just having the same problem with our 1995 Ford F350 powerstroke. We spent alot of money replacing alot of parts and what we came down to is an altenator. We had a brand new altenator in the truck and it still did the same thing, so that is when we tried other possibilities but nothing worked. We took the new altenator out and brought it back for an exchange and put it in the truck and it is working so far. We believe we just had a faulty new altenator the first time. Good luck with this.
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    sprouts1sprouts1 Member Posts: 3
    We have a 1995 F350 PSD and ours clicks when you turn it on but when the light goes off it stops clicking. There should be no clicking when the light goes off. Most auto stores will test your batteries, you just have to take them out and bring them down and ask them to test it.
    What is it exactly doing when you try to start the truck??
    Is it turning over, turning over slow, only clicking??
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    mopar5mopar5 Member Posts: 4
    check your heater element at the bottom of your fuel filter...it blows your fuse sometimes to so it doesnt start or no communation with the scanner....
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    chrisisannoyedchrisisannoyed Member Posts: 2
    I BOUGHT THIS TRUCK A FEW MONTHS AGO. NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS.FIRST WHEN I START IT UP IN THE MORNING IT SOUNDS AWFUL COUGHING BLOWING BLACK SMOKE, THEN PERIODICALLY WHEN I DRIVE IT STARTS TO JERK BACK AND FORTH BLOWING THICK BLACK SMOKE. DEALERSHIP FIXED STICKY TURBO AND EKG VALVE....STILL THE SAME THING IS HAPPENING.NOW ITS TAKES A FEW TRY'S TO GET IT STARTED IN THE MORNING.THE DEALERSHIP IS TELLING ME NOTHING COMES UP ON THEIR DIAGNOSTICS MACHINE.THIS IS SO IRRITATING, THERE IS OBVIOUSLY SOMETHING WRONG AND THEY WONT FIX IT.DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY ADVICE.HELP!!!
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    superduty3superduty3 Member Posts: 11
    have you had the recalibration done for the fuel injectors? might be problem, mine did same thing but blew white smoke. worth asking at ford dealer. doesnt cost but 200 bucks.
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    chrisisannoyedchrisisannoyed Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice I'll give it a try , this will be the 10th time I've brought it to them in 5 months.what a hassel!!
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    mopar5mopar5 Member Posts: 4
    howdy howdy ...i fixed alot of diesel with the injection pressure regulator leaking throw ...late
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    mopar5mopar5 Member Posts: 4
    howdy howdy ...look down in your fuel filter housing and the heater eliment is at the bottom of the housing ....the heater eliment brokes,,,,hope it works late
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Thanks for a great tip.

    Everyone needs to note that in the note section of their owners manual.

    With the super cold snap we just had, I had a vehicle which started and ran perfectly.
    I parked at the site I was working and the wind chill was 41 degrees below zero.
    Got in to start it, cranked over nicely, but NO GO.
    Got ride home, and waited for less deadly weather.
    Tried to start the dead vehicle one more time (now +14 degrees).
    I was sure that when the vehicle failed to start that I was not hearing the fuel pump. I turn on the ignition and listen carefully, especially in cold weather. Real good idea to know the sounds of the system when all is well, that way when things get strange, your ears just might point you in the right direction. Fuse was good, relay seemed good. I could hear the relay click.

    Problem?
    The severe cold caused the wiring harness to shrink and that partially opened the connector in the harness which ran to the fuel pump.
    Repositioned the harness, checked to see that none of the contacts in the connector had pulled back.
    One was, corrected that. Problem seems to be solved.
    Ain't that a pip.

    John
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    rcollierrcollier Member Posts: 3
    As far as my message # 267. Is there anyone out there with this same problem? Help.
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    kentucky3kentucky3 Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Excursion when cold soaked will engage the starter when you turn the key to the warm up position. This has burnt to starters up in the last twelve months. In my trouble shooting I have found that by going to the start position this aborts the start . I can release the key to the center position and the glow plug indicator will go out after it warms up and a normal start will occur.
    The dealer is unable to fix this problem, can someone help with a solution.
    :cry:
    Thank you all!!
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    johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    It sounds like your in for a new ignition switch.
    Not fun, but doable.
    Are you in the habit of hanging "20 pounds" of keys on your key ring?
    A heavy batch of keys is your ignition switch's worst enemy.
    2 or 3 keys is a much better idea.
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    kentucky3kentucky3 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your input, just a follow up question.
    Wouldnt this occur hot or cold if it was the switch?
    I only have the one key on the ring
    Again THANK YOU for your time
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    josijosi Member Posts: 4
    I have 70.000 miles front wheel bearing failed. Should I worry and change the opposite side ? Is this a commen problem ?
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    orchiddjorchiddj Member Posts: 13
    Hi All,

    My 1990 International 7.3L Diesel (Ford F-350 box truck, 190K) just started making a noise that seems to be coming from the engine. The truck is running a little rough at idle and the noise seems to come and go. While driving it gets louder during acceleration (not extremely loud and slight power loss) after getting up to speed the truck runs and sounds fine. No overheating. No oil in water or water in oil. Oil pressure fine. The only other thing is there seems to be a stronger exhaust smell. Exhaust pipe and manifold look fine, no signs of leeks. No hard starting.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Also can anyone recommend a diesel mechanic in the Fort Pierce, Florida area.

    Thanks
    Jim
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    goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Check the engine oil for a fuel dilution. You may have an injector going bad. If the oil smells like fuel get it repaired quickly. A fuel dilution can wipe out the main bearings very quickly. The Ford dealerships seem very good with these engines. Good luck.
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    wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    You should always replace axle-related items in pairs. Brake Pads, Calipers, bearings, brake cylinders, etc.

    First and foremost, for your's and everyone else's safety on the road: you want the vehicle to steer and stop evenly and straight. If you only replace one side, you could find that the new side now spins freely, but the other old side spins slower by comparison due to wear, etc., and as a result your truck is pulling to one side or the other. Could make driving a challenge......

    Second, if one side failed, the other usually isn't far behind.

    70K miles isn't unheard of. Have the bearings ever been cleaned and repacked with grease? It's usually done when the brakes are serviced. If they weren't, then dust and moisture contamination in the grease could've increased bearing wear leading to a failure.
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    wpelecwpelec Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 94 f250 diesel non turbo when you drive down the road rpm fluctuates between 30 mph and 50 mph once you get up to speed it no longer does this. Was told was tranny problem had rebult. told injectors and pump had rebult. told tps had reset still nothing. when you let off of accelerator rpm drops to zero on tach engine still running like i said though once reach speed no more problem i am at a loss truck rus great just cant seem to reamidy problem any help would be much apreciated.
    Thanks
    todd
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    speeddwarf90speeddwarf90 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F250 7.3 (the real powerstroke, haha). I bought it with 209,000 miles on it and i havent had any problems with it besides an alternator around 225,000...until now. Around about 240,000 It started having a hissing sound come from the passenger floorboard. When i got on the pedal it would continue, however, when it stopped i noticed a slight gain in power without changing pedal pressure. It only happens when its cold outside. Now there are more little things going wrong with it. I have a hum when i accelerate, when i turn, and when i brake. I can "feel" the hum in my foot on either pedal. I was thinking it had something to do with the booster but im not sure. All fluid levels are OK.
    Ive always been a Chevy man and i have since been converted to a Ford man by owning this truck. It now has about 250,000 miles on it and i tow a 12,000lb. mini excavator around 2 to 3 times per week. I drive it pretty hard, but not hard enough to break it, this is a tough truck. I change the oil at least every 5000, air filter every 2 oil changes. If someone could give me an idea on at least where to start it would be appreciated.
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    dbweaverdbweaver Member Posts: 88
    I have a 1999 that makes the same noise when its cold outside.I think it is the turbo wastegate. I bought mine new and it has always done it when it is cold.
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    rstein6224rstein6224 Member Posts: 1
    Mine is in the shop for it's 3rd one in 30 days-any advice?
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    steviedoresteviedore Member Posts: 1
    experiencing total loss of power. replaced air filter and fuel filters and experience no change. could injectors be clogged or worse?
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    swift725swift725 Member Posts: 2
    :mad: I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. 6.0 Bought it when it had only 18,000 miles on it. Its been in the shop more then its been on the road. When I stop at a light or stop sign or just get out of the truck a few minuets it will sputter and try to quit running then idle fine again. Sometimes it will try to take off by itself at a stop light or stop sign momentaraly. Ford replaced sensors, fuel peddle, and the whole entire wire harness under the hood. Truck still does it. Its still under warrenty but have to pay the deductable every time. With all the records in hand, can this piece of junk be a lemon? thx :sick:
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    fast03fast03 Member Posts: 2
    I have 03 F250 Diesel 6.0 that leaks coolant out of the reservoir cap.
    DO you have any information about this problem.
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    smoothride4mesmoothride4me Member Posts: 13
    Just curious if anyone has tried Bio Diesel? If so, Can you give us feedback?
    Thank you Very much
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    bowkillbowkill Member Posts: 2
    I had an 04 F240 6.0 SRW with same problem, took it to the dealer and they replaced a stuck egr valve each time, third time was the charm, never had problem again.Hope it helps.
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    orchiddjorchiddj Member Posts: 13
    I took your advice goodcrd and took truck to ford. They found 5 bad injectors. The repairs were done and engine runs great again.
    Thanks
    Jim
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    nmsnowmannmsnowman Member Posts: 1
    As an owner of two Ford F350 diesels - sell or trade them in while they are still running, before you have to spend more than the trucks are worth.

    Truck #1 - 2004 F450 6.0 Diesel - Burned up the engine at 150,000 miles when the EGR system dumped coolant and the engine overheated suddenly. Replaced the engine with a re-built engine - we have now lost the injectors in the re-built engine after less than 5,000 miles. Replaced injectors in the original
    engine three times while it was still under warranty. Total repair bill to date $10,000.00 - looking at $4,000.00 more for injectors.

    Truck #1 - 2005 F450 6.0 Diesel - Starting having problems at 110,000 miles. Three trips to the shop so far, including injector replacement and EGR problems - current mileage is 125,000. $9,000 in repair bills to date - for a truck that the local Ford dealership will give me $15,000 trade in value for.

    When pressed, my local Ford fleet salesperson admitted that "the 6.0 engine is the worst mistake Ford has made since the Edsel".

    Bottom line - sell or trade in your 6.0 diesels before the repair bills start and you have to spend more in repairs than the truck is worth. Good luck -
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    bkfarrier350bkfarrier350 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 f 350 im not sure whats wrong. I pull a trailer everyday but its only 10ft enclosed trailer and probley ways 4000lbs the most. i was backing out of a drive way and when i put it in drive the rpms just reved up. I checked the fluid it was between cold and hot i put a little more in and run it threw the gears and it was fine. It done it again the fluid wasn't low. So i put it in first gear and it started going and the i wnet to second the drive and it was fine. I noticed to day the overdrive button was flashing off and i had it in overdrive. So if anyone can help it would be great before i mess it up or it decides to go on me. thanks Bobby
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    craig37craig37 Member Posts: 5
    noticed no difference in my 2000 / 7.3 I was also sceptical but i needed fuel badly one day and thats all citgo had on the road , Its for the newer models, the not so new trucks can run on both, without problems
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    craig37craig37 Member Posts: 5
    Ive heard of the overdrive lite flashing on and off and the result was a bad trans (he ended up replacing it) Never heard of that particular truck reving up before ,
    good luck and hang on to your wallet that trans ain`t cheap
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    bradleyfarmsbradleyfarms Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97 7.3 and on cold mornings (actually now it is whenever the truck cools down) after being plugged in all night, I can't get over 1500 rpm and blowing blacksmoke. There has been a hesitation, with a hiss from under the floor board, in it on cold mornings for a couple of years but this is worse than it has ever been. I would rather not just start throwing parts at it but I am at a loss. Can anyone Help? Thanks, Kelly. ">
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    rcollierrcollier Member Posts: 3
    My truck(95 F250) does similar to the same thing but maybe not quit as bad. If I give it more fuel it will come out of it until it levels out and the dead spot and hiss comes back.Mine runs fine if it is above 25 or 30 degrees. Let me know if you find out anything. Sorry I'm not no help.
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    coreyocoreyo Member Posts: 1
    I have had almost the exact same problem with my 6.0. I was driving down the interstate with no load except an empty trailor. The engine overheated unexpectedly; clear evidence of coolant stains are on the inside of the hood, I still have the 4.5 gallons of oil we drained from the engine. The 14,000.00 inconvience of replacing this engine has upset me but not nearly as much as how ford has dealt with this problem. They claimed negligence on my part but have never addressed my question of how I was negligent. When the original engine was removed they would not even drive 2 mi from the dealership to the shop that pulled it to investigate why the engine failed. I have spoke to ford customer relations over 10 times, wrote letters and badgered the dealer but have not gotted any closer to resolving this than "the engineers decision is final". If Ford had taken responsibility for this and tried to resolve this problem I would be a dedicated advocate and loyal customer. I can forgive an engineering glitch far more easily than the ambivilant way ford has turned there back on me.
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    bradleyfarmsbradleyfarms Member Posts: 7
    I will let you know if I come up with anything. I can't give mine any more fuel, though. At 1500 rpm that's it, it won't go anymore. I have let it warm up longer the last two mornings and have not had any problems. There has to be something wrong though because this is just getting worse.
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