Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A used car will carry a higher interest rate to finance anywhere. The biggest lesson of this economy is not to over-extend on credit. Save and pay cash. Learn how to negotiate. Here is a personal example: In March 2005, I bought a 2002 Chev. Prizm LSI with 25K miles on it for $5750 after 3 days of negotiating (it was originally priced 10295) at a new car dealer. They were happy to sell a car and I was happy to get a reliable car at my price for cash. I drove it exactly 4 years and another 70K miles without a problem and gave it this spring to my daughter who now enjoys a reliable car. There are plenty of such cars. You need to do your research into her needs and preferences, then research negotiation techniques or go with a pro (former car salesman, for example) and learn how to do it. She will have a lifetime of buying cars & needs to learn how its done. Some negotiations fail & those are learning experiences. Don't fall in love with a used piece of equipment on a lot - emotion has no place in this deal.
Once she has that car, she needs to learn to care for it to prevent her current situation from repeating itself. She can take an evening auto maintenance class at a high school or community college. These used to be called "auto maintenance & repairs for women" until they realized that everybody needs to learn to care for their own vehicles. My son is going into his final year of college and drives a well-maintained 15 year old car (Subaru Legacy) with 153K miles on it. Its so reliable that he thinks nothing of driving it on 500-600 mile trips, in fact he leaves in the morning for a trip to NYC.
To start your research, use the April auto issue of Consumer Reports & look at "used vehicles to avoid" (believe them!) and recommended used cars. Every library has Consumer Reports. Go back several years. Research here on Edmunds too - its a great place.
Well, for one, the G35. I've read about many others, but haven't driven them. The zf 6-speed auto found in cars such as the 335i, corvette, and camaro, to name a few, is supposed to be very very good.
As for trying out the other volvos, as the other poster said, just get yerself to a dealer and try them on for size.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
81 Buick Regal - slow but impossible to kill.
84 Buick Regal - same exact car, different dash. Died in accident.
75 Volvo 164E - bulletproof and simple. No smog.
81 Dodge Colt/Mitsubishi Mirage. Indestructible but slow as a slug.
87 Buick LeSabre - transmission finally gave out so tossed it.
90 Volvo 240. Loved this car. Sold eventually as I wanted something better.
67 Mercedes 230S. This was it. Lovely car. Would still have it if the *entire* engine didn't need replacing at $4-6K.
87 4Runner. 380K on the odometer. Can't kill it - repels yuppies.
(plus a bunch of smaller stuff and motorcycles)
I've never bought anything new. Either classic or 5-8 years old at the time. Sure stuff breaks, but nothing bad.
The average person spends half a million dollars in their lifetime if they do nothing but buy new cars all the time. I won't likely spend 1/5th that. :P
What are thr criteria? Also, will she drive manual(anyone can learn - that's not an issue, really). I've spent less maintaining my 5 vehicles with manuals so far than even ONE of my Buicks' automatics. This is the easiest way to keep a car running for cheap. And it's a good skill to learn.(plus a turn-on to guys she might date later on - heh)
***
As for the crash test - you'll notice that the 2nd row was fine since it was past the crumple zone. If the seats have headrests, it's very rare to have major injuries in a rear collision in a sedan.(if RWD, the rear axle is about as good as an engine block in stopping further crumpling) At worst, they get pushed forward into the front seats which are padded. Maybe break their legs at worst. But 6 inches from the back like a lot of 3rd rows are... yeah... way too close. Get a full size van or SUV if you really need to carry 6 or more people.
Yes, the '03-'05 9-3s had some rather troubling reliability problems, but the ancient 9-5 has been pretty solidly reliable after about 2003, and in your price range, you might be able to get into an '06 9-3 if you really wanted to.
Sure, they're not AWD/4WD, but they are FWD and known as decent snow cars. Avoid the V6 on the 9-5 (2004 and up models were 4 cylinder only) and you should be good to go...
Generally, all Saabs depreciate like crazy because on the new end they are discounted like crazy since they are (in my opinion) overpriced on the new end.
You might also consider a Saab 9-2X, which was basically just a rebadged Subaru Impreza. Given that you're looking in Chicagoland (if I recall correctly) you should be able to find plenty of Saabs, although the 9-2X can be rather difficult to find since it was never really popular to begin with.
Another possibility...I see chase and citi offering 0% for 12 months on some credit cards. I'm sure there are other deals like that out there. Also with my existing credit cards I often get "checks" that have promotional rates of 0% or close to it. These deals are never worth it to me, as they have transaction fees of 3-5%, but something like that might work for her, if she gets such offers and has a high enough limit on the card, and is careful to be sure she can pay it off in the allotted time.
In general, what do you think of the mechanical reliability of this model, especially the engine (intake manifold issues) and transmission?
What kind of gas mileage does this car get, especially in the city?
Are the maintenance and repair costs more expensive since this is a discontinued line?
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
If the car has been maintained with coolant changes through those 12 years about every 3 years with fresh DexCool I'd say you're about 50/50 for eventual seeps around the seals under the upper intake manifold. If it had green coolant that goes way down. If coolant was never changed and it's DexCool, I'd expect to change the UIM gasket with an aftermarket replacement--about $150 for part-- and about 5 hours of labor at a local shop who's done them before. If coolant is old style green, I'd feel a lot safer; early DexCool had a different formula and was changed after a couple of years. I am NOT sure your car came with DexCool.
The other factor is the EGR tube up through the UIM heats up and causes deterioration and leakage. I'd expect that on a car driven highway rather than short trips, which is what a car with 40K on it would have.
Change the coolant with a flush if you get it. You can do that in your driveway. I'd put in the longlife Mixes with Any Color by Prestone.
Transmission is the 4T60E which is a durable transmission by GM. Only problems come from abuse or lack of maintenance and a pressure control modulator that occasionally weakens. It can be replaced by dropping the pan like for a fluid and filter change. Unless fluid has been changed by owner, I'd drop the pan and replace filter with a good brand and put in Dexron III by Walmart called Supertech. Do not allow a shop to sell the easy and profitable "flush" they like to use. Seven quarts max needed. These engines and transmission do really well with regular service.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Are you in position to lend her $1000 to put toward the car? this way she can put $2000 down (save the rest for insurance) and pay $100 a month and be done with payments in a year...even if it is a high interest loan.
Forget the odometer. Focus on how the car was used. What was the owner's commute? Mine is 108 miles of perfectly smooth highway, no stop & go, actually no braking, just gentle acceleration and coasting - my cars always have hi miles but are in great shape mechanically. What are the maintenance records? Did the owner keep a log? Receipts?
You may be much better off with a higher mileage late model car.
So when I inspect the car, I should look for signs of aging like cracked hoses, seals, etc.?
Regarding the DexCool coolant problem, I found that there was a class action suit on this problem. The proposed settlement lists 1995-2004 3.8L engine cars (including the Olds 88) as model lines affected.
But does this mean that every 1996 Olds 88s used DexCool coolant?
http://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-shelter/14533-dex-cool-litigation.html
And when I look at the engine, I should check to see if the coolant fluid used is traditional green or orange (DexCool) and signs of corrosion caused by coolant in the radiator and engine area?
Oh, didn't you know? ALL miles of used cars are HIGHWAY miles. ;b
And that was the highway that connects the old lady's house to the church. ;b
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You'll only be able to see some of the rubber components on the car.
Other cars from that period can have engine sludge and tranmission failures which are fatal compared to the repairable UIM servicing.
I see loads of that era H-bodies being driven by people who've bought them at the lower pricing due their miles typically over 100,000 miles and age and having a durable, reliable car with easy cheap repair parts in the event of a problem.
I might offer a lower cash price but I'd buy it, do the services I'd suggested and then drive it an enjoy it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
And in terms of the EGR tube/UIM problem, what symptoms should I be looking for when I inspect the engine?
If it's leaking, sometimes a lot of moisture comes out the exhaust after the motor is started and revved and coolant is sucked into the engine from the pressurized shutdown the last time driven hot pushed coolant out into the motor.
Comparing coolant level either fully hot and fully cool from day to day are one way to suspect UIM leaks. But water pumps, orings, heater and radiator hoses also can seep.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
How much would it usually cost to flush out the DexCool coolant and replace it with something else?
Are there any suggested coolants that are better than DexCool?
That's a pretty general statement (in "final" dollars?) but I still think that, with reasonable assumptions below, your math is way off. A 20k (ignoring inflation) car every 5 years over 50 years of driving would be 200k, not 500k. Sure, some buy much more expensive cars, but others buy cheaper ones and/or keep them longer.
BTW, I am not disputing your thesis that buying used (for most, not all cars) is (much) cheaper in the long run - I mostly follow it.
I don't think so. It costs about 30 cents per mile (conservatively) to run a car so at 14,000 miles per year you're up to $4,200 a year on top of your $5,000 per year just for the price of the car. 50×$9,200 = $450,000 then add a few more frills or expenses and you're easily up to a half million. That's why a lot of people drive their cars into the ground or stick with "preowned."
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
On older cars, I've typically spent 8-13 cents per mile on repairs and maintenance, while when they are new (the first 40-50,000 miles or so) it is more like 2-4 cents per mile for that.
I don't figure it. That's from published data. Depending on the source, 30 cents per mile is on the low side. The IRS has numbers as high as 55 cents per mile and many businesses will reimburse employees at about the same rate for driving expenses related to business trips when using their private cars.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My method to flush is take off the lower radiator hose. Drain. Refill with water completely. Run till warm and fully circulating (lower radiator hose starts to be warm). Drain. Refill and run. Drain. Refill with 6 quarts of new coolant to get a 50/50 mixture (I believe the system holds 13 quarts.
There also is a plastic drain plug low on the radiator that can be opened. I prefer easy access and use the lower radiator hose.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
* a least a little sportiness and style
* reasonable power and torque, at least on the level of my current '99 Passat sedan. (turbo torque with hp pushing 200)
* cargo space, doesn't have to be van or SUV levels, but not much less than what my Passat has now.
* appealing interior that doesn't feel cheap and bland
* the kind of car that can be comfortable for all day rides when traveling
* reasonable reliability. I'm willing to get something less reliable than a Lexus if I like it, but don't want something likely to be in the shop every other week.
* solid gas mileage, preferably lowish emission levels. This is where big tradeoffs occur. I'd love Prius mileage and clean emissions, but it won't do as a car. Same for gas engine cars that get great mileage because they lack power and usually comfort and style. At the same time, I don't want to get a car that gets 23/14 either. Something that gets 27+ on the freeway would be fine for now.
I can pay as much as @30K if it's just right, but I'd rather not. And I'd like to be able to turn it around in a couple years without losing half the value if it's at that price.
My bias is towards a car like an Audi A4, though it's a tad small. But I love them. I drove a two year old BMW 528i recently and was blown away, but it's probably too pricey and I fear the costs down the line if I keep it long term or the continuing depreciation if I sell it in a few years. Plus, it's probably not the ideal car for a family with young kids and a wife who tends to use the car for extraneous, disorganized storage. :-) OTOH, a recent trip to a Nissan dealer disappointed me. Something like an Altima is too bland and boring for me. I drove a mid-90s Mitsubishi Galant for quite awhile after buying it new and liked it, but don't want to repeat that sort of experience. I want more character. The Toyota Versa is too bland for me, too, as are most Toyotas. I like the Jetta TDI as a torquey performer with VW/Audi character and great mileage. But though I've had good luck with my Passat, I fear VW quality issues and it doesn't feel like it would be comfortable for the family as a vacation car. Actually, the Passat or Passat Wagon might be ideal in a lot of ways, but I've been there and done that. The 6 cylinder RAV4 is useful, but devoid of much character. I like the Hyundai Genesis, but am hesitant to buy this early in its lifespan and my wife finds it to be a little big for her.
So it's all tradeoffs, as usual. I'd love to get suggestions here on cars to consider.
I don't get too hung-up on quality issues. My '00 Jetta TDI had less problems over 180k miles than our Honda has in 50k....so I'll take my chances and get what I like. Like you said, there's going to be trade-offs no matter what. I know anytime I've traded Ho-hum and reliable for what I really wanted....I was disappointed. You'll constantly be thinking about what you really wanted and saying "oh well, this one is reliable" or even better it won't be as reliable as you expected and you'll really be kicking yourself. I like to set myself up to be surprised in a good way! I'd go for the 5-series BMW myself as a familiy vehicle.....get one certified and you'll be good to go for a couple years anyway.
The BMW was sensational. At 14 cu. ft. the trunk is a bit small, but it's almost rectangular, doesn't have the nooks and crannies and/or corners that other trunks tend to. So it's a more efficient use of the space than, for example, my bigger Passat trunk. My biggest concern there is simply the cost. I priced 2006 and 2007 models here with the mileage we'd likely have and the continuing depreciation makes me think it's just too much money, especially now in this economy. If it's going to depreciate that much, I might just as well lease a new Audi. I like the BMW more, but the A4 is terrific and at least I could walk away if it doesn't seem worth keeping at the end of the lease. And I feel like that's too much money to eat over a three year period...
Peak Global Lifetime Coolant. Not sure how the chemical composition compares to Dexcool, though.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
Speaking of Nissan, I drove an Infiniti G35. Wow. Probably not a great family car and it gets terrible mileage, but it has some style and it's fun to drive.
1. Minimum 6 passenger (6 is fine.. don't need it larger.. but needs 6)
2. Would like option to AWD or 4WD, I live in Connecticut..
3. Could be a new or used model
4. Minimum of a large 6 cylinder (might tow, do so with my truck now)
5. At least 15 MPG on the back roads.
6. Some good ratings..
Thanks ahead of time!
The Traverse/Enclave/Acadia are the only SUV's we've seen that are even remotely close to the capability of our Odyssey minivan. We've looked closely at the Enclave (Buick version) as a replacement, but it still just isn't as great of a people and thing mover. We don't need to tow with the family hauler so that doesn't really play into our decision. But if I HAD to do light towing the Enclave is about the only SUV we'd consider.
Well, it all depends.
I have no issues with it as a family car thus far. My 3-year-old loves it. We have a 2nd kid in the oven and I have no intentions of getting rid of the car for that reason. My son will fit just fine behind me and the rear-facing seat with the newborn will fit behind the passenger seat without much of a problem. Helps that my wife is short, though.
As for mileage, I get round about 21 mpg with my G35X, which is admittedly pretty bad. However, the RWD automatic will get a couple mpg better, and the stick is even better than that. I used to get 25mpg in mixed driving with my 350z, so I'd expect about the same with a 6-spd G35. I don't consider that terrible in the least.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Recent used models:
Cadillac CTS
Audi A6 (good alternative if A4 is too small for you, though mileage sucks)
Lexus ES
Lexus RX
Acura RDX
BMW X3
Some new models to consider:
Honda Accord
Buick Lacrosse (new this summer)
Chrysler 300 (some ridiculous deals available)
Ford Edge
Ford Fusion
Ford Taurus (new this summer)
VW CC (different from your current Passat)
I might think of more, but this should get you started.
Take your $5000 per year figure, at 12,000 miles per year that is about 42 cents per mile in depreciation. If you add your 30 cents per mile figure to that, the total would be 72 cents per mile.
My wife fits a stroller, beach bag, towells, and a bunch of junk she never seems to clean out of her E30 trunk, which is like half the size of the G. I can't understand why folks think they need so much space these days. Unless you are looking to take it on extended vacation, a sedan for a family of 4 is quite adequate.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1 - A Tacoma pickup. These are reliable as a tank and can carry/haul stuff, which is critical for a young person. Shoot, today, I hauled two dressers and a desk for my father in my truck(and I'm 39 - heh). It's a win-win situation as you get reliability, cargo space, and the thing's just not very fast. It's also SUV height so it's easier to drive and see traffic around you. Seeing OVER other cars is a huge deal.
Anything back to ten years old should be fine.
2 - A Toyota Celica. This is sporty(but not dangerous) and to date it's the least expensive Toyota to fix and maintain made since the original 4Runners.
Both should be manual of course - good skill to learn and a fraction as much to fix the transmission on.
I had a good, long drive in a 2007 G35 yesterday. My initial enchantment is fading. Not that I don't still like it. But the noise and low end jerkiness partly make up for the irresistible power. I think that, as much as I'd love to have one for a week, that over time, I'd prefer a smoother performer, even if it didn't have the horses that the G does. I had a shorter ride in a new G37 the other day and I think that one was a bit smoother.
I'm looking to purchase a car in three weeks (mid Aug).
This will be my very first car, and since I have no experience what so ever buying a car, I am lost.
I am an lawschool student, and I will be driving this car only for the next three years.
Here's a few things that I have to consider:
1. OTD max 25K
2. Only going to drive for three years (lawschool), and planning to sell it.
Thus need a car that I can get a good resale price.
3. I live in upstate NY, cold winter with lots of snow.
4. Prefer a "younger" looking car that is not too common (eg Camry). I prefer hatchbacks and coupes over sedans. Don't mind SUVs either.
5. Right now, I am leaning towards a new VW GTI.
I do not mind New/ Used but I thought that buying a new car and selling it after three years will be better ( in terms of $) than buying a used car. Am I right?
Will buying a new VW GTI and selling it after 3 years be a foolish thing to do?
Should I stick with a new Accord? (known for good resale value)
If the resale value for the two cars are not so different, I do not mind compromising style and personal satisfaction for 2-3thousand dollars.
Considering my situation, what used/new car do you recommend in my price range?
Thank you in advance.
Kyle.