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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mitsubadmitsubad Member Posts: 2
    I know what you are going threw, I was the one who started the recall on the wiring harness. My suv filled with smoke with my son in his car seat, I got him out and disconnected the battery and saved the truck and thats the start of my problems. Mitsubishi had two tecks from japan and two from California fly in to look at my suv. The fix thay came up with was to relocate the wiring harness and replace the carpet. My truck was 3 months old and smelled like smoke. I asked the rep to replace my truck with a new one and they would not. The dealer offered to replace it with a equal truck but they could not find one . I gave up! I asked them to shampoo it one more time, which they did and also put a dent in the passenger side door (trip to body shop).I also had to bring it in for a loose part in the rear suspension (I feel safe now) Now as I speak to you I am in the mitts of another possible re call (I guess I'm good at starting re calls)The rear driverside window can come off the track and open outside the truck. To chek this out, pull lightly on the top of the rear window of your outlander toward the back of the viehical it will come out of the track This can happen all by it's self, If you try to roll it up or down it will scrach the paint on your door and it can stop you from opening the front door by blocking it. The window can roll out the door exposing the window mechanism(not so good) I have had rentals and have been out of my truck for well over two weeks
  • archquarkarchquark Member Posts: 14
    My wife pulled into the garage last night after a short trip into town with our 2007 Outlander XLS 4WD and said the gauges and trip computer/fault indication screen had died on the way home. I checked the fuse indicated in owners manual for guages but found it ok. After replacing fuse I noted that screen had returned but now had diagnostic fault icon (engine) in upper right. I drove vehicle down street but was unable to go over 20 kmh. At this point I noticed ASC icon was indicating it was in off state, attempts to return it to normal did not help. I contacted a GM mechanical technician friend who stated that it sounded like a ground fault or component failure. I have had vehicle towed to local Mitsubishi dealer but wondered if anyone has had a similar problem. Vehicle has had no problems up to now with 30,000 km and getting average of 27.5 km per Imperial gallon.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    I changed the engine oil in my Outlander XLS at 1,000 miles. The Japanese OEM oil filter is fatter than the equivalent oil filter for the American market. Initially I thought to change the original filter for the equivalent American filter when I realized that the Japanese filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles for a car without severe driving. We American have been told to change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. The American filter that looks sub-standard has been made for these frequent oil changes.

    I wouldn’t have any problem in changing the filter every time that I change the oil, however the oil filter is in an awful location and it is not easy to remove. The worst thing is the spilling of oil from the filter onto the starter motor which is very close to the filter location. Frequent and careless changes of the oil filter will eventually shorten the life of the starter motor. Oil spilled from the filter cannot be avoided in many situations. My advice in this situation could be to keep the OEM Japanese filter as long as possible (15,000 miles or 20,000 miles) and after then use the American sub-standard filter every 7,500 miles with each change of oil with special care about spilling oil on the starter motor. I use synthetic motor oil 5W-20 and 7,500 or 8,500 miles is just fine for a routine change of oil for my Outlander.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    Has anyone replaced thecabin filter? I understand its under the glove compartment.

    Difficult?
  • mrmyklmrmykl Member Posts: 1
    I'm having this same problem...my driver side window is not rolling up, motor is making noise as if it's working. Pulled the door trim and window appears to be in proper position...anyone else have this problem or having had this problem had it fixed??? thanks! m schaerer
  • wwomackwwomack Member Posts: 2
    yes It is the regulator and I replaced it. Cost $85 and one hour labor.
    3 little screws hold the door panel then you can gently pull the panel to unsnap. Disconnect electrical. remove whether shield. and found that the cable had frayed. unbolted regulator and removed it.

    Wish you well God Bless Scott
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    You must have found it by now...It's right where you were describing....Make sure that you put a NEW drain plug crush washer on the drain plug before tightening and re-filling with oil. They are only good for one time.
    ...They cost $2 each at Mitsu parts...
  • mitsubadmitsubad Member Posts: 2
    If any Mitsubishi Outlander 2007 and newer owners are having problems with the rear passenger windows coming out of the track and or opening out of the window opening to the exterior of the vehicle please report this to the ministry of transportation at 1 800 333 2510 and ask to talk to a default investigator. This problem as of this note has not been properly resolved by Mitsubishi Canada and the repair that they have sent out to the dealers, in my mind is a bandage and dose not resolve the issue. I do not want to wait until somebody gets hurt! My window has opened out of my suv two times now and has resulted in paint and gasket damage. My kids sit in the back and they could get hurt. Please report this so a permanent repair is made.
  • wheel_dawgwheel_dawg Member Posts: 15
    Has anyone installed the parts of the protection package themselves? I would like to just get the rear bumper cover and the mud guards, but I wasn't sure if the mud guard installation was clean (just using existing screws in the wheel well, etc.)

    Thanks.
  • ruski_is_meruski_is_me Member Posts: 8
    also how does the bumper scuff plate get attached?
  • ruski_is_meruski_is_me Member Posts: 8
    I had a stain that I tried to clean and now the area doesn't have that nice velvety texture. :(
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    WHEEL DOG..I put the mud flaps on myself and it was easy. I didn't bother with the "sticky-stuff" that was mentioned in the directions. Just screwed them on and they are OK. Got approx 15K of hot FL summers and NC mtn driving in all kinds of terrain.
    They haven't come off yet. :)
  • wheel_dawgwheel_dawg Member Posts: 15
    Hi Olliexls2007. Thanks for the information about the mudguards. Good to know. :)
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    Oil filter change facts

    I have changed the oil filter on my Outlander twice. The vehicle has 24K miles. The Japanese filter was changed at 15K miles and I used the oil filter sold by American dealers at 22K miles. The second time I changed the oil filter it appeared to me that in order to have the filter out I had to turn the filter clockwise. This happens because it appeared that if I was turning the filter anti-clockwise I was tightening it more. Is this the way how the oil filter in a Mitsubishi Outlander has to be operated or is it just a mental mix up on my side. The norm is that turning clockwise tightens and anti-clockwise loosens. Could someone with oil filter experience taken me out from this confusion? I could do it the hard way, i.e. lifting the car and manipulate the filter by myself.
  • wheel_dawgwheel_dawg Member Posts: 15
    I haven't changed the filter on my Outlander yet but I have done oil changes on plenty of other vehicles and I've never heard of any oil filter having left-handed threads (i.e., turn clockwise to loosen). As you face the end of the filter (i.e., the closed end of the filter is nearest to you), you should turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it, and clockwise to tighten it.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    I have also changed my oil filter twice in my own driveway.(like to use synthetic as the oil change places mark it up too much) It's a normal thread (clockwise to tighten) but perhaps you didn't have a good view and were viewing it backwards at the time. I used a few 2X10 boards under the front tires to get just a few more inches clearance and remove the lower valence with the pop out plastic things (and maybe 4 bolts) to clearly see the filter (and the metal drainspout deflector.) Access is pretty good when done this way, but not quite as simple as my wife's '06 Malibu ( one of the easiset I've ever had with the filter remaining upright and straight access to the filter and drainplug within an arm's length reaching under the car).
  • Gabo24Gabo24 Member Posts: 1
    Hello.. does anyone knows where can i buy (online) in the US a Mitsubishi Outlander's 07-09 Driver's Airbag please? Any link to that webpage? I've been searching all over the web and havent been able to find one.. :confuse:
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    mud flaps...37,000 miles now & they're still hanging on tight :-) :)
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    Any idea of the cost to replace?
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    It looks like a bear to get at. Doesn't the V6 need valve adjustments too?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    My dealer wants $570.00. I think that is outragous.
  • chelentanochelentano Member Posts: 634
    Hi, I need to replace damaged driver side mirror, but I can't figure out how to remove the inner door panel. I inspected the panel but I can't find any screws on it. Does anybody know where the screws are and any other tricks to remove the panel?

    Thanks.
  • caliboy1caliboy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I'm planning on buying a 2007 Outlander that was originally purchased outside of California. The label under the hood states it only meets federal emissions standards.

    1) Since this is a relatively new car, do you think it can pass California standards? If not, is it difficult to convert the car to the stricter standards?
    2) I'm curious why Mitsubishi created two different cars (Cali ones having fewer hp's). Is the non-cali car a big polluter?

    Thanks.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    I know my 2007 LS Outlander V6 is rated PZEV and bought in NY. I would call Mistusbishi USA HQ for clarification on what is legal in CA.

    Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc.
    PO Box 6014
    Cypress, CA 90630-0014 1-888-MITSU2009
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    I have a 2007 Outtie...I'm due for a spark plug change. I usually do this maint. myself....
    Has any member done a spark plug replacement on their own?
    Did you have any problems?
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    What's the interval for plugs? Aren't most cars 100K now? I've done nothing but oil changes, I'm changing the air filter soon.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    My maint. manual says that the plugs should be changed every 30,000 miles. I at least want to pull some plugs out and give them an inspection. Maybe even re-gap them...

    The car is running OK and I get great gas mileage but I always like to change plugs every 30K.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    Checking in my manual for a 2007 LS (3.0 V6 it says that standard plugs are good for 30K miles and iridium plugs are good for 105 K miles. (there is a pic that shows what the markings look like for an iridium plug)

    Taking off the plastic cover I see each plug has its own coil that sits on top and the plugs are in a deep well. The rear plugs don't look like they are easy to get to ( I can't see them from the top of the engine). Someday soon I'll get ambitious enough to remove a plug to see if they are indeed iridium or not (sure hope so) ;-) But I'm still under 20K miles so I'm not motivated to go further yet.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    I noticed a slight oil drip on the pavement (turned out to be coming from the oil drain plug) and when I went to check the oil level I remembered that this dipstick strikes me as strange. The is no picture in the manual or markings on the stick, but there are a few holes followed by a few twists. I assume from other car dipsticks I've had that you want both holes covered in oil, but mine seems to be at the level above the first full twist above the holes. (and boy one needs to clean the stick and let it set for a bit to get an accurate reading). I'm used to some cross hatching on the stick (sometime with holes too) with "add" clearly written on it..

    Any comments?

    BTW:I also found the cause of an annoying rattle while under the car with it running. There was a small heat shield around the pipe before the catalyst about to fall off and I easily broke the last fragment of metal holding it with a bend of my hand (now off and quiet) Doesn't bode well for the exhaust: The car isn't 2 yrs old or 20K yet and that shield is toast!
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    If you expect to do some work on your car I recommend obtaining the 2007 Outlander CD. You may get it free from your dealer. It shouldn’t be oil drip under the car if you would use the proper oil plug torque and a new gasket every time you change the engine oil. Yes it is not easy to have a convinced reading from the oil stick. The best it can be done is to be satisfied when the oil mark is between both holes.

    If the heat shield as you said has been detached you ought to buy a new one and install it yourself. The shield is there for a purpose not just as an ornament.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I wouldn't worry too much about the heat shield if it's under the exhaust. Mainly there if you park in weeds or deep grass. I had the oil changed by the dealer and had to take it back twice because it was leaking at the plug. I think they finally replaced the plug.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • outlandersdoutlandersd Member Posts: 5
    comem47: Was the heat shield rattling all the time?
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    Hi, I just got back from an extended Labor Day weekend. Thanks for all the replies.

    The piece of heat shield on the pipe didn't look like it did much. Not like a shield on the catalytic converter. The shield didn't have much of an air gap to the pipe (it was spot welded to the pipe, not separated from it like most other heat shields) ad there is plenty shielding the car from heat on the floorboard. The shield seemed to resonate at low rpm and was most noticeable just above engine idle (like creeping in stop and go traffic and then it would go away once above that rpm. I was curious if the bumper to bumper covers it. If so, I might have them do something, but otherwise
    as I said, it doesn't do much.
  • moosenoosemoosenoose Member Posts: 1
    I notice a slight leak behind the rear wheel ( on the driver's side) below the trunk , looks like washer fluid for the rear windscreen. Can anyone tell me how I can access this area to fix it.

    Thank you
  • jgguitaristjgguitarist Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 09 outlander almost two months ago now and have had some trouble when windy. This has nothing to do with noise, it has to do with the handling. I feel like my car's getting thrown around the road when I'm traveling higher than 60mph. Even in semi normal conditions it gets shifty when passing semis and such. Today driving into work it was quite windy and I had to hold my car from moving side to side within my lane. I am wondering if anyone else has had similiar problems or any suggestions as to what may be the problem. Thanks.

    PS-My initial thought was that it was related to tire pressure but everything in that department is under control.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Did you have a tall vehicle or SUV before this? I'm wondering if it's just the typical way a taller vehicle will react to crosswinds. My '07 Outlander seems pretty good in this regard. Definitely better than the Mercury minivan it replaced.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • jgguitaristjgguitarist Member Posts: 2
    Actually I drove a Ford explorer before this, so I guess you could say I am used to driving a larger SUV (although the Oulander is smaller than many). Thanks for the reply though. I am honestly considering taking it in to be looked at for alignment or something.
  • stlmattstlmatt Member Posts: 2
    I made the bone-headed move of the century, and put 5 gallons of diesel fuel from a gas container into my vehicle thinking that it was unleaded,. My gas gauge was showing empty. I drove it about 50 yards when it started making horrible noises and smoking, then the engine stalled. I am in the process of draining the tank by removing the fuel line from the back of motor. I tried siphoning the fuel but did not have much luck and a bad experience trying that years ago. I ran a garden hose to the fuel line to the empty can and by turning the key to the on position letting the fuel pump drain the diesel. It is taking quite a while to do this because the fuel is coming out at a slow rate but never the less it is draining. I have some high-octane unleaded to put in after this process. Hopefully after draining the diesel and putting the proper fuel in the tank it will run through and be fine. My question is, did I do any serious long -term damage to my engine? Please help!!!!!!!
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    Sorry to hear of your problem. With such short engine running time I doubt you did any serious damage. I'm really surprised you didn't smell the diesel while pouring (maybe I have a sensitive nose, but the smell is unmistakable and my garage currently is airing out from a slight leak of a rusted kerosene heater tank). As for having a bad experience siphoning fuel, you should own a siphon squeeze bulb to start the flow . They are cheap and I regularly have moved gas out of snowmobile and lawnmower tanks with it. You probably should remove the hose at the exit of the tank if it is accessible, to get the last of the diesel fuel out once the level is really low.(I can't say for sure if the fuel will mix well enough with gas or tend to layer to the bottom of the tank by settling out overnight).
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    This reminds me of a female friend =) But anyway, I think you did the right thing. Empty the tank of the diesel, take out as much as you can. Then fill up with gasoline. I don't know if an octane booster additive is going to help but I think it's worth to try. Gasoline and diesel are byproducts of crude oil, they should mix well. I hope your engine did not flag a code. Have you seen any warning light yet?
  • stlmattstlmatt Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for taking the time to reply to my thread. I haven't seen a warning light yet. It has been a long process trying to drain the tank. The diesel is draining very slow. I am able to run the car for 5-10 minutes at a time before battery dies and then have to put it on charger for 30 min before trying again. Managed to get about 2 gallons out so far. I gave up for the night and will get the rest out tomorrow.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    I think I would get a proper siphon rather than putting your fuel pump on constant duty. (if you can't drive have a friend pick one up for you). It will drain much faster
    (you would have been long done)and your pump and battery will appreciate a breather.
  • cbdrumscbdrums Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I have a 2003 Outlander and the heat/cooling switch on the dashboard has become partially frozen. It feels like the vent behind the panel is partially stuck- almost like it needs lubrication.

    Does anyone have an idea how to check/fix this?

    Thanks,
    Cold in Austin Texas
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I would guess it's jammed up behind the dash. Probably have to disassemble that part of the dash and free it up.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • cbdrumscbdrums Member Posts: 2
    Further adventures of the Austin, TX. Outlander...

    The cooling/heating vent on my outlander is stuck so that it won't switch to "heat".
    I've taken off the actual control knob to make certain it hasn't worn down and it's ok.

    I'm afraid that I'll have to take of some form of panel to get the vent lubricated or unstuck...and- I have no idea how to do that-any sources you can recommend?

    Thanks
  • rgortonrgorton Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem...
    Did you have any luck, it's getting pretty cold here in New England.

    Thanks
  • smabinasmabina Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem as well for about 1.5 years. The dial is stuck right at the top between the hot/cold spot while the engine is running. However, I can easily change the dial over if the engine is off. This may seem like a "duh" thing, but I actually didn't try it w/o the engine on until last fall. Surprisingly this also made my A/C light come back on; it hadn't worked all summer. Maybe this might work for you.
  • cigarprocigarpro Member Posts: 7
    Hi, I have a new 2010 Outlander V6. The engine light came on and it felt like I was running on 5 cylinders. Dealer found a random misfire and reset the code. 15 mile later same thing. They switched coils and it now looks like a bad injector. Anyone seen the problem? The car have 2600km, or 1600 miles, just a month old? Any suggestions.

    Thanks
    Cigarpro
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    I do also have a 2010 Outlander GT. Your car is under warranty and you ought to use it all the way until your car is put all right. After one or twice the dealer failed to put your car right you should ask for a new vehicle or have your money back. Your problem is a very specialized situation and may need to reset the ECU (run again all the software that control your vehicle) from scratch. Take note of the work been carried by the dealer if the problem persist then I think you have all the right to request your money back or a new vehicle
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I think they'd replace the engine before replacing the entire vehicle.

    The problem sounds repairable so I would continue with the dealer and let them resolve it. If they cannot fix it to your satisfaction or if it is taking too many visits, escalate to the regional manager or take it to another dealer.

    My '10 GT is now about 6 weeks old and has 1200 miles. 0 problems so far. I just had the towing kit & remote start installed the other day.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
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