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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair



  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    My first change will be at 7500 miles....

    If it's good enough for Mitsu Corp.....It's good enough for me....

    100,000 mile warranty....
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    Me, I just went with the schedule in the manual, that is 3000mi to the first oil change in the severe schedule.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The oil wars are always entertaining. :) Here's a recent blog by Karl:

    Oil's Slippery Slope: My Advice -- Stop Wasting It!
  • ken4nyken4ny Member Posts: 40
    Steve, Rcpax and Solowalker, thank you for the advices and info. I'm going with the manual's recommendation - 7500 miles. I was babying my Outie and now I can take advantage of the power and handling. :shades:
  • growwisegrowwise Member Posts: 296
    Can someone tell me where the oil drain bolt is on 07 outie? and what socket will fit?

    I saw a black pan and black drain bolt but not sure if its the right one as its sitting front right.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    I picked up my Outlander on Friday 23 March and drove 71 miles. Parked it in garage and went on a trip Saturday March 24. Returned April 2 and tried to start the car. Dead Battery. So I started charging the battery. Got it started and the yellow check engine service light was on and a light indicated airbags were not on. Called the Dealer (service)and and he said that the battery needs a full charge for the lights to come off. The service also said that the car needs to be started frequently and this will happen when left without a start. What do you think?
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    Sometimes the cars sit in the showroom and people use the Nav and stereo to the point where it kills the battery. If yours was that low it could need a full charge or the battery could have been damaged.

    Either way, your battery shouldn't die on a new vehicle. If it doesn't hold a charge after you charge it up, then the dealer has to make it right.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    I took it to the dealer. I had charged the battery for 4 hours. The check service light was still on. The battery checked out as OK. But the car was in "limp home" mode. They reset it. The computer diagnostics said all other things were ok. I am wondering if I left the car ignition in accessory position. It would account for draining the battery. One of the drawbacks of the fast key. With an older type ignition you can't get the key out in accessory position.

    Oui Ve!
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    The car checked out fine, no codes.

    Beware - there is a recall on 2005 Outlanders - on a cooling fan. Dealer replaced it.
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    You should still get a visual and audio warning then in that case.I wouldn't say its a drawback of keyless ignition because it has a warning mechanism. I guess technology couldn't help you if you're careless.
  • growwisegrowwise Member Posts: 296
    It once happened to me. I knew something was not right but thats only because I was in my garage. I figured it out later...

    Technology is there to help people but there needs to be some backup plan like cutting out automatically after an interval to preserve battery life. I can imagine if you parked in a noisy area, then the audio chime may not work.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    I agree! It was carelessness/or ignorance on my part. Tough lesson.
  • rcpaxrcpax Member Posts: 580
    Well I thought there should be a cut-off mechanism for the battery in that scenario. I know for a fact that if you've left the lights on after leaving the car, it gets shut-off after a few minutes, just don't know if the same applies if you've left the ignition at ACC position. The manual only says not to leave the ignition switch to "ON" for a long period of time with the engine off, that it could actually drain the battery down.

    In this scenario, IMO, there is no way for the vehicle's computer to tell if (1) you wanted the car on ACC (e.g. waiting for wife at parking lot listening to radio), or (2) you have left it on that position by accident. If I'm in scenario (1), I certainly do not want the computer to cut off the power while I'm listening to the radio. If it's scenario (2) then it would have been desirable for the car's computer to shut off the power. I guess they have not made the Outlander that intelligent yet.
  • pricebropricebro Member Posts: 9
    Hi all,

    This is a cool forum that I get tons of info about '07 Outlander. Thanks to all of the inputs, I almost made up my mind to go get it after I spent 2 days reading most of the posts about this model.

    The only thing I am not too sure about is Mitsubishi's service in Canada. My friend who bought a Lancer in 2003 told me that he was really pissed up by Mitsu's service. I myself sent 2 emails to Mitsubishi Canada inquiring about the 2007 Outlander info, but never got any feedback, not even an electronically generated "response email". :mad:

    I am a little concerned. Warranty is longer but it doesn't mean good. I also expect better service. Anyone can talk about the service you experience from Mitsu's service centre? :)

  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    So far I could only speak about sales experience, which in my case was good. No personal experience about service, but I plan to go to the same dealership bought the car from, which received good reviews from some local Mitsu owners on another forum. I'm in GTA and there are few dealerships here to chose from.
  • pricebropricebro Member Posts: 9
    Thanks dodo2, I live in Ottawa. Looks outlander is very rare to be seen here. At least in the past month, I have seen none. Canadian market follows US. If the sales bump up there, we will see more here for sure.

    We only have 2 dealers here plus 1 in Quebec side. The one I went to test drive is a brand new one but the owner owns a few more dealerships of other brand names in the city. They can offer about $1800 discount. But their PDI (excluded from the delivery charge which is listed online) & admin fee add up to C$1000 which I think is unreasonable. Did you get any discount in Toronto?

    I have a friend who works in Mitsu Japan, and highly recommended this SUV to me. (That`s the reason I started my research). He told me that this SUV had the ability to compete head-to-head with RAV4 in Japan. From last yearMitsu started new aggressive strategy and significant changes to get their share in NA market. They pay a lot of attention to the feedback and eager to make changes. So I hope this helps raise the level of their service and quality.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    Does anyone know where the micron air purifier is located?
    I have scoured the manual with no luck. I wa stold that it was in the passenger side interior.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    I think it's behind the lower passenger side glove box. There are some tabs that allow the glove box to swing down for access.
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    I got mine for about $800 over the invoice price, all dealer charges in. It also included the labor for accessories installation. Not a super-deal, but decent for the circumstances.
    Give it few more months and real deals could be had. Personally, I couldn't wait longer.
  • outlanderlsgeooutlanderlsgeo Member Posts: 21
    what's the recommended fuel for the LS 2WD? is there something wrong with using a high grade fuel?
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    US models are designed to use regular gas, you get no benefit from using higher octane.
  • outlanderlsgeooutlanderlsgeo Member Posts: 21
    oh, is that right? thanks!
  • archquarkarchquark Member Posts: 14
    Pricebro, it appears that the Admin Fee and PDI are excessive to say the least. My wife just signed deal with Peterborough mitsubishi today and they did not charge administration fee and PDI was only $199.00
  • pricebropricebro Member Posts: 9
    Thanks Archquark, I think the dealer was playing the tricks.

    But shouldn't PDI be included in the destination delivery fee?

    According to following article, it seems that it`s kind of expense from tuning up and maintaining your car by dealer.
    http://www.canada.com/ottawacitizen/columnists/story.html?id=e99f95cc-323b-4753-- 9c61-b6f50db4f945&p=1

    But to me, it just seems to be another nominal expense to charge on consumer to increase their profit.

    So when people here said "paid $xxx above invoice", did they mean they paid MSRP price + Destination Delivery Fee + applicable taxes, then + $xxx on top?

    I plan to show hand next month, and I am trying to see if I can benefit from the EPP program from my friend. But maybe I am not eligible for that program. :confuse:

  • archquarkarchquark Member Posts: 14
    My wife has her own business.She keeps Vehicle Purchase Agreements to prove to Revenue Canada what she paid for the vehicle so there is no problem with depreciation on her income tax. She has her form for her trade-in , a 2004 Saturn Ion, and it appears that the Vehicle Purchase Agreement form is identical. Possibly the government requires all new vehicle purchases to use same form. However Belleville Saturn charged her $225.00 in 2004 for administration fee and there was no PDI fee. They also added a vehicle theft( etched windows,sticker etc.)package under this section (Total Sale Price )was $199.00. So it appears that it is dealer's choice what to charge and whether you get them to drop it.The charges in this section (Total Sale Price) are freight,federal air conditioning tax,tax for fuel consumption and administration fee with another blank line which in which Mitsubishi put PDI and Saturn put the theft package. I only started reading this discussion three days ago so do not have any idea what this "invoice price" refers to. Could it be what manufacturer charges dealer for car? What is this EPP program you are referring to?
  • dodo2dodo2 Member Posts: 496
    The "invoice" price is the reference price the dealer pays for the car. I say the "reference" price because what the dealer pays in reality may be different. For example, if there is a current manufacturer to dealer incentive, the dealer may pay less. In the US, the invoice price is publicly available while in Canada you have to pay for it. You could go to CarCostCanada.com, pay the membership fee (about $50-$60) and obtain a "Wholesale Report" for the car you want (you have up to 8 reports included).
    Obviously, the invoice price is thousands of dollars less than the MSRP.
    When one says "paid $xxx above invoice" it means he/she paid:
    Invoice+$XXX (dealer profit)+Freight+ Registration+Taxes.
    Some people, myself included, include in the $XXX all the dealer fees, which are considered dealer profit, like Admin,PDI - in some cases this is together with Freight, but not in Mitsubishi's case, labor for accessories installation. etc.
  • pricebropricebro Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for explaining dodo2.

    I searched in this forum, looks it is about $2500 less than MSRP.

    no5, "Mitsubishi Outlander: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #302, 15 Feb 2007 6:24 pm

    archquark, thanks for sharing, EPP means Employee Purchase Program.
  • pippin518pippin518 Member Posts: 12
    I've had my 07 Outlander since December, I'm at about 13k...haven't had any issues except having the front bearing knock taken care of. This morning at the first light I was stopped at it stalled after about a minute of waiting...the battery and service engine soon light came on. I turned it off and it fired up just fine...no warnings. Should I be concerned? Anyone else have issues? The 15k inspection is right around the corner.
  • spaceman210spaceman210 Member Posts: 50
    Suggest you tell the mechanic and see if he can capture the trouble code; it may have been retained in memory.
  • lucymolucymo Member Posts: 13
    check page 11 of this post. I had an '05 die on the middle of the road. There were no codes, car has been driving fine since then.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Member Posts: 1,019
    Anybody with a 2007 Outlander with the Rockford/Fosgate system (no nav.) Is the speed control volume very subtle? I thought mine wasn't working, I made sure it was switched on, but today I thought I heard the volume getting louder and quieter according to speed. I guess I'm used to the system like in my dad's Grand Prix where it's a huge difference in volume. I hate to take it to the dealer if it's working as I have no other issues yet. Just hit 1000 miles!
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • lmchenlmchen Member Posts: 9
    I basically think that article is not helpful. It only said 3000 is too conservative. *But* don't have any gut to suggest on the alternative. (Is 5000 better or 7500 is too long?)
    I actually think Mitsu put up better information in the following link.

    That split the Regular (every 7500) and Severe (every 3000)

    "Quote from the above link"
    Which Schedule Should You Follow?
    Select the schedule for Severe Maintenance if most of your driving is done under one or more of the following conditions:
    • 50% of driving is done in heavy city traffic during hot weather.
    • Extensive idling and/or low speed operations (stop-and-go traffic).
    • Extended use of brakes while driving (stop-and-go traffic).
    • Repeated short trips with engine not fully warmed up, especially in freezing temperatures.
    • Dusty, rough, muddy, sandy, or salt-spread roads.
    • Vehicle is used for towing.

    I choose to change on 5000-6000 is because our usage is somehow in between plus I sometime get busy. If I forget or get busy, I won't slip up to 7500 miles
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'd be curious to see Mitsu's recommendations for oil changes over the pond. 12,000 miles sounds like a typical interval in Europe. Renault's new sedan recommends 18,000 mile intervals with the diesel (I note this because I've seen many people claim that diesels require more frequent intervals than gassers). (link). Prius's go 10k in GB (link). A Carrera 997 goes 18k (probably running synthetic but it doesn't say). link.

    I think we've been sold a 3k bill of goods in NA.
  • gsnoddygsnoddy Member Posts: 14
    That's essntially the question. Want to drain the rear differential on my 03 AWD Outlander, and see a big round plug on the bottem of the diff. but don't see anywhere to oput the new fluid after draining.

    Any ideas?
  • growwisegrowwise Member Posts: 296
    Please be careful in throwing these numbers around. There are a lot of variables in judging an OCI (oil change interval). Fuel dilution which is becoming common in modern cars just kills the oils. Those high OCI numbers in Europe come with different viscosities. Not the thin 20wt recommended here due to CAFE. Also, oils used in Europe by manufacturers are different too. They contain high Alkyl Naphthalene, Poly Alpha Olephins (PAO), Poly Oly Esters and Group V and VI esters which have polar molecules bonding to metal. More importantly, they dont have API SM/ILSAC GF4 energy conserving requirements causing them to go with oils with wide spread such as 0w-40 or 5w-40 or even 5w50. These oils have low pourpoints yet have thicker film to protect against contaminants should the oil filtration not be upto par (higher silicon due to dirt ingestion causing abrasive wear). It is important to keep air and oil filtration at top notch for oil to do its job. Also, ZDDP is higher those oils as well. Note that aryl ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous) are great for your engine but are being reduced in NA (due to newly mandated longevity of catalytic converters). Cat converters have precious metals such as palladium, rhodium and platinum which get used up by phosphorus. Note that new regulation requires cat converters to last for 150k. These parameters are all different than europe. Why do you think they run those diesels which are not allowed stateside? Do not run long intervals >5k without getting UOA (check blackstone labs for what the wear metals stand for). I have seen havoline 5w20 UOA at 5k miles and it has high iron, aluminium, copper and lead. These are all wear metals. Each metal has a meaning. For instance lead indicates bearing wear. There are exceptions such as camlobe wear can also indicate iron even though commonly its cylinder walls. Also, while thin oils are good for start up wear, at prolonged heat, low CentiStokes at 100C could be a deterrent. Also, Noack volatility is important as well. This determines how much of the oil will evaporate. Joe Blow who never checks his el cheapo oil will start running low on oil causing varnish/sludge. Even guys who check oil level doesnt know if there is crankcase condensation due to short trips causing oil not to reach operating temps to burn off water. This depletes TBN (total base number) of oil as oil has to fight acid formation (TAN). Note that water and oil dont mix. Similarly fuel and oil dont mix either..Nuff said...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I run my oil the interval recommended in my owner's manual for normal service.

    In my case that's 7,500 miles for my Nissan and 5,000 for my Subaru, although I do tend to stretch the intervals a bit.

    And if I really thought there was an issue with running oil that "long" in a passenger car, I'd spring for an analysis like the fleet operators do, instead of just throwing numbers around or wondering if the molecular tails in my crankcase all broke at 3,000 miles.

    You may be interested in Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 too, btw.
  • growwisegrowwise Member Posts: 296
    I am not interested in it. I have better sources than these silly articles and the blind leading the blind types. Just do yourself a favor and get a UOA done at either blackstone labs or better yet with terry dyson at www.dysonanalysis.com with oil sample at 7.5k miles and report to us as to how well the oil fared. Then I would believe it. Until then you do not have solid evidence... OCI varies for many people and their driving conditions/driving style. What works for one doesnt necessarily work for other. Especially when the type of oil and its properties are not being discussed...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    One of my cars is ten years old and low miles and the other is 9 years old and 119k. Together they both are worth maybe $7,000. They certainly aren't worth taking the time and expense to dump oil out before the recommended interval or spend the $20 on an analysis.

    I trust the manufacturer and always drive them forever - we're on our 4th car since 1982 and not being a hobby oil changer has worked fine for me.

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Cat converters have precious metals such as palladium, rhodium and platinum which get used up by phosphorus.

    That's not very likely for platinum although rhodium will react with fused alkalis and palladium can dissolve in oxydizing acids. Of course, you know those reactions rates depend on concentration and temperature.

    On the other hand, it's hard to argue against real world experience.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Member Posts: 1,019
    Anyone know where the oil filter is located on a 2007 Outlander?

    I put it up on the ramps and looked around but can't find it anywhere.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    On the V6 it is on the front right corner of the engine.
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    Was reading the previous posts and am trying to determine which were the manufacture 'build' month(s) that had the front bearing problem, and when exactly did it get corrected in production? If unsure of dates, does anyone have a VIN range or anything? Thank you.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Member Posts: 1,019
    I'm not sure but I thought it was maybe March? Not all of them had the problem, either. Mine was built in January, and I haven't heard the knocking noise.

    Biscuit, do you mean the front of the engine, which would be the passenger fender, or front of the vehicle when you face it? Can you see it from underneath, or is there a flap or panel covering the oil filter. Thanks.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Member Posts: 194
    Drivers side on the front of the engine. Look from under the car. It's a small filter to start with and there is a drip-diverting funnel that hides it.
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    I see it now. Hidden behind the black valence panel and the drip funnel you mentioned. Looks like a lot of fasteners to remove the valence, so I might try bending it back and holding it out of the way with a bungee cord each time to get to the filter.

    Thanks for the info (not too bad to get to after all!!!)
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    First oil change will be coming up soon. I see the filter location and the drip shield [funnel]. Should you remove the valence piece (alot of plastic snap fasteners to be taking in and out), or as Biscuit said, do you perhaps just bend the piece a little and dont take it all off? Does the drip shield really work on this? I've had other trucks/cars where it was not too helpful.
    Are there any experienced oil changers out there on this model that can comment? Maybe prevent me from having one messy change. Thanks!
  • lmchenlmchen Member Posts: 9
    I have done it twice now. (for some reason it always hard to get out.)
    go back to post 98
    lmchen, "Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair" #98, 22 Mar 2007 1:09 am
    That should help you. (I just bent the rubber a little bit to get in.)

    That's said, I have to mention that I am on my own schedule.
    Mitsu have outlander/other care on every other oil changes to replace the Filter. You need to oil change between 3000-7500 depending on the car usage (check Mitsu website - owner links.) -- That translate to 15000 miles to change the oil filter.

    I changes the oils and oil filter as a pair out of a habbit on every 5000 to 6000 (Since I am down there, why do a half job?)
    I also set my Navi reminder to 6000 just in case I am too busy around the time.

    Don't overfill, less than 4 Qts and the stick is hard to read.
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    I also will be on my own schedule, most likely doing 5K change intervals (which is between severe and normal) and always a new filter each time. I've read the manual section twice and cant seem to find how does the driver information display work regarding the Maint Reminder? It appears to be setup for 7500K intervals? Is there a way to reset it yourself after you perform maintenance(as I have done on other cars/trucks)? Or do you have to just ignore the automatic 7500K reminder if your on your own schedule? I feel silly asking but cant seem to find that in the book (of course reading in late evening might not be helping). :blush: Thanks.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Member Posts: 1,019
    Yeah I was wondering about that maintenence schedule myself. It just shows a wrench and says "OFF" I just had my first oil and filter at 3K. Probably go every 4K or so from now on since it sees a lot of short trips and below freezing weather.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • ilikemyoutieilikemyoutie Member Posts: 3
    This is really annoying me. Since about the 5000km mark, my driver's seat (heated leather, XLS model) creaks and groans whenever I start, stop, turn, or accelerate. I had my dealer look into this during my last oil change (12000km), and they did fix it. The seat was silent for about 1500km, but now continues to make noise. I noticed a smell of lubricant? when I picked up the car after the oil change, which makes me think they closed their eyes and sprayed the underside of the seat, hoping this would do the trick. No, the trick is still there boys. I don't want to wish ill will on anyone here in the forum, but PLEASE someone tell me that they are also experiencing the same innexcusable problem from their brand new Outlander? I have owned used vehicles my entire life, and not ONE ever had creaking seats. Thanks in advance everybody! :confuse:
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