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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for taking the time to reply to my thread. I haven't seen a warning light yet. It has been a long process trying to drain the tank. The diesel is draining very slow. I am able to run the car for 5-10 minutes at a time before battery dies and then have to put it on charger for 30 min before trying again. Managed to get about 2 gallons out so far. I gave up for the night and will get the rest out tomorrow.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    I think I would get a proper siphon rather than putting your fuel pump on constant duty. (if you can't drive have a friend pick one up for you). It will drain much faster
    (you would have been long done)and your pump and battery will appreciate a breather.
  • Hi All,

    I have a 2003 Outlander and the heat/cooling switch on the dashboard has become partially frozen. It feels like the vent behind the panel is partially stuck- almost like it needs lubrication.

    Does anyone have an idea how to check/fix this?

    Cold in Austin Texas
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 991
    I would guess it's jammed up behind the dash. Probably have to disassemble that part of the dash and free it up.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • Further adventures of the Austin, TX. Outlander...

    The cooling/heating vent on my outlander is stuck so that it won't switch to "heat".
    I've taken off the actual control knob to make certain it hasn't worn down and it's ok.

    I'm afraid that I'll have to take of some form of panel to get the vent lubricated or unstuck...and- I have no idea how to do that-any sources you can recommend?

  • I have the same problem...
    Did you have any luck, it's getting pretty cold here in New England.

  • I have this problem as well for about 1.5 years. The dial is stuck right at the top between the hot/cold spot while the engine is running. However, I can easily change the dial over if the engine is off. This may seem like a "duh" thing, but I actually didn't try it w/o the engine on until last fall. Surprisingly this also made my A/C light come back on; it hadn't worked all summer. Maybe this might work for you.
  • Hi, I have a new 2010 Outlander V6. The engine light came on and it felt like I was running on 5 cylinders. Dealer found a random misfire and reset the code. 15 mile later same thing. They switched coils and it now looks like a bad injector. Anyone seen the problem? The car have 2600km, or 1600 miles, just a month old? Any suggestions.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I do also have a 2010 Outlander GT. Your car is under warranty and you ought to use it all the way until your car is put all right. After one or twice the dealer failed to put your car right you should ask for a new vehicle or have your money back. Your problem is a very specialized situation and may need to reset the ECU (run again all the software that control your vehicle) from scratch. Take note of the work been carried by the dealer if the problem persist then I think you have all the right to request your money back or a new vehicle
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    I think they'd replace the engine before replacing the entire vehicle.

    The problem sounds repairable so I would continue with the dealer and let them resolve it. If they cannot fix it to your satisfaction or if it is taking too many visits, escalate to the regional manager or take it to another dealer.

    My '10 GT is now about 6 weeks old and has 1200 miles. 0 problems so far. I just had the towing kit & remote start installed the other day.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    I think Batman47 is referring to a lemon law which keeps new owners from being jerked around by dealers after a certain amount of repairs have been attempted without being resolved, A quick search for the the law here in NY yielded this:

    What Are A Consumer's Rights If The Manufacturer Does Not Meet Its Duty To Repair?

    If the problem is not repaired after a reasonable number of attempts, or the manufacturer or the dealer refuses to commence repairs within 20 days from the manufacturer's receipt of the "refusal to repair" notice from the consumer, and if the problem substantially impairs the value of the car to the consumer, the manufacturer, at the consumer's option, must either refund the full purchase or lease price, or offer a comparable replacement car.

    Does The Law Specify The Number Of Required Repair Attempts?

    It is presumed that there have been a reasonable number of attempts to repair a problem if, during the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first, either: (1) the same problem has been subject to repair four or more times and the problem continues to exist; or (2) the car is out of service by reason of repair of one or more problems for a cumulative total of 30 or more calendar days and the problem continues to exist.
  • Hi, The dealer thinks its a bad injector and a new one is one order. I wanted to know if this was a common problem or not. The XLS in Canada is the GT in the US and so far its a great vechicle, other than this hick up I am happy. I wanted to see if this was a common problem or not, my guess is its not.

    Thanks everyone for the feedback.
  • How do you like the remote starting kit? What did they charge you? Its 600 bucks here.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    The one the dealer sold me was an Audiovox & not OEM MItsu. It's OK but includes a separate fob. There's only one button and you do a slow double-click to start it. The car will run for up to 20 minutes before automatically shutting down. Downside, though, is that the integration is not 100%. When I get in the car I have to start it again with the FAST key in the vehicle. Basically, press the brake and the engine stops (canceling the start initiated by the remote start), then turn the starter and restart it. It only takes a couple of seconds but is not my ideal.

    It will do to warm up/cool down the car from a distance (up to 300 yards supposedly) but I would have preferred better integration, namely not having to restart and not having a second fob even if it is very small.
  • Dealer installed a new injector on cylinder three today, fix the problems runs like a champ.

  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    Glad to hear it! Hopefully this doesn't sour your enjoyment of the car going forward. I've got just under 1300 miles on my GT as of yesterday.

    I've been reading how some Toyota owners are wanting to ditch their vehicles and are swearing off the brand. That seems unreasonable or at least premature to me. As long as problems are found & fixed I'll try to give them the benefit of the doubt when something happens.

    Cars have literally thousands of parts and IMO building a perfect car just isn't possible. It's how the dealer & maker react when a problem occurs that matters.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Perhaps few people know that each of the hundreds of parts (e.g. nuts, plugs, etc) in a vehicle must be torque to vehicle specifications. However for more than 10-years I haven’t seen anybody (garages, shops etc) using a torque wrench to torque, for example, the oil drain plug, the oil filter, and so on. Short cut service procedures seem to be the norm nowadays.

    I took my car (due to the cold weather I didn’t want to do it myself) for an oil change and it was done without the use of any torque wrench to adjust the parts. These technician mechanics can damage your car if they over tighten your aluminum oil container.

    If it is not damaged the first time it is most probable that your car will be leaking oil in the next few years.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    I dunno. Over the years I've never had trouble using a 3/8" drive short ratchet to tighten my oil drain plugs on a variety of vehicles. You can develop a good feel and it's hard to over tighten (25-30 ft lbs or so) . Likewise, with the spin-on filters you lube the O-ring with some new oil and spin 'em on hand tight (usually 1/2-3/4 of a turn past first contact).

    Where I absolutely use a torque wrench and want the shop to use one is tightening wheel lug nuts so they don't warp the rotors . I've seen too many use the impact wrench (and I'm not talking with a real low limit set just to spin 'em on quick followed by a torque wrench to finish) I personally have never had problems with my filters or oil plugs in over 30 yrs doing it myself. I do use the torque wrench on all other engine bolts, it's just I feel I've got a good feel on that one, but yes, when it doubt use the torque wrench. I would rather I do the work myself whenever possible than trust the quick lube tech does what they are supposed to, but sometimes you have no choice. The one time I did see a problem on an oil filter is when I didn't install it and my stepdaughter had previously used a quick lube place and I found lots of oil over the engine around the filter (too loose) I got there in time to change it (spun off pretty easy) and told her to always get in the habit to look in the driveway for obvious leaks in the future. Sometimes I swear those techs that get paid min wage are preoccupied waiting for the next cigarette break. ("now where was I'?, Yeah, I think I tightened it before break.".. :sick:
  • We are buying a used 2003 Outlander. When does the timing belt need to be replaced and is this motor the type that will receive horrible damage if the timing belt breaks while running?
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    More than likely it's 60K, which matches my former '99 Galant. It also matches what many automakers require (Example: my wife's Elantra). Unless you're in California; there it's warranted for 90 or 100K due to state law. Don't ask me for specifics on that, though, as I've only read about it and am not a CA resident.

    I'm not sure if Mitsu engines are interference designs or not, but either way I would say do the maintenance & replace things on schedule. Keeping a vehicle in top operating condition will net you the best fuel economy and fewest headaches in the long run.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,573
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says it should be replaced at 60,000 miles.

    Gates says the engine is an interference one, so things go boom when the timing belt breaks.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    Steve - FYI the Edmunds maintenance schedule doesn't have info for the 2010 Outlander. Does Edmunds input the data or are submissions from owners like me accepted?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,573
    The new models take a while to get implemented. You could use the Contact Us link and someone in the home office may be able to give you an ETA.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    I might be remembering wrong but I thought my 2007 manual said something like 105K for the V6. I'll have to search again when I get a chance. (if so, this works out well in to be in sync with the powertrain warranty i.e; if it snaps at 95K it's on their dime to fix it all)
  • danvodanvo Posts: 4
    :) Hi all, I just change my 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander cabin air filter. And made a short video clip would like to share with you

    How To Replace 2003, 2004, 2005 & 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Cabin Air Filter

  • costello1costello1 Posts: 60
    Has anyone had this work done by a Mitis dealer ?? What is the cost and what do they do?? Not sure if I can get it done cheaper by a local shop. Thanks
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 991
    I'm curious myself. My '07 is at about 29K
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,348
    Most dealers will have their own service schedule that exceeds what the manufacturer specifies. The extra services rarely hurt but aren't needed (at least not at that time/mileage) and as such make the service more profitable for the service department.

    I don't know if the non-dealer shops (Merlin's, Meineke, Midas, Car-X, etc.) do the same thing or not.

    You can always simply say you want only what the manufacturer recommends. You have the manual; it has a maintenance section so you can look up for yourself what Mitsu requires.

    Price-wise, I've not found the price differences to be all that great. Dealer labor rates are higher, but you're talking by maybe $25 an hour or so. I don't have a problem paying a little more for mechanics/"technicians" who were factory trained. They're far more likely to know the idiosyncrasies of your particular vehicle v. a mechanic who works on everything from Audis to Volvos.

    I've also had good luck at my dealer; I brought my car there for everything (oil changes, etc.) and they would sometimes just give me 10% off the bill. I never asked for it; they just extended the offer. Oil chances were maybe a buck or two more than the 10 minute places but I don't trust those joints at all. And the dealer is always willing to shuttle me somewhere (loaners for overnight) if I can't stay for the duration.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,573
    edited March 2010
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what Mitsu says should be done and will estimate what it should cost for your zip code.

    And yeah, the dealer will try to get you do more stuff - most service writers work on commission.
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