Yes I have read your post on the solution for mirror noise. Look like a small,trivial ,easy to fit noise problem. Again, would love if the new car is "noisy free" on the mirrors,doors or even the front engine knocks. Hope the mitsu has rectified all those concerns bought up by this forum in the new production batch. I put the my money on 07 Outlander during my very first test drive. Why? This was how I make up my mind:
Test drives three new model crossover SUVs within one hour. First, I test drove the Rav4, then Outlander followed by CRV. The 07 Outlander caught my heart with its appearance,handling and responsiveness. Here, we get the 2.4L engine petrol version same as the Japanese market which has two model: M and G grade. The M grade is USD58K and USD62K for the G grade. And guess what, the G grade,in term of specs and features and perks, it is no where near your XLS! No cruise control, no navigation system, no blue tooth for phone and the most important not a V6 engine.!! So, price wise kind of a high side. To be fair, it is indeed a nice car to have.
If the Oulander is so expensive and decontented in Singapore, I wonder how the RAV4 and CRV are? Geez, take your money and go to US to buy a car - you could get into a luxury SUV for that kind of money- BMW/MB/Audi/Volvo/Lexus/Acura/Infinity. You pick... :confuse:
I just breezed thru the brochure, and the Singapore Outlander actually has an automatic xenon headlight that turns auto-off when it's bright and auto-on when it's dark. I thought I remembered you asked about it in the HID of the US XLS
@carkaki: Do you have a link for the pricing for the Singapore Outlander? I can't seem to find the pricing at Mitsu SG website.
You are right! No price information from the Singapore mitsu website. But you can try this:www.sgcarmart.com.sg (under new cars)
Cars in Singapore are one of the world most expensive to own. BMW X5 - USD180K, Audi Q7 USD200K , RAV4 57K and CRV 59K . So, I really envy you guys that can get cars on invoice price.
"It does look like all the car companies are using this low grade plastic, shame on us consumers for putting up with it" Not all, have you checked Lexus or Audi before you made your decision? All in this price range - yes. Rav4 is even worse (check review from any source), by your definition it looks 4X cheap (since for Outlander you repeated it three times). Many people (including me) think it actually looks good, and it is same quality as CRV, Santa Fe or CX7. Now, all those issues with your new car. Our brand new (then) 2004 top of the line Accord had paint bubble on a door (door had to be re painted, so left alone), cracked leather on a driver seat(replaced seat), hanging head liner in the back (repaired), and bad heater switch (repaired). No problems since, and guess what, we still love it and will buy another one (maybe with better styling next time). So if you are really unhappy just trade it in and get yourself underpowered, overpriced, not so pretty but "H" signed CRV.
So if you are really unhappy just trade it in and get yourself underpowered, overpriced, not so pretty but "H" signed CRV. .... Plus, with potential for similar or bigger problems as per CRV forums ... One way to increase the chances for less initial quality issues would be to wait for the second production year if you could afford it. Other than that it comes down to luck.
I called my local dealer at the end of last week and my parts will be in this week to do the repairs to stop the knock. He said that Mitsu has issued a service bulletin to the dealers now and are going around and speaking w/ the service depts on the issue. So it is acknowledged by Mitsu now. Just FYI
Great news. One issue down, one more to go. Hopefully they will put out a TSB for the side mirror rattle too. And fix both on the production line as well.
I just picked up my car and found out by reading this forum I'm going mental trying to listen for noises. My wife thinks I'm nuts. I heard a noise yesterday by the passenger seat. I had my wife going nuts trying to locate it. Well all she did was move the stuff around in the glove box and the noise was gone. I have to relax and enjoy the car. Fortunately I have not herd any of the multiple noises some have been experiencing YET!
Don't go looking for defects in a perfectly fine car. The issues are only in a handful of vehicles, so the issues might not be in your Outlander at all.
As far as I know a car is a complex machinery with many moving parts, fans, bearings, belts, valves, relays, pumps, and pistons when running. If you don't hear any noises it is probably dead. I'm afraid we are going bit paranoid here.
Just got a call from the dealer about my 8 day old car. They tried to fix the wind noise in the passanger side door by using silicone. The service guy did not think this worked but mentioned that four other people had the same procedure done. They also mentioned that both bearings in the front end must be replaced, which they said was also a known issue. I owned this car which I do I would not be happy and I would make sure my car is checked out for these problems.
If I was considering buying one of these cars I would be very very cautious and wait until these issues are resolved.
There is no paranoia here on this board, there is incompetence from Mitubisishi to put this vehicle on the market with these types of problems.
I understand your frustrations, but hardly any other make is perfect and problem free. In my case however, I made steps to have these issues solved, got it serviced, and now my Outlander is problem free. I think the front-end knock and left mirror noise are but minor annoyances when you compare it to a Honda CR-V that would need a rear-differential replacement.
What I would suggest to new buyers is do your assignment. Take the vehicle for a test drive. These issues are easily identifiable during test drive. We have described it here for you to make an accurate evaluation of the new vehicle. So be a wise buyer, test your vehicle for these problems before buying it.
I just purchased an 07' outlander XLS. Beautiful car. no noise at all. RAV and Honda not even close with this Ride, interior look very nice, NAV, sound system Rocks. Not sure what the complaints are about. I would definitely be bringing it to the Dealer, plus test ride another car and see if its present in that one. If NOT they have to fix. I test drove the exact car I was buying, multiple times and at night.
I also have to disagree about the Cheap plastic. People have looked at my and said WOW is that the new Lexus. definitely better looking inside than the Rav, honda, Hund. etc. I have the two tone, tan-black-silver. I think they did a very nice job.
You don't have to disagree with me. Since the day I test drove it (in November), I like it's interior design and quality. I wouldn't say it matches Lexus or Audi levels, but definitely is in line with comparable priced ones, and better than RAV4. Again, this is personal opinion, so some people my find it not good enough for them.
I feel my Outlander has wind noise issue also (I don't know how it is relative to other compact SUVs). Not sure if its related to the left door rattle. I don't want to call it cabin noise, cuz i definitely think its more prominent when I am driving above 40-50 mph and more prominent if its windy outside. I will be getting it checked next week. One thing I notice on my Outlander, is that there is black colored foam/insulation material between the side view mirrors to where they attach to the car chassis, it is visible to me, sitting in my driver's seat. I wonder if others car owners can also see the insulation material or is it just a finishing issue in my car? Maybe it is adding to or causing the wind noise?
Hmmm.. then maybe that is not the reason for any additional wind noise. O well, its not that big of a deal, I just want to understand what can be fixed versus what is part of the package . It is still an "owner's pride, neighbour's envy" SUV.
My 07 outlander also has excessive wind noise. Dealer contacted MITSU and got a response that it is a known issue. I am going tommorow to a nearby dealer to fix it (I live in a different city from where I bought the SUV)...I hope it does fix the wind noise, which is making me crazy. Below is the response from MITSU, which my dealer gave me. Will keep you guys updated.
GROUP 42A Body Wind Noise From Outside Mirrors - 2007 Outlander. A wind noise (a light buzz) may originate from the outside mirror area of the 2007 Outlander when driving between 30-40 mph. The noise may be more apparent in a cross wind. To repair this condition, remove the plastic cover under the mirror pivot point. Apply adhesive backed foam or felt to the two tabs, wrapping the foam/ felt around each tab, then reinstall the cover. Verify the repair.
Sweet! Thanks for the update. That makes me a bit more optimistic, seems like it should alleviate the issue to some extent, it is fixable. As I said that issue is prominent when it is windy, seems like that is part of the symptoms outlined in your dealer's description. Hopefully my dealer can fix both issues (front end knock, and the wind noise due to the mirrors)!
I went to the dealer for the wind noise and gave the mirror noise fix bulletin and they did the fix accordingly. Now it has reduced to some extend. I am not getting wind noise from the passenger side. But from the driver side I am getting the noise...but it is not from the mirror. I am feeling that the wind noise is coming from a place above and behind my left ear ie. the top corner where the driver door and the B pillar meets. I think it is a problem with the window seal. Does anyone else has a similar problem? I don't know how many more trips I have to make to the to dealer for the issue where my left ear has an irritation once I come out of a drive.
Again everything else about this SUV is great, but the wind noise because of a improper sealing is like having excessive salt for a delicious and great meal...I wonder why MITSU overlooked small things like proper sealing when they did everything else correct. I don't know how many more trips to dealer I have to make for this issue. :mad:
i went with the extended warrant..the bumper to bumper to 10/100,000 The dealership said this would cover the Nav. and elctronics especially....Hope so.Extra $1000
yes, it is located on the left front underside of the engine.....It is a mini filter , maybe 2" in dia... It seems you have to take off the phony skid plate to get real access to it....there is a half funnel device about 2" under the filter to direct the oil into a pan after you loosen the filter.....
It looks like it'll be messy... I'm still about 2 months away from a change..I hope someone that already did an oil change on the Outtie will post here to give us a few tips...
I had my factory fill dumped at 1000km (~650 mi). Wanted to get the wear metals out of the oil along with some of the assembly lube. High wear metal particulate contamination is not good for the engine in the long run. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_diesel_report_expl.html
Next oil change is going to be at 4k km and after that every 5k. At which point, I might switch to a quality oil product like Pennzoil platinum or Castrol Syntec etc..
Is anybody else getting shocked when exiting the car by static electricity? :surprise: I can actually see the ARC of the discharge when I touch the door to close it...
I have the cloth seats...Anybody have a FIX for this problem?
Anyone has thoughts on what would happen on a 3 or 5mph rear end collision on a 07 outlander. With the split tail gate arrangement I am concerned that repair cost will be high when the bottom split portion is damaged since this is part of the bumper. May even have to change the upper glass tailgate because the tail gate may not close.
I have this shock all the time. I have no clue what it could be. On a side note, there is not one issue with my outlander that someone has not touched upon, in some way, on this forum. It is amazing. From the ill fitting, cheap plastic, to the side mirror wind noise, etc. One thing i would like to fix is the fasten your seat belt alert noise. Does anyone no how to disengage this feature?
I thought about the same thing...I got nailed 3 times in the past 5 years in my old Forester by chicks on cell phones...No damage done to the Forester though... That is why I'm going to spring for a towing package shortly...The tow bar and ball should at least keep "me" from backing into a wall or something..and put a nice hole in some gals radiator... after they nail me in the butt.
One thing i would like to fix is the fasten your seat belt alert noise. Does anyone no how to disengage this feature?
Wear your seatbelts to disengage the alarm Why wouldn't you want a feature like that? I thought you're not suppose to drive without your seatbelts on? It's actually a safety feature. Same with DRLs, I dunno why people are complaining about DRLs. Mitsu has been rated low on safety features before, and they made every effort to make safer cars. I guess if you don't want certain safety features, you can always go to the dealer and have them disable whatever feature you want if that's possible.
I have had my Outlander for 60 days and it's been a great trip so far (sarcasm). Out of the 60 days of ownership, my Outlander has been in the shop four times for a total of 7 days. I was given a rental for a period of three of those days. Let's begin. Problem #1 Windnoise, which will be resolved by dealer. I, of course, was the first one to have this problem. Problem #2, rattle from head liner when sunroof shade was pulled back, has progressively gotten worse and can now be heard with the shade shut. Dealership couldn't duplicate problem after I left it with them. It only seems to happen when I'm there showing them the issue,,, odd??? Problem #3 Power drivers seat rocks. Hit the gas seat rocks back, hit the breaks, seat tilts forward. Don't get me wrong, its not a lot, but you notice. Dealership tested all Outlanders on the lot, all of them do it???? Contacted engineers at Mitsu. Problem #4 Front passanger plastic door trim (goes from dast to headliner is bent and not aligned correctly, being replaced. Problem #5 bearings, many people have complained about this issue on this site. Going to be corrected, but on back order. Problem #6 PLEASE, LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM!!! When peddle is barley depressed, around 700 RPM, LOUD engine squeek, sounds like a rusty hampster wheel. I just hope my hamster doesnt die, I need to get to work. You will also notice this noise when you first kick on the A/C sound will pierce you ears untill the first compression cycle is completed. Went to dealership and once again, when I was there with the tech rep, it did it and everyone ran over to my vehicle and was like "thats not normal" REALLY!!! This is my 13th vehicle and all of them have done this. (Sorry, sarcasm) Left it with dealership, couldn't duplicate it again. Took it back twice more. Finally, they were able to hear it. Took another Outlander in the bay, warmed it up and it did it also, just not as loud as mine. They are going to contact Mitsu to see if it is a common issue. Other than that I LOVE !!!! my Outlander. The new commericals should add another line " OUTREPAIR" to there catchy outeverything. You figure that a vehicle that has been in Japan for three years, they would get this S@!T right. Let me know you you are experiencing any of these issue, I would like to know.
I never had the front end clunk or so I thought. I noticed it today couple times albeit faintly (just once during each trip) It happened when starting out (after backing out the other way and turning the wheel in other way). I havent had this before and it happens occasionally. Is this the front end clunk that everyone is talking about?
"#43 of 59 Re: Fix update [mucool] by mucool Feb 08, 2007 (9:05 pm) I went to my dealership today. Had a good overall experience, was treated very nicely, the dealership had already ordered the parts. However , seems like the "clunking" noise that I thought was the front-end-knock issue , is "normal" ABS self check. I only have the issue when i start/restart the engine and back out making left/right turns (not on normal driving/turns etc).
The service manager gave me a printed Tech Talk monthly issued by Mitsubishi It had the following description for my clunking sound GROUP 35 Service Brakes : ABS Pump Noise (Update): 2006-07 Eclipse, 2007 Eclipse Spyder and Outlander : ABS System Conducts a self-check to ensure it is functioning properly the first time the vehicle reaches approx 2.5 mph. During the self check, a "clunking" noise will be heard from the right front of the engine compartment. The noise only occurs the first time the vehicle is driven after the engine is started. It will not reoccur until the engine is restarted. This noise is a normal operation of the ABS System. Do not attempt to repair this condition.
However, my dealership still replaced the bearings etc as they had already ordered the parts. The replacement did not make any difference in the clunk sound though." I hope this would help.
What trim is your Outlander and when did you buy it? Give us an idea from what "batch" your SUV is. From your list of problems, I only have #1 and #5, which are all known issues and my dealer did a nice job of fixing it for good.
I took out the OEM black floor mats and used them as a template to cut a bunch of new ones from some very high quality medium grey berber carpet that my neighbor had left over from his re-carpet of his condo....Now, when one gets stained with oil or dog crap, I'll just put in a new one each time I need to.... Later, when I trade this Outtie in, I'll just put the new "black originals" back in to give it that "well taken care of" look. COST?......$0.00 ..... TIME?......35 MINUTES....
I tried to find the location of oil filter and I couldnt find it readily. I am assuming its a canister and not a cartridge one. I gave up as soon as my belly was about to touch the undercarriage.
I dont know where it is hiding but want to know if a wix filter or Amsoil Eao filter has enough room in there. I have a feeling that the standard ones are too small. Besides, when I switch to Amsoil, I'd like to upgrade the filter as well..
My guess is that it is visible. Its a canister type so shouldn't require removing anything to get at it, much less a skid plate itself. On an interesting note, I've been fed a bunch of lies from various mitsu dealers. One guy says changing your own oil will void the warranty. Another says using a bigger oil filter will do the same. All the while, others in same dealerships say that it is perfectly fine to do either. Something to do with Magnuson-Moss act. Personally, cant wait to get rid of the crappy oil and filter and replace them with quality stuff.
I did change my oil filter last week. (Around 2500 miles. I like the first one to be quick after a round up then settle into 5000 next round.) The oil filter is right behind the radiator almost in the center of the whole engine. Parallel to the ground. (A nice touch on Outies for a small stainless drain below the filter to allow the oil from filter to drain out away from engine.) I get the filters (6 packs) from Mitsu's dealership where I bought my car, Nice folks. I did ask for the special oil filter ranch for exact fit but unfortunately they don't carry them. To my surprise, my donated 88 Acura Integra's "new" Honda oil filter ranch fit perfectly. (Honda went through from the bigger size oil filter to new tiny size filter on me 2 years ago.) I got mine special fitted oil filter socket from Acura parts department 2 years ago. If I remember correctly, it is around $18 or so. (Help yourself, bring a Outies filter to test it before you buy it.) With the exact matching socket, 3/8 Ratchet, I got to work. (I am too lazy to remove the plastic cover -- even though it on the way... But I am small anyway ) Even with the exact tools, it is still very tight. I have to say, took the first oil filter out is a b**ch :mad: . IMHO, Mitsu factory probably over tighten the filter a bit. The exact socket can't take the thing out, it only allow you to tighten it up with *proper* force. That's OK. Go back to my tool box, I took out my utilmate tool.(That one most Auto part shop sell you that you turn the thing it tighten more with the direction you go with the teeth at the end that *really* bite into the oil filter something puncher the filter). Once it is out, some oil will drip to the plastic cover that I was too lazy to take out. :P ) You can picture this since the filter is on the middle of engine block, I was under the car with my arm almost fully extend out to unscrew the oil filter. I could use another hand to hold a cup under the drip funnel--OK.,OK I am lazy. After that everything is smooth sail. :shades:
I used ramps when I change the oil since our driveway is sloped. That's said, with my luck, my wife just so happened to have our car the rear tired punctured which I had to put on a spare tire with a jack stand. :sick: I did look up the menu and put a jack stand for the spare, (on the end of the book emergency section for replace the spare tire.) If you have 2 jack stands, you can lift it up there. Ditto location when Discount Tire company lift my car up to put in the new tire yesterday .
BTW, this is my first car with tire pressure sensor. I now know that when the tire first put in, that "flat tire" warning won't go away till 5 minutes after I had drove off the tire company parking lot.
I have had my 2005 Outlander for just over a month now. It has 27K miles on it, I put a thousand miles on it already. It hasn't had any problems since I bought it, until today. I was driving about 20 m/h in traffic, when the car jerked twice, then drove another 30 feet, and the engine simply died. The lights remained lit. The oil and battery indicators came on. I turned off the engine, started it again, all indicators came on as usual, the car was running as usual. Drove it back home without problems (a couple of miles) since I wasn't sure it was going to make the rest of the 25 mile trip. The car had a full tank of gas.
Already made an appt with a dealer, but I was wondering if anybody might have an idea or point me in the right direction as to what I may attribute the problem to.
The owner manuel said that no excessive crazy driving for the first 300 miles. My Outie just passed it yesterday. The question is should I get the oil change now to get rid of the dirt or wait for the schedule oil change at 7500 miles? I'm taking the SUV for vacation next week. About 250 miles one way.
Comments
I put the my money on 07 Outlander during my very first test drive. Why? This was how I make up my mind:
Test drives three new model crossover SUVs within one hour.
First, I test drove the Rav4, then Outlander followed by CRV. The 07 Outlander caught my heart with its appearance,handling and responsiveness. Here, we get the 2.4L engine petrol version same as the Japanese market which has two model: M and G grade. The M grade is USD58K and USD62K for the G grade. And guess what, the G grade,in term of specs and features and perks, it is no where near your XLS! No cruise control, no navigation system, no blue tooth for phone and the most important not a V6 engine.!!
So, price wise kind of a high side.
To be fair, it is indeed a nice car to have.
Geez, take your money and go to US to buy a car - you could get into a luxury SUV for that kind of money- BMW/MB/Audi/Volvo/Lexus/Acura/Infinity. You pick... :confuse:
@carkaki: Do you have a link for the pricing for the Singapore Outlander? I can't seem to find the pricing at Mitsu SG website.
(under new cars)
Cars in Singapore are one of the world most expensive to own. BMW X5 - USD180K, Audi Q7 USD200K , RAV4 57K and CRV 59K . So, I really envy you guys that can get cars on invoice price.
Not all, have you checked Lexus or Audi before you made your decision? All in this price range - yes. Rav4 is even worse (check review from any source), by your definition it looks 4X cheap (since for Outlander you repeated it three times). Many people (including me) think it actually looks good, and it is same quality as CRV, Santa Fe or CX7.
Now, all those issues with your new car. Our brand new (then) 2004 top of the line Accord had paint bubble on a door (door had to be re painted, so left alone), cracked leather on a driver seat(replaced seat), hanging head liner in the back (repaired), and bad heater switch (repaired). No problems since, and guess what, we still love it and will buy another one (maybe with better styling next time). So if you are really unhappy just trade it in and get yourself underpowered, overpriced, not so pretty but "H" signed CRV.
.... Plus, with potential for similar or bigger problems as per CRV forums ...
One way to increase the chances for less initial quality issues would be to wait for the second production year if you could afford it. Other than that it comes down to luck.
If I was considering buying one of these cars I would be very very cautious and wait until these issues are resolved.
There is no paranoia here on this board, there is incompetence from Mitubisishi to put this vehicle on the market with these types of problems.
Thanks for listening.
What I would suggest to new buyers is do your assignment. Take the vehicle for a test drive. These issues are easily identifiable during test drive. We have described it here for you to make an accurate evaluation of the new vehicle. So be a wise buyer, test your vehicle for these problems before buying it.
Again, this is personal opinion, so some people my find it not good enough for them.
It is still an "owner's pride, neighbour's envy" SUV.
GROUP 42A Body
Wind Noise From Outside Mirrors - 2007
Outlander. A wind noise (a light buzz) may
originate from the outside mirror area of the
2007 Outlander when driving between 30-40
mph. The noise may be more apparent in a
cross wind. To repair this condition, remove
the plastic cover under the mirror pivot point.
Apply adhesive backed foam or felt to the two
tabs, wrapping the foam/ felt around each tab,
then reinstall the cover. Verify the repair.
Again everything else about this SUV is great, but the wind noise because of a improper sealing is like having excessive salt for a delicious and great meal...I wonder why MITSU overlooked small things like proper sealing when they did everything else correct. I don't know how many more trips to dealer I have to make for this issue. :mad:
I always do my own changes and am just wondering if there are any tips that one could give or any problems one will encounter.
The oil filter is very small and very hard to get to...A special tool may be needed...
It seems you have to take off the phony skid plate to get real access to it....there is a half funnel device about 2" under the filter to direct the oil into a pan after you loosen the filter.....
It looks like it'll be messy...
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_diesel_report_expl.html
Next oil change is going to be at 4k km and after that every 5k. At which point, I might switch to a quality oil product like Pennzoil platinum or Castrol Syntec etc..
I have the cloth seats...Anybody have a FIX for this problem?
That is why I'm going to spring for a towing package shortly...The tow bar and ball should at least keep "me" from backing into a wall or something..and put a nice hole in some gals radiator...
Wear your seatbelts to disengage the alarm
I went to my dealership today. Had a good overall experience, was treated very nicely, the dealership had already ordered the parts. However , seems like the "clunking" noise that I thought was the front-end-knock issue , is "normal" ABS self check. I only have the issue when i start/restart the engine and back out making left/right turns (not on normal driving/turns etc).
The service manager gave me a printed Tech Talk monthly issued by Mitsubishi
It had the following description for my clunking sound
GROUP 35 Service Brakes : ABS Pump Noise (Update): 2006-07 Eclipse, 2007 Eclipse Spyder and Outlander : ABS System Conducts a self-check to ensure it is functioning properly the first time the vehicle reaches approx 2.5 mph. During the self check, a "clunking" noise will be heard from the right front of the engine compartment. The noise only occurs the first time the vehicle is driven after the engine is started. It will not reoccur until the engine is restarted. This noise is a normal operation of the ABS System. Do not attempt to repair this condition.
However, my dealership still replaced the bearings etc as they had already ordered the parts. The replacement did not make any difference in the clunk sound though."
I hope this would help.
Problem #1 Windnoise, which will be resolved by dealer. I, of course, was the first one to have this problem.
Please let us know in detail how was this resolved!
http://www.mitsubishiforum.com/m_116115/tm.htm
Later, when I trade this Outtie in, I'll just put the new "black originals" back in to give it that "well taken care of" look.
COST?......$0.00 .....
TIME?......35 MINUTES....
I dont know where it is hiding but want to know if a wix filter or Amsoil Eao filter has enough room in there. I have a feeling that the standard ones are too small. Besides, when I switch to Amsoil, I'd like to upgrade the filter as well..
I found the following that maybe of interest to you folks
Oil
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
Ea Filter
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=6904
Wix Filter
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51356
BTW, when I was down there, I was very surprised as to how rugged it is.
The oil filter is right behind the radiator almost in the center of the whole engine. Parallel to the ground.
(A nice touch on Outies for a small stainless drain below the filter to allow the oil from filter to drain out away from engine.)
I get the filters (6 packs) from Mitsu's dealership where I bought my car, Nice folks. I did ask for the special oil filter ranch for exact fit but unfortunately they don't carry them.
To my surprise, my donated 88 Acura Integra's "new" Honda oil filter ranch fit perfectly. (Honda went through from the bigger size oil filter to new tiny size filter on me 2 years ago.)
I got mine special fitted oil filter socket from Acura parts department 2 years ago. If I remember correctly, it is around $18 or so. (Help yourself, bring a Outies filter to test it before you buy it.)
With the exact matching socket, 3/8 Ratchet, I got to work. (I am too lazy to remove the plastic cover -- even though it on the way... But I am small anyway
Even with the exact tools, it is still very tight.
I have to say, took the first oil filter out is a b**ch :mad: . IMHO, Mitsu factory probably over tighten the filter a bit. The exact socket can't take the thing out, it only allow you to tighten it up with *proper* force. That's OK. Go back to my tool box, I took out my utilmate tool.(That one most Auto part shop sell you that you turn the thing it tighten more with the direction you go with the teeth at the end that *really* bite into the oil filter something puncher the filter). Once it is out, some oil will drip to the plastic cover that I was too lazy to take out. :P )
You can picture this since the filter is on the middle of engine block, I was under the car with my arm almost fully extend out to unscrew the oil filter. I could use another hand to hold a cup under the drip funnel--OK.,OK I am lazy.
After that everything is smooth sail. :shades:
HTH -Ming
That's said, with my luck, my wife just so happened to have our car the rear tired punctured which I had to put on a spare tire with a jack stand. :sick:
I did look up the menu and put a jack stand for the spare, (on the end of the book emergency section for replace the spare tire.) If you have 2 jack stands, you can lift it up there. Ditto location when Discount Tire company lift my car up to put in the new tire yesterday
BTW, this is my first car with tire pressure sensor. I now know that when the tire first put in, that "flat tire" warning won't go away till 5 minutes after I had drove off the tire company parking lot.
Already made an appt with a dealer, but I was wondering if anybody might have an idea or point me in the right direction as to what I may attribute the problem to.