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"Turns out that it was not just the gas cap (which was replaced) that caused the CEL to go off. The computer diagnostic showed that the air control valve (acv) was not working properly. The ACV was getting stuck because the IMRC (?) control switch was improperly mounted and not working properly, causing the valve to get carboned up and stuck. They had to remove the switch, elongate the mounting holes and put it all back together."
At 11,314 miles, my CEL popped on again. Similar problem to what yellowozzie reported...IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control ) switch got stuck, code P2006.
Found out what the IMRC does..."The IMRC closes off the ports at low rpm to improve torque and cold weather startups." (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2230297) in a technical discussion about the CX-7 engine, complete with cutaway pics of the engine.
Vince.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced the gas cap. The light hasn't come on again after another 700 miles on the vehicle - so hopefully that did it. Dealer was aware of the issue beforehand, so I didn't get any runaround.
I was hoping the Flash would fix it, but tonight they were flickering again. It only happens after I've been driving the car for a little while (at least 20 minutes).
V.
Since the dealership did the "software" update (I don't know what a pcm flash is), the stereo lights have not flickered. I've put on 2500 miles since then. It seemed to me that the lights didn't flicker unless the car was warmed up, as you say, but since I live on the coast a warm up only takes a few minutes so I couldn't definitively say that was a symptom. Also, the CEL has not come on since getting the new gas cap.
good luck, and keep us posted -- by the way, 23 mpg on the freeways in WY and CO at 75mph in very cold weather.
I don't think it had anything to do with the PCM Flash. I have the latest.
I DID discover tonight that dimming the dash illumination may be at least part of the issue. Driving home tonight the radio button lights started to flicker. When I pressed the dash illumination button (to turn it to daytime w/headlights on mode) the flickering stopped. When I pressed it again (returning to normal mode) the flickering started right back up. When I then adjusted the dash illumination dial all the way up (until it beeped) the flickering stopped.
It COULD be that you had turned yours down a bit and when your brought it into the shop they returned them to default highest position. OR that something else they did to your car returned them to the default hightest position. OR you adjusted them yourself to a position that isn't causing the lights to flicker. Mine were almost all the way up, but not quite, when they were flickering. Could be at just the right setting, the flickering happens.
Makes me think it's more a voltage regulator thing, not a radio thing. I'll be keeping my eye on it.
ps, after I just finished writing this, they called from the dealer and apologized... it's not the shutter valve. It's the "swirl control valve". (Still no replacement, just more grease) hmmmmm
Driving around with the CEL on for months is scary... seems like that would obscure any OTHER problems that come along in the same time period. Here's hoping all you've done is run your mixture rich and gotten really bad mileage for a while...
Anyway, I feel your pain... I got a CEL this morning. I have my own scanner ($60 or so at "America's Favorite Superstore"). The code shows it is the gas cap (again). Turns out the homemade gas cap fix the dealer gave me back in August ain't gonna cut it. Time to go back and get the REAL gas cap.
Good luck.
-c92
"the P2006 code means the ECU is not seeing the TSCV [Tumble Swirl Control Valve] being closed and thinks the TSCV is stuck open... it is not catestrophic but may reduce low end torque and increase emissions
mazda engineers are working on a repair kit for this problem... it will be at least mid january before it is out and a TSB will be released then as well"
link: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123651124&page=3
A good site to watch for TSB's (technical service bulletins) is here:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cx7/bulletins_index.html
Remember you can always add a topic under "Mazda CX-7" if you think it's warranted.
-c92
Will update as events evolve......
Vince.
thanx for the info!
I read on another forum:
"the P2006 code means the ECU is not seeing the TSCV [Tumble Swirl Control Valve] being closed and thinks the TSCV is stuck open... it is not catestrophic but may reduce low end torque and increase emissions
mazda engineers are working on a repair kit for this problem... it will be at least mid january before it is out and a TSB will be released then as well"
link: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123651124&page=3
A good site to watch for TSB's (technical service bulletins) is here:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cx7/bulletins_index.html
Vince.
Is this whole thing gonna be a 6 step process until they identify and fix the real problem for the CEL? Fortunately, my dealer allows me to bring the vehicle late in the day on my way home from work, so I am unfortunately ready to accept my fate of multiple dealer service visits...
Say it aint so............
Sorry, I couldn't resist.....As I have leased the car, I am not going to worry about CEL warnings unless the display is blinking.....Let the engine seize for all I care......
The dealer wants $25.00 for a special wrench of some sort that takes off the cartridge bolt and about $8.00 for the cartridge filter.
Is it necessary to buy the wrench in order to change the cartridge for those do it yourselfers or those Cx-7 owners who want to go elsewhere for routine oil changes?
The Mazda dealer claims you can break off the cartridge bolt if not using the special wrench.
-c92
When you go to your dealer, insist that they check these out for you and update your onboard computer system.
New one on me.
If that were the case, then there would never be a car sold in Alaska or anywhere else it got down to a sub-zero climate. And he's wrong about the tires as well; they don't shrink, they lose the density of the air inside, but reheat when the temp goes up.
It might be time to get corporate involved... too many CELs may mean a greater problem.
Wonder how many other New Englanders were greeted this morning with CEL????
Not planning on going to dealer as weather is supposed to go up to 40 tomorrow......
I'm tempted to disable the CEL!
Vince.
wjbushsr, as for the info about the gas cap and tires contracting in the cold weather...that was my language, not the technician's. Maybe it is a load of crap, but...it's not entirely out of the question. It's freaking COLD here!!!
V.
Wonder how many other New Englanders were greeted this morning with CEL????
Not planning on going to dealer as weather is supposed to go up to 40 tomorrow......
I'm tempted to disable the CEL!"
I'm in New York and it was pretty cold this morning but my CEL did not acitvate.
I have had the car a month and have about 1600 miles on it. I did ask the salesman about the gas cap issue and he implied that the problem was corrected. I don't recall if they checked and replaced all the caps at the dealer or if posssibly he meant that all of his inventory was free from the problem.
Anyone know if there is a way to check the cap or if certain VINs already have the problem fixed?
If the vehicle is in the range listed above and the cap has been replaced, it should have a label on the firewall noting MSP13 and the date the cap was replaced.
I'm on Long Island and it was like 5 degrees here this morning. No CEL (little over 2,000 miles on the car). So far so good!
If the vehicle is in the range listed above and the cap has been replaced, it should have a label on the firewall noting MSP13 and the date the cap was replaced."
My number is higher than the range you posted (JM3ER29**70137***) so I guess that is OK too. I must have got a fresh one.
Actually, cold air is denser (and therefore less volume and less pressure), but I knew what you meant.
Actually, it's only denser if the volume decreases. If you could cool gas in a sealed rigid container of fixed volume then the gas density would remain the same. When tires shrink on cooling, the density of the gas inside does increase. But I knew what both of you guys meant.
tidester, host