Volkswagen Jetta Starting and Stalling Issues
novamiko Member Posts: 2
i bought a 2002 jetta in nov 05. i just recently decided to replace the factory stereo. after having multiple problems (having to take the whole dash apart to get the stereo out --- problem #1), the stereo ended up not working (problem #2). the next day, i moved my car and all was fine. the day after, i went out to leave for work and the car would not start. it would click click, the lights would flash and the horn would honk. thats it. later that day, the locks wouldnt even unlock. i assumed it was a dead battery, so i went out and bought a new one. put it in. turned the key. nothing. whats going on?!
can someone PLEASE tell me what the crap is wrong?! i'm beginning to really hate this car.
can someone PLEASE tell me what the crap is wrong?! i'm beginning to really hate this car.
If your answer to both questions is no, then that was your first mistake. The stereo is tied into the alarm system and the ignition immobilizer - which may be the cause of your starting problem.
The key to working on any car is proper preparation.
If I were you, I would spend the $90 and get the full Bentley manual on CD and read the stereo replacement section thoroughly before proceeding with the stereo replacement.
no, i dont have a manual. i bought the car used and it didnt come with on. i had never anticipated a routine stereo installation to go so wrong.
would that be the reason why the new stereo wouldnt work? we connected all the wires and everything played and sounded fine. we unhooked the connections so we could place the slipcase and wires in the dash. when we put the stereo back in (what we thought would be the final time) it didnt work. i orginially thought maybe it was a blown fuse. (i'm hoping i dont have buy another stereo along with whatever else i'm going to need to fix this mess). it had power because the cd would eject, but no sound or any information on the faceplate. im just hoping all this is connected (and will be fairly easy & cheap to fix --- am i hoping for too much??)
i'll be getting that full Bentley manual now. again, thanks so much for your help. i really appreciate it.
When I bought the Bentley manual for my 1997 Jetta, it turned out to be the best investment I could have made. When my cruise control went out, I was able to rebuild it with the help of the manual (not an easy task, but it would have been a lot harder if I didn't buy the manual)...
stop. But as soon as the temp. goes up it starts and runs fine.I
changed the fuel filter and put so gas line antifreeze in.there
was no water in the filter.Thanks for any help.
Your year VW is ripe for having that problem.
My spark plugs are about 20 months old.
No problems with starting leading up to this.
Any ideas out there?
What he is really saying is.. .I already soaked you for a starter and I cannot think of anything else to sell you at this time.
Why the heck did he "guess" in the first place... what is wrong with good-ol' TROUBLESHOOTING and to isolate what the problem is? Then FIX it!
BTW: He did not get "burned" -- I am willing to bet he got PAIED for replacing the starter.
I had the timing belt changed on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T (73,000 miles) and my wife's 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T (68,000 miles) - and in both cases the waterpump was on the verge of disintegration (both pumps were replaced with the improved version with a metal impeller).
If the timing belt/waterpump has been changed before the 80,000 mile interval, I would make sure the coolant level in the expansion tank does not exceed the full line - which is the halfway mark in the reservoir. The upper half of the reservoir needs to be empty so the coolant has sufficient room to expand. Too much coolant in the reservoir will cause the coolant to overflow out of the reservoir - another way of producing the coolant migration condition.
Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it?
After starting it will run for anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes and then shut down. It will not restart for at least 5 minutes. Upon restart it might never quit again or it might quit after another period of time. It doesn't run rough or give any other symptoms that its going to quit. It just shuts down. No engine light. Looking for ideas.
However - starting then shutting off immeadiatly is often related to the immobilizer kicking in. (It thinks the car is being stolen)
1)The Serpentene belt drives the ALTERNATOR...
2)The alternator charges the BATTERY...
3)the battery starts the ENGINE...
Does that help you understand?
1) Charge battery fully (not a quickie 15 minuite)
2) Replace serp. belt.
If you have to 2.0L engine, the serp. belt takes about 37 seconds to remove and another 48 seconds to put new one on.
To replace blinker bulb, it may take about 4 minutes.
First and formost, check the oil to make sure it is not "milky" in apearance. (antifreeze in the oil)
After that, you need to determine if it is LEAKING or being burned off as steam out the tailpipe.
Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.
Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).
In addition, people have been known to flush out the G12 and put in the green stuff. Adding G12 in that situation would be just as bad as the reverse.
You are correct that the folks that chose to replace ALL their antifreeze with somthing else REALLY have to be careful about what they are doing. In this situation, an unknowing mechanic may add the wrong stuff.
Since virtually ALL of the various automakers specify HOAT antifreeze (or even pure OAT)... it is best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Intermixing the "green stuff" with any OAT is asking for trouble. To make matters worse, some automakes OAT is actually green.
Given that the G12 has proven itself to be perhaps one of the best antifreeze elixiers on the market.... I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.
Indipendant tests have shown that G12 will continue to protect the various engine metals FARRR longer than the "green stuff" which has to be replaced every couple of years to maintain the same level of protection.
OAT = Organic Acid Technology
HOAT = Hybred Organic Acid Technology
I agree, yet it does happen.
My understanding is G11 is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. So G12 is not compatible with it.
My son's '97 is labeled G11, but actually has green coolant in it. I believe G11 would be blue in color. I imagine the previous owner switched just because they had coolant changed and that was what the shop they went to used.
According to the Bentley Manual (covering 1993-1999 Golf/Jetta and 1995-2002 Cabriolets) right in front of me, VWs from early 1997 production (and on) SHOULD be used on all water-cooled VWs.
So unless she has a VW made before 1997, any antifreeze that is used other than G12 is an invitation for costly engine problems....
Sorry to hear that...
1999 through 2002 model Jettas have proven to be quite problematic (especially if you have an automatic transmission model).
Other potential problems you may encounter:
- Falling windows (due to VW''s idiotic decision to use plastic rwindow etaining clips instead of metal ones).
- Coil pack problems due to cracking (replacement packs are very difficult to find - not to mention very expensive).
- Excessive oil consumption with the 2.0L engines beginning with the early 1999 models (not sure if the problem was corrected by 2001). This one baffles me - considering that the 2.0L engines from 1993-1998 were fairly robust (albeit underpowered).
- Automatic transmissions (mentioned before) - not a VW strong suit - particularly the Mexican-made units.
If I were you, I would cut my losses and get rid of this car...
Sometime during the 1997 model year is when they switched from G11 to G12. Some 1997s came with G11, my son owns one. It says right on the resevoir to use G11.
In any case, whatever it contained initially may no longer be in there. Some people foolishly flush out G12 and run on the cheap green stuff. If someone has done that, adding G12 would cause problems.
I would suggest you print out the above document and take it back to the dealersip and get a full refund of your $350 dollars.
It really irks me that dealerships can be so blantently deceitful. The extended MAF warantee has been around since November of 2003.
I am going to explain my situation to see if someone can give me some direction of what to do.
I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L GLS.
Today I noticed that the ABS (yellow) and Brake (red) lights were blinking while I was driving. After I noticed this I drove back home, turned off the car and when I tried to open the trunk with the beeper it did not do anything. I went inside to try to open it with the button by the door and nothing. I tried to start the car and nothing. The odometer and clock started to flash and all the different symbols in the panel were flashing randomly. Also a nonstop clicking sound started.
I thought that maybe the battery was not making good contact, cleaned the poles but nothing changed.
I will really appreciate any advice.
The first thing I did was make sure everything was turned off so I could hear if the fuel pump did anything when I first turned the key to the one position. I could hear the pump activate for a few seconds then stop. It sounds like this car has a diaphragm-type pump. At least that is the sound I heard. I repeated this several times until it no longer made the noise. I then tried to turn the engine over. The engine turned over for about 10 seconds or so before it gave a kick. I tried a couple more times before it started and stayed running. Hmmm, gotta love those problems that are there one minute then gone the next!
Once we got the car home I had a look at the "sending unit/pump assembly" in the tank. Can't tell much by looking at that! I did manage to shine a light into the tank and I don't see any obvious difficulty with the fuel.
I am thinking there is some sort of intermittent fuel pump problem but I am not sure. I suspect those tank units are not cheap and don't want to suggest to those folks that they pay for a new one without being sure that is the cause of the problem.
Any thoughts or directions on this problem would be appreciated.
BTW the car has under 100,000 kilometers on it.