Volkswagen Jetta Starting and Stalling Issues

novamikonovamiko Member Posts: 2
i bought a 2002 jetta in nov 05. i just recently decided to replace the factory stereo. after having multiple problems (having to take the whole dash apart to get the stereo out --- problem #1), the stereo ended up not working (problem #2). the next day, i moved my car and all was fine. the day after, i went out to leave for work and the car would not start. it would click click, the lights would flash and the horn would honk. thats it. later that day, the locks wouldnt even unlock. i assumed it was a dead battery, so i went out and bought a new one. put it in. turned the key. nothing. whats going on?!

can someone PLEASE tell me what the crap is wrong?! i'm beginning to really hate this car.


  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Did you have the Bentley Factory Manual (on CD or in paperback )? If so, did you thoroughly read the section on removing the stereo?

    If your answer to both questions is no, then that was your first mistake. The stereo is tied into the alarm system and the ignition immobilizer - which may be the cause of your starting problem.

    The key to working on any car is proper preparation.

    If I were you, I would spend the $90 and get the full Bentley manual on CD and read the stereo replacement section thoroughly before proceeding with the stereo replacement.

  • novamikonovamiko Member Posts: 2
    thank you for your help.

    no, i dont have a manual. i bought the car used and it didnt come with on. i had never anticipated a routine stereo installation to go so wrong.

    would that be the reason why the new stereo wouldnt work? we connected all the wires and everything played and sounded fine. we unhooked the connections so we could place the slipcase and wires in the dash. when we put the stereo back in (what we thought would be the final time) it didnt work. i orginially thought maybe it was a blown fuse. (i'm hoping i dont have buy another stereo along with whatever else i'm going to need to fix this mess). it had power because the cd would eject, but no sound or any information on the faceplate. im just hoping all this is connected (and will be fairly easy & cheap to fix --- am i hoping for too much??)

    i'll be getting that full Bentley manual now. again, thanks so much for your help. i really appreciate it.
  • crosscountrycrosscountry Member Posts: 1
    My Jetta is 6 years old. It is now slow to start, even in warm weather. Does it need a new battery or could it be something else? Advice please!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    You're welcome - glad to be of service... :shades:

    When I bought the Bentley manual for my 1997 Jetta, it turned out to be the best investment I could have made. When my cruise control went out, I was able to rebuild it with the help of the manual (not an easy task, but it would have been a lot harder if I didn't buy the manual)...
  • oldskooljettaoldskooljetta Member Posts: 2
    i have a 86 jetta gti wolfsburg and i am lost at fixing it now i installed a new clutch in it and it started rite up about 5 mins after driving it i lost all spark so i but new wires,plugs,cap,rotor,ignition control module,distribiter and coil pack in and i still cant get spark the only way i get any spark is when i have a test light in the hell sender(pick up coil) in the middle wire and touch the other end to the ground but i have to keep going on and off the ground to make it spark more then once anyone ever had this problem or know what is wrong?? plz let me know this is my main sorce if transportation and i love it
  • oldskooljettaoldskooljetta Member Posts: 2
  • diyerdiyer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jetta Wolfsburg edition that began having intermittent starting problems over a year ago. If the car is left parked in the rain or cold for 8 hours or more, or if it is parked, nose up, on an incline for a long period of time, it will crank but not turn over until it's cranked for 5-10 minutes. It has also stalled a few times when driving through puddles in the rain and, again, it takes several minutes of cranking to get it started. It has been to the dealer and other mechanics 3 times and no one (they say) can duplicate the problem. We burned out the starter doing all the cranks, so that has been replaced (Bosch). We have also replaced the fuel filter, the distributor cap and rotor, and changed the oil. Nothing. We have seen similar problems posted with lots of recommendations of things to try, but no one has said if anything solved the problem. Would love to know of something that has worked before we keep spending time and money on things that don't. Help?
  • macfromnsmacfromns Member Posts: 1
    In freezing temp it will start and run for about 4 to 7 sec.and then
    stop. But as soon as the temp. goes up it starts and runs fine.I
    changed the fuel filter and put so gas line antifreeze in.there
    was no water in the filter.Thanks for any help.
  • luvthejettaluvthejetta Member Posts: 1
    I bought my beautiful 2003 Jetta wagon yesterday (!), drove it up from Denver and it wouldn't start this morning. I checked for lights on etc, no reason but the cold. Jumped it and drove a ways, then it sat for 2 hours and wouldn't start again. My old '89 Jetta started instead, first try. This is bumming me out. Anyone know if I'm wasting money buying a new battery & it might be something else?
  • mccorcoranmccorcoran Member Posts: 1
    i've owned my Jetta Wolfsburg 99' for three years...always problems w starting. Humidity, rain snow, the car just bumps and cuts out, clock switches to 12:00 and car stops. I've been towed to garage, it sits, then starts three hours later. The car has had everything replaced and still does it the garage says "it's just one of those things you live with... sorry but no...hate to say this but I'm begining the search for a new car.. VLKWGN it maybe good the drive but hate the problems...if anybody knows what the prob is please post as I am curious. :)
  • mcgyrmcgyr Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2000 Jetta which has 80,000 miles on it, and I live in San Francisco. Recently, after running errands, the car suddenly wouldn't start, and the engine light came on and stayed on. The temperature was normal, and the battery was not dead. The mechanic indicated that coolant was leaking and replaced the rear of the cylinder head, which resulted in the engine light turning off. Six weeks later, the car died while I was driving, and the engine light came on again. After being towed to a new mechanic, he found that the codes for the engine speed sensor were out of range and replaced the engine sensor. A couple days ago, the air bag light came on and stayed on, and the car seems to lack power and surges. Before going to the mechanic for the 3rd time in 2 months, can anyone tell me what might be happening and give me some advice??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you sure that you are not suffering from the dreaded "Coolant Migration Problem"?

    Your year VW is ripe for having that problem.
  • mcgyrmcgyr Member Posts: 5
    No, I'm not losing coolant any longer, and there's no corrosion around any of the hoses, so I'm perplexed.
  • taguchitaguchi Member Posts: 3
    got off work last night and found that my 97 jetta doesnt wanna start. The battery is strong and the engine is turning but no start. We had a sudden cold snap (from 10C to below freezing) overnight, so I'm wondering if something froze. That said, my gas tank is full of new gas.
    My spark plugs are about 20 months old.
    No problems with starting leading up to this.
    Any ideas out there?
  • jamie1021jamie1021 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Jetta GL just died sitting at a light today, would not turn over. I had a couple guys jump out and push, got into a parking lot, popped the clutch and it started... I'm thinking my starter may be going... But, when it started up again, the check engine light was on. Took it to the mechanic to see what that was about and they said they were getting codes for the engine speed sensor. But, he said that shouldn't have caused the dying and not starting... Anyone have any ides??
  • enkenenken Member Posts: 3
    Started last summer when weather was warm. Car started fine in morning. Wouldn't start after sitting in hot parking lot. All dashboard lights are on, electric windows works. Very faint whine when turning key. Had battery replaced -did not fix problem. Mechanic replaced starter - still did not fix problem. Ran like a top all winter. Now that the weather is warmer, problem has resurfaced. When interior temperature is cool, car starts. HELP. My mechanic said he got burned once guessing, and will not try again.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "My mechanic said he got burned once guessing, and will not try again"

    What he is really saying is.. .I already soaked you for a starter and I cannot think of anything else to sell you at this time.

    Why the heck did he "guess" in the first place... what is wrong with good-ol' TROUBLESHOOTING and to isolate what the problem is? Then FIX it!

    BTW: He did not get "burned" -- I am willing to bet he got PAIED for replacing the starter.
  • mcgyrmcgyr Member Posts: 5
    The door locks fail in the heat using the remote key, but the car still starts. Good luck, and keep us posted.
  • mcgyrmcgyr Member Posts: 5
    Sorry for the delay in replying. After the engine sensor was replaced, the car hasn't died, and it's been over 3 months now. However, shortly thereafter, the airbag light came on, so I don't know if it's an electrical sensor thing. Keep me posted.
  • badvw7badvw7 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 VW Jetta GLS TDI that will not start... It will not even turn-over. The battery is confirmed good. I believe that their is a problem in the automatic shift lock system. When I turn the ignition to the On position the "brake pedal light" (ASL light) momentarily comes on then goes off (supposed to stay on until you depress the brake pedal) and I hear a relay click in the shift console (It is an automatic transmission). The "Automatic Shift Lock" light should stay on until I press down on the brake pedal, which then allows you to shift from park into the desired gear. I can shift it freely into any gear even without pressing down the brake pedal. Also the electronic gear indicator on the dash does not indicate which gear I am in. It just flashes on and all the gear indicators remain lighted. I am not so sure that this is a brake light switch problem. The brake lights work normally when depressing the brake. The switch also ohms out normal with an ohm meter. The switch is purple in color if this means anything. Please someone help ASAP...!!!
  • oyepapi24oyepapi24 Member Posts: 2
    I own an '03 Jetta manual transmission (2.0). For some reason all electrical went off (power windows, radio, lights, clock, etc) when I attempted to start. It appeared as though I had a dead battery, but after a few seconds the lights and all came back on. I attempted to start engine, but all that occurred is that the engine seemed to go through a sequence of checking certain items... power lock on doors unlocked and other clicking/beeping noises came on, but engine did not turn. Then all electrical went off. After waiting a few minutes all electrical came back on, but the same sequence occurred when I attempted to start. Any and all suggestions welcomed!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Did you have your timing belt replaced yet? If not, i'll wager the waterpump is the problem. The impeller on the waterpump is made of plastic that will disintegrate and block the passages in the cooling system at best (which may trigger the coolant migration) or seize at worst - causing the timing belt to strip and break, introducing the possibility of a very expensive engine replacement.

    I had the timing belt changed on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T (73,000 miles) and my wife's 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T (68,000 miles) - and in both cases the waterpump was on the verge of disintegration (both pumps were replaced with the improved version with a metal impeller).

    If the timing belt/waterpump has been changed before the 80,000 mile interval, I would make sure the coolant level in the expansion tank does not exceed the full line - which is the halfway mark in the reservoir. The upper half of the reservoir needs to be empty so the coolant has sufficient room to expand. Too much coolant in the reservoir will cause the coolant to overflow out of the reservoir - another way of producing the coolant migration condition.

  • taguchitaguchi Member Posts: 3
    thru march and april here in canada, we had a few cold snaps where the tempearture dropped overnight by 10 degrees or more. My jetta didnt want to start after sitting in the cold on these nights. no problems over prior winters. no problems if I didnt leave the car too long without turning it over. battery and starter working fine. I figured out that i could get it going by letting the starter turn over a few times, then pumping the gas as i released the ignition. Ive heard a few theories from bad gasoline to clogged filter. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and air filter but the problem returned. My volkswagon mechanic is stumped and says he needs to see it in the "wont start" condition...which means waiting till it gets cold again. Anyone heard of a problem like this b4?
  • swick2007swick2007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GLX VR6 with the exact same problem. When the car is parked in a hot parking lot and the internal tempeture in the cab is hot, the car will not start. If I roll down the windows and wait for 5 to 20 minutes the car starts. When the cab is cool the car starts with no issues.

    Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it?
  • taguchitaguchi Member Posts: 3
    I figured out what was keeping my 97 jetta from starting when the temp dropped and humidity went up. It was simply water condensing in my gas tank. a few bottles of water remover has solved my problem. Hope your starting problems are as simple to solve.
  • dnyidnyi Member Posts: 1
    So, lately my car has been hard to start in the morning for the last few days. I woke up today started it and it finally kicked over after 4 tries when it did the engine revved up to 2100rpms and then came back down to 1500rpms and now it constantly revv's up and down between the 2 like a teater totter. I looked inside my engine and noticed a little white smoke was coming from the engine not much but a little. So then I get back in the car and put it into drive and the revving stops however now its idleing at 1400rpms. I need help on how to fix this hopefully in an inexpensive why please let me know what you think it might be
  • jjhoglundjjhoglund Member Posts: 1
    1997 2.0 jetta gls. aba motor.
    After starting it will run for anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes and then shut down. It will not restart for at least 5 minutes. Upon restart it might never quit again or it might quit after another period of time. It doesn't run rough or give any other symptoms that its going to quit. It just shuts down. No engine light. Looking for ideas.
  • jeffg22jeffg22 Member Posts: 2
    2002 Jetta tdi -- This car starts right up - runs 1 or two seconds then stalls. Any Ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You may get more TDI related info from the TDI-specific forums.

    However - starting then shutting off immeadiatly is often related to the immobilizer kicking in. (It thinks the car is being stolen)
  • khawkinskhawkins Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 98 Jetta GL on Saturday for my daughter to drive back and forth to school, the car has 170,000 miles on it! It is in very good shape, and seems to have been well taken care of. I have two issues that I'm dealing with, first, the car stalls. It starts fine and runs well, but stalls freqeuntly. If sitting and idleing it will idle at approx. 1000rpms, and then just shuts down after a few moments!!!! Second issue, low beam headlights won't come on! All dash lights are working, and parking lights are on, high beams will come on, no low beams. I checked the fuses, and they are fine!!!!
  • burton88burton88 Member Posts: 2
    I've had my jetta for almost 2 months now, havent had any problems until about two weeks ago when a friend noticed i needed a new serpentine belt. Well I havent gotten that fixed yet( was supposed to this weekend) and MOnday my left front blinker went out( i dont know if that has anything to do with this) but the side ones still work. This afternoon I go to start my car and it started all sluggish, taking way longer than normal. It did that twice today and I go to get in my car a third time and put the clutch in, turn the key, starts to go again and clicks and stops. Now it wont start at all, but my radio and everything is still going so I know its not my battery. I'm not too fond of cars(typical female) so I have no idea what else it could be.
  • burton88burton88 Member Posts: 2
    For a while now I'll get in my car and it will tell me to stop that my engine coolant is empty...and its drained twice in about a month not sure if that would have anything in common with this though lol
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Lets see if we can help you make the connection here.....

    1)The Serpentene belt drives the ALTERNATOR...
    2)The alternator charges the BATTERY...
    3)the battery starts the ENGINE...

    Does that help you understand?

    To fix.

    1) Charge battery fully (not a quickie 15 minuite)
    2) Replace serp. belt.

    If you have to 2.0L engine, the serp. belt takes about 37 seconds to remove and another 48 seconds to put new one on.

    To replace blinker bulb, it may take about 4 minutes.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If your engine is losing antifreeze, you may have a serious issue.

    First and formost, check the oil to make sure it is not "milky" in apearance. (antifreeze in the oil)

    After that, you need to determine if it is LEAKING or being burned off as steam out the tailpipe.

    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.

    Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).

    In addition, people have been known to flush out the G12 and put in the green stuff. Adding G12 in that situation would be just as bad as the reverse.
  • romannromann Member Posts: 1
    My 1991 jetta gli will not start. It is cranking just fine like it wants to start but with no sputtering. I can hear my fuel pump turn on. Is it a lack of fuel getting to the motor. My the way it is cold because of the snow.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I appreceate your concern about this. I believe the G12 is the replacement for the G11.

    You are correct that the folks that chose to replace ALL their antifreeze with somthing else REALLY have to be careful about what they are doing. In this situation, an unknowing mechanic may add the wrong stuff.

    Since virtually ALL of the various automakers specify HOAT antifreeze (or even pure OAT)... it is best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Intermixing the "green stuff" with any OAT is asking for trouble. To make matters worse, some automakes OAT is actually green.

    Given that the G12 has proven itself to be perhaps one of the best antifreeze elixiers on the market.... I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    Indipendant tests have shown that G12 will continue to protect the various engine metals FARRR longer than the "green stuff" which has to be replaced every couple of years to maintain the same level of protection.

    Antifreeze information

    OAT = Organic Acid Technology
    HOAT = Hybred Organic Acid Technology
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    I agree, yet it does happen.

    My understanding is G11 is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. So G12 is not compatible with it.

    My son's '97 is labeled G11, but actually has green coolant in it. I believe G11 would be blue in color. I imagine the previous owner switched just because they had coolant changed and that was what the shop they went to used.
  • sjohnson2sjohnson2 Member Posts: 4
    wonder if you ever figgured out your problem with stalling?? . have the same problem & am curious
  • glevienglevien Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2001 jetta 2.0... I thought that I got a pretty good deal on it... it has only 45,000 miles on it... Anyway the day after I bought it the check engine light came on... I didnt think to much of it at first but the next day I noticed that the idle was running kinda rough.. like it was bogging out and then trying to catch back up... The tach would go down to about 200 rpms and then shake and come back up to about 900rpms.. then is started dying while I was sitting at a stop light or something... I took it to the deal and the said that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. so 350 dollars I am back on the road thinking all is fixed.... about a week later the check engine light is on again.. I put the scanner on it and now it say its running to rich bank one.. I dont know what to think. and now its starting to run rough and stall again.. I dont want to spend thousands of dollars trying to figure out what is wrong... Any ideas please????????? I bought it for my girlfriend and all I want is a safe reliable car...PLEASE HELP ME
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).

    According to the Bentley Manual (covering 1993-1999 Golf/Jetta and 1995-2002 Cabriolets) right in front of me, VWs from early 1997 production (and on) SHOULD be used on all water-cooled VWs.

    So unless she has a VW made before 1997, any antifreeze that is used other than G12 is an invitation for costly engine problems....
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I just bought a 2001 jetta 2.0...

    Sorry to hear that...

    1999 through 2002 model Jettas have proven to be quite problematic (especially if you have an automatic transmission model).

    Other potential problems you may encounter:

    - Falling windows (due to VW''s idiotic decision to use plastic rwindow etaining clips instead of metal ones).

    - Coil pack problems due to cracking (replacement packs are very difficult to find - not to mention very expensive).

    - Excessive oil consumption with the 2.0L engines beginning with the early 1999 models (not sure if the problem was corrected by 2001). This one baffles me - considering that the 2.0L engines from 1993-1998 were fairly robust (albeit underpowered).

    - Automatic transmissions (mentioned before) - not a VW strong suit - particularly the Mexican-made units.

    If I were you, I would cut my losses and get rid of this car...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    So unless she has a VW made before 1997, any antifreeze that is used other than G12 is an invitation for costly engine problems....

    Sometime during the 1997 model year is when they switched from G11 to G12. Some 1997s came with G11, my son owns one. It says right on the resevoir to use G11.

    In any case, whatever it contained initially may no longer be in there. Some people foolishly flush out G12 and run on the cheap green stuff. If someone has done that, adding G12 would cause problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A 2001 with 45K miles - this means you should NOT HAVE PAID for that MAF sensor. That dealership should have told you about the extended MAF warantee.

    I would suggest you print out the above document and take it back to the dealersip and get a full refund of your $350 dollars.

    It really irks me that dealerships can be so blantently deceitful. The extended MAF warantee has been around since November of 2003.
  • glevienglevien Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much for letting me know that.. I was pretty upset to pay that money right away after buying a new vehicle... I will take that paper in and try to get a refund from them.. I have to take it in anyway since the check engine light is back on and is stalling out agian.. This makes me so mad... But thanks again for sharing that warranty info with me
  • randy34randy34 Member Posts: 6
    Hi everybody,

    I am going to explain my situation to see if someone can give me some direction of what to do.
    I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L GLS.
    Today I noticed that the ABS (yellow) and Brake (red) lights were blinking while I was driving. After I noticed this I drove back home, turned off the car and when I tried to open the trunk with the beeper it did not do anything. I went inside to try to open it with the button by the door and nothing. I tried to start the car and nothing. The odometer and clock started to flash and all the different symbols in the panel were flashing randomly. Also a nonstop clicking sound started.
    I thought that maybe the battery was not making good contact, cleaned the poles but nothing changed.

    I will really appreciate any advice.

  • holt74holt74 Member Posts: 2
  • ksthiebaudksthiebaud Member Posts: 7
    It sounds like the coil pack. I have a 2000 VR6 and had to have it replaced. If it is the coil pack and you don't get it fixed, your cat converter may go bad as well. I'm now shopping for a new car after spending over $500+ for the new coil pack only to find out my cat converter is shot (as well as the heater coil, water pump and various other parts). I believe there was a recall for this problem on 2001 models and newer. I have 135K on the car. :sick:
  • wrenchrashwrenchrash Member Posts: 1
    A friend of mine has a 2004 diesel Jetta (mine is a 2006 TDI) that stalled as we were leaving a parking lot on Dec 24th. It eventually re started and we managed to get a few more miles before it stalled and refused to re-start. Since it was Christmas and no one was available to fix it we left the car untouched until I was able to have a look at it on the 26th. I removed the fuel filter and drained it and found the fuel was black enough that you could not see the bottom of the container I poured the fuel into. I flushed the filter a couple of times with kerosene since I didn't have any diesel on hand. I filled the filter with kerosene and re-installed it. The car started and we were able to get it back home. I advised them to take it to the local VW mechanic and have a new filter installed after checking out the condition of the fuel remaining in the tank (which was just shy of being full). Well, they change the filter but did nothing about the tank. Tuesday of this week the car died on them again and had to be towed to the shop. This time I was there to talk to the mechanic and advised him he needed to check the condition of the fuel in the tank as well as change the filter again. Filter was changed (those suckers cost $45 Can.) and the tank wasn't touched as it was once again, near to being full. The car died again last night and I was asked to see if I could help out. I had the owner turn the engine over after I had disconnected the output hose from the filter ... no fuel came out. I re-connected that line and took the input line off; again, no flow of fuel while cranking the engine. We pushed the car to a safe place and I said I would check in today when the sun came up and it wasn't pouring rain out.

    The first thing I did was make sure everything was turned off so I could hear if the fuel pump did anything when I first turned the key to the one position. I could hear the pump activate for a few seconds then stop. It sounds like this car has a diaphragm-type pump. At least that is the sound I heard. I repeated this several times until it no longer made the noise. I then tried to turn the engine over. The engine turned over for about 10 seconds or so before it gave a kick. I tried a couple more times before it started and stayed running. Hmmm, gotta love those problems that are there one minute then gone the next!

    Once we got the car home I had a look at the "sending unit/pump assembly" in the tank. Can't tell much by looking at that! I did manage to shine a light into the tank and I don't see any obvious difficulty with the fuel.

    I am thinking there is some sort of intermittent fuel pump problem but I am not sure. I suspect those tank units are not cheap and don't want to suggest to those folks that they pay for a new one without being sure that is the cause of the problem.

    Any thoughts or directions on this problem would be appreciated.

    BTW the car has under 100,000 kilometers on it.
  • jonyjettajonyjetta Member Posts: 3
    First of all for all you novice boys and girls athat love your Hitler nitemares........Fuel pumps may be whining but that doesn't mean they are working. If you have run out of gas often you placed a twisted amt of stress on a pump that only functions in liquid(that would be gas)the act of running the pump dry kills the life of the unit and can also burn out the pulsator pump in the tank. Both of these units have to work together and can kill each other if one quits or if both are fed a diet of empty fuel tanks now and then. A bad accumulator or loose fuel pump fuse can also cause problems as do o- rings at the injector sites that might be leaking old or shrinking from age!.....All of these areas need to be addressed be fore you think of anything else!
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