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Volkswagen Jetta Starting and Stalling Issues



  • I've had my jetta for almost 2 months now, havent had any problems until about two weeks ago when a friend noticed i needed a new serpentine belt. Well I havent gotten that fixed yet( was supposed to this weekend) and MOnday my left front blinker went out( i dont know if that has anything to do with this) but the side ones still work. This afternoon I go to start my car and it started all sluggish, taking way longer than normal. It did that twice today and I go to get in my car a third time and put the clutch in, turn the key, starts to go again and clicks and stops. Now it wont start at all, but my radio and everything is still going so I know its not my battery. I'm not too fond of cars(typical female) so I have no idea what else it could be.
  • For a while now I'll get in my car and it will tell me to stop that my engine coolant is empty...and its drained twice in about a month not sure if that would have anything in common with this though lol
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Lets see if we can help you make the connection here.....

    1)The Serpentene belt drives the ALTERNATOR...
    2)The alternator charges the BATTERY...
    3)the battery starts the ENGINE...

    Does that help you understand?

    To fix.

    1) Charge battery fully (not a quickie 15 minuite)
    2) Replace serp. belt.

    If you have to 2.0L engine, the serp. belt takes about 37 seconds to remove and another 48 seconds to put new one on.

    To replace blinker bulb, it may take about 4 minutes.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If your engine is losing antifreeze, you may have a serious issue.

    First and formost, check the oil to make sure it is not "milky" in apearance. (antifreeze in the oil)

    After that, you need to determine if it is LEAKING or being burned off as steam out the tailpipe.

    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.

    Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).

    In addition, people have been known to flush out the G12 and put in the green stuff. Adding G12 in that situation would be just as bad as the reverse.
  • My 1991 jetta gli will not start. It is cranking just fine like it wants to start but with no sputtering. I can hear my fuel pump turn on. Is it a lack of fuel getting to the motor. My the way it is cold because of the snow.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I appreceate your concern about this. I believe the G12 is the replacement for the G11.

    You are correct that the folks that chose to replace ALL their antifreeze with somthing else REALLY have to be careful about what they are doing. In this situation, an unknowing mechanic may add the wrong stuff.

    Since virtually ALL of the various automakers specify HOAT antifreeze (or even pure OAT)... it is best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Intermixing the "green stuff" with any OAT is asking for trouble. To make matters worse, some automakes OAT is actually green.

    Given that the G12 has proven itself to be perhaps one of the best antifreeze elixiers on the market.... I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    Indipendant tests have shown that G12 will continue to protect the various engine metals FARRR longer than the "green stuff" which has to be replaced every couple of years to maintain the same level of protection.

    Antifreeze information

    OAT = Organic Acid Technology
    HOAT = Hybred Organic Acid Technology
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    I agree, yet it does happen.

    My understanding is G11 is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. So G12 is not compatible with it.

    My son's '97 is labeled G11, but actually has green coolant in it. I believe G11 would be blue in color. I imagine the previous owner switched just because they had coolant changed and that was what the shop they went to used.
  • wonder if you ever figgured out your problem with stalling?? . have the same problem & am curious
  • I just bought a 2001 jetta 2.0... I thought that I got a pretty good deal on it... it has only 45,000 miles on it... Anyway the day after I bought it the check engine light came on... I didnt think to much of it at first but the next day I noticed that the idle was running kinda rough.. like it was bogging out and then trying to catch back up... The tach would go down to about 200 rpms and then shake and come back up to about 900rpms.. then is started dying while I was sitting at a stop light or something... I took it to the deal and the said that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. so 350 dollars I am back on the road thinking all is fixed.... about a week later the check engine light is on again.. I put the scanner on it and now it say its running to rich bank one.. I dont know what to think. and now its starting to run rough and stall again.. I dont want to spend thousands of dollars trying to figure out what is wrong... Any ideas please????????? I bought it for my girlfriend and all I want is a safe reliable car...PLEASE HELP ME
  • Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).

    According to the Bentley Manual (covering 1993-1999 Golf/Jetta and 1995-2002 Cabriolets) right in front of me, VWs from early 1997 production (and on) SHOULD be used on all water-cooled VWs.

    So unless she has a VW made before 1997, any antifreeze that is used other than G12 is an invitation for costly engine problems....
  • I just bought a 2001 jetta 2.0...

    Sorry to hear that...

    1999 through 2002 model Jettas have proven to be quite problematic (especially if you have an automatic transmission model).

    Other potential problems you may encounter:

    - Falling windows (due to VW''s idiotic decision to use plastic rwindow etaining clips instead of metal ones).

    - Coil pack problems due to cracking (replacement packs are very difficult to find - not to mention very expensive).

    - Excessive oil consumption with the 2.0L engines beginning with the early 1999 models (not sure if the problem was corrected by 2001). This one baffles me - considering that the 2.0L engines from 1993-1998 were fairly robust (albeit underpowered).

    - Automatic transmissions (mentioned before) - not a VW strong suit - particularly the Mexican-made units.

    If I were you, I would cut my losses and get rid of this car...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    So unless she has a VW made before 1997, any antifreeze that is used other than G12 is an invitation for costly engine problems....

    Sometime during the 1997 model year is when they switched from G11 to G12. Some 1997s came with G11, my son owns one. It says right on the resevoir to use G11.

    In any case, whatever it contained initially may no longer be in there. Some people foolishly flush out G12 and run on the cheap green stuff. If someone has done that, adding G12 would cause problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A 2001 with 45K miles - this means you should NOT HAVE PAID for that MAF sensor. That dealership should have told you about the extended MAF warantee.

    I would suggest you print out the above document and take it back to the dealersip and get a full refund of your $350 dollars.

    It really irks me that dealerships can be so blantently deceitful. The extended MAF warantee has been around since November of 2003.
  • Thank you so much for letting me know that.. I was pretty upset to pay that money right away after buying a new vehicle... I will take that paper in and try to get a refund from them.. I have to take it in anyway since the check engine light is back on and is stalling out agian.. This makes me so mad... But thanks again for sharing that warranty info with me
  • Hi everybody,

    I am going to explain my situation to see if someone can give me some direction of what to do.
    I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L GLS.
    Today I noticed that the ABS (yellow) and Brake (red) lights were blinking while I was driving. After I noticed this I drove back home, turned off the car and when I tried to open the trunk with the beeper it did not do anything. I went inside to try to open it with the button by the door and nothing. I tried to start the car and nothing. The odometer and clock started to flash and all the different symbols in the panel were flashing randomly. Also a nonstop clicking sound started.
    I thought that maybe the battery was not making good contact, cleaned the poles but nothing changed.

    I will really appreciate any advice.

  • holt74holt74 Posts: 2
  • It sounds like the coil pack. I have a 2000 VR6 and had to have it replaced. If it is the coil pack and you don't get it fixed, your cat converter may go bad as well. I'm now shopping for a new car after spending over $500+ for the new coil pack only to find out my cat converter is shot (as well as the heater coil, water pump and various other parts). I believe there was a recall for this problem on 2001 models and newer. I have 135K on the car. :sick:
  • A friend of mine has a 2004 diesel Jetta (mine is a 2006 TDI) that stalled as we were leaving a parking lot on Dec 24th. It eventually re started and we managed to get a few more miles before it stalled and refused to re-start. Since it was Christmas and no one was available to fix it we left the car untouched until I was able to have a look at it on the 26th. I removed the fuel filter and drained it and found the fuel was black enough that you could not see the bottom of the container I poured the fuel into. I flushed the filter a couple of times with kerosene since I didn't have any diesel on hand. I filled the filter with kerosene and re-installed it. The car started and we were able to get it back home. I advised them to take it to the local VW mechanic and have a new filter installed after checking out the condition of the fuel remaining in the tank (which was just shy of being full). Well, they change the filter but did nothing about the tank. Tuesday of this week the car died on them again and had to be towed to the shop. This time I was there to talk to the mechanic and advised him he needed to check the condition of the fuel in the tank as well as change the filter again. Filter was changed (those suckers cost $45 Can.) and the tank wasn't touched as it was once again, near to being full. The car died again last night and I was asked to see if I could help out. I had the owner turn the engine over after I had disconnected the output hose from the filter ... no fuel came out. I re-connected that line and took the input line off; again, no flow of fuel while cranking the engine. We pushed the car to a safe place and I said I would check in today when the sun came up and it wasn't pouring rain out.

    The first thing I did was make sure everything was turned off so I could hear if the fuel pump did anything when I first turned the key to the one position. I could hear the pump activate for a few seconds then stop. It sounds like this car has a diaphragm-type pump. At least that is the sound I heard. I repeated this several times until it no longer made the noise. I then tried to turn the engine over. The engine turned over for about 10 seconds or so before it gave a kick. I tried a couple more times before it started and stayed running. Hmmm, gotta love those problems that are there one minute then gone the next!

    Once we got the car home I had a look at the "sending unit/pump assembly" in the tank. Can't tell much by looking at that! I did manage to shine a light into the tank and I don't see any obvious difficulty with the fuel.

    I am thinking there is some sort of intermittent fuel pump problem but I am not sure. I suspect those tank units are not cheap and don't want to suggest to those folks that they pay for a new one without being sure that is the cause of the problem.

    Any thoughts or directions on this problem would be appreciated.

    BTW the car has under 100,000 kilometers on it.
  • First of all for all you novice boys and girls athat love your Hitler nitemares........Fuel pumps may be whining but that doesn't mean they are working. If you have run out of gas often you placed a twisted amt of stress on a pump that only functions in liquid(that would be gas)the act of running the pump dry kills the life of the unit and can also burn out the pulsator pump in the tank. Both of these units have to work together and can kill each other if one quits or if both are fed a diet of empty fuel tanks now and then. A bad accumulator or loose fuel pump fuse can also cause problems as do o- rings at the injector sites that might be leaking old or shrinking from age!.....All of these areas need to be addressed be fore you think of anything else!
  • Check the following...Vacume lines, warm up valve, frequency valve, o-ring injectors and the actual injector,fuse box pins and the fuses, loose fuel relay, ground wire from battery, all wires to and from the coil. test the coil for function( if you have a strong steady flashing pulse on a timing gun, its good). Be sure you check the entire Digifant Electrical system from the Halls sender on the distributor to the TCI module on the fire wall of the car. It sits on top of the Brain( That would be your ECCS unit......short for electronic computer command system!
  • BE absolutely sure you prime the main chassis pump by reconnecting the harness to the pump and turning the key to the on position for 1 to 2 min. Remember you have to disconnect the harness from the main pump to relieve pressure before removing it . By priming the pump, you fill it completely before you tell it to pump gas with ignition! Every thing works with 60-80 psi or nothing works and the car won't run. This is also a system that has to have a tight vacume across all leaks or pinched hoses, do not disconnet the tach for any reason as some bone headed mechanics I've know , did that and disabled several functions that are vital for proper engine performance! These cars will throw 1 or many problems at you all at once! Keep a cool head and go step by step....then if all else fails, burn it , blow it up, pay some one to make it disappear,trade in won't work...dealers don't take VW's in trade...because they know these cars, and they don't want your problem!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    dealers don't take VW's in trade

    Give me a break with the VW hate. Somehow dealers do have used VWs for sale (I wonder where they get them) and generally are asking higher prices for them than a lot of other used cars.
  • K-so i have a 99 jetta wolfsburg edition and i love my car...i just turned 220K on the odometer and i'm starting to have some issues and i'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting. all the shops look at me like i'm retarded when i try to tell them whats wrong so maybe someone in here can tell me whats up. first of all, i am having the same issues, almost exactly as diyer (posted jan 6) as far as starting issues and driving thru puddles. it just dies when water splashes up in the motor, and just yesterday it started getting difficult to start. it will crank, but the motor wont catch. once it finally does, i have no issues till it sits for a few hours.

    the second issue is an engine stutter on hard acclerations. i don't know if its fuel injectors or sensors or air intake or what. i know for a fact my cat conv needs replaced cause it has fallen apart, but i'm not sure if that would cause those probs.

    anyone have any ideas?
  • I have had my 98 jetta gls for four years now. the entire time i have been dealing with it randomly not starting. i cant figure out if it is the heat or cold. i have been in the nw and texas. Sometimes i will hear a click sometimes not. it usually starts after twenty minutes or so but other times it wont start for days. i have replaced the ignition switch but that did not seem to help. I have tried jumping it and that doesnt work. i have tried hammering on the starter and that didnt work. Please! any suggestions would be wonderful!
  • tbirchetttbirchett Posts: 1
    i love my 2007 jetta and a few times recently it will just not start. The battery is good. today i came home from work was going to leave again to go to the dog park and it would not start. i have lights, radio, air conditioning will come on but it will not start. Tomorrow if it will not start it will be towed to the dealership. However,
    i have read similar problems in this forum. Now I have to say that after having
    the battery check I did mention to my mechanic friend that the key was really hot.
    So I am thinking this is a starter problem. Anybody have an idea???
  • moore0124moore0124 Posts: 3
    I havent felt the key when i pull it out but i will take not next time it happens. However I have discovered that when it wont start...if i hold the key all the way in the 'on' position then open and slam my door really hard it will start. The car oriented people in my family say its a bad starter that is faulty in nature. Hope it works for ya
  • packer3packer3 Posts: 277
    You proably have a short some where in the harness
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The key was really hot ????? How can that be a starter problem?
  • Have a 97 Jetta GLS that starts and runs fine in the mornings and nights when its cool, but if left in the sun past mid morning it won't start. Any idea of the probable cause for this?
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