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Volkswagen Jetta Starting and Stalling Issues



  • andrea45andrea45 Posts: 15 code is: P 2181 :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I searched for your code P2181 and found this link which may help you.
  • andrea45andrea45 Posts: 15
    Thank you! I'll let my mechanic know when I take it to a new mech next week..thx!
  • eepowereepower Posts: 3
    My 95 Jetta with a VR6 will not start. The engine turns over. Fuel is getting to the injectors. The spark is good at the plugs. It seems to want to start but won't.
    Any thought?

  • eepowereepower Posts: 3
    Is it normal for the voltage on all on the fuel injectors to be at 12 volts when the key is in the accessory position before starting the car?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive the answer is YES... +12 on all injectors is to prepare them for action. The engine computer pulls the other leg of the circuit to ground when it wants to squirt fuel.

    This is how most engine-computers work when they need to control an external load. The output signals are just pulled to ground to turn things "on".
  • i hav an 01 jetta with a 1.8t and if u rev it up slowly it is fine but if you stand on it it runs up to about 3grand and starts stuttering and what not then it just jumps to 6 im getting a random misfire code but after changing the plugs it ran fine for about a week then i got the code again and its doing the same crap ne i deas??????
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    I am new to this forum so please bear with me. My sons girlfriend bought the above vehicle from a corner lot dealership.
    i know first mistake however she is only 19 and on her own so she is doing the best she can. Had overheating problem replaced theromstat afterwards bubbling from resouvior. torn down head checked out found two cracks in turbo replaced, water pump replaced, all belts replaced. all good for test run and idling. They went to leave got about 1 block heated up again.
    found raditor clogged. My son remember he put white grease on engine to keep no rust from forming whiles waiting on parts to come in. then cleaned out raditor. when to restart car started then stalled out. will not start now. it does crank. there is also a light on dash now that is a traingle with a car inside with a key symbol under it. We are having a difficult time finding someone with volkswagen knowledge. before they started this adventure they called vw repair shop they were told 3 thousand to replace the water pump needless to say this young lady does not have that kinda of money and neither do i to lend it to her. Now we are lost as to why this will not start. any help would greatly be appreicated. I found this site while looking up information for them. I am hoping someone out there can relieve the frustration they are feeling now...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sounds like the immobolizer is keeping engine from running.

    There is a chip in the key which is "read" by the ring around ignition-switch. If this chip is not matched to the dashbaord/ECU, the engine will start but immedeatly stall out. The light on dash that is a traingle with a car inside with a key symbol under it is also an indicator of immobolizer.

    Is this the ORIGINAL key that is intended for this vehicle?

    Here is some info about immobolizer system.
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    yes it is the orginal key. Now it has been raining here for the past week could that also be a factor by what i am reading in the other people commments.

    thanks for information will keep you updated

    Again thanks
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    Hello bpeebles,
    my son thinks he has somewhat found hopefully the problem. One of the fuses #37
    was blown Its the one with the picture of a book on the diagram. put new fuse in
    that fuse blew before even trying to start the car. Figuring its a ground but don't know where to start to look. Oh by the way the little symbol disappeared. And I did find out the key she has is the only one, and the dealership never gave her the black tag or they didn't have it to give her.
  • mummerymummery Posts: 2
    it's been at the VW garage where they have now logged 15 hous of diagnostic time with no results.
    when it first occured there was a strong electical burning smell?? I would have assumed the VW tech's would have figured it out by now. with no luck I'm hoping someone out there may have come across this unique problem - thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I assume you realize that starting and then stalling is *usually* due to the immobolizer kicking in.

    If that has been ruled out... suspect that the fuel-pressure may not be stable. (after a few seconds, the pressure gets so low that the engine stalls)
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    ok update put another fuse in 25 amp that blew after trying to start. Needless to say no start. put 30 amp in car started. but she did show herself ( yes I am referring to the car as a she you will understand later) the ingnition coil on number 3 caught on fire. had to replace the wiring harness and to be on safe side replaced all the ingniton coils. Started right up. yea Car Finally left my back yard after 4 weeks of headaches.

    Oh I should have known better then to speak so soon My son came for a visit guess what is staying... yes the car. After all that work now there is oil in the antifreeze.
    does anybody have any clue what it could be now.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Oil in the antifreeze ususally means a blown head gasket (or worse).
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    thanks for the reply but even if we just change the head casket see first message that started all of this #103. Head checked out fine. checked the block everything fine. From what the machine shop told us. But he is going to tear it down again will keep everyone updated. But I can tell you I am getting ready to start using this car as a flower bed. LOL.
  • dilbertsdubdilbertsdub Posts: 16
    I'll post what I have posted in another forum at

    Hopefully you guys can help point me in a direction of what to do next as i'm lost as to what my next step(s) should be.
    I have an '06 Jetta 2.5, 5sp man, pack 1, with 45,000 miles on it. I have been having intermittant issues getting it started after the vehicle has been previously recently driven. (brought to full operating temperature).

    For example; car sits overnight, 7-9, hours in a garage. Get in to go to work, car starts just fine/normal. Car then sits for 3-4 hrs before my next attempt at starting the vehicle where the vehicle cranks but refuses to "fire-up" until it finally gives in and starts after several re-attempts at getting it started. Vehicle then starts but idles quite roughly.

    First trip: I mention to dealer progressive difficulty getting vehicle started, dealer advises they do not experience the same issues.

    Second trip: Dealer agrees to replace the battery, so now instead of fast "click, click, click" the car cranks (actual engine turn over) with much more intent but still doesn't start in the above situation.

    Third trip: Dealer advises they finally experienced and/or witnesssed the problem themselves. Dealer replaces ignition control module. I get it home, decide to go to petsmart but cannot leave as my vehicle refuses to start.

    Fourth trip: Dealer replaces the Altenator on the vehicle to no prevail.

    Fifth trip: Dealer has had vehicle all week and has put 300 miles on it and cannot replicate issue once again. Dealer takes sample of the fuel to see if possible water in the gas issue? Nothing unusual found with the fuel but dealer notes they find possible mis-fire codes and rough idle issues in the computer. Dealer acknowledges they performed my $600 40k service. Dealer also sees I have never missed any service intervals. Dealer puts in a fuel additive and checks injectors to see if dirty but they are not. And to add insult to injury Dealer employs a group of greased Monkeys to finger paint on the headliner and interior of my vehicle. Dealer makes no comment but new headliner is currently on order and I still have a vehicle that starts but only when it wants too.

    What does one do next? :sick:
  • dilbertsdubdilbertsdub Posts: 16
    And now trip number Six to the dealer; Wouldn't start again yesterday or today. Cept today is different, I now have it all on Video and have contacted VWoA, we'll wait and see what they say.
  • dilbertsdubdilbertsdub Posts: 16
    the Regional Svc Mgmr didn't call me back after 5pm today. Why isn't that surprising?

    Dealer however did call to say that they could not replicate the issue AND also stated they have not ever been able to replicate the issue?!? I inquired about the mis-fire codes and rough idle issue AND the replication of the issue that they previously advised me they too had experienced?

    Dealer's response was, "well per Carfacts we see the vehicle has been involved in an Accident and the vehicle's paint is thicker on the right passenger side door and we're not sure if that may have something to do with it."

    I am completely unaware of any prior damage other than what my purchasing dealership advised me when they repainted my front bumper and were shocked to find no primer. They mentioned possible damage at port? They re-painted front bumper and now its flaking off again at same location as before.

    I now have copies of all service records at all locations. VAG doesn't seem to be open during any hours that most people would be able to call in and not surprisingly they over promised what they can deliver as didn't get a call back from the Regional Svc Mgmr.

    I also still have the video of the car acting up and witnesses to this vehicles intermittant issues, so I know this isn't in my head.

    I don't know what to do with this car.

    Thanks for your input.
  • karrs682karrs682 Posts: 6
    update torn down again- only thing that the machine shop states is that the head gasket we got was faulty- he suggested that maybe the oil coiler- so we again are at wits end... he is getting the oil coiler this week and new head casket. If this doesn't work does anyone have any ideas other then a flower bed or blowing it up.
    sorry to express my frustration, but i am really getting pissed off the sales rep that sold this car to a 19 year old as a first car should be shot. but than again money talks, i must say i am very glad that someone took the time to set something like this up. Just for people like us. But isn't it sad that no a-days you can't even trust dealerships- to be able to give you answers if the computer doesn't give a code or what ever no one knows what to do. My son even talked to a VW dealership and was told they have no clue, that they need the codes.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is sad that "real" automobile mechanics are hard to find.

    You are right that some have no clue how to actually troubleshoot, isolate, and resolve a problem when no codes are thrown.

    Also, it sounds as if that 19-year old could have got some better "guidance" when purchasing a 1st car that is turbocharged.
    Turbocharged VW engines *NEED* to have synthetic oil and hi-octane fuel. If that engine ever had "dyno" oil run in it, it may have suffered from sludging. (oil-passagways getting plugged up).

    Also, I assume that "machine shop" checked the planarity of the head while replacing gasket?

    At least she is hopefully learning a valuable lesson about buying a car.
  • mat311mat311 Posts: 1
    Hi there, I have a 2001 Jetta and I am having the EXACT same starting problem. I can't get any answers from anyone either. I've replaced the MAF sensor and fuel filter got a tune up. Nothing.

    Let me know if you get any where with this.

    good luck
  • eepowereepower Posts: 3
    I was message 98.

    I took off the entire air intake and fuel injector system off the car and gave it a good cleaning. Put everything back together, and it started-up again.

    I'm not sure why. But it's working again.

  • thevwdudethevwdude Posts: 2
    the triangle light with a car and key symbol is the immobilizer. this should mean the key is bad or the convenience module is not recognizing it. it would need a new key or an instrument cluster(convenience module is part of it). as far as overheating goes, make sure you use g12 coolant, it's pink. green coolant will rust and clog everything. honestly, take it too the dealership. there's a lot of "VW specialists" out there that dont really know what they are doing. have a certified dealer look at it and get their opinion, they cost more, but worth it when it's fixed right. make sure your using full synthetic oil in that 1.8t or youll have a new pile of problems.
  • dimbonzdimbonz Posts: 1
    ok heres the lowdown,98 jetta 2.0 manual.more times then not will not start with the key,just a click and then once and a while it will.check voltages on old battery and new(2 days old)14 when it starts 12 when it doesnt.replaced starter with no avail.when it doesnt start it will not turn over at all,nothing but a will start everytime when pushed off,always.
  • miltakmiltak Posts: 1
    dilbertsdub did you get it figure out.I have the same issue with 05.5 jetta.Also it had some previous damage on passenger side.It will run for severla minutes after sitting and then it just shut down.I have 4 codes comming up only after it happens-theu are not there while it runs.They are fuel pump rleay circuit,both O2 sensor circuits and MAF citcuit.THe car ran fine until yesterday.When it warms up in like 305 minutes it won't start,then again it will start in like 10 minutes,but will run only for few seconds or a minute max.I am confused by it.
  • I have no damage to any part of my car; Apparently my dealer seems to think its been involved in an accident (this would be their answer to any/and or all my vehicles issues).... After they replaced the battery, fuses, ignition control module and altenator my vehicle finally starts,...however now it seems the problem is electrical as my sunroof opens and sometimes whenever it pleases.
  • my daughter called from college and said that her 99 Jetta won't start. lights come on but no crank
  • A couple weeks ago my car (w/ 125,000 miles) was indicating that a door was ajar, from the drivers door I couldn't control any of the power windows, mirrors, locks or release the fuel door. Everything else appeared to run just fine about 30- 45 minutes down the road I the car stalled, I lost all power to the ignition. After the car set on the shoulder for 10- 15 minutes it started just fine, ran for another 30- 45 minutes same thing. Sometimes it run longer, sometimes shorter, the time also varies between stall and re-start with the longest being approx. 45 minutes.

    The door problem was diagnosed as bad cables to the door control system and is now currently fixed. I was also told that one of my glow plugs was bad so they were all replaced. While running my car through the diagnostics after the aforementioned maintenance the car stalled out again.

    Has anyone encountered similar problems and if so, what was the cause?

    Thanks in advance for help you may provide.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I think I know what is going on... but lets be clear on some things.

    1) There is no "ignition" on a diesel engine - as long as fuel is injected and there is air... it will run.
    2) The glowplugs have absolutely nothing to do with running the engine. They are only used during starting the engine below about 40F degrees.

    Given the above, we can make the assumption that perhaps the supply of fuel to the engine may be a problem. It sure sounds like you are describing EXACTLY what "gelling" of the fuel would do to the engine. (Start fine - run for awhile and quit)

    I would suggest you replace the fuel-filter and make certain you have added anti-gell to the fueltank. The WHITE bottle of "Power Service" available at Walmart is a very good product to use in the winter for EVERY fillup. (about 6oz per tank full)

    I would expect that to resolve your stalling problem
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