Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair

jerrybiker

Thanks HTHs, it works great.

Thanks, Jerry

snaglepus

Your welcome.

I'm not HTH. That is an Acronym that means: "Hope that helps."

Regards, Snaglepus.

jerrybiker

Thanks for point that out (HTH). The online Shop Manual is a great help. In the past I always bought the hard copy shop manual for my other cars, but the one for the Azera is very expensive. Your information was very helpful.
Thanks again, Jerry

snaglepus

Jerry,

Thanks to you for pointing out that there is indeed a hard copy Hyundai shop manual. I did not know that? :surprise:
How is it titled and where can we find it? :confuse:

jerrybiker

The Hyundai Dealer Parts Department Mgr. told me that a hard copy shop manual was available, but it was several hundred dollars. Don't know the title, but it could be ordered from the dealership parts dept. I believe that the Parts Mgr. told me that they had to order one for their service department, a requirement by Hyundai.

The online shop manual seems easy to use and should be kept updated (current).

I tried to buy an "After Market" shop manual for the Azera, but they are not available yet.

Did you ever change the FUEL FILTER on the Azera?
It looks like its located in (under) the trunk of the car, in the Fuel Pump Assembly.

Seems to me that they could have placed the fuel filter in a more accessible location.
Jerry

jerrybiker

Anyone have experience replacing the FUEL FILTER on the Azera?
It looks like its located in (under) the trunk of the car, in the Fuel Pump Assembly.

Any helpful hints in this area?

Thanks, Jerry

garysteinweg

>>You know what...the lack of thickness of the o-rings that come with
>> the aftermarket filters could be what causes leaks since they won't
>> seal as well. Personally, I'll spend $10/filter at the dealer and know
>> I'm getting one that'll work.

You can never go wrong using parts sold by the dealer. Regarding he too-small-o-ring, it was the small one that fits onto the end of the spindle that didn't have enough cross-section. Even if it leaked, all that would happen would be that some oil would be recirculated without passing through the filter. Probably wouldn't be much of a problem.

The big o-ring that seals the cap to the housing was plenty snug. I opined in post 205 what caused the leaks with other earlier self-oil-changers. Someone even mentioned a sealing "pop" to listen/feel for. If you've got plenty of oil smeared on the big o-ring plus onto the upper inside of the filter housing, including the bevel that allows the o-ring to be squeezed into place, you shouldn't hear or feel any "pop." If it's unlubricated or under-lubricated, then you would probably get a "pop" as it goes past the narrowest part of the bevel.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

snaglepus

"The Hyundai Dealer Parts Department Mgr. told me that a hard copy shop manual was available, but it was several hundred dollars. Don't know the title, but it could be ordered from the dealership parts dept. I believe that the Parts Mgr. told me that they had to order one for their service department, a requirement by Hyundai."


Jerry,

Now you can understand why none of us have a copy! :surprise:

Besides, there really isn't any need with the online deal is there? :confuse:

101649

I haven't replaced one on the Azera, but I would assume that it is a pressure system and that can get tricky unless you are experienced...I would leave it to the shop....You shouldn't have to be replacing the fuel filter for quite some time/mileage on the Azera..Check the maintaince schedule...

jerrybiker

The Azera maint schedule calls for replacing the Fuel Filter at 35,000 miles. I have changed fuel filters in the past on my other cars. With today's high quality electrical/ignition systems, the engine failures tend to be fuel related, (eg. clogged fuel filter), not ignition system related.

Usually Fuel Filters are located in an easy place so they could be replaced as a scheduled maintenance item. On the Azera, the Fuel Filter is located under the trunk floor, as part of the Fuel Pump. It seems like a bad place to locate a fuel filter, since its not a good idea to disturb the Fuel Pump Assembly.

I am trying to find out if anyone has had the experience of replacing the Fuel Filter, and to see if they had any problems, or helpful hints. I am a retired engineer and like to do my own car maintenance. I am not ready to replace the fuel filter yet, I am just trying to plan ahead.

One never know when they get a tank of dirty fuel and clog up their Fuel Filter. A clogged Fuel Filter can stop the engine and require a tow to a garage.

Thanks, Jerry

jerrybiker

That's true. The online shop manual is great.
Thanks, Jerry

snaglepus

Jerry, I have always taken the approach that "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." :surprise:

I can only remember one time back in the early 60s when the grandmother-in-laws '58 Chevy
would not get enough fuel to the carb. to keep running due to a partially plugged fuel
filter so that if you were still applying throttle, it would cut out and quit.

Sometimes these factory maintain schedules are not realistic at all.
Most fuel today is extremely clean and filtered right at the pump as it is being dispensed.

HTHs

jerrybiker

I could not agree with you more. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

However, I believe that all filters are there to remove dirt, so they should be changed at some reasonable intervil, before they clog up. I agree that most gas is clean, but there is always that one tank fill that can be dirty. I never gas up when I see a tanker truck filling the gas station tanks. It can stir up the dirt and get into your car.

Manufacturers put filters in machines for a reason, so they can be removed along with the dirt that they captured.

I have always changed all filters in my possession, car, bike (air, oil, fuel-filters), house A/C air filters, etc.... The Azera has a lot of filters, Oil, fuel, engine air, cabin A/C air, gas tank air filter.

Thanks, for your input. Jerry

jerrybiker

I tried to change the oil filter on my Azera and had a problem. When I put the cap on the oil filter with the new O-rings, the big oil ring got pushed out when the engine started and leaked. Can anyone HEPL?
1. Does the O-Ring go to the very top of the flange on the screw on cap?
Or does it go on the last grove just above the threads?

Thanks,
Jerry

allmet33

Jerry,

The "O" ring sits in a groove above the threads, but right below the flange of the cap. If it got pushed out, it may not have been lubricated enough...just dip your fingertip in some fresh oil and run it around the "O" ring before putting the cap back on.

Good luck!

Mike

jerrybiker

I tried to change the oil filter on my Azera and had a problem. When I put the cap on the oil filter with the new O-rings, the big "O" ring got pushed out when the engine started and leaked. Can anyone HELP?
1. Does the O-Ring go to the very top of the flange on the screw on cap?
Or does it go on the last grove just above the threads?

Thanks,
Jerry

allmet33

Jerry,

Please refer to the previous posting, I answered that question.

Are you sure you screwed the cap all the way down? There should be no gap at all between the bottom of the flange and the top of the canister. To make sure it goes a little smoother, rub some fresh oil around the "O" ring before putting the cap back on.

Mike

jerrybiker

Mike, Thanks for your help. I got it on OK now and its fine. The problem I had was that it took a lot of force (more than expected) to screw the oil filter CAP down, once the "O" ring made contact with the housing. I thought that it was only supposed to be tightened by HAND. I thought I was doing something wrong. I thought that I had the "O" ring in the wrong place. But all I needed to do was to use more force to get past that point where the "O" ring makes contact, so it is compressed into the housing.

I hate to use too much force when I tightened something. But in this case, all it took was to use extra force until the "O" ring got into position. Then it threaded easier. I did coat the "O" rings with oil, before installing the cap.

I had put a white mark on the CAP and HOUSING, so I would know where it was originally.
Thanks again, your help is appreciated,
Jerry

allmet33

Jerry,

You're right, once the "O" ring engages, it does take a bit more force to tighten it down. Some folks are able to tighten it all the way down by hand, but some aren't...I'm one of them, but I've got wrench that makes it a snap. I just wrap a rag around the cap so the teeth don't tear up the plastic cap.

Glad to hear you worked it out.

Mike

jerrybiker

Thanks Mike, I am glad that I was not imagining things. I usually don't like to uses excessive force when tightening something. This is the first car that I had with this type of oil filter, so I was not sure of myself. Now that I know that it takes a little more force, I will not have that problem again.

I tried to buy that special wrench that fits the filter CAP, but the Dealer told me that it only comes in a KIT, they would not sell it to me by its self.

Thanks again Mike,
Jerry

allmet33

I truly understand what you mean, Jerry. I was nervous the first time I had to do it, so I just took it slowly and made sure I applied even pressure while tightening. The wrench I have is like this one...



With the way the filter cap is situated, I can only make small turns anyway, so that aids in making sure I take my time with it.

Here's a link to some oil filter pliers you may try, or look in some of your local automotive stores. I think I originally bought mine from AutoZone.

Oil Filter Pliers

There's a few you can choose from on this link here...

The Tool Warehouse

garysteinweg

Weighing in a little late here; it looks like you got the problem mostly under control.

>> The problem I had was that it took a lot of force (more than expected) to
>> screw the oil filter CAP down, once the "O" ring made contact with the
>> housing. I thought that it was only supposed to be tightened by HAND.

You can tighten it by hand. Yes there will be more force required once the o-ring engages the housing, but it's not that much more. More on this below.

>> all I needed to do was to use more force to get past that point where
>> the "O" ring makes contact, so it is compressed into the housing.

Yes. If you look closely, you'll see there's a bevel at the top of the housing to enable the o-ring to be eased into the housing. If there were no bevel, you'd probably sheer the o-ring getting past the edge of the housing.

>> I did coat the "O" rings with oil, before installing the cap.

Did you also coat the inside of the upper part of the housing (including the bevel) where the o-ring was going to have to slip-n-slide into it's final position? I emphasized this in my original instructions.

>> I had put a white mark on the CAP and HOUSING, so I would know
>> where it was originally.

Good man.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

jerrybiker

Thanks Mike, Those links look very useful. I never saw a tool that I did not like.
Jerry

jerrybiker

Thanks for your detailed response Gary. I did coat inside of the housing (including bevel). But I did not expect that much resistance as I tightened the cap. Now that I understand that, I will have no problem with this in the future.
Thanks,
Jerry

skm54

Thanks to your post, I just changed the oil & filter on my Azera and it was the easiest oil & filter change ever after i found where the filter actually was. I already had a Craftsman band wrench and it worked great to remove the filter cap. By the way FYI the drain plug will accept a 17mm boxend wrench.

Happy motoring....skm54

SilverBullet00

Cabin Air Filters are available as follows: WIX 24517, FRAM CF10381, PUROLATOR C35661 and OEM R22547. Lowest price is at Automotive Parts Superstore on EBAY for $8 Plus $6 S&H. Don't know how good they are but usually you get what you pay for, so let your wallet be your guide.

Larry_T

I've been living with a rattle in the rear shelf since ~6k miles. When I took the car in for an early 15k service, I told them about it. It rattles whether the radio is on or not, so it's not speaker vibration. The tech heard the rattle, but did NOTHING to try to fix it. I was told by the service writer that since I was past 12k miles, it may or may not be a warrantied repair! He said that if the part is broken, it would be covered, but if it simply needed an adjustment it would NOT be covered. HOW DO YOU ADJUST A REAR PACKAGE SHELF???

I called Hyundai USA and was told the same thing. The girl at Hyundai said they go by what the dealership says. It was almost like she was saying "wink, wink - have the tech say the piece was broken and we'll pay for it." I called the service manager and told him I'm no longer feeling so good about America's best warranty. I'm supposed to authorize them to tear the car apart not knowing what reason they'll give for the rattle - and who will pay and how much. It's an intermittent rattle, so I've been tolerating it. The service manager says they are very happy to do the work, and they don't care who pays for it, and that since customers buy cars, not Hyundai, they really want me happy and aren't so concerned about Hyundai's happiness in the matter. Service Manager Training 101?

He is going to ask the Hyundai rep to cover this no matter the cause as a gesture of good will. Anyone know where the secret adjusment screw is on the rear package shelf? Absurd.

carolinabob

Congratulations on your dealer - so far. My Azera developed a chemical odor in the trunk. Took it in and both service advisor and service manager agreed, but had to wait for District Parts & Service Manager to smell it. He came, he denied and service manager then said he could not smell it either. I could smell it from two feet away even after trunk had been open for 10 minutes. Of course, they had been discussing it before I got there for my appointment.

BTW, I have changed oil in vehicles for years, but no way I would touch an Azera. Have heard other stories about it leaking after driving some and so forth. Good for those who can do it, but this is not a simple off with old and on with new oil filter most of us are used to.

allmet33

Larry_T...not sure about some secret adjustment screw for the rear shelf, one of the culprits could have been the child seat anchor covers located in the rear deck. Sometimes those plastic covers work loose enough that they vibrate and can be rather irritation. If not those, really don't know what it could be. Good luck!

ricwhite

Azera / 25,000 miles. Brakes are not feeling as grippy as they used to be on my Azera. I had a car turn in front of me in an intersection the other day and I slammed on the brakes and moved right through the intersection until my speed lowed to about 20 mph and then the pads gripped hard. But until then, it felt almost like they were wet and ineffective. I had to swerve to avoid the car. I was not impressed. No matter how hard I press the brakes, the pads never grip hard enough to activate the ABS. When the car was new, I don't recall this problem.

. I'd like to get the pads replaced. I only have 25,000 miles on the car, so I think just the pads will due. I would like a very high quality and effective brake pad -- probably ceramic. Any recommendations? Shops? Thanks.

garysteinweg

Barring contaminated brake pads (all of them), I suspect you experienced a failure of the ABS system. Except for hard stops, do the brakes seem to work normal?

I had a 94 Olds Cutlass Ciera that acted like you describe when I needed to do a harder than normal stop one time. It caused me to bump into the back of another vehicle, but did no damage, and I was able to buy the guy off for $200. I subsequently took the car to a empty parking lot and practiced hard stops to duplicate the condition. It did not duplicate. So, I gave it no more thought.

Fast forward several months. My wife was driving the Olds on the freeway and there was an accident ahead of us. With sufficient time to stop, she braked hard, and the car started slowing as if the brakes were wet. Bottom line, Olds plowed into back of utility truck at about 10 mph and was totaled (mostly because an air-bag deployed and it wasn't worth that much even though it had only 20K miles on it).

Take the car in to the dealer NOW with your complaint clearly written on the work order. Keep it in your possession regardless of what they do. It's evidence of a mechanical failure of a safety item that was not repaired just in case they can't duplicate the problem and do nothing to fix it.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

ricwhite

Thanks for your response. The brakes under normal driving conditions work fine. No issues at all. ABS works because it was activated a lot this past winter on icy or snowy roads. Hard braking is another story. The pads just seem slippery until the car slows below a certain speed and then they grip.

Maybe the pads WERE contaminated by wheel cleaning or tire spray. I don't know. I think I need to just get some really good grippy new pads on there. All of the other brake components seem to work fine.

garysteinweg

Be careful. In my last message, I shoulda said the ABS "malfunctioned" not "failure". The ABS activated by reducing the braking pressure following the initial brake stomp, but it didn't allow the pressure to be reapplied repeatedly. It was like I had about 30% braking. Got a butt-cramp pushing on the brake peddle to no avail.

Just sayin . . . watch out.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

allmet33

Replace them with ceramic pads and you'll notice a difference. I got some Akebono ceramics from www.rockauto.com for $63/pr. for the fronts, put them on myself and brakes have been flawless, not to mention they last longer than the semi-metallic pads that are OEM.

SilverBullet00

I have found Magauto.com to be the best source to buy parts or accesssories. Just ordered the OEM floor mats and cound not find a better price anywhere. I used them when I needed OEM parts for my 300M and they beat local dealer by 20%.

cklinski

Has anybody had any problem with the "Memory Settings" with their Azera?

We just bought a used 2008 Limited and we noticed right away the memory settings weren't working correctly, specifically with moving the seat to the correct location (the side mirrors and steering wheel seems to be fine). We had it in to the dealership, got it back and the same day we got it back, my wife reset her settings and within a few minutes the elevated seat moved down, beeped at us and now only the front portion of the seat moves up and the seats don't move at all to their programed settings when selecting the Memory buttons.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

ms090870

Ok, I have one question for. Does it CLEARLY sound like a vibration and not a blown speaker? If so, then IT IS under warranty because it is the piece that the speakers are in not the speaker and that is covered under bumper to bumper. The problem is a clip that holds the shelf, plate or whatever you call it in place. It is a clip but they have to order the entire plate and replace it. This does hold your back sub woofer but is only the plate that is bad.

gamleged

Someone, somewhere, somewhen wrote that he noted (he had a newer Azera without the fully-lined trunk, so he could see up under the rear dash in the trunk) that there were a number of clips permanently attached to the metal in the trunk, under the rear dash, and that the dash was evidently "pushed down" into place to assemble it.

So I figured, "Why not?!" and got in my back seat and pressed down with some force all around the back and side edges of my "humming" rear
deck and... no more humming!... :shades:

allmet33

Well...over the weekend, I noticed my check engine light had come on. Stared at it nervously for a few seconds and ran a mental check to see if the car was acting funny in anyway. It ran smoothly, no rough idle, no hesitation when accelerating, no hiccuping when decelerating, it wasn't overheating or anything else. I pulled into a gas station, pumped gas (which was needed) and made sure the gas cap was put back on tightly...light still came on. So...today, with just a hair over 75k miles on it, I dropped it off at the dealer and waiting to hear what the issue (if any) was.

stan28

Under the passenger side there is a plastic skid plate that protects the fuel line.
It came loose and dragged along the highway. Sounded like I blew a tire.
Took it in and they have an updated replacement part. Apparently this is a
defective design part. Also had a recall on a stoplight switch assy that they fixed.

jerrybiker

I have an Azera 2008, I am having trouble changing the Air Filter in the cabin (inside the glove box). I followed the owner's manual instructions, but I can't get the Glove Box to come down all the way.

The Manual says to push the sides of the Glove Box inward to release it. But when I push the sides inward, the glove box does not come down. I did not want to push the sides in too hard, for fear of breaking it.

Can anyone help?
Thanks
Jerry

101649

Jerry

Unhook the tether on the side of the glove box..Next push in the sides of the glovebox WHILE pulling down on the box..it should just drop down...The replacement filter is somewhat expensive...go to WallyWorld and get a disposable A/C filter and cut it to fit....

jerrybiker

Thanks, I tried it and it worked. When I tried it before, following the directions in the owner's manual, the glove box would not come down easily. I did not want to force it. But this time I applied more force and was able to get access to the filter. I had a new Azera filter and replaced it. Thanks for the tip about the replacement filter, the Hyundai ones are expensive.
Thanks,
Jerry

notsofast2

We have been having the same problem. Steering wheel and mirrors are fine, but there is no response with the seat. In fact, while driving the seat moves all around, without any prodding, to the extent it is almost impossible to drive. Have you had any luck fixing it? Was the dealer of any help?

Thanks. John

carolinabob

Step 1. take it to ONE dealer. If he cannot find problem or disavows it, tell Service Manager you want an appointment with the Hyundai District Parts & Service Manager. While waiting for that you can take it to another dealer if you wish and one is available.
Step 2. call Hyundai Customer Care call center and open a case and record the case number and name of person to whom you spoke.
Step 3. If DPSM says operating within specs, as designed, no problem found, etc., go to your owners manuals and find the one on Alternate Dispute Resolution, It contains instructions for each state. DO IT!!!
If you wish, you may begin Lemon Law at this time, but some states require ADR before Lemon Law suits.
Don't waste time.

jski127

Go to Auto Zone, or similar place tell them you need to buy a 32 MM socket 3/8 drive to change your oil filter. It's about $8.00. This is what most Oil change places use. To get at the filter, it is located at the Drivers side front of the engine, you will have to take off the black plastic cover to get to the filter. You will need 2 3" extensions or a 6" single extension to get the socket onto the filter. The 32 MM socket fits onto the top of the filter cartridge. Once you break it loose you can unscrew it by hand. If you take your car to get it changed at a lube & Oil shop make sure they put the large "O" ring the base of the filter cartridge on. If not you'll have oil running onto you engine block. It takes about 15 min to do an oil change and 6 qts.of oil.

rhduke00

Actually, according to my 2007 Azera's owner's manual page 9-4, the Azerra takes 5.49 US quarts. However, I've always only needed 5.25 quarts to fill it up.

parrotsquawk

Being a dual left-handed klutz with the skills of a neanderthal, could someone make a video of the process of changing the oil on the Azera (I have a 2009) so I can see what I can't do?

garysteinweg

>> Being a dual left-handed klutz with the skills of a neanderthal, could someone
>> make a video of the process of changing the oil on the Azera (I have a 2009)
>> so I can see what I can't do?

Go back and read post 205. It will answer all your questions, including some you wouldn't think to ask.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

parrotsquawk

The questions are answered there for sure but as I stated I need visuals. I am pretty much brain dead when it comes to these kinds of things. As my car is brand new, I have time to wait for one of you (including luckless Charger/Padres fans :sick: ) to post up a home-brewed movie of the process to youtube or some other forum.