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Comments
I can understand the dealer giving a low price on an oil change to lure in customers,but adding over $50.00 as a surcharge for full synthetic is ludicrous for a 5 quart change, as a case of 6 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic can be purchased at most discount stores at under 30 bucks.
Not sure if it's a national price, I'm sure different areas will post different prices.
If your dealership charges $110 for an oil change, my advice is to quickly find another dealership.
Are you sure that the $110 is not for a maintainence package that includes many other "suggested" procedures such as air filters, fluid exchange etc.?
For an oil change they charge me $35.95 and the last 2 they charged me $29.95.
I guess I'm getting a good deal.
Rich in FL. :shades:
Have you started the upgrades to your sound system yet?
They want $200 for a tranny oil change. Heck these tranny's don't even have a filter or pan to remove, just a drain plug and maybe a small screen! Having worked at a tranny shop back in high school, I'll go back & do it myself, & buy the Hyundai fluid from the parts area.
While the folks at the service department are really nice, their prices have me thinking on calling another Hyundai dealer. As for oil changes, I'll buy the 10 pack of Hyundai filters for $88 as well as the crush rings and do my own from now on.
Don't think these trannies are as simple as the ones you worked on back in shop class! LOL AAMCO down in this area has a special going on where you pay $99 to get your tranny power flushed and filled and then after that, you get annual flush-n-fils at no charge. I'm leery about going to someone other than the dealer after Goodyear put the wrong tranny fluid in my '02 Sonata one time.
My sub requires 2.5 cubic feet enclosure. I cannot afford to loose that much space in the trunk so I've decided to take out the Spare tire and they're building me a nice enclosure to put my sub in there.
I look forward to seeing and hearing the results.
They're doing all that for 6 bills. (Wood, fiberglass, wiring and all installation)
It'll be ready Friday night (July 13th)
Regards,
washingtonm@sec.gov
No leaks detected after driving 50 miles of mostly stop and go.
You might be able to get away with that here and there, but there's no telling when and how the O-rings my wear. Personally, I err on the side of caution and replace them as well. Afterall...they were paid for with the filter. Besides, you would hate to take your car in for an engine issue and when they check it and notice there's too much wear on the O-rings for one oil change...they won't cover the work under warranty because of something that simple. It's something that only takes a few more seconds to take care of. I take an X-acto knife and cut the old ones and pull them out and put the new ones on...no fuss, no muss.
Why would you not change the "O" rings?
They come with the filter, and take but a few seconds to change.
I agree completely, unless one drives in extremely unusual conditions.
Synthetic oil can produce improved gas milage.
I've been using Mobil 1 since it first became available. I have run many many oil analysis on various cars.
No matter how long time-wise I have gone between changes, I have never had any
reports come back that stated that there were any problems with my old oil.
This included one lengthy time where Mobil 1 remained in my 2000 Kona Focus for over three years.
When Mobil 1 was first introduced, they used to advertise to change it once a year or at 25K miles.
I have proven to myself that their time limitation is meaningless.
I've gone past 15K miles on the Ford, and Blackstone said I could try even further.
Should you doubt me, simply try a simple oil analysis and prove it to yourself.
Of course, your mileage may vary . . .
Personally...7K - 10K miles on synthetic is probaby possible. I just hate that rough idle that comes along due to dirty oil around the 4500 - 5000 mile mark. I've also noticed when the oil is fresh and clean, start up is quicker and smoother as well.
I too have had oil analysis performed and also have shown no detererioration of oil or excessive engine metal wear after many hard hours of running. I have never had the need to add oil between changes, unless of an oil leak due to a poor connection. The oil does not evaporate or cook away.
Check with some commercial fleets to determine their oil change policies.
Why would he change the filter at 3500 miles?
If believes in 25K for the oil, one would think he is way too conservative with respect to the filter.
Maybe I'll up the mileage on my oil and just do a filter replacement instead. I'm thinking...maybe changing the oil every 10K miles and change the filter every 5K miles.
Outsdie of the Azera being a great car & great value, the warranty was a very attracive feature on my bying decision. As such, I'm keeping every receipt for Mobil 1, and Hyundai filters along with an excel spreadsheet of all work done on the car by me, the dealer and any other shop. My hope is that I never need to call Hyundai for a big warranty repair, but if I do I'll be loaded for bear with documentation showing my car is very well taken care of.
I keep all my receipts as well. So far, I've been buying my filters from my dealer...so thost transactions are on record as well. It also helps to build a repoire with the service folks. When they get to know that you really do take good care of your car, they tend to look out for you even more.
Personally...7K - 10K miles on synthetic is probaby possible. I just hate that rough idle that comes along due to dirty oil around the 4500 - 5000 mile mark. I've also noticed when the oil is fresh and clean, start up is quicker and smoother as well."
What do you mean "probaby (sic) possible"'?
Get real there young man!
only driven a total of 2,399 miles over a three and one half year period, would you expect any car to need additional oil?
The car is now more than seven years old with less than 40K miles and recently I had it changed but with over
15,400 miles on Mobil 1, and during that run of only nine months, I added only one-half (1/2) of one quart.
Further "that rough idle that comes along due to dirty oil around the 4500 - 5000 mile mark." What are you talking about?
My Focus idled the same before the oil was changed as it did right after the change to fresh oil.
Hyundai recommends 7,500 miles on regular non-synthetic oil. Why on earth would anyone
change their oil sooner than that especially if they were using a good full synthetic oil?
"start up is quicker and smoother as well." Get real again.
It make no difference in starting quickly or being smoother whether any oil is new or old as long
as it meets the proper original specs. If you think differently, it's all in your imagination!
I know because every time I have changed the oil in that Focus, the oil I had drained
was still within specs. I know that because I had that drained oil analyzed.
Get yea over to 'Freds' or 'Bob Is The Oil Guy' (www.bobistheoilguy.com) and read all about oil.
17k members can't be wrong. These people know what they are talking about. Read and learn!
I'm not doubting the life of synthetic oils. Not being a chemical engineer, I can't tell anyone what can or can't be done while using a synthetic oil. However, based on what I've read in postings as well as reading in magazines and such...I see it has being possible. The big question behind all that is are the auto manufacturers willing to buy into it and change their oil changing standards?
Okay...I'm not going to argue with you about what you experienced in your focus. I'm telling you what I have experienced in my last 3 cars. With fresh clean oil in the engine, the car idles smoother and start up is much quicker than with dirty oil. Get off your soap box and stop thinking that your experiences with YOUR cars can tell you that everyone else should have the same.
What I have found (with MY cars) is that there is a difference in how the engine idles with clean oil vs. dirty oil. There is also a difference at start up...with fresh oil, it's quicker and with dirty oil...not as quick. Those are FACTS as experienced with everyday living with MY vehicles. No...it's not my imagination at all, my wife notices the very same thing...without me pointing it out to her. Maybe in your older age, you notice less than you used to. Older doesn't always equate to wiser.
In my '96 Camry I was using Castrol GTX and changing every 3000 miles. In my '02 Sonata, I was using Castrol Syntec Blend and changing every 3000-4000 miles. In my Azera, I'm using Castrol Syntec and I change it between 3500-5000 miles. I can tell you that almost on cue around the 3000-3500 mile mark...the engine idles a bit rougher than when I first changed the oil.
I pay very close attention to my vehicles after learning that preventive maintenance can save you a whole lot of money. A lesson learned after my first 3 cars in life. This in no way is saying to you that you don't know what you're talking about, but what I am saying is you don't know what is going on because you're not driving MY vehicles to tell me what I'm experiencing.
I'm not sure which Hyundai recommends 7500 miles on synthetic oil, but if it's corporate...they haven't passed that word down to their service departments. Then again, if they did then there would be less oil changes and that means less money being spent. So, service departments will still be telling customers to change their oil at every 3000 miles as always.
Okay...let me ask you something since you're just soooooooooooooo darned smart. If dirty oil doesn't affect how an engine runs and even when dirty, it's still within "spec"...then why would you even bother to change the oil to begin with??? By the way, what does oil being within specs mean anyway; that the oil can still lubricate effectively? Does the analysis tell you that you should put that oil back in your car and drive on it some more? I doubt it highly. Does it tell you specifically that your engine should be running just a smoothly as it did when you first put the oil in the car to begin with? I doubt that as well.
The oil filter is conviently located on the left side of the top side of the
engine just under that cover that must be removed to access it.
Takes a 10mm socket with a short extension to remove the four nuts and two bolts.
Easy to do; No problemo!
Use the Proline from Pep Boys ($5.99) or the Purolator 35610 filter which by the way are identical
except for the price. The Purolator is almost twice as expensive, and it is exactly the same filter.
Compare them side by side and you'll see what I mean!
Carry on.
The filter case was mostly empty, however had they not been as careful as they were when they removed the
old filter cartridge, they would have spilled dirty oil all over the left side of the engine including the value cover.
Your dealership 'grease monkey' was extremely careless and didn't properly remove the old cartridge from the
filter case to a correctly placed container, or he didn't install or properly tighten the top "O" ring gasket.
I don't believe that all-of-sudden your value cover gasket sprung a leak, do you?
Now you understand why so many owners choose to change their own oil.
Your most welcome. If I didn't have Mr. T at the local gas station garage who
always does such a good job, I'd be doing my own even at the age of 71.
But for the paltry sum of only $10, I cannot afford to get my hands dirty, don't you know?
As I supply my own Mobil 1 and filter, the change costs me only $45. Can't beat that!
Check with your local WalMart.
If they have the filter, I believe that they charge about $35.00 for a Mobil 1 oil change.
WalMart has now bumped their price on a Mobil 1 oil change to $46.97 including filter.
I say this because I had this issue when I did my first oil change. I thought I had tightened the cap all the way down, but when I looked again, I was able to fit a finger nail between the lip of the cap and rim of the cannister. Got the wrench, tightened it till the gap disappeared and no problem since.
Good luck!
I think derrelhgreen's advice about the "o" ring and not tightening down the filter cap is where the problem is at. It's very possible that the "tech" took the old "o" ring off and didn't replace it with a new one or just simply didn't tighten the cap down completely.