ratledge - is the Pennzoil a synthetic and how much are you paying per quart? Not married to the Mobil 1 as I am only letting the car go 5K miles between oil changes but it does have an awesome reputation and I have used it exclusively for the past 10+ years.
PP (a full synthetic - there seems to have developed an unofficial color coding convention with most full synthetics now coming in silvery colored plastic bottles) seems to be returning consistently lower iron contaminant readings than M1 in used oil analyses at BobIsTheOilGuy. Iron correlates to cylinder wall wear* - the lower the better, though I expect either oil would return 300,000+ miles in a well maintained engine. The fact that PP is priced lower goes down well - especially when there're also rebates involved.
(After Pennzoil sucessfully fought off a takeover attempt by Texaco - and garnered a multi-million dollar judgment against Texaco, Pennzoil bought rival Quaker State. What Pennzoil hadn't counted on was the amount of prior debt Quaker State was carrying. Ultimately Pennzoil was the target of another takeover attempt - this time, successfully by Shell Oil, U.S. So what any of you have been finding on shelves labled Pennzoil or Quaker State for the past several years is really a SOPUS product. In the quality hierarchy of SOPUS, "Pennzoil" is considered SOPUS' premium brand, followed by "Quaker State", with "Formula Shell" the company's entry-level, but fully API/ILSAC certified line.
Oh, and that recommendation in your Azera owner's manuals to use Quaker State oil? Money changed hands, pure and simple. (Hyundai doesn't even use Quaker State at its U.S. and Korean factories. Hyundai contracts with Nippon Oil for bulk motor oil delivered to its Korean plants. In the U.S. Nippon Oil has a blending facility in Alabama that serves Honda, Toyota, and Hyundai U.S. factories. Nippon Oil just introduced a line of premium synthetic motor oils to be distributed under the "Eneos" name.) If you have a favorite brand, continue with it. If you don't, shop on the basis of recommended viscosity and the latest API certification category: "SM" - that's really what counts. The next API certification category, "SN" will probably hit the shelves in about two and a half more years.
*at least in cast iron and iron sleeved aluminum engines. In aluminum-silicon blocks and alloy blocks with aluminum-silicon liners all bets are off.
Interesting information and very educational. I saw that Pennzoil and Quaker State were a part of SOPUS in all of the ads I see in my car and truck magazines so that part I was aware of.
I will have to check next oil change (which will be in about 1.5 months as I am putting about 3K a month on my car) for the PP and see what the cost is and if there are any rebates.
Cableguy06 - The Azera takes 6 qts....that much is correct. The service tech manager at Alexandria Hyundai said himself that the Sonata's 3.3 L V-6 only takes 5 qts. for an oil change.
I own an Azera and I put 6 qts. in mine as well. So...when it comes to research, I did my due diligence. :shades:
If that is true, then why do they ALL require different amounts of oil??? If engine displacement has nothing to do with the amount of oil required, then why not make all cars use a standard amount???
I don't understand why you are so intent on arguing about how much oil goes into a Sonata versus an Azera :confuse:
I have had two oil changes now and, each time, the car used about all of my supplied 6 quarts. My "bad" for not providing you with an EXACT amount out to the proper decimal point
Just for giggles, I went out to my car to check the OWNERS manual as it states 5.5 quarts when changing the oil and filter. If your dealer in VA is only putting in 5 quarts as you say, he is putting peoples engines at risk by not properly filling to car to the recommended oil level.
I do not plan on replying to you regarding this thread anymore since I have now proven, unequivocally, both you and your dealer incorrect on this subject.
Confusing - but apparently Hyundai corporate's confused, too. The Azera and Sonata shop manuals both state that a full motor oil fill consists of 6 liters (6.34 U.S. qts.) for either car's V6 engine. Does this amount differ from what's printed in the Azera and Sonata owner's manual specifications' section?
ray_h1 - my owners manual states 5.5 quarts of oil. My dealership typically uses almost all of my supplied 6 quarts. When I asked them why, they stated that the Sonata takes 6 quarts.
I will have to let someone that owns an Azera speak to what's listed in their owners manual.
Interesting dump_truck. Our manuals must be different revision numbers as mine states 5.5 US quarts. How about checking your manual for the version as it will be interesting to see if your book is newer than mine.
As I stated above, my dealer stated that the car does take 6 quarts.
you can usually pick up the pennzoil platinum for around $2 a quart. for the last 2 months pep boys has had it for 1.97 a quart after $15 rebate. And currently advanced auto parts has it BOGO, which is only a slightly more expensive deal...maybe $2.40 a quart or something like that. I've been using 5w-20 so far since that is what the manual states as optimal, but I've been curious about trying 5w-30 to see if i would notice any difference, or if it's any better.
Thanks for the additional insight. I have been paying $4.97/qt for the Mobil 1 and will have to try the Pennzoil.
I cannot imagine that there will be much difference, especially anything noticeable, going from 5W20 to 5W30. Before I bought my Hyundai, I was unaware of any manufacturer specifying anything other that 5W30 as I have used 5W30 for the past 25+ years.
i think i have found where the confusion is coming from. the owners manual for the 2007 is just difficult to understand. it appears 5.5 quarts is correct if you DO NOT change the oil filter also. if you ARE changing the oil filter, then 6.2 quarts is the correct amount. it is printed in a much more user friendly manual in both the 2006 owners manual, as well as the shop manual on the hmaservice.com site.
Thanks in advance for all you fellow do-it-yourselfers and your hints about this process. And, no disrespect, but those of you that have your dealer do the change, this item isn't for you.
I changed oil this morning, checked, could find not leaks, put the shroud back and everything was fine. Took a short errand trip this afternoon and smelled burning oil. When I got home, saw a stream flowing over the top of the transmission housing and onto the driveway. Got an extra filter, changed the filter and made sure the gaskets were installed. Still it leaked.
Took the filter housing cap off and moved the gasket down onto what looks like the threads about one or two grooves from the top. Tightened it again, had to use a channelox to get it to tighten, and heard the infamous "pop" as the gasket seated. No more leaks!
The HMA online Shop manual has poor instructions, I guess you just have to know these things.
Any way, back on the road.....no to clean up those oil drip stains!
Glad you got this reolved. I used to be religious about changing my own oil too. However, when the dealer charges you $17 (when you supply your own oil as I do with Synthetic) to perform an oil change, I can no longer justify the time it takes to do it myself and find $17 extremely reasonable.
In addition, I like the fact that for warranty reasons, all of my service information is in the Hyundai computer sustem so there should never be an issue as to when and how often I change my oil.
Where are you guys purchasing the oil filters? My dealer is charging me $10.56. Also, do I need anything else such as extra gasket or does the oil filter already include everything needed? Lastly, which oil should I use if given the choice: PENNZOIL Platinum Synthetic Motor or Quaker State Q Advanced full synthetic and do I need exactly 6 quarts or a little bit more than that?
If you do a search on line, I have found the filters for as little as $8. They come with the replacement gaskets in the box.
I would recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic or great things have also been said about Pennzoil Platinum. My understanding is that you will need exactly 6 quarts.
i believe the azera and the sonata take the same oil filter. the filter comes w/ 2 new o-rings that need replaced. the only other thing besides the oil is a new crush ring for the drain plug. hyundaiparts.net sells the filters individually, or in cases of 10. the also have the crush rings for a little extra...i think it was like .70 a piece. the oil filters there go for $6.80, the case of 10 is 68.80. shipping for 10 oil filters and 10 crush rings was $10, still atleast $1 cheaper per filter than any local dealer.
there is also a dealership in indianapolis, i'll have to check the name but i think it's bob rohrman or something like that..i think the parts manager said he was willing to go 6.50 plus shipping, but couldn't ship the crush rings for some reason.
as far as the process goes, both the 2 o-rings and the crush ring for the drain plug should be changed everytime.
I never stated that the $8 was for an individual piece. To get these kinds of pricing, you better be prepared to buy a case lot. As dump_truck stated above (and I forgot all about that guy in Indy), he will sell them to forum members cheaper than anyone and was an absolute pleasure to deal with.
If they are, indeed, $6.50, than there's your best price. The place is Bob Rohrman's Indy Suzuki. Ask for the parts manager (sorry I can't remember his name but he helped me out with a few parts for my Sonata when I first bought it).
I was just quoted $6.80 for the oil filter and $1.85 for the crush gasket :surprise: at a local KIA dealer + tax = $9.15. If only another dealer would throw in the gasket for free... I'll try with another dealer. Just wanted to share this with you guys. Same part #'s (filter: 26320-3C100 & gasket: 21513-21000), only difference: comes in a KIA box.
Also, I just bought 6 qts. of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 full synthetic at Advanced Auto Parts for $18.39 tax included. Unfortunately, this buy-one-get-one-free offer will expire today I believe.
My car has 1700 miles, is it too soon to change the oil? What would you recommend?
I would go 3K on the factory oil and then change it. That's what I did. After you switch over to synthetic, you can easily go 5K between oil changes with no problem.
)) "I like the fact that for warranty reasons, all of my service information is in the Hyundai computer sustem so there should never be an issue as to when and how often I change my oil." ((
I'm not singling you out so much as taking advantage of a point you just brought up. Under the Magnuson-Moss consumer portection act of 1965, requiring or even hinting that dealership servicing is required to maintain warranty rights is illegal under U.S. federal law. (Since legal, voting entitled residents of the contiguous lower 48, Hawaii, and Alaska are subject to other federal statutes, I betcha they're covered under Magnuson-Moss, too.) Warranty claim rights are not forfeit for car owners who prefer to do their own maintenance. All that's necessary is to keep receipts for materials (oil, filters, spark plugs, etc.) and maintain a brief, handwritten log explaining what was done and when as evidence. The automaker or its agent (dealership) has the right to inspect the log and receipts on demand in the event of a question, but unless fraud is suspected, those documents are considered adequate. If fraud is suspected, suspicion alone is insufficient to deny a warranty claim, and the burden of proof is squarely on the automaker to provide irrefutable proof of a fraudulent claim, not on the car owner to establish his/her innocence.
For what it's worth, my '03 Sonata is still on its original oil pan plug crush washer. So far everything is bone dry whenever I go to change oil. The same was always true over the six and a half years I owned my previous '96 Accord. (Maybe the oil-change gods just smile on me, but I don't think so.)
Great point ray! I only brought up the fact of the services being recorded in Hyundai's computer system because there are many of us out there that don't do the best job of recording and tracking service activity. I certainly did not intend to imply that by not going to the dealer you will lose warranty claim rights.
I am very familiar with the M-M act as, when I was younger, I used to do a lot of mods to my vehicles and did all of my own maintenance too and this was always a topic of conversation on the earlier boards.
Guess I'm just getting to old to get under my car these days and feel that $17 is more than worth it to let someone else get dirty and deal with my oil plug
If they could only figure out a way to put the drain plug on TOP of the engine as they did with the filter, I may reconsider
For my new 2006 Azera Limited, I asked the service guy how often they would rotate the tires and he said every other oil change... pause... every 7,500 miles. Meaning that they would like to see me come in for an oil/filter change at the "severe usage" interval.
Which I prolly will do anyway, having done that from the start with my '90 Accord (with 245,000 miles) which still needs no oil added between changes. I wasn't so kind to my '77 Accord and put a new engine in at 168,000 miles. I also suspect the cheap Agip oil I used for two years in Italy didn't help...
Hello, could someone please tell me which is right for an oil change. Do you change the oil after reaching the required mileage or do you change your oil every three months as told by some? My 06 Azera has only 1200 miles on it and I have had it for over 4 months. Should I change the oil or wait until it reaches the required 3000 + first oil change. Suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks for the Look. JoeD
Mileage is always the best one to follow. However, if your car does a lot of sitting for long periods without running, that's just as bad. At least that's the case with conventional oils. I'm not sure how synthetic oils do after sitting for long periods.
So...if you have driven it pretty regularly and only have 1200 miles on it, I would wait until you get to the 3,000-3,500 mile mark.
I have never (never!!!!!!!!) changed my oil more frequently than once every 7500 miles. I have followed this schedule for every car that I have ever owned. I have never had any engine trouble, and I have never had any mechanic question this strategy. Indeed, when I sold my Honda CRX the mechanic chosen by the prospective buyer said, "The car is in great shape and the maintenance is obviously being performed regularly." it had been 7,000 miles since I had last changed the oil when that statement was made.
My cars have been based in Phoenix, Tucson, and San Diego. The first two cities are obviously extremely hot for much of the year. In all of the cities there is a great deal of stop and go driving due to freeway traffic and way too many traffic lights. Again, I change my oil every 7500 miles.
Finally, I have never (never!!!!!!!!!!!) used synthetic oil.
Changing your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles benefits the mechanic and the oil company - it doesn't benefit you.
No offense Sundevils...synthetic oil is what comes in the Azera from the factory. I've NEVER heard of any one pushing 7,500 miles on conventional oil until you stated as such. Personally...there isn't a conventional oil I would trust past maybe 4,000 miles.
So...if a car comes with synthetic oil and synthetic oil is recommended in the owner's manual...you mean to tell me you wouldn't use synthetic oil??? One thing I can tell you...if your engine did manage to fail, within the warranty period, for some reason and they found out you were using a conventional oil. I'm pretty sure they probably wouldn't have to honor it under warranty as you're not using what is recommended by the manufacturer.
Jnd17...there have been plenty of posts within this forum discussing the oil change intervals using synthetic oil. The 7,500 mile figure has been thrown around a few times, but everyone seems to feel more comfortable with 3,500-4,500. The owner's manual gives you a recommendation and the service department at your dealer can give you a recommendation as well. My opinion is to go with what you feel comfortable with.
With the advantages of synthetic over conventional, I've almost NEVER heard of anyone switching down to conventional if their car came with a synthetic. Quite absurd if you ask me. However...Sundevils, more power to ya!
Allmet, I just used Mobil 1 Synthetic this past weekend to change at 3200 miles, it was going on 6 months since purchase.
Also living in AZ and dealing with the desert heat, I used the 5W-30 version. (5w-20 is also harder to find.)
I have used synthetics in most cars for a number of years. In cold climates, the major advantage is free flowing at extreme cold temperatures, so the oil can protect metal parts at startup. When I lived in Minneapolis, and my car sat out at the airport for the week when I traveled, I knew it would turn over and start with synthetic oil.
In the heat and stop/go driving of Phoenix, the protection needs are at the other end of the heat spectrum.
When you compare at Wally-mart, a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX runs about $10; 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum (full synthetic) is $18; Mobil 1 is $25. For the added few bucks, I'd rather have the synthetic
Wamba2000...I feel you completely! I run the Castrol Syntec (full synthetic) in my Azera. I use the 5W-30 as well...like you said, 5W-20 is a bit harder to find.
I live in the DC area so we have the best of both worlds when it comes to weather...summers get rather hot (combinded with extremem humidity)averaging in the 90's (topping 100 here and there) and in the winter we get freezing temps (nothing close to Minneapolis).
Like you...I prefer to pay the few extra bucks for the added protection that synthetic offers. I usually change my oil between 3,500-4,500 miles, but knowing I can actually go a little further is a bonus.
It's no wonder that the oil companies are showing the profits that they do. Someone has brain washed you to believe that the oil in your car goes stale after a period of time. It does not. If the car is run for very short periods of time, the oil might not heat enough to evaporate the water that has condensed as a normal process between cold to hot to cold fluids. After a long period of time, especially on older more worn engines, the emissions might produce a higher acid level in the oil. This will not happen in 3 months. The sae. weight of the oil determines the flow rate of the oil. The flow rate of synthetic is the same as conventional at the same temperature. Check with some commercial vehicle users such as trucking companies, car rental companies, police departments etc. and determine what interval they use for oil changes. After doing some studies about oil for hard run engines, I made the decision to switch to synthetic for its' greater lubricating characteristics under stress conditions, such as an engine being run at 90% of top end for prolonged periods. If it makes you feel secure, go for the frequent changes, but it is not necessary.
No offense taken Ray_h1...let's see, I've been told by 3 different service departments at 3 different Hyundai dealers in the area, I've also been told by the regional Hyundai Corp. rep when I talked to him about a paint issue I had. Considering it came from 4 different sources and one being corporate...I'd have to say that it's pretty solid info.
Reason being is that the newer engines being built today have tigther tolerances between gearing and other friction parts. Say what you want, I'm not making this up, this is what was shared with me.
To allmet33 ... please provide me with a page number reference in the 2006 Azera owners manual that indicates "and synthetic oil is recommended in the owner's manual".
My dealership (North County Hyundai in Carlsbad, CA) is not using synthetic oil in the Azera oil changes. You can get it as an upsell, of course.
)) "...I've been told by 3 different service departments at 3 different Hyundai dealers in the area, I've also been told by the regional Hyundai Corp. rep..." ((
Thanks for respondng. I don't doubt you're relating what you were told, and it may be true. I'm just perplexed why Hyundai hasn't listed such a preference in their owner's manuals and shop manuals if the use of full synthetic motor oil is the company's intent for their engines. I have a feeling the service managers are getting third-hand information from regional reps, who themselves are well down in the pecking order from engineering. To expand as briefly as I dare, modern motor oil base oils are further refined from what comes out of the distillate tower by a complex heat/pressure/catalytic procedure called "hydro-isomerization", aka "hydrocracking" and "hydrotreating" (an outgrowth of German synthetic lube and fuel production during WW-II) in which undesirable molecules such as waxes and solvent-like aromatics are not merely filtered or boiled off, but converted to desirable carbon chain-length alkane lube molecules. When performed long enough, the result is a product that is a form of synthetic base stock, "Group III" - and most base oils used in full synthetic motor oils are created this way now. When hydrocracking isn't allowed to proceed to its full termination point, the result, "Group II" (and Group II+ - just shy of Group III), is still a remarkably stable lubricant. The point is that, once additized, and ALL motor oils require various additives to enhance their performance, the functional differences between full synthetic and conventional motor oils are a matter of degree since the processing of the crude is the same - one is just left in the pressure cooker longer and gets additional detergent/dispersant for longer service life. IF service managers and reps got a summarized version of what I tried to convey here in a regional forum about the general importance of using quality lubes, with a summarized foray into modern hydrocracking techniques, some may've come away with a mistaken impression that Hyundai wanted full synthetics in their engines now. (On the other hand, maybe YOU are absolutely right.) By the way all engines machined on automated CNC milling equipment have had exceptionally fine and consistent bearing and piston ring/bore clearances for the past decade. "Tolerance" refers to the amount the clearance can vary from the engineering ideal and still be within acceptable limits before repairs are necessary.
Ray_h1...I have to reason to lie about what I was told. The last thing I would ever want to to is report false information to anyone.
The fact that engines are being built to tighter specs, the need for a better lubricant comes into play. Maybe, just maybe conventional oils do pass muster, however...why take a chance? If you know you get better lubricating properties from a synthetic...in MY mind, paying the extra bucks for it is worth it.
By the way, if you would like to corroborate what I'm saying, you can contact Alexandria Hyundai (Alexandria, VA), Ken Dixon Hyundai (Waldorf, MD), and Fairfax Hyundai (Fairfax, VA). The Hyundai Corp. rep. is the one for the North Eastern region of the U.S. He was contacted by the service manager at Ken Dixon and then they let me know the date he was going to be there and I met with him on that date.
Sundevils...first of all, you're right...I got ahead of myself by stating it was in the owner's manual. If your dealership is telling you that conventional oil is being used, then by all means, go with what you're being told if that's what you choose to do.
I did, however, state that I got the same information from 3 different dealerships AND a Hyundai Corp. rep. that the cars indeed are delivered with synthetic oil in them from the factory.
Maybe it's a regional thing, I don't know, but I can tell you that here in the MD/DC/VA area, the service departments are saying that the Azeras are coming with synthetic oil already in them.
If you choose to use conventional oil in your Azera, more power to you. I'm certainly not going to lose any sleep over your decision as it doesn't affect me in any way, shape or form. I've done the conventional oil thing before with my '96 Camry. When I had my '02 Sonata, I decided to try a synthetic blend, the results were outstanding. The Camry had over 100K miles when it was totaled, but the engine wasn't running butter smooth (yes, I kept up on all the maintenance). With the synthetic blend, after 100K miles, the car still ran like it did when I first bought it. That was proof enough for me, so this time around...I'm going with a full synthetic and I'm not looking back.
Now...before you get gettin all worked up about what you know...people get on here and ask questions. Those of us that respond can only express what we know through experience (at least I hope that's the case). I have no reason to mislead anyone with anything I post. Especially if I know someone can backtrack and easily find out if what I'm saying it true or not.
I never meant to impugn your veracity, allmet33. I offered up what I've learned over the past four years about modern motor oils from oil company online sources and a dedicated oil forum, "BobIsTheOilGuy", but your personal comfort zone with what you run in your own engine is the ultimate arbiter for what's right for you. Peace.
RE 90 Don't get paranoid. I'm only passing on information from my local dealer. He may be wrong. Let's not talk about "corporate", they are the most uninformed people that I have ever encountered.
Took mine in for it's first oil change today @ 3500 miles.
The dealer wanted $110 for the service with synthetic oil. OUCH! I was prepared for about $60, so I went with dino-oil for $40. Is $110 for a Mobil 1 synthetic oil change consistant with what others have paid?
Time to buy a case of the filters, o-rings, crush rings and synthetic oil & do my own oil changes again. :confuse:
RE: 97 What a rip off! WalMart will do Mobil 1 oil change with filter for $32. If you want to use Hyundai filters, you can buy them at one of the Hyundai discount web sites and supply Walmart with that filter. The whole deal would than cost about $40.00 My local dealership does not use Mobil 1, but charges about $32 for oil change with filter. They use Penzoil synthetic oil and Hyundai OEM filters.
I picked up a Wix filter #57061 for $10 from my local auto parts guy. It wasn't listed in his book so he called the Wix distributor and they had it in stock. Got it the next day.
Bought the Mobil 1 10W-30 synth from Costco for $29.72 for 6 quarts. My owners manual indicates using 10W30 when temps do not fall below -18.
Dealer over in Visalia sent us a circular with a coupon for the color stick and advertised an oil and filter change for $29.95. Thats what I paid for the oil only.
Thinking we might try that next time. Currently have 10,500 miles on '06 Azera with no problems so far.
My dealer, had a XG from them before getting the 07 Azera, says the factory oil is a blend, part synthetic part dino oil. He does recommend the synthetic and you can bring your own and they just charge for the filter and labor, $40 plus cost of oil to me.
Well...when I took my Azera in for the steering wheel change, I got the oil changed and for the full synthetic the total came to $38.36.
$40 + cost of oil, that'll bring your oil change up to almost $70!!! Heck, you can take your own oil & filter to a local gas station and they'll do the change for $20.
Comments
(After Pennzoil sucessfully fought off a takeover attempt by Texaco - and garnered a multi-million dollar judgment against Texaco, Pennzoil bought rival Quaker State. What Pennzoil hadn't counted on was the amount of prior debt Quaker State was carrying. Ultimately Pennzoil was the target of another takeover attempt - this time, successfully by Shell Oil, U.S. So what any of you have been finding on shelves labled Pennzoil or Quaker State for the past several years is really a SOPUS product. In the quality hierarchy of SOPUS, "Pennzoil" is considered SOPUS' premium brand, followed by "Quaker State", with "Formula Shell" the company's entry-level, but fully API/ILSAC certified line.
Oh, and that recommendation in your Azera owner's manuals to use Quaker State oil? Money changed hands, pure and simple. (Hyundai doesn't even use Quaker State at its U.S. and Korean factories. Hyundai contracts with Nippon Oil for bulk motor oil delivered to its Korean plants. In the U.S. Nippon Oil has a blending facility in Alabama that serves Honda, Toyota, and Hyundai U.S. factories. Nippon Oil just introduced a line of premium synthetic motor oils to be distributed under the "Eneos" name.) If you have a favorite brand, continue with it. If you don't, shop on the basis of recommended viscosity and the latest API certification category: "SM" - that's really what counts. The next API certification category, "SN" will probably hit the shelves in about two and a half more years.
*at least in cast iron and iron sleeved aluminum engines. In aluminum-silicon blocks and alloy blocks with aluminum-silicon liners all bets are off.
I will have to check next oil change (which will be in about 1.5 months as I am putting about 3K a month on my car) for the PP and see what the cost is and if there are any rebates.
Thanks again for the great info my friend.
I own an Azera and I put 6 qts. in mine as well. So...when it comes to research, I did my due diligence. :shades:
I have had two oil changes now and, each time, the car used about all of my supplied 6 quarts. My "bad" for not providing you with an EXACT amount out to the proper decimal point
Just for giggles, I went out to my car to check the OWNERS manual as it states 5.5 quarts when changing the oil and filter. If your dealer in VA is only putting in 5 quarts as you say, he is putting peoples engines at risk by not properly filling to car to the recommended oil level.
I do not plan on replying to you regarding this thread anymore since I have now proven, unequivocally, both you and your dealer incorrect on this subject.
Happy Thanksgiving
I will have to let someone that owns an Azera speak to what's listed in their owners manual.
As I stated above, my dealer stated that the car does take 6 quarts.
I cannot imagine that there will be much difference, especially anything noticeable, going from 5W20 to 5W30. Before I bought my Hyundai, I was unaware of any manufacturer specifying anything other that 5W30 as I have used 5W30 for the past 25+ years.
I changed oil this morning, checked, could find not leaks, put the shroud back and everything was fine. Took a short errand trip this afternoon and smelled burning oil. When I got home, saw a stream flowing over the top of the transmission housing and onto the driveway. Got an extra filter, changed the filter and made sure the gaskets were installed. Still it leaked.
Took the filter housing cap off and moved the gasket down onto what looks like the threads about one or two grooves from the top. Tightened it again, had to use a channelox to get it to tighten, and heard the infamous "pop" as the gasket seated. No more leaks!
The HMA online Shop manual has poor instructions, I guess you just have to know these things.
Any way, back on the road.....no to clean up those oil drip stains!
In addition, I like the fact that for warranty reasons, all of my service information is in the Hyundai computer sustem so there should never be an issue as to when and how often I change my oil.
PENNZOIL Platinum Synthetic Motor or
Quaker State Q Advanced full synthetic
and do I need exactly 6 quarts or a little bit more than that?
I would recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic or great things have also been said about Pennzoil Platinum. My understanding is that you will need exactly 6 quarts.
Has anyone purchased it for $8.00 individually? Mind posting link. Any other input on Quaker and Pennzoil Oil? Why one better than the other?
Also, does the drain plug gasket have to be replaced each time oil is changed?
update: I just found this eBay auction for the oil filter, are people buying the filters for almost $20 each? or am I missing something here?
Paying 20 bucks for the filter makes no sense at at all, if dealers are charging 30 for oil change including filter.
there is also a dealership in indianapolis, i'll have to check the name but i think it's bob rohrman or something like that..i think the parts manager said he was willing to go 6.50 plus shipping, but couldn't ship the crush rings for some reason.
as far as the process goes, both the 2 o-rings and the crush ring for the drain plug should be changed everytime.
If they are, indeed, $6.50, than there's your best price. The place is Bob Rohrman's Indy Suzuki. Ask for the parts manager (sorry I can't remember his name but he helped me out with a few parts for my Sonata when I first bought it).
Also, I just bought 6 qts. of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 full synthetic at Advanced Auto Parts for $18.39 tax included. Unfortunately, this buy-one-get-one-free offer will expire today I believe.
My car has 1700 miles, is it too soon to change the oil? What would you recommend?
I'm not singling you out so much as taking advantage of a point you just brought up. Under the Magnuson-Moss consumer portection act of 1965, requiring or even hinting that dealership servicing is required to maintain warranty rights is illegal under U.S. federal law. (Since legal, voting entitled residents of the contiguous lower 48, Hawaii, and Alaska are subject to other federal statutes, I betcha they're covered under Magnuson-Moss, too.) Warranty claim rights are not forfeit for car owners who prefer to do their own maintenance. All that's necessary is to keep receipts for materials (oil, filters, spark plugs, etc.) and maintain a brief, handwritten log explaining what was done and when as evidence. The automaker or its agent (dealership) has the right to inspect the log and receipts on demand in the event of a question, but unless fraud is suspected, those documents are considered adequate. If fraud is suspected, suspicion alone is insufficient to deny a warranty claim, and the burden of proof is squarely on the automaker to provide irrefutable proof of a fraudulent claim, not on the car owner to establish his/her innocence.
For what it's worth, my '03 Sonata is still on its original oil pan plug crush washer. So far everything is bone dry whenever I go to change oil. The same was always true over the six and a half years I owned my previous '96 Accord. (Maybe the oil-change gods just smile on me, but I don't think so.)
I am very familiar with the M-M act as, when I was younger, I used to do a lot of mods to my vehicles and did all of my own maintenance too and this was always a topic of conversation on the earlier boards.
Guess I'm just getting to old to get under my car these days and feel that $17 is more than worth it to let someone else get dirty and deal with my oil plug
If they could only figure out a way to put the drain plug on TOP of the engine as they did with the filter, I may reconsider
The PELA PL-3000 oil extractor may be the next best thing.
Which I prolly will do anyway, having done that from the start with my '90 Accord (with 245,000 miles) which still needs no oil added between changes. I wasn't so kind to my '77 Accord and put a new engine in at 168,000 miles. I also suspect the cheap Agip oil I used for two years in Italy didn't help...
So...if you have driven it pretty regularly and only have 1200 miles on it, I would wait until you get to the 3,000-3,500 mile mark.
My cars have been based in Phoenix, Tucson, and San Diego. The first two cities are obviously extremely hot for much of the year. In all of the cities there is a great deal of stop and go driving due to freeway traffic and way too many traffic lights. Again, I change my oil every 7500 miles.
Finally, I have never (never!!!!!!!!!!!) used synthetic oil.
Changing your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles benefits the mechanic and the oil company - it doesn't benefit you.
So...if a car comes with synthetic oil and synthetic oil is recommended in the owner's manual...you mean to tell me you wouldn't use synthetic oil??? One thing I can tell you...if your engine did manage to fail, within the warranty period, for some reason and they found out you were using a conventional oil. I'm pretty sure they probably wouldn't have to honor it under warranty as you're not using what is recommended by the manufacturer.
Jnd17...there have been plenty of posts within this forum discussing the oil change intervals using synthetic oil. The 7,500 mile figure has been thrown around a few times, but everyone seems to feel more comfortable with 3,500-4,500. The owner's manual gives you a recommendation and the service department at your dealer can give you a recommendation as well. My opinion is to go with what you feel comfortable with.
With the advantages of synthetic over conventional, I've almost NEVER heard of anyone switching down to conventional if their car came with a synthetic. Quite absurd if you ask me. However...Sundevils, more power to ya!
Also living in AZ and dealing with the desert heat, I used the 5W-30 version. (5w-20 is also harder to find.)
I have used synthetics in most cars for a number of years. In cold climates, the major advantage is free flowing at extreme cold temperatures, so the oil can protect metal parts at startup. When I lived in Minneapolis, and my car sat out at the airport for the week when I traveled, I knew it would turn over and start with synthetic oil.
In the heat and stop/go driving of Phoenix, the protection needs are at the other end of the heat spectrum.
When you compare at Wally-mart, a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX runs about $10; 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum (full synthetic) is $18; Mobil 1 is $25. For the added few bucks, I'd rather have the synthetic
I live in the DC area so we have the best of both worlds when it comes to weather...summers get rather hot (combinded with extremem humidity)averaging in the 90's (topping 100 here and there) and in the winter we get freezing temps (nothing close to Minneapolis).
Like you...I prefer to pay the few extra bucks for the added protection that synthetic offers. I usually change my oil between 3,500-4,500 miles, but knowing I can actually go a little further is a bonus.
Someone has brain washed you to believe that the oil in your car goes stale after a period of time. It does not. If the car is run for very short periods of time, the oil might not heat enough to evaporate the water that has condensed as a normal process between cold to hot to cold fluids. After a long period of time, especially on older more worn engines, the emissions might produce a higher acid level in the oil. This will not happen in 3 months.
The sae. weight of the oil determines the flow rate of the oil. The flow rate of synthetic is the same as conventional at the same temperature. Check with some commercial vehicle users such as trucking companies, car rental companies, police departments etc. and determine what interval they use for oil changes.
After doing some studies about oil for hard run engines, I made the decision to switch to synthetic for its' greater lubricating characteristics under stress conditions, such as an engine being run at 90% of top end for prolonged periods. If it makes you feel secure, go for the frequent changes, but it is not necessary.
No offense, allmet33, but what is the basis for this claim? Is this reference actually in the owner's manual?
My local dealer told me that car did not come with synthetic oil from factory, but that they (Local) use synthetic oil in their changes.
Reason being is that the newer engines being built today have tigther tolerances between gearing and other friction parts. Say what you want, I'm not making this up, this is what was shared with me.
My dealership (North County Hyundai in Carlsbad, CA) is not using synthetic oil in the Azera oil changes. You can get it as an upsell, of course.
Thanks for respondng. I don't doubt you're relating what you were told, and it may be true. I'm just perplexed why Hyundai hasn't listed such a preference in their owner's manuals and shop manuals if the use of full synthetic motor oil is the company's intent for their engines. I have a feeling the service managers are getting third-hand information from regional reps, who themselves are well down in the pecking order from engineering. To expand as briefly as I dare, modern motor oil base oils are further refined from what comes out of the distillate tower by a complex heat/pressure/catalytic procedure called "hydro-isomerization", aka "hydrocracking" and "hydrotreating" (an outgrowth of German synthetic lube and fuel production during WW-II) in which undesirable molecules such as waxes and solvent-like aromatics are not merely filtered or boiled off, but converted to desirable carbon chain-length alkane lube molecules. When performed long enough, the result is a product that is a form of synthetic base stock, "Group III" - and most base oils used in full synthetic motor oils are created this way now. When hydrocracking isn't allowed to proceed to its full termination point, the result, "Group II" (and Group II+ - just shy of Group III), is still a remarkably stable lubricant. The point is that, once additized, and ALL motor oils require various additives to enhance their performance, the functional differences between full synthetic and conventional motor oils are a matter of degree since the processing of the crude is the same - one is just left in the pressure cooker longer and gets additional detergent/dispersant for longer service life. IF service managers and reps got a summarized version of what I tried to convey here in a regional forum about the general importance of using quality lubes, with a summarized foray into modern hydrocracking techniques, some may've come away with a mistaken impression that Hyundai wanted full synthetics in their engines now. (On the other hand, maybe YOU are absolutely right.) By the way all engines machined on automated CNC milling equipment have had exceptionally fine and consistent bearing and piston ring/bore clearances for the past decade. "Tolerance" refers to the amount the clearance can vary from the engineering ideal and still be within acceptable limits before repairs are necessary.
The fact that engines are being built to tighter specs, the need for a better lubricant comes into play. Maybe, just maybe conventional oils do pass muster, however...why take a chance? If you know you get better lubricating properties from a synthetic...in MY mind, paying the extra bucks for it is worth it.
By the way, if you would like to corroborate what I'm saying, you can contact Alexandria Hyundai (Alexandria, VA), Ken Dixon Hyundai (Waldorf, MD), and Fairfax Hyundai (Fairfax, VA). The Hyundai Corp. rep. is the one for the North Eastern region of the U.S. He was contacted by the service manager at Ken Dixon and then they let me know the date he was going to be there and I met with him on that date.
I did, however, state that I got the same information from 3 different dealerships AND a Hyundai Corp. rep. that the cars indeed are delivered with synthetic oil in them from the factory.
Maybe it's a regional thing, I don't know, but I can tell you that here in the MD/DC/VA area, the service departments are saying that the Azeras are coming with synthetic oil already in them.
If you choose to use conventional oil in your Azera, more power to you. I'm certainly not going to lose any sleep over your decision as it doesn't affect me in any way, shape or form. I've done the conventional oil thing before with my '96 Camry. When I had my '02 Sonata, I decided to try a synthetic blend, the results were outstanding. The Camry had over 100K miles when it was totaled, but the engine wasn't running butter smooth (yes, I kept up on all the maintenance). With the synthetic blend, after 100K miles, the car still ran like it did when I first bought it. That was proof enough for me, so this time around...I'm going with a full synthetic and I'm not looking back.
Now...before you get gettin all worked up about what you know...people get on here and ask questions. Those of us that respond can only express what we know through experience (at least I hope that's the case). I have no reason to mislead anyone with anything I post. Especially if I know someone can backtrack and easily find out if what I'm saying it true or not.
Don't get paranoid. I'm only passing on information from my local dealer. He may be wrong. Let's not talk about "corporate", they are the most uninformed people that I have ever encountered.
The dealer wanted $110 for the service with synthetic oil. OUCH! I was prepared for about $60, so I went with dino-oil for $40. Is $110 for a Mobil 1 synthetic oil change consistant with what others have paid?
Time to buy a case of the filters, o-rings, crush rings and synthetic oil & do my own oil changes again. :confuse:
What a rip off!
WalMart will do Mobil 1 oil change with filter for $32.
If you want to use Hyundai filters, you can buy them at one of the Hyundai discount web sites and supply Walmart with that filter. The whole deal would than cost about $40.00
My local dealership does not use Mobil 1, but charges about $32 for oil change with filter. They use Penzoil synthetic oil and Hyundai OEM filters.
Bought the Mobil 1 10W-30 synth from Costco for $29.72 for 6 quarts. My owners manual indicates using 10W30 when temps do not fall below -18.
Dealer over in Visalia sent us a circular with a coupon for the color stick and advertised an oil and filter change for $29.95. Thats what I paid for the oil only.
Thinking we might try that next time. Currently have 10,500 miles on '06 Azera with no problems so far.
Still happy campers, would buy it again.
Don
$40 + cost of oil, that'll bring your oil change up to almost $70!!! Heck, you can take your own oil & filter to a local gas station and they'll do the change for $20.