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(After Pennzoil sucessfully fought off a takeover attempt by Texaco - and garnered a multi-million dollar judgment against Texaco, Pennzoil bought rival Quaker State. What Pennzoil hadn't counted on was the amount of prior debt Quaker State was carrying. Ultimately Pennzoil was the target of another takeover attempt - this time, successfully by Shell Oil, U.S. So what any of you have been finding on shelves labled Pennzoil or Quaker State for the past several years is really a SOPUS product. In the quality hierarchy of SOPUS, "Pennzoil" is considered SOPUS' premium brand, followed by "Quaker State", with "Formula Shell" the company's entry-level, but fully API/ILSAC certified line.
Oh, and that recommendation in your Azera owner's manuals to use Quaker State oil? Money changed hands, pure and simple. (Hyundai doesn't even use Quaker State at its U.S. and Korean factories. Hyundai contracts with Nippon Oil for bulk motor oil delivered to its Korean plants. In the U.S. Nippon Oil has a blending facility in Alabama that serves Honda, Toyota, and Hyundai U.S. factories. Nippon Oil just introduced a line of premium synthetic motor oils to be distributed under the "Eneos" name.) If you have a favorite brand, continue with it. If you don't, shop on the basis of recommended viscosity and the latest API certification category: "SM" - that's really what counts. The next API certification category, "SN" will probably hit the shelves in about two and a half more years.
*at least in cast iron and iron sleeved aluminum engines. In aluminum-silicon blocks and alloy blocks with aluminum-silicon liners all bets are off.
I will have to check next oil change (which will be in about 1.5 months as I am putting about 3K a month on my car) for the PP and see what the cost is and if there are any rebates.
Thanks again for the great info my friend.
I own an Azera and I put 6 qts. in mine as well. So...when it comes to research, I did my due diligence. :shades:
I have had two oil changes now and, each time, the car used about all of my supplied 6 quarts. My "bad" for not providing you with an EXACT amount out to the proper decimal point
Just for giggles, I went out to my car to check the OWNERS manual as it states 5.5 quarts when changing the oil and filter. If your dealer in VA is only putting in 5 quarts as you say, he is putting peoples engines at risk by not properly filling to car to the recommended oil level.
I do not plan on replying to you regarding this thread anymore since I have now proven, unequivocally, both you and your dealer incorrect on this subject.
Happy Thanksgiving
I will have to let someone that owns an Azera speak to what's listed in their owners manual.
As I stated above, my dealer stated that the car does take 6 quarts.
I cannot imagine that there will be much difference, especially anything noticeable, going from 5W20 to 5W30. Before I bought my Hyundai, I was unaware of any manufacturer specifying anything other that 5W30 as I have used 5W30 for the past 25+ years.
I changed oil this morning, checked, could find not leaks, put the shroud back and everything was fine. Took a short errand trip this afternoon and smelled burning oil. When I got home, saw a stream flowing over the top of the transmission housing and onto the driveway. Got an extra filter, changed the filter and made sure the gaskets were installed. Still it leaked.
Took the filter housing cap off and moved the gasket down onto what looks like the threads about one or two grooves from the top. Tightened it again, had to use a channelox to get it to tighten, and heard the infamous "pop" as the gasket seated. No more leaks!
The HMA online Shop manual has poor instructions, I guess you just have to know these things.
Any way, back on the road.....no to clean up those oil drip stains!
In addition, I like the fact that for warranty reasons, all of my service information is in the Hyundai computer sustem so there should never be an issue as to when and how often I change my oil.
PENNZOIL Platinum Synthetic Motor or
Quaker State Q Advanced full synthetic
and do I need exactly 6 quarts or a little bit more than that?
I would recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic or great things have also been said about Pennzoil Platinum. My understanding is that you will need exactly 6 quarts.
Has anyone purchased it for $8.00 individually? Mind posting link. Any other input on Quaker and Pennzoil Oil? Why one better than the other?
Also, does the drain plug gasket have to be replaced each time oil is changed?
update: I just found this eBay auction for the oil filter, are people buying the filters for almost $20 each? or am I missing something here?
Paying 20 bucks for the filter makes no sense at at all, if dealers are charging 30 for oil change including filter.
there is also a dealership in indianapolis, i'll have to check the name but i think it's bob rohrman or something like that..i think the parts manager said he was willing to go 6.50 plus shipping, but couldn't ship the crush rings for some reason.
as far as the process goes, both the 2 o-rings and the crush ring for the drain plug should be changed everytime.
If they are, indeed, $6.50, than there's your best price. The place is Bob Rohrman's Indy Suzuki. Ask for the parts manager (sorry I can't remember his name but he helped me out with a few parts for my Sonata when I first bought it).
Also, I just bought 6 qts. of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 full synthetic at Advanced Auto Parts for $18.39 tax included. Unfortunately, this buy-one-get-one-free offer will expire today I believe.
My car has 1700 miles, is it too soon to change the oil? What would you recommend?
I'm not singling you out so much as taking advantage of a point you just brought up. Under the Magnuson-Moss consumer portection act of 1965, requiring or even hinting that dealership servicing is required to maintain warranty rights is illegal under U.S. federal law. (Since legal, voting entitled residents of the contiguous lower 48, Hawaii, and Alaska are subject to other federal statutes, I betcha they're covered under Magnuson-Moss, too.) Warranty claim rights are not forfeit for car owners who prefer to do their own maintenance. All that's necessary is to keep receipts for materials (oil, filters, spark plugs, etc.) and maintain a brief, handwritten log explaining what was done and when as evidence. The automaker or its agent (dealership) has the right to inspect the log and receipts on demand in the event of a question, but unless fraud is suspected, those documents are considered adequate. If fraud is suspected, suspicion alone is insufficient to deny a warranty claim, and the burden of proof is squarely on the automaker to provide irrefutable proof of a fraudulent claim, not on the car owner to establish his/her innocence.
For what it's worth, my '03 Sonata is still on its original oil pan plug crush washer. So far everything is bone dry whenever I go to change oil. The same was always true over the six and a half years I owned my previous '96 Accord. (Maybe the oil-change gods just smile on me, but I don't think so.)
I am very familiar with the M-M act as, when I was younger, I used to do a lot of mods to my vehicles and did all of my own maintenance too and this was always a topic of conversation on the earlier boards.
Guess I'm just getting to old to get under my car these days and feel that $17 is more than worth it to let someone else get dirty and deal with my oil plug
If they could only figure out a way to put the drain plug on TOP of the engine as they did with the filter, I may reconsider
The PELA PL-3000 oil extractor may be the next best thing.
Which I prolly will do anyway, having done that from the start with my '90 Accord (with 245,000 miles) which still needs no oil added between changes. I wasn't so kind to my '77 Accord and put a new engine in at 168,000 miles. I also suspect the cheap Agip oil I used for two years in Italy didn't help...
So...if you have driven it pretty regularly and only have 1200 miles on it, I would wait until you get to the 3,000-3,500 mile mark.
My cars have been based in Phoenix, Tucson, and San Diego. The first two cities are obviously extremely hot for much of the year. In all of the cities there is a great deal of stop and go driving due to freeway traffic and way too many traffic lights. Again, I change my oil every 7500 miles.
Finally, I have never (never!!!!!!!!!!!) used synthetic oil.
Changing your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles benefits the mechanic and the oil company - it doesn't benefit you.
So...if a car comes with synthetic oil and synthetic oil is recommended in the owner's manual...you mean to tell me you wouldn't use synthetic oil??? One thing I can tell you...if your engine did manage to fail, within the warranty period, for some reason and they found out you were using a conventional oil. I'm pretty sure they probably wouldn't have to honor it under warranty as you're not using what is recommended by the manufacturer.
Jnd17...there have been plenty of posts within this forum discussing the oil change intervals using synthetic oil. The 7,500 mile figure has been thrown around a few times, but everyone seems to feel more comfortable with 3,500-4,500. The owner's manual gives you a recommendation and the service department at your dealer can give you a recommendation as well. My opinion is to go with what you feel comfortable with.
With the advantages of synthetic over conventional, I've almost NEVER heard of anyone switching down to conventional if their car came with a synthetic. Quite absurd if you ask me. However...Sundevils, more power to ya!
Also living in AZ and dealing with the desert heat, I used the 5W-30 version. (5w-20 is also harder to find.)
I have used synthetics in most cars for a number of years. In cold climates, the major advantage is free flowing at extreme cold temperatures, so the oil can protect metal parts at startup. When I lived in Minneapolis, and my car sat out at the airport for the week when I traveled, I knew it would turn over and start with synthetic oil.
In the heat and stop/go driving of Phoenix, the protection needs are at the other end of the heat spectrum.
When you compare at Wally-mart, a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX runs about $10; 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum (full synthetic) is $18; Mobil 1 is $25. For the added few bucks, I'd rather have the synthetic
I live in the DC area so we have the best of both worlds when it comes to weather...summers get rather hot (combinded with extremem humidity)averaging in the 90's (topping 100 here and there) and in the winter we get freezing temps (nothing close to Minneapolis).
Like you...I prefer to pay the few extra bucks for the added protection that synthetic offers. I usually change my oil between 3,500-4,500 miles, but knowing I can actually go a little further is a bonus.
Someone has brain washed you to believe that the oil in your car goes stale after a period of time. It does not. If the car is run for very short periods of time, the oil might not heat enough to evaporate the water that has condensed as a normal process between cold to hot to cold fluids. After a long period of time, especially on older more worn engines, the emissions might produce a higher acid level in the oil. This will not happen in 3 months.
The sae. weight of the oil determines the flow rate of the oil. The flow rate of synthetic is the same as conventional at the same temperature. Check with some commercial vehicle users such as trucking companies, car rental companies, police departments etc. and determine what interval they use for oil changes.
After doing some studies about oil for hard run engines, I made the decision to switch to synthetic for its' greater lubricating characteristics under stress conditions, such as an engine being run at 90% of top end for prolonged periods. If it makes you feel secure, go for the frequent changes, but it is not necessary.
No offense, allmet33, but what is the basis for this claim? Is this reference actually in the owner's manual?
My local dealer told me that car did not come with synthetic oil from factory, but that they (Local) use synthetic oil in their changes.
Reason being is that the newer engines being built today have tigther tolerances between gearing and other friction parts. Say what you want, I'm not making this up, this is what was shared with me.
My dealership (North County Hyundai in Carlsbad, CA) is not using synthetic oil in the Azera oil changes. You can get it as an upsell, of course.
Thanks for respondng. I don't doubt you're relating what you were told, and it may be true. I'm just perplexed why Hyundai hasn't listed such a preference in their owner's manuals and shop manuals if the use of full synthetic motor oil is the company's intent for their engines. I have a feeling the service managers are getting third-hand information from regional reps, who themselves are well down in the pecking order from engineering. To expand as briefly as I dare, modern motor oil base oils are further refined from what comes out of the distillate tower by a complex heat/pressure/catalytic procedure called "hydro-isomerization", aka "hydrocracking" and "hydrotreating" (an outgrowth of German synthetic lube and fuel production during WW-II) in which undesirable molecules such as waxes and solvent-like aromatics are not merely filtered or boiled off, but converted to desirable carbon chain-length alkane lube molecules. When performed long enough, the result is a product that is a form of synthetic base stock, "Group III" - and most base oils used in full synthetic motor oils are created this way now. When hydrocracking isn't allowed to proceed to its full termination point, the result, "Group II" (and Group II+ - just shy of Group III), is still a remarkably stable lubricant. The point is that, once additized, and ALL motor oils require various additives to enhance their performance, the functional differences between full synthetic and conventional motor oils are a matter of degree since the processing of the crude is the same - one is just left in the pressure cooker longer and gets additional detergent/dispersant for longer service life. IF service managers and reps got a summarized version of what I tried to convey here in a regional forum about the general importance of using quality lubes, with a summarized foray into modern hydrocracking techniques, some may've come away with a mistaken impression that Hyundai wanted full synthetics in their engines now. (On the other hand, maybe YOU are absolutely right.) By the way all engines machined on automated CNC milling equipment have had exceptionally fine and consistent bearing and piston ring/bore clearances for the past decade. "Tolerance" refers to the amount the clearance can vary from the engineering ideal and still be within acceptable limits before repairs are necessary.
The fact that engines are being built to tighter specs, the need for a better lubricant comes into play. Maybe, just maybe conventional oils do pass muster, however...why take a chance? If you know you get better lubricating properties from a synthetic...in MY mind, paying the extra bucks for it is worth it.
By the way, if you would like to corroborate what I'm saying, you can contact Alexandria Hyundai (Alexandria, VA), Ken Dixon Hyundai (Waldorf, MD), and Fairfax Hyundai (Fairfax, VA). The Hyundai Corp. rep. is the one for the North Eastern region of the U.S. He was contacted by the service manager at Ken Dixon and then they let me know the date he was going to be there and I met with him on that date.
I did, however, state that I got the same information from 3 different dealerships AND a Hyundai Corp. rep. that the cars indeed are delivered with synthetic oil in them from the factory.
Maybe it's a regional thing, I don't know, but I can tell you that here in the MD/DC/VA area, the service departments are saying that the Azeras are coming with synthetic oil already in them.
If you choose to use conventional oil in your Azera, more power to you. I'm certainly not going to lose any sleep over your decision as it doesn't affect me in any way, shape or form. I've done the conventional oil thing before with my '96 Camry. When I had my '02 Sonata, I decided to try a synthetic blend, the results were outstanding. The Camry had over 100K miles when it was totaled, but the engine wasn't running butter smooth (yes, I kept up on all the maintenance). With the synthetic blend, after 100K miles, the car still ran like it did when I first bought it. That was proof enough for me, so this time around...I'm going with a full synthetic and I'm not looking back.
Now...before you get gettin all worked up about what you know...people get on here and ask questions. Those of us that respond can only express what we know through experience (at least I hope that's the case). I have no reason to mislead anyone with anything I post. Especially if I know someone can backtrack and easily find out if what I'm saying it true or not.
Don't get paranoid. I'm only passing on information from my local dealer. He may be wrong. Let's not talk about "corporate", they are the most uninformed people that I have ever encountered.
The dealer wanted $110 for the service with synthetic oil. OUCH! I was prepared for about $60, so I went with dino-oil for $40. Is $110 for a Mobil 1 synthetic oil change consistant with what others have paid?
Time to buy a case of the filters, o-rings, crush rings and synthetic oil & do my own oil changes again. :confuse:
What a rip off!
WalMart will do Mobil 1 oil change with filter for $32.
If you want to use Hyundai filters, you can buy them at one of the Hyundai discount web sites and supply Walmart with that filter. The whole deal would than cost about $40.00
My local dealership does not use Mobil 1, but charges about $32 for oil change with filter. They use Penzoil synthetic oil and Hyundai OEM filters.
Bought the Mobil 1 10W-30 synth from Costco for $29.72 for 6 quarts. My owners manual indicates using 10W30 when temps do not fall below -18.
Dealer over in Visalia sent us a circular with a coupon for the color stick and advertised an oil and filter change for $29.95. Thats what I paid for the oil only.
Thinking we might try that next time. Currently have 10,500 miles on '06 Azera with no problems so far.
Still happy campers, would buy it again.
Don
$40 + cost of oil, that'll bring your oil change up to almost $70!!! Heck, you can take your own oil & filter to a local gas station and they'll do the change for $20.