Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair

maddawg46maddawg46 Member Posts: 4
edited October 2014 in Hyundai
Since the owners manual doest talk about oil changes, does anybody have details on how the filter drains, where the drain plug is?? I hate to have to buy a service manual just to do minor maintenance.


  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    I have not changed the break-in oil yet as the Azera only has 1500 miles on the odometer. I understand the panel that fits over the top of the engine, held on by 6 connectors, needs to be removed to access the oil filter. The factory oil filter is a cartridge, and comes with two gaskets. I would guess one is used for the cover of the oil filter housing; the other might (not sure) be used on the drain plug for the engine. (I have a Honda that requires a new washer every change.)

    As to the drain plug: I have not looked specifically, I will expect it to be on the back side of the oil pan. Won't know til I get there. Sorry couldn't be more help
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Basically what you said, except the two gaskets which come with the new filter cartridge are nitrile or silicone "o-rings". The larger one seals the cartridge housing lid to the housing. The smaller one goes over a nipple on the replacement cardridge prior to installation to prevent unfiltered oil from "cheating" back into the sump. As far as the drain plug is concerned - S.O.P. (standard operating procedure). The hex-head plug is on the back of the sump bottom extension, centered near its bottom. (Unless Hyundai's uncharacteristically changed the size of the engine oil drain plug, a 17mm wrench should be fine for removal and replacement. In a pinch, you should be able to get away with an 11/16" open end wrench, or 6 pt. socket or closed end wrench without danger of rounding off the head. I wouldn't chance a 12 pt. inch-system wrench, though - that's just begging for a rounded-off drain plug head. It would also be uncharacteristic for Hyundai not to provide explicit instructions and diagrams in their owner's manual detailing the oil change procedure. Check the "D0-IT-YOURSELF MAINTENANCE" section.)
  • maddawg46maddawg46 Member Posts: 4
    Was at the dealers on Saturday. The service guy told me the filter wrench is a special one that the auto parts stores dont have. Thats a "gottcha"! The wrench is not listed in the parts fish. Any idea where to get one? So has anybody out there changed their own oil yet? This filter wrench seems to be a big issue just to change your own oil.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    You have two options:
    1) Gingerly remove the oil filter cap using a LARGE set of ChannelLok pliers along with a rag inserted between its jaws and the cap to prevent marring it. But, you run the risk of rounding off the points on the cap with this kludge.
    2) Bite the bullet and buy the genuine, handy-dandy Hyundai oil filter cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100. (I located the part number in the online Hyundai Azera shop manual's special tool subsection of the "General" section. The accompanying online diagram indicates it slips over the flats of the oil filter cap and has what appears to be a 3/8" square hole to accept a 3/8" drive shank to loosen or tighten.)
  • maddawg46maddawg46 Member Posts: 4
    Great! Thats what I needed. Now my problem is conveying this with the "Dip" in the parts department. He does not seem to know about "Special Tools". At least the service guys are being helpful at the dealership.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    If one reads the newly posted article on AOL they will see the definite advantages in using full synthetic oil. They recommend using 5-30 weight in most conditions, due to the fact that modern engines are built to high and tight specifications which do not require thick oil to fill improperly engineered gaps. The synthetic oil should provide longer service and provide increased gas milage.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    AOL, eh? Now there's a paragon for up-to-date technical expertise and information... I don't have any fundemental objections to 5W-20, but I won't use that viscosity range in anything I own, either, given my climate that varies from warm (rarely down to +40 deg. F.) to HOT. Hot climate, high compression engine - not a combination I care to entrust my engine to light viscosity motor oils. I'll leave doing that to others. The move to lighter viscosity range oils in the U.S. is purely EPA driven. Failure to achieve mandated EPA fuel economy targets results in stiff financial penalties against the "errant" automaker. Outside the U.S., automakers, both U.S. and foreign, continue to suggest 5W-30 and 10W-30 - and the precisely machined bearing clearances are identical to those for engines produced for U.S. sale. To those who implicitly trust the U.S. owner's manual's recommendation to use 5W-20, good luck and I hope your long term experiences prove my reservations wrong.

    (But, in the meantime, they'll have to tear my 10W-30 motor oil out of my cold, dead fingers... :P)
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Ray, I agree, I have repeatedly questioned dealer "advisors" about the 5W-20 recommendation in the heat of the Arizona deserts. I think they feel better since 5W-20 is less common and justifies them charging more....less chance of going to the auto parts store to buy your own.

    That's why I change my own oil in my cars. I can make sure get the Mobil 1 or Syntec that I paid for.
  • cbrturbocbrturbo Member Posts: 16
    Band wrench works great. On the Sonotas I have changed i have actually taken the filter off by hand on the first oil changes. (Sonota V6 uses the same filter and setup)

    (I run an oil change shop)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "(I run an oil change shop)" ((

    You would be a good person to share with us your opinions of who formulates the better motor oils.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Not sure how much of a thickness difference there is between 5W-20 & 5W-30, but in the DC/MD region...they are using the 5W-30. Temps can go up to 100 (summer) down to -15 (winter). With all the hot days we had this past summer, the 5W-30 didn't seem to have any problems and my change intervals were between 3500 - 4000 miles.

    If I recall correctly, the owner's manual does say that you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 as well.

    I too change my own oil and I've been using the 5W-30 Syntec.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    A lot of times, it seems like it takes forever for parts to come out for a new model vehicle. I love ceramic pads in that you don't get as much brake dust build up on your wheels. I had them on my '02 Sonata and they were great. Here's a link where you can order ceramic pads for the Azera:Azera Ceramic Pads

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "Not sure how much of a thickness difference there is between 5W-20 & 5W-30, but in the DC/MD region...they are using the 5W-30." ((

    You're not hurting a thing running 5W-30. Both 5W-20 and 5W-30 are very close from about +30 deg F. down to -30 deg F., so cold "flowability" isn't an issue. At fully warmed engine temps in hot climates, 5W-30 exhibits somewhat more "body" with less of a tendency to wash off moving parts, but at the expense of slightly reduced fuel economy - in the range of a half mile per gallon reduction. I still run 10W-30 in my '03 Sonata V6 and yet manage 30+ mpg at 70 mph with the A/C roaring. I recently had a congenial discussion with an enthusiastic 5W-20 aficionado and asked him how many tri-initial ultimate driving machine owners he thought run that mouse-milk viscosity in their weekend club day events. He turned a little red and walked off without answering. (Golly - could it have been something I said?)
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557 do you think I should go ahead and switch over to a 10W-30 for the summer months? Does it hurt an engine of you bounce back and forth between viscosities???
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Here in inland southern California we see summer temps over 106 deg. F. for a month and a half. Not Phoenix or Houston hot, but, still hot. (only hit 95 yesterday - a real cold snap...) 10W-30 in the D.C. area during summer wouldn't hurt a thing, but I don't want you to get the idea that it's an imperative. Would I use 10W-30 in your summer climate? Yep. If D.C.'s as humid as I suspect in the summer, your underhood temperatures could well be as hot as the desert southwest since you undoubtedly depend on the A/C - and at that with one setting: full arctic blizzard.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Yeah...the humidity here is nothing to laugh at! I soon as you walk out your front door you've got a bead of perspiration forming on your forehead. At least out in Cali, you get to walk around before you start sweating! ;)

    I'll keep that tidbit of info in mind. From now on...from about May thru the end of August...I'll put 10W-30 in and the rest of the months I'll go with the 5W-30.
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Allmet, I'll add my experience to the discussion. Back when I lived in cold-cold Minnesota, 5W oil was a mandatory, as the engine turned over easier after sub-freezing temps. There was a noticeable difference in 5W vs. 10W based oils.

    I have been lead to believe that 5W base oil is best no matter what climate, as it will flow faster and cover those parts not well lubricated at start up.

    So....I will run 5w-30 Year round in our Phoenix heat. No problems with oil circulation, but the 30 should be better for high temps protection.

    Good luck
  • elmoderodelmoderod Member Posts: 1
    cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100 Did you now the price.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    No idea, but someone else posted on one of the Azera discussions recently that a common rubber "strap" wrench works just dandy on these new Hyundai V6 engine cartridge oil filter caps. These strap wrenches usually run about $3.00 plus or minus at most any auto parts store. Word to the wise, these caps seal with an interference-fit O-ring instead of a pressure-loaded conventional gasket. They don't have to be (and shouldn't be) screwed on with the force of a sumo wrestler pumped up on anabolic steroids - just snug enough not to be hand-removable will be sufficient.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557

    Actually...if you just snug it down by hand, the cap isn't seated completely (I found out the hard way on my first oil change). Tightening it by hand doesn't get the seal to seat properly and oil can leak out. The wrench will tighten it just nicely, but listen or feel for a little pop, that means the gasket is seated. If you can take the oil filter cap off by's not on right.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    My experience has been that over tightening causes more problems than under tightening. I have found that snug hand tightening, without wrench, has always worked,without leaks.
    I have never heard the "pop" that you refer to.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Really? Well, I did the hand tightening and it didn't go all the way down, I used an oil filter wrench (slowly and carefully) until the gap bewtween the top of the cannister and the lip of the lid came together and that's when I felt a click/pop. When I did it by tight as I could...I had some minimal leakage. I guess you gotta see what works for you on an individual basis.
  • christy7christy7 Member Posts: 21
    Our dealer told us to come back for the first oil change at 3700. The owners' manual says that 7500 miles is the interval to use, unless you drive under "severe" conditions, which we don't.
    So, if I go by my manual, there shouldn't be any problems with the warranty down the rode should there? Does anyone get their Azera's oil changed that often?
    I've read a lot about oil, and what type to use. But, I just wanted to ask what is the best oil to use? I don't know anything about thickness, etc. I just know that the full sythetic is better for the engine.
    So, guys, can you coach a girl though all this?
    What type of oil do I ask for at the service station, and what thickness, or brand, etc.? And how often should I go in?
    I know they want to make money, but I don't want to give them any more than I have to!
    Any help is appreciated!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "The owners' manual says that 7500 miles is the interval to use, unless you drive under "severe" conditions, which we don't." ((

    Did you fully peruse the various conditions listed in the maintenance section of your owner's manual that constitute "severe service"? It would be unusual NOT to have several in play at the height of summer or winter in many parts of the country. However, if you're comfortable with 7,500 mile oil change intervals, then I'm sure synthetic motor oil will have the best chance of surviving that duration. As to the proper motor oil viscosity ("thickness"), it's listed in your owner's manual as well as on your engine's oil fill cap.
  • rickjudirickjudi Member Posts: 2
    remove the top engine cover. To the right of center is a cyliner, this is where your oil filter is.
    Regarding draining old oil from the engine, do this before removing the filter housing lid. Facing the front of the car the drain plug is near the passenger side wheel.
    How do I get a question onto the form? Can't find a friggin place to ask one.
    [email protected]
  • rickjudirickjudi Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2006 Hyundai Azera. The factory window stick says average mileage rating of 19 city/28 Hwy. In your dreams. Am I the only person getting barely 20 MPG at freeway speeds?

  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    12,000 miles. According to dash computer, I get about 16-17 mpg city and 23-24 highway. My average usage indicates about 17.5-18.5 mpg. Florida driving, no hills or mountains.
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Member Posts: 299
    I just changed my oil at 3000 miles to get rid of the old oil and any initial engine contaminants. I always have the oil changed in a brand new vehicle at 3K miles.

    I then religiously use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 5W30 and go 5,000 mile intervals for the life of the vehicle. Synthetic is far superior and the dealer stated that it makes total sense to go 5K based on the use of synthetic. I don't think I would ever go more than 6K...7500 miles seems way to much even though they state it's acceptable.

    I always use the dealership so that the service records are in their national computer database but supply my own oil.

    I average about $20 for the change and $25 for the Mobil 1.
  • donvickdonvick Member Posts: 38
    I just changed oil, first time,in our Azera @ 7500 miles. Wix filter #57061 for $10 from my local auto parts guy. It wasn't listed in his book so he called the Wix distributor and they had it in stock. Got it the next day.

    Bought the Mobil 1 10W-30 synth from Costco for $29.72 for 6 quarts. My owners manual indicates using 10W30 when temps do not fall below -18.

    Didn't use a strap wrench, just unscrewed by hand. Its a snug fit and moves slowly as you overcome the O ring friction. There are 2 little white alignment lines on the cap and filter housing on the drivers side. Don't tip the cap as you take it out of the housing as oil will drip all over and mostly where you can't reach it to cleanup. Have a receptacle handy.

    Removing the oil plug was uneventful, same ole oil plug on everything else. Yes a 17mm wrench or socket works well, use a 6 point rather than a 12 point, the plug seems to be not so accurate a size. The cover over the engine is a 10mm size socket for 6 fasteners (4 capnuts, 2 bolts).

    I installed the new cartridge on the cap, make sure you gently push cartridge all the way down into the cap stem as this is where the internal filter O ring is seated. I think this is the "pop" someone else is talking about when seating the cap in the housing.
    I like this setup because the oil drains from the filter housing allowing the easy removal of the filter without splashing oil all over (if you are careful) like the screw on type filters.

    Screw the cap down and align the little white alignment lines and its done.

    Then reinstall oil plug and pour in new oil. You'll want to have an oil funnel as the oil can spout does not go into the fill hole very deep and will most likely drip or splash out and dribble down on the exhaust.

    So for $40 I changed oil @ 7500 miles. On the Grand Am I changed it anywhere from 1500 to 2000 miles using non Synthetic oil for a cost of about $8.95.

    Thats about 5 times as often (7500/1500=5)for cost of $44.75. Difference in using Synth vs Dino is negligible financially.

    The oil I removed from the Azera was still plenty slippery and not sticky at all and no grittiness. Though it had a used color to to it, slightly orange/brown/tan, I wouldn't be concerned with it going a few thousand miles further if I had to.

    The oil drained from the Grand Am would be sorta sticky or not so slippery. The engine would tell us it needed an oil change by the sounds it made, less lubrication going on.

    Real easy process changing oil on the Azera. First timers can do it easy. It also gives the finicky a chance to clean the dust off the engine cover shroud.

  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Don, thanks for the oil change notes. I'm about to do the Azera for the first time this weekend, have to admit I haven't changed a cartridge type filter since working in a gas station and working on 283 Chevy V-8 engines. It was always "special" to have that hot oil drip down your arm as you loosened the housing; glad Hyundai has a more modern approach.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    R 30
    My local dealer charges 30 bucks for synthetic oil change including oem filter.
    If you want, they will wash car after service.
    Unless you enjoy the work, does it make sense to do it yourslf?
  • donvickdonvick Member Posts: 38
    I'll have to check again but I'm certain oil change was closer to $60 here. Regardless I prefer doing these things myself and have changed oil in my vehicles since I was 16 years old.

    That is a real deal there for $30. I'd probably have dealer do it also for that price. I did buy oil and filter at retail price. What oil does your dealer use? Owners manual says Hyundai recommends Quaker State.

    I had thought about using Amsoil but the local dealer was not in that day and while at Costco seen the Mobil 1 and went for it.

    Anyone out there using Amsoil? Their site is where I learned of the Wix filter and obtained the part number.

  • donvickdonvick Member Posts: 38
    Oh yes I remember those. I had a 1954 Cadillac Fleetwood back in 1966, I was 16. The oil filter case was up alongside the engine on top in front of passenger firewall. What a mess.
    Seems to me the Oldsmobile or Buicks had the same setup?

    Remember the big bolt going down through the center? Yuck.

    Azera is nice in that there is no bolt, just a cap to screw on or off. Inside is a stem with the cartrdge ridng on it. Real nice setup.

    If you don't spend a lot of time investigating things, having a look see as to how they did things and what else is going on in there. You'd probably do the oil change in about 15 minutes.

    Then again, I like doing my own maintenance.

  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE 33
    I'm not sure which brand that they are using, but I will check the next time I go by.
    In my area of south Florida, the dealers like to give great deals on oil changes to get cars in for service where they can make big bucks.
    With my extended warranty, I figure that it will take them a long time to grab too much money from me.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    You better be sure that's the price...I know here the $30 is for the Sonata and the Azera is slightly higher (bigger engine needing more oil). I would also be careful about them washing your car if you're worried about swirl marks and all that...I highly doubt if they clean their wash rags and towels too often which means your car is being cleaned with the grime from previous cars. If it's not a concern, then go for it...especially now that it's winter time!

    Personally, as simple as it is to change the oil on the Azera...I just do it myself. I'm using the Castrol Syntec 5W-30.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE 36
    I have twice, had the oil changed on my Azera by the dealer, and the price was as I stated.
    The car wash can be eliminated if one is concerned about the manner in which it is done, although I assume when you took delivery of your car, it had been washed at dealership.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    By all means, if that's the case...then I would definitely go that route considering you pay that by purchasing your own oil and filter anyway. Only difference, I don't have to drop it off or wait...I do it when I'm my convenience. ;)

    Yes, it was washed by the dealer and when it came had swirl marks and light scratches in the clear coat. I just shook my head when I saw it. What was I gonna do, have them re-wash it to make it worse? Nah...I just took it home and took care of it myself.

    I'll pass on the dealer washing, but if you're cool with all means. Kill two birds with one stone!
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Re; 38
    Watch out about killing those two birds.
    I'm an animal lover.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Floridabob1...we're gonna have to work on you taking things LITERALLY!!! It's only a figure of speech!!! I'm an animal lover myself, however...I can't stand that bird that pooped on my car, which in turn stained the paint!!! :mad: I also can't stand those birds that seem to find your car right after you've put in 3 hours washing, waxing and detailing your car!!! :sick:

    Does this mean you'll be enoying a vegetarian Thanksgiving? :P

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I'm a bird hater.
    (I also have four cats.)
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Hey Ray_h1...I knew there was something I liked about you...I've got 2 cats myself! ;)
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Member Posts: 299
    The Azera doesn't use any more oil than a new Sonata. They both take 6 quarts.
  • grayfoxgrayfox Member Posts: 166
    I changed my oil and filter at 2,000 miles, being the conservative type. I didnt need a special wrench for the filter cap. I just unscrewed it by hand. If I can do it, you younger guys (under 76) can surely do it. As was pointed out, it is not and should not be screwed on with great force. The cap is plastic.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    I fail to see how engines of two different displacements will use the same amount of oil. :confuse: If you're putting 6 quarts in the 3.3 L V-6, you're putting too much oil in. Trust your Hyundai service shop...they'll tell you.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Well...I'm 36 and I tried taking mine off as well as tightening it by hand and it didn't work. I'm not a weakling as I play football and have my own home improvement business as well. Trust me...I needed a tool to assist with the cap. Hand tightening it only took it to to the point where the "O" ring made contact with the canister housing. Using the tool I was able to take it all the way down till the flange around the cap was snug against the rim of the canister. Why exert any more energy than you have to?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    According to the respective shop manuals online, it's 6 liters (or 6.34 U.S. quarts) when draining and refilling oil along with a filter change in both the 3.3L Sonata V6 and the 3.8L V6 Azera engines. Even shop manuals aren't always correct, so check the specifications section in the back of your owner's manual. (Those aren't always correct either...)

    I hate to "crack" a bottle of oil for a fractional amount. I tend to reseal them and put them in a safe but obvious place for next time. For some reason they "move". (Couldn't be that I forget...) A year ago during an overdue garage cleaning I came across seven partial bottles of various brands and API "S" ratings (SG-SJ). I used the lot for an oil change on my four year old Sonata - disparate service ratings be hanged. (Test the boundaries - defy authority!) The only thing those remnants had in common was 10W-30 viscosity. At the end of my normal 3,000 mile oil change interval over eight months, I submitted a sample of that witch's brew for an oil analysis report. It showed the least wear, lowest amount of oxidized particulates (pre-sludge crap held in harmless suspension by the detergent additive), and the highest TBN (total base number - a measure of the old oil's remaining acid fighting capability and reserve detergent additive) of any of my reports to date. Go figure - so much for the alleged evils of mixing brands... (Reported only for y'all's amusement - I don't ordinarily engage in that reckless abandon. But, then, shoot - it's only a Hyundai. ;))
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE 40
    You have to excuse me. If I had a real life, I probably wouldn't spend so much time on these forums.
    I actually never thought about the turkey.
    Have a happy holiday to all, also.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "Well...I'm 36 and I tried taking mine off as well as tightening it by hand and it didn't work. ... I needed a tool to assist with the cap." ((

    I wonder if grayfox is like me? (My knuckles drag on the ground.)
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Member Posts: 299
    allmet33 - read post 47. Just because an engine has more displacement than another (3.3 vs. 3.8) does not mean it requires more oil.

    The Hyundai dealership changes my oil...just did it this morning as a matter of fact and I always supply my own Mobil 1 5W30 synthethic. The manual calls for a full 6 quarts which is EXACTLY what it took.

    Think you need to do more research before posting my friend ;)

    I hope you all have a very happy and safe Thanksgiving Holiday!
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaMember Posts: 233
    True - engine displacement has no correlation to the amount of oil it needs to fill. Personally, I prefer Pennzoil Platinum 5W30, but - to each his own... "It works for me!"
This discussion has been closed.