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Comments
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0510ht_fuel_economy_tuning/
I always drive in the high rpm band and I do not get fuel efficiency numbers significantly lower than the EPA values. The 2003 Honda Civic SI that I had was always driven at 5000 rpm and with the 2006 Toyota Corolla that I currently drive I try to stay at 4200 rpm (these are the rpm values that produce maximum torque according to the Edmunds site). I have read multiple citations that indicate that a diesel engine should be operated at the rpm that produces the maximum torque. For years, that is what I have done with gasoline cars (primarily because I drive smaller cars and I want to keep maximum passing power if I need it by staying in the power band - I am not very concerned about maximizing efficiency).
I would like to understand why a gasoline engine would be fundamentally different than a diesel engine. Intuitively, it makes sense to me that running the engine at the rpm that produces the maximum torque would make it the most efficient (which is about 65 % or the redline for a Corolla). Can anyone provide actual data isolating engine rpm versus fuel efficiency (that does not incoporate velocity which has clearly been theoretically and experimentally shown to decrease fuel efficiency via aerodynamic drag) for a gasoline engine to convince me to drive like a grandpa and "save" gas. Otherwise, I will be keeping my car at the maximum torque rpm range.
I'd say that a MAJORITY of 20 year olds can't drive a stick. Sell not just for now, but for later, my friend. And there's that silly forwarded email out there about the Benzo that doesn't have a steering wheel, and is joystick controlled... no room for a stick in the future, evidently. And well, my 1991 Tercel ended up spending her last year in my ownership with a bungee and a hook in fifth gear. yep, the linkages broke on it... and i could spend $400 to fix it, or use a bungee to keep it in fifth.
It may have been a lack of quality engineering, or perhaps I chilled and did the hood cruise too much and my hand broke the connection, but wow, that was disappointing to see a Toyota manual "break" just 70K into her life.
For example: go to Toyota.com and 'build' a manual Corolla. The number of packages available for the Manual are 1/2 of what the Automatic have. According to the MFG site, you can't even get Aluminum/or/Alloy wheels, or side-curtain airbags with a manual!
I've seen this at other mfg's as well, so they are the ones driving everyone to auto's vs manuals.
"In (2006), 14.3 percent of women versus just 8.5 percent of men were shopping for a stick shift. In 1985, the numbers were dramatically reversed: 4.4 percent of women versus 52.8 percent of men."
http://www.pddnet.com/scripts/ShowPR.asp?PUBCODE=045&ACCT=0006487&ISSUE=0603&REL- TYPE=PR&PRODCODE=0000&PRODLETT=B&CommonCount=0
Not to push a conspiracy theory (more a marketing theory)but I wouldn't be surprised to find that automakers are pushing automatics. As the roads grow more crowded (nice point kneisl1), and fewer manuals are being made, the economies of scale for automatics would probably improve dramatically.
Someone else suggested that producing a manual is more expensive now for automakers, and I'd not be surprised by that. I wouldn't be surprised either to find that there is a nice little profit center in the automatic sell-up ($300-$800) given the mfg's scale of production
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Nearly no one wants a manual, end of story.
If fuel economy is a priority, you get a manual transmission.
End of story.
Fuel economy is a big priority but my commute has a lot of stop and go. One slow stretch of road of about 5 miles takes me up to 45 minutes every morning. The rest of 35 miles takes another 35 minutes.
I would love a manual but it would drive me nuts having to shift manually given my longish commute.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
One fillup is not necessarily an accurate test.
That includes the wondelful winter additives that are thrown into Colorado gasoline... and a greater amount of city driving.
If you go light, keep the RPM's under 3K... and in the summer 45+mpg is very possible (a tailwind can't hurt).
I would think they would love to get rid of it cheap, but I tried to buy from them and they are a real pain.
When they do finally sell it, I bet they don't get another manual in.
They have an El-cheapo model on the lot with minimum features and a corresponding low price to lure people in. People come in, look at it, compare it's features to a higher trim level model, think about owning the car for 5 years, and figure what the heck....I don't want to crank windows for 5 years....I'll buy a higher trim model. It's the purchasers decision to buy-up.
Nothing says a dealer has to accept a lower offer than what has been published in their advertisement.
Here's what the definition is supposed to be:
Definition of bait and switch
"An illegal tactic in which a seller advertises a product with the intention of persuading customers to purchase a more expensive product."
I think the fact that this car is still around sort of proves intention...but I'm not a lawyer, so I dunno....
It's very suspicious, to say the least, that the car hasn't sold.
A car like that wouldn't last one week at "my" dealership---presuming it wasn't "silly-priced" so as to avoid selling it.
We wouldn't have 1 bedroom apartments advertised and offered in an apartment complex. We wouldn't have Sears with Good, Better, Best Paint. We wouldn't have the ability to buy 'basic' cable TV, without the Disney channels. This marketing and sales concept is throughout our society, and nothing illegal about it.
* * * * * * * * * *
Edit: added Wikipedia description of bait & switch (not that it is a legal authority on this)
In retail sales, a bait and switch is a form of fraud in which the fraudster lures in customers by advertising a product or service at an unprofitably low price, then reveals to potential customers that the advertised good is not available but that a substitute good is. The goal of the bait-and-switch is to convince some buyers to purchase the substitute good as a means of avoiding disappointment over not getting the bait, or as a way to recover sunk costs expended to try to obtain the bait. It suggests that the seller will not show the original product or product advertised but instead will demonstrate a more expensive product.
Other advertising practices, such as the use of loss leaders or the use of sales techniques to steer customers away from low-profit items, depend on many of the same psychological mechanisms as a bait and switch. In the United States, courts have held that the purveyor using a bait and switch operation may be subject to a lawsuit by customers for false advertising, and can be sued for trademark infringement by competing manufacturers, retailers, and others who profit from the sale of the product used as bait. However, no cause of action will exist if the purveyor is capable of actually selling the goods advertised, but aggressively pushes a competing product.
Likewise, advertising a sale while intending to stock a limited amount of, and thereby sell out, the loss-leading item advertised is legal in the United States. The purveyor can escape liability if they make clear in their advertisements that quantities of items for which a sale is offered are limited.
It's illegal to do this. With Sears or a cable company you CAN buy the cheapest advertised product. With bait and switch, they have no intention of selling you the "bait". Either it'll be "gone" before you get there or there will be some other obstacle. But you can buy Sears' cheap paint or basic cable, no problem, if you want it.
So really the only way we'd know on that manual tranny car is for someone to go in and try to buy it at MSRP or less.
DAs often do this, send in "plants" to test for a bait and switch. If it's a real B&S, they'll bust 'em for it.
But yes, if the dealer advertises a manual tranny Yaris for $40,000, and you want to pay that, then there's no crime involved, that's true.
IMHO, A small car, especially a subcompact with a 4 cyl, should have a manual transmission in order to get the most power out of the small engine. I've never test driven an auto Yaris, but imagine that it would be a little on the weak side with a 4-speed auto.
Thanks
What do you guys think? Is there more to it than that??
I agree, shifting one-two in a little Scion is about as hard as wiggling your finger.