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I'm leaning toward the glass packs, mainly for the size. They'll fit
up inside the frame with no problem. I just don't know how loud they'll be.............. Any suggestions would help.
1.) is it worth doing a total body off restoration?
2.) Is the car not very popular?
3.) Would it be something I could sell down the road?
4.) from an investment purpose will it be worth any money after it is restored?
Thanks for any help and it is appreciated.
1.) is it worth doing a total body off restoration? = No
2.) Is the car not very popular? = Not very popular
3.) Would it be something I could sell down the road? = Yes ?
4.) from an investment purpose will it be worth any money after it is restored? = ???
IMO the only way that car will be worth money is to restore it to original specs or as original as possible. I will tell you that the 327's are good strong motors and are getting harder to find,so that is definitely worth some money.
I have watched healthy 327's whip 409's back in the day.
Otherwise, I guess I'd page through Hemmings Motor News and get on the phone.
Back when I was in school the hood ornament got stolen off my fintail. I really wanted to replace it asap, so I went down to the local stealership to see how soon it could be ordered. They had one in stock! I paid twice what I would have paid from an independent, but I got it immediately.
I guess it's not totally passe', even now - on one of the "How It's Made" shows they followed the latest Rolls through production, part of which included testing the elevator for the retractable "Spirit of Ecstasy".
Luckily MB ornaments are fairly inexpensive...I think it was like $35 from the stealership, maybe $15 from an online seller.
I have a 1954 Cadillac Coupe deVille that I have owner since 1984. It is a good looking driver but it needs an engine overhaul due to smoke/oil issue.
Had an estimate of $5K to do the engine and am wondering if there is a cheaper alternative such as swapping the drivetrain.
I love this car but am having a little trouble convincing my wife that $5K is a good idea at this time... She is inclined to sell...
But the question is, do you need an entire rebuild? It's possible on a car like this to just overhaul the engine in place ("freshen it up") as long as the cylinders aren't egg-shaped and the crankshaft mics out okay.
Your situation is, in my opinion, a fence-sitter. On the one hand, the car is not worth all that much that you can invest heavily in it; however, putting in another engine from a different year won't hurt the value all that much.
Part of your decision depends on the condition of the rest of the car. Unless this baby is pretty sharp all around, a solid high #3 or low #2 car or better, spending $5K on it doesn't seem financial wise.
But if you love the car, then the decision isn't based strictly on dollars.
1948 Cadillac used the former "flathead" engine. The Kettering Valve in Head first appeared in the 1949 Cadillac. It had 331 c.i. and a 7.5 Compression Ratio. Behind it was a 4 speed Hydra Matic, but the Rocket 88 in the Olds was the screamer at the time.
Just post it here, we'll decode it for you.
Thanks for the info, and opinion. I have had the car's engine evaluated and it has 2 cylinders with zero compression and the others have around 100 lbs. "Tired out" is how the mechanic described it. He is looking for a possible swap but no luck so far. He is going to get back to me in a few days with pricing and options. In the mean time, I am driving it around a little and letting my son get a feel for the good old days. (He is 16 with his permit).
Thanks again,
Bill
If the engine does turn okay, then get a battery and some fresh spark plugs. Remove the old plugs and spin the engine over until the oil you put in has cleared out. Then put in new spark plugs, then STOP.
Now, drain your gas tank, put in a new fuel filter, squirt a little starter ether in the carb, and hold on to your hat as you crank it over. MAKE SURE there is someone with you to work the ignition key while YOU watch the engine for leaks, fire, whatever. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
If the engine is jammed tight, you still might be able to save it by adding MORE oil and letting it sit longer, or, worst case, pulling off the cylinder heads and rapping on the pistons with a wooden stake; however there is a chance that you will break the piston rings and you know what that means.
Even if the engine frees up, the rust might have damaged the cylinder walls.
If the engine runs okay, let it warm up for 15 minutes, then drain the old oil and add new oil and filter and that part is done. Now you have to do tires, brakes, coolant, trans fluid, etc.
Big job here but if the car is a nice one, it's worth doing.
I think Hemmings has some good archive articles on how to plan a restoration on their website at www.hemmings.com. What are your goals for this car?
You need a plan, a budget, and you need to line up your suppliers. '68 Mustang should be pretty "easy" as long as you are starting off with a decent car but if you have lots of rust, think twice.
Mechanical parts are very straightforward. You big expense is going to be bodywork and paint. If you have to farm all that out, I don't think you'll meet your $10K budget, as this is so labor intensive. But if you can do a lot of it yourself, you might be able to build a decent driver.
Yeah you can wire brush the rust but then you'll have to treat it chemically to stop it from re-occuring. Aside from paint and bodywork, the interior can get expensive, as can machine work. Brakes and suspension shouldn't be too bad, but here again you're going to have to decide how much you plan to clean up the underside of this car. That's a nasty job.
The Style Steel wheels are worth quite a bit these days, they are an example of what to restore and keep factory stock.
Also, it is recommended you join Mustang Club of America. They publish a monthly magazine, but not as extensive as "Mustang Monthly". Take your time, be authentic, & patient. Good Luck
I have to assume that since my motorcycle had an aluminum block with steel sleeves and aluminum forged pistons that the pistons were essentially welded to the bores by corrosion.
There are tricky ways to get stuck cylinder heads loose, but a stuck engine can be very troublesome.
Of course, just before you buy the new engine you can always roll the bike down the hill and pop the clutch, but usually that'll just put you over the handlebars or if you are REAL lucky, break all the piston rings.
Don't try to jump start a 14 year old battery. Buy a new one.