Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Opening our passenger side sliding door has been a worsening problem for years. It's gotten to the point where it is impossible to open from the outside, the door handle just doesn't respond. There's rust along the siding track that the other side doesn't have. Opening from the inside has gotten more difficult as well. Now my lovely wife has engaged the child safety lock switch and we cannot open the door from the outside OR the inside. Is there a way to disengage the switch? Other than Toyota, where should I take it for repair? A body shop or a regular car repair shop? Thanks.
Here are the symptoms:
It operates when I shift into parking. When I say operates I mean if it is closed it will open when I shift into park or when it is open it will close when I shift into park.
It will always operate when I use the remote or the door lever but does not work with any of the inside buttons.
Does anyone has any idea of what is going on?
They offered pay half for the part, so instead of $1600, it will cost $1200 to fix. Well, thanks very much for your generosity! We have to do something. It's ridiculous.
Has this happened to anyone?? Can the auto doors be converted safely to manual doors that run smoothly?
Does anyone want to start a class action law suit? It appears that a ton of toyota owners are having the same issues....maybe they will listen to that instead of charging $1800 per door to fix.
The convenience of having a power sliding door is not worth it.
Not happy that it broke in the first place, but at least the problem is solved.
I am sure if I had taken it to the dealer they would have gouged me.
I've attempted limited trouble-shooting: I disconnected/reconnected the battery in hopes that any disruption in the circuitry would be cleared, but no change to the situation.
In summary: The door motor stops functioning if interrupted by the ignition place in "start" prior to the door fully opening or closing. Once we manually close the door, the system resets and works normally. As long as we avoiding operating the door at the same time as we are starting the van, there is no problem, but I'd like to find a solution before it stops working all together. Ideas?
Also, don't forget that your vehicle uses the same type of carbon steel airline cable to hang the spare tire under the car. That, however, is subject to a recall. Toyota is exposed to legal liability if the spare falls off on the highway and becomes a projectile other startled drivers have to try to avoid hitting.
I did get a recall on my spare tire and it has been corrected.
Thank you for your input.
Please be sure to call Toyota, let them know you want a recall.
NHTSA looks for patterns of problems, if everyone complains, and there are enough people who do, Toyota will be forced to do something about it.
call, call, call!!
In the meantime I am putting in my complaint with Toyota!
Does anyone have any diagrams of the door. I think it can be fixed with larger screws and washers. I am thinking of offering the job to someone off CL as I am a single mom that uses her van for driving kids home from school and I NEED both doors to work!
I am a lady, so bear with my questions...
1) I remove the old screws with the star screw driver.
2) take them to the hardware store and get three that are longer - How much longer?
3)cone shaped washers vs flat washers. why wouldn't I use a flat washer?
I am hoping for the best!
The part is 85620-08061, according to a another person who had this problem, he said he said he fixed it himself for $103.00. He said to go to Tundra Solutions and follow the instructions. I went to the website and read about it, if I were a mechanic, I guess I could fix it, but I am not.
Hope this helps. The best to you.
I really hate toyota... used to be a toyota fan... not anymore.
This van has so many little problem that will cost you $$$$ to fix.
I just took mine to the dealer for oil change, they said the transmission oil is leaking, break fluid is leaking, gasket is leaking, power steering is leaking etc.
It will cost me 6000 to fix this 2004 van. However, when i took it to an independent mechanic, he said it is just moistures, no big deal. Go figure out, i think they are just trying to scam the consumer.
Oh, i have called the toyota customer service, NHTSA etc since 2007 when problems ( TOO MANY PROBLEM TO LIST) start surfacing ....
None of them will help you.
====>This sounds like the problem I had. Two of the three bolts on the rear latch of the sliding door had pulled through the sheet metal, preventing the rear part of the door from latching. I used two washers and slightly longer bolts. I left the piece of sheet metal that had pulled through in place to position the bolts. The order on the new bolts is, new washer (slightly bigger than the hole, small cone shaped washer that is actully the sheet metal that pulled through, and insert into hole. The threads start so deep inside the door that you will need longer bolts than what came with the car to accomodate the new washers. Even though I used hex head bolts (easier to get in), and the bolts stick out more than the original, there is room and they do not hit anything when the door closes. I did not weld anything and it just took a few minutes. The door works as well as new. Tools required: star screw driver to remove the orignal bolts and hex wrench set to install new bolts. Tools and part are available at most hardware stores. Since I had both tools, it was less than a $5 repair and stronger than the original.
2) long enough to accommodate the new flat washers. This will be less than 1/4" but as I recall, there is enough space inside the door that 1/2" longer than original will not hit anything and should work just fine. Remember I did this over 2 years ago but that is what I remember.
3) The cone washer is the piece of metal that broke out of the sheet metal and is still on the bolt when you pull the bolt out. You don't need to buy this as you will already have it when you undo the bolt. This is used to center the bolt as it is the exact diameter as the hole it came out of. You will need to buy the flat washer to go under the bolt head and it must be slightly larger than the hole in the door.
This repair has held up just fine for over 2 years and is stronger than the original connection. Good luck!
2004 Sienna, passenger slider won`t unlock......can`t do it with the key, can`t do it manually from interior. The interior lock/unlock mechanism is loose and appears to be pushed out from the inner door. Is there any way to open this door or fix this from the inside? Looking at the other door, it appears to have access by backing out the interior jam screws....but I cant open door to access those. Any ideas other than paying big bucks at a dealer or body shop? Thanks all, JW
1. Hit the manual/auto switch inside the van to disengage the open/shut buttons for the door.
2. There is a cable that runs from the front of the middle track through the door motor assembly and then to the back of the middle track. This is what the motor pulls on to open and close. You need to cut this cable to release the door from the motor. It will now work like a non-motorized door and will open and close easily. There is a bracket at each end of the cable. You can remove the bracket or leave them there. Whatever is easier. You would also have to cut the cable where it goes into and out of the door so there is nothing hanging when you are done.