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nothing wrong with maroon....whoop..gotta love them aggies
the bazookas..man i heard one in a buddy of mines 2001 super crew..damn sounded awesome and their pretty damn cheap too!!!!!!
True to each other... As Aggies cam be...
leathal02, you can get an 'Aggies' hitch cover from MyTruckStore.com at the following:
They also have the generic ones like the bowties (no gold ones) and light up ones. Just check out the index.
Got a question for ya.
What do you do for your washing and waxing?
Especially, what do you do when you find very minor scratches (see but can't feel with fingernail) in the clearcoat?
What products do you find to be the one to use and where can these products be found?
Ok,ok,ok, so I got several questions.
My truck is a two tone deal with Indigo blue above trim and pewter below. You can see these minor scratches in the blue when the sun hits just right.
Been to www.carcareonline.com and www.autosupermart.net and found some really good info. Just like to hear your two bits.
Thanks, good day,
You find the answers to your questions at this link:
To remove your scratches use the Ultra-Fine Polishing Cleaner followed by Malms Concentrated Carnuba Wax. These may be ordered at this link:
Another option may be found at this link:
you can find testimonials and a lot of help under the Maint/Repair conference in Edmunds under Zaino users topic #1319 Zaino Car Care Experiences - Part 2 found at this link:
Hope this helps ya!!
I had the same problem with the windshield trim when I installed the bug shield. At first the dealer did not want to fix it so I called the salesman and asked him to talk to the service dept. They used urethane adhesive to seal it. That took care of the problem.
The a/c problem sounds like a relay.
If you think the belt is causing the clicking spray a little water on it while the truck is running. (from a spray bottle) If the clicking stops you have a bad belt. If it doesn't it's not the belt. The 8 coils won't click unless you have a bad spark plug wire. The injectors will though. Bottom line - let the dealer figure it out.
Hope this helps.
TIMH: Dump you current deflector and get another.
Mine is made by "Prime Design" and it works great. Close fit but you can still clean the hood all the way and it wraps all the way around to protect the top of the fenders. As far as your other problems go, take it to the nearest dealer and have them fix it. All that stuff is covered 'cept maybe the ping and then OBYONE's advice as to going with a hotter firing plug might solve it.
KIRK: I know before I put on my fiberglass running boards, I was really crushing the seat each time I got into my rig. With them I can step up and sit down easlily with no problems. If you don't already have them, think about it, it might help.
SUNROOFS: IMHO I would stay away from them if GM didn't install it. I've seen too many leaky interiors and/or wind noise with aftermarket installations. Once you cut that hole in your roof...your stuck!
Clicks.....it's got to be something in the ignition or injectors....it's not lifters of exhaust gaskets....I know what that sounds like..
Oby pretty much summed it up......I like malms..and have used it long before Zaino was ever even heard of....not to say Zaino isn't good...just I like Malms look better.
The ultrafine polish is great for what you mentioned....the #10 polish is great for black and dark colors that are already spotless. The wax goes a long way with just a small bit. People always cake wax on...no good....a super thin layer is all that is going to go on..period. Good looking cars come in the polish stage...the wax part just protects it from the elements.
If you don't want to pay that much...Meguires Polish followed by #26 yellow wax is also a very good choice. If I had pewter,white,or another light color...I would not spend the money on malms or Zaino.
I have two black cars and use two different systems for them.
Malms for truck....3M hand glaze for the car....Galze only does one thing...enhance the shine...sometimes I put a coat of Malms on the Olds.
While even a combination Cleaner/wax works well...I would not use it on a dark truck...especially if it needed a good polish.
I know yawl have heard this before...but hey..he asked!!
If GM does not offer one by 2002...I will get the ASC...(wholesale of course)...and have it installed by pros I know who do GM show and concept cars...$1200 is OK for Regular off the street Joes.....but I am farr from Regular ..or Joe!
A chamois or a high pressure air hose to dry the car off works very well.
you may be on to something on the zerks. I called the service advisor to ask the tech how many zerks did he install. Called me back and told me six or seven but no where near the eleven. I asked why did he pay the $50. He said that he figured I knew the truck as well as he did and didn't want to look anymore for the rest. He had spent over half an hour looking. Hmm...I guess I'll have to use a rack at a friends shop and check it out over the weekend. May end up costing me the refund of $50 and another $50 since there may not be 11 after all.
depends on whether your dealer does it or not. When buying my silverado dealer prepped and polished. Two weeks later when the truck was dirty, I did the Dawn,clay,Dawn,Z1,Z5,Z6,Z2,Z6 over a weekend. When buying my Denali, I specifically told the Sales Manager NOT to detail the truck rather to clean the windows, fill up the tank, and make sure the fluid levels including tires were ok. So that forced me to do the Zaino thing that night as the truck was pretty bad, covered with overspray mixed with dirt,rail dust, and everything else.
Since the paint and clear are heat treated (baked) on, there would be no reason to wait. It is only after getting it back from an autobody shop that one would have to wait a month or so until the paint cures. Some of the autobody shops now "bake" the paint on also. Once "baked" paint is pretty much cured. That is why when prepping, the dealer cleans and waxes the truck.
I'll usually polish after a rainy period. During summer when the rain is scarce, ususally every two weeks or when really lazy have it detailed with Zaino. The first time my detailer used Zaino, he was rather impressed with the results, however, the process takes too long for him to use effectively. For my truck he will usually clean, then Z2, Z6. I would recommend that you have your truck detailed once or twice a year. The job that these guys do is very detailed, cleaning every crack and crevice. Makes the truck seem new again.
My theory on toppers...well they don't work for me 'cause I want to put tall stuff back there, stand up in the bed etc. My S10 Blazer you could fold the seats down for poor man's convertible pickup/topper. Still can't stand up, can't put tall things back there, does keep them dry. Don't want to have to crawl under a topper either. It never rains here anyway. When it does, it evaporates without hitting the ground. Gimme the Carmine Red with open bed. If I need the topper, I need a Yukon/Tahoe.
Ryan got his Zaino, Red got his all season 35 psi air.
And now it's time to do it all over again, spread the sunscreen, pound the fence posts, swat the gnats, harass the gophers. I'll get a copy of the minutes and be Onstar next Tuesday...same Bat time...same Bat channel.
Hold my calls....
all - yeah, my placemarks aren't working either. says something about that on the town hall home page...they're having problems with it. damn! gotta REMEMBER all the topics i like now...
waxing...there is no set amount how much to do..but 2 times a year sounds good...more polishing is OK if you really are a fanatic. I used to go nuts on the Olds and had to re-paint it after several years..due to the fact I made some spots too thin!....Polish will do that more than wax...course wax does not shine a car either...
How long?....some say wait a few months for teh paint to cure...not sure that is true anymore?...I waited a long time...Bought it in Aug99...just did it 5-7 weeks ago for first time?...I'm still anal about what I use..just too damn busy to lose that much time to do it right...ya know?
1.5 years after you buy a truck at my dealer..they call you up..and wash/wax/detail for free..(basically seeing if you are ready to buy another car). I don't know if I will let them wax it or not?...I had it prepped..and it did look very good. We will see
I washed my truck wednesday evening. Thursday came and went NO RAIN!!!!! Wow i dont even believe it.
I don't agree with polish without waxing. The polish is an abrasive and cuts through the protective wax layer. That leaves the paint open to the elements and more oxidation, etc. Wax is much faster than polishing, so I wax after any polishing.
And as long as only the wax layer has been exposed to the elements, fresh wax can restore the shine by softening the existing wax and placing new wax onto it. Polish only a couple of times a year, wax as often as you want, weekly if you feel like it. Just don't use too much wax.
TIM: Yeah, I agree, you sure don't want to put seat covers over leather! I'm not that tall (5-10) and my wife is only 5-4 so putting running boards on was at her insistance, but I have to admit it makes it so much easier to get in and out now without crushing those high corners of the bucket seats. Nerf bars, single steps, running boards, all will get the job done...I wanted something that would match and blend in with the truck.
I wouldn't wax a brand new car or truck until you have at least 30 days past the build date. Advice given to me by many custom paint shops.
I said more polishing is OK if you are a fanatic...I meant the whole shebang more than 2 times a year...not just the polish part...I should have not said polishing...GRRRR
I agree that polish should always be followed by wax..but if later on you have swirl marks or whatever to remove...another coat of wax may not do the job.
I never said just polish and not wax. I use Glaze only on the Olds most of the time..but that paint never has seen Rain and does not sit in the sun either...so there is no problem there if I don't wax that..as the glaze does offer some water protection...(for washing)
I never claimed to be an expert...but I do know a bit about this..
anyone think tims pissed?
Most of the stuff on an LT is what I want anyway...but things like no slider and 2 tone..cuz some suit thinks it should be that way bug me...
I remember my dad used to always get extended Ram Vans....in order to get X package..he had to get the rear opening window...which says right on it that it can't be open when moving...cuz the exhaust would get sucked in...
GM..not all LT owners want your onstar crap!
I just called Dave Smith Motors this morning and with a sale price at invoice, my Boeing discount (now at ~$318), dealer prep (~$217), and an advertising fee of (~$270), my total cost would be around $169 above invoice. $1,000 deposit required.
Just for fun, when I was on the phone with Dave Smith Motors, I went thru the cost of ordering a new 2001 Silverado 1500 Z-71 with all of the options I wanted, fees and discounts. It came to a total of $28,000 + tax.
When I do the same invoice price comparison on the internet (NADA), including all of the same options and then including fees and discounts, the price I get is $27,176.
Something is not matching up here! The Dave Smith price looks to be $824 over what it should be!
What I need to do is see the exact invoice price he is using on the base price and options, and see where the differences are.
I will definitely still shop around locally for a good deal. I don't like the Dave Smith $1,000 deposit or the price difference compared to the internet.
The no 2 tone on the LT is dumb i dont understand that one
I didnt pay for a deal prep or ad fee or doc fee nothin but the truck is what i paid for
It is really neat. My wife and I are driving everything in sight. She out drove me on the acceleration test in a new Lexus. Wow. Got to go drive some more.
The most common complaint in all makes of trucks is how horrible their post sale experience has been with their service dept.
Check your paperwork carefully, are you sure you didn't pay for any of those "hidden" costs (dealer prep, advertising fee)?
I found why the difference in price from the NADA web site and the Dave Smith Motors quote. The NADA site did not include the $941 for automatic transmission option, it thinks it is standard.
The local Everett Chevrolet service department has been great in taking care of my 1989 Silverado. They've done a good job in fixing any problem that come up.....well except one.
They only temporarily fixed this problem that I get when I come to a stop. When I come to a stop and have my foot still on the brake, everything seems normal. As soon as I just slightly release the brake a little, and before I step on the gas pedal, I get this jolting feeling and sound from the rear, like someone just lightly ran into the back of my truck. Could it be the rear springs returning to original position after I come to a stop? It's annoying and loud.
Any ideas / suggestions?
Glad to see you were not stiffed for those extra costs. When I check with local dealers for the best price, I'm going to demand to see what the actual bottom line price is going to be, including all potential extra costs and our @!#%!!* high 8.3% sales tax.
When I do get my 2001 Z-71, thanks to all of you guys, I'm going to customize it with Lund Interceptor, Westin CPS, and Eagle Alloys Series 118 wheels (polished aluminum).
Check these babies out: http://www.americaneaglewheel.com/118.htm
Only $168 each locally.
It still does it even if I keep the truck in first gear and come to a stop. And definitely feels like it is coming from the rear of the truck. Maybe I need some of that new blue juice in my differential.
Damn 8.3% tax. Mine was 5% WOOHOO
or a new set of gears...
Seems to me that they mentioned something about lubricating a specific part of my drive shaft? .....sounds kinda personal don't a think, I usually leave that kind of service for my wife to do. But I think that is what they said they did.
I'll take it back there for another attempted fix before I sell it and get my new 2001 Z-71. I'm sure I'll miss that ole '89 Silverado with her 5.7L and 210 hp at 4,000 RPMs and 300 ft lbs @ 2800 RPMs......ya right!
Chevy, through their website sells a hitch cover with an small integrated Chevy Bowtie brake light. It is located in the "Chevy Mall" section.