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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs



  • swycallisswycallis Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 C230.
    I fixed the problem by changing passenger room air filter (open batterie cover and you can pull the filter out) Mine was black and never touched by the experienced MB people . Also added a little R14 AC fluid. Everything works fine now.
    rgds Steve
  • tjeqtjeq Posts: 2
    The car is making a terrible rattle/pop screech sound when we first turn it on and put it in reverse. It does this whenever we put it in reverse. We took it to a repair person who "specializes" in Mercedes, since we don't have dealership where we live, and he said he didn't hear it. IMPOSSIBLE. It is noisy and embarassing. Also air conditioner just stops blowing air for no reason and after a few minutes just starts up again. Any thoughts?
  • amrharrisamrharris Posts: 1
    I have a C230 Sport with 66,000 miles (2006) and the check engine light came on. The dealer in Memphis says that it is the balance shaft due to the sprocket and I would like to know if that is the same thing as the soft cam gear??Either way the part is inside the engine and the dealer wants me to pay $5000 most of which is labor because the engine will have to be completely broken down and put back together. I told the dealer are you crazy???That means the part was defective from the manufacturer. Anyone else encountered this or a similiar problem??For that price I might as well trade it in....
  • speedshiftspeedshift Posts: 1,598
    Just wondering if anyone who owns the latest generation C has has a problem with the rear doors continually rattling. My 2008 C300 has had rattles and clunks from the rear passenger compartment since day one. At first I thought it was maybe the headrests. I mentioned it when I brought the car in for service, and the Mercedes mechanic wrote on the workorder that he'd "adjusted" and "lubed" the rear doors. Didn't fix the rattles, which are more-or-less constant over all but the smoothest roads and under braking and acceleration, particularly shifting (the car has a six speed). The clunks do sound like the windows moving, and maybe the rattles are the door panels. I can't believe the body is flexing that much, almost like they forgot to install a structural brace. I doubt it's that, but it's either the doors aren't installed properly or some kind of design defect. Anybody have any experience with this, or any ideas?
  • msinglemsingle Posts: 1
    My car is doing the same thing you are explaining. Did you ever find out what the sound was and why your A/C was acting up? I'm just trying to figure out if I should get rid of the car or take it in.

  • tjeqtjeq Posts: 2
    Nobody seems to know what is wrong. We are frustrated.
  • ucheoucheo Posts: 1
    Electrical problem
    1998 Mercedes Benz C230 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

    my car had an accident,
    after woking on it it developed problems like
    1. current seizing which makes the car not to turn on
    2. bad gear selection
    3.mechanics said it could be pis problem or key line problem which they said key must come with a brainbox and ignition

    pls i am really confused and need a solution to the problem cos they car is parked down

    thank you so much
  • Steve:
    This problem sounds similar to what I'm experiencing. When we pull up to a stop the temperature of the a/c air rises (probably to outside ambient.). When we drive down the road a/c seems to run ok. From your message, I suspect a bad interior air filter. But I don't know where it is (our battery is in the trunk). Any ideas?
  • do any one know where i can find one that dont cost a arm and leg
  • I have a 2003 C230 Kompressor. In the past 3 weeks (it hasn't started) I've changed the alternator (three times due to faulty rebuilt alternators and bad voltage regulator), so, new alternator, new voltage regulator, new battery (fully charged) and 3 weeks later my car STILL will not start. It cranks over once and that's it. I don't know where the starter is located to see if maybe that is the problem. Any ideas before I take it to the stealer??? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Okay first off you have to clarify your terms. For most of us:

    "crank" means turning the engine over with the starter, not the actual running of the engine.

    "start" means the actual running of the engine.

    So, to clarify, you are saying that your engine doesn't crank fast enough, or cranks very little--it isn't being turned over by the starter motor?

    Or are you saying it cranks and cranks and cranks but will not start?

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  • It cranks very little. It doesn't crank over and over nor does it make any clicking sounds. When I turn the key for about a second it sounds like it's trying to start and then nothing. The car was running fine until 3 weeks ago when the new alternator was put in, turns out it was a faulty alternator, which had to be replaced and somehow my battery drained during the process, so it also has a new battery which is fully charged.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Well okay, what I would do is jump start the car, and then test to see if the alternator is at least charging, using a simple voltmeter on the battery terminals. If it's charging, then I'd test the battery with a load test. A drained battery is often killed if it goes completely dead and even a good alternator cannot bring it back to life.

    The starter is the last thing I'd suspect.

    Usually a tip off to a bad starter is when you jump start the car, and even with assistance from another car, the engine barely cranks and the battery cables become too hot to touch after only a few cranks. That means the starter is dragging.

    By all means, after testing the alternator and load-testing the battery (if it's more than 3 years old, it is suspect just from old age, and over 5 years old, definitely suspect), then make sure your battery cables are clean AND secure on both ends (that is, in all 4 places where the cables attach to something).

    The basis for any accurate diagnosis is NEVER assume that because something is new or rebuilt, that it is good.

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  • We've tried to jump start the car with two different vehicles, it BARELY cranks. We have had the battery tested twice since we got the new alternator, they keep telling me it's a good battery. I called a local MB mechanic and tried to explain the problem, he told me to lock and unlock my car 3 times to reset the car. Needless to say, it didn't work. That's the only information he gave me and told me to bring it in. I've checked all fuses, wires, no corrosion, the battery cables are clean and on tight. I have NO idea where to look now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Well you can still be fooled if someone is using cheap jumper cables. Best thing to do is put a fresh battery directly in, as one last test. If it still cranked slowly, and the cables got hot real fast, then I'd go with the starter theory.

    OR---your engine could be starting to seize.

    Has anyone been using copious amounts of starting ether/fluid?

    That's bind your engine (temporarily, don't freak out).

    Starting ether is a solvent that washes all the oil off the cylinders.

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  • Change the mechanics, they are nil!

    It is a rather common problem with the merc auto gear boxes. Most likely the conductor plate needs changing ($1,000); if you are lucky it may be just the sensor or some contamination from the radiator (may be established in the inspection).

    Good luck
  • If the clanking noise comes from steering (full lock) when reversing, then it is the steering rack. I have the same issue after a shunt and I am battling the insurance/dealer....

    For the air con, ask that grease monkey to plug in the diagnosis tools and check the error code; it is possible that you had the air con on while keeping the windows open
  • i bought a used mercedes 01 and i had to change the battery on it and now the stereo is asking me for a code that i dont have does anyone knows how can i find this code thanks...
  • head gaskets; the fuel chit-chat is debilitating: all refineries have the same process for the various octane fuel. Forget the additives bed-time stories.
  • put the 4 grand on a Lexus / Accura / Audi / BMW.
  • the change of breaks, exhausts, tyres do not count in the equation of the warranty preservation; only the SERVICE counts (and that in the USA. In Europe, the warranty is not affected if the right service steps / procedures are carried out).

    The only thing you will loose will be the Mobilo breakdown recovery (if you do not service in the MoB network)
  • Jesus Christ! Holly Moses!!Almighty Allah!!

    This is a $33 part that takes 20 mins to screw on (including refilling of the gerabox)!!!! This is borderline criminal!!!
  • I am currently in the process initiating a legal case (with sweet overwhelming evidence) against MB UK and a large franchise dealer.

    The case is complex (both insurance and and supported by substatiated evidence.) and the claim is supported by one of the best legal firms in UK.

    I am interested to find people out there (USA or Europe) with issues with their MB's shortly after their warranty expired (the famous 50-50 'settlement of the bills) so that I can push for a class action (my lawyers will decide on the base of the evidences)

    Transmission, electrics & electronics, steering racks issues, all welcome.



    PS I am already checking on Lexus (IS) and BMW (Alpina D3). These are A-'class' cars not
  • My garage told me I need to replace both Oxygen a cost of $1400.00 I can purchase Bosch Oxygen Sensors for less than $200.00 each. Can they be replaced myself easily and do I have to reflash the memory as recommended by the garage?
  • rdf63rdf63 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 C230 with 93,000 and the engine light came on. Before going to a dealership and getting consumed try the following because it worked for me. I purchased Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner and put it in the gas tank when it was almost empty. I drove the car for about one week and the check engine light went off. The reason was the Fuel System cleaner works well to keep the gas clean and as a mechanic told me, it often takes 15 - 20 cycles (drives) before the engine light corrects itself. It took about 5 days for the problem to stop but hope this experience helps.
  • rdf63rdf63 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 C230 with 93,000 and the engine light came on. Before going to a dealership and getting consumed try the following because it worked for me. I purchased Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner and put it in the gas tank when it was almost empty. I drove the car for about one week and the check engine light went off. The reason was the Fuel System cleaner works well to keep the gas clean and as a mechanic told me, it often takes 15 - 20 cycles (drives) before the engine light corrects itself. It took about 5 days for the problem to stop but hope this experience helps.
  • I have a C230 Kompressor 1999 model, on the instument cluster there is a warning light coming some times and then not while driving. The idication says BAS ASR, I think it has something to do with the traction control, but are not sure. Any advise.
  • My air compressor won't come on. Checked the charge, looks to be in the high range, so not low. Checked fuses, both A/C fuses are OK. Any suggestions, besides $95/hr at the dealership to find the problem?
  • Before changing a weak battery, computer wasn't allowing transmission to shift, among other things. New battery cleared that but now hazard lite and master door lock buttons don't work and mechanic can't reset service due readout in spite of using his 'key'. Instrument motor(s) were acting up too, but don't hear that now.
    SRS lite on too, which traces to driver's buckle, although seems ok.
  • dpt1dpt1 Posts: 1
    recently bought a used C 230 for my son with 40,000 miles still under factory warranty, a couple days ago it started responding as if it was in sport setting or like a manual transmission even in the comfort setting. when you take your foot off the accelerator or coast down a hill, there is a pull on the engine, like it is still engaged, much like you feel with a manual transmission. took it back to the dealer who drove it and of course said it was running fine and just as it is supposed to, but im not stupid. ive owned mercedes, BMW, hummers, ford, dodge, subaru and the list goes on and i can tell when the engoine is still engaged, my thought is in an automatic it shouldnt be if you are coasting in the comfort or auto setting with it in drive, it shouldnt pull on the engine like a manual when you let off the gas. any help?
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