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I am having the exact same probelm. I have a 2006 c230 sport with 69,000 miles. Check Engine light came on and my dealer tells me it's most likely a gear on the Balance Shaft thats broken, which in turn will damage the timing chain etc. They want to do the same thing-take apart the engine and replace it. They say I'm looking at about $5000!!
Can you please tell me what you ended up doing, and/or if and what they fixed??
Thanks..
Having the same problem. Can you tell me what it was. It sounds like it happened a couple of years ago.
You can reply to my Email at jstnl@yahoo.com
Thank you Very much
My car 1999 C230 its Mas air sensor is located as you look into the car the air intake tube is on the driver side of the car, leading from the Throttle body it look like a roller coaster tube. At the end of this tube is the Mass air Sensor! you will need a flat head screw driver, in my opinion I get original equipment manufactured part for the car! Now looking down on the driver side of the between the head light and radiator is the sensor using the flat head screw driver unscrew the clamp after that are two clamps one on each side of this sensor pull up on the clamps, after doing that to remove the Mass air sensor last is the sensor on the side of the tube, it has a wiring coming from the sensor be careful not to pull out the wires, their are two stages of the sensor one part is screwed in the sensor and the other is where the power line are attached now hold the tube and gently pull head which will come off at the top of the sensor with the wires attach and just repeat the reverse to pull the replacement back on the car! If you see oil in this area wipe out the area and then replace the sensor. By the I am owner of the same car I am not a mechanic so be careful :confuse: if your not sure don't do it!
I had the same problem with my 1999 c230 what I did was change oil use higher grade synthetic oil and make sure to use Mercedes radiator coolant which is very different from the regular coolant its clear not green. this help me just passing along my experience. tell did this help! :surprise:
My problem was the oil separator my 1999 C230 I changed it now the car run like a monster
I purchased this car last year and I was so proud of my purchase, what I found out was that will we all have trouble with our car its like that so the company car make their money. So my story is I changed my Mass air sensor, Oil separator, Throttle actuator, and two oxygen sensor, belt tensioner, all hoses, Filters, just by reading your comment my car run like a dream thanks to your comment but my gas tank use to give me wrong readings the parts department guy told me don't top off the tank, and I have not had a problem with that again! So everybody good luck with your car an enjoy it! Like my grand father told me! Everybody can buy a Mercedes, But can you maintain a Mercedes! :sick:
According to the MB Dealer in Bakersfield, Ca. the problem is the transmission internal speed sensor which will need a complete valve body which will cost me $2,300 at this MB Dealer. This dealership has acknowledged that many 2006-2007 C230's have had the similar transmission problems and they have repaired many. I then went to a European car center which works on mercedes and they too said that they have repaired about ten 2006-2007 C230's with the same problem within the beginning of this year. I find it very difficult to believe that there has not been a recall!!!! Every mercedes blog and forum on the internet is filled with 06-07 C230 Transmission problems dealing with the transmission internal speed sensor and the entire valve body. The error code reads a transmission internal speed sensor error....so why do I have to replace the entire valve body? I have read other owners have had the same problem and only had to replace the transmission internal speed sensor not the entire valve body. What do I do guys? Can anyone help? How do we start a recall? I do not have the $2,300 for the repair. Any suggestions?
I had the same problem at 68000 miles. After I've replaced several sensors, including camshaft sensors etc., they finally ruled that the problem must be deep insided the engine. They took the engine completely apart, replaced a gear, the balance shaft and the timing chain. Total repair was over 5000 dollars, including 4000 dollars in labor. I had no choice but to get it fixed. I've pleaded with mercedes to pay for the repairs, but they only agreed to pay 1000 for parts.
Now, not even half a year later, there's another problem. When I'm in first or second gear and gently(as in normal driving) press on the gas pedal the car sometimes chockes for a split second and then accelerates abruptly. I'm afraid to even find out what that's about. I'm seriously considering just getting rid of the car. Especially after reading all these other posts with similar problems.
Quick question whats the trick to tightening the 4 alternator mounting bolts, so the unit does not bind, does not seem to mount flush, same unit I took off just had it rebuilt
Tnx
Barry
The service manager John and his boss said that this is very rare to have happened but I went straight to the internet and found out differently.
Now, the work that Laguna Niguel Mercedes-Benz Dealership did, 8 months later and only 4200 miles since that repair, I need a new intake manifold and #2 exhaust Valve that is not seating. Another $2825.18 to fix this now!
The Dealership said they never toughed any of those things while working on the engine however the invoice they gave me says differently!
Add me to the Class Action Law Suit...please!!!
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But that's not really important---the car is definitely not worth repairing if it's a mid 90s C class sedan. I don't think parting it out is a good way to go, since that could take forever and there's not really a big demand for parts.
I'd say the only market appeal is as a "fixer-upper" for someone who wants a hobby, is good with wrenches, or maybe who has a wrecked one with a good engine.
If it were a C320 convertible, it might be worth saving.
I'd put it on craigslist for $1500 and see what happens.
Old key can't be reset and I would need a new key $370 + $900 for some kind of key reader that is placed on steering column!
When asked why replacing $900 part that works fine with spare key. Their answer was a bit confusing. Supposedly that device (chip) is working but they predict it might die. However, no one knows when or what may cause it to die, it could die in few days or 10 years. And they assume it could happen when programming that $370 new key. In that case I would have to get 2 new keys and that part.!!!
Since when do you have to be responsible for mechanics mistakes.?
Few months ago I had Engine light on and I was told that I need to replace Cam Shafts Solenoids O2 sensors and Main Computer. When asked, why computer, they've tried hard to explain that Computer is BRAIN OF ENGINE when spotting drop of oil in connector casing it needs to be replaced. Total cost would be ~$5,600.00. Even though computer was performing well, car was running fine besides Cam Shaft small leek and o2 sensors which triggered ENGINE LIGHT. I've politely thank them for their concerns and took my car back. I got myself $4.99 box of cue tips and cleaned computer slot connections thoroughly and ignored engine light.
Until today, when dealing with this key issue I found out that MB has RECALL on Camshaft Solenoids and Chain Belt.( just saved ~$5000) !!!
If anyone has same problem with a key please let me know.
Have you taken your car in to have the charging system checked to make sure the alternator is charging. There may be a ground issue or something related to the alternator to give you the intermittent "check engine" light. I would also look at the tension of the serpentine belt if it's giving you this noise when you start the car.
Shay35 :shades:
Shay35 :confuse:
AIR MASS METER - removal:
Air mass meter is located on the rear of the air cleaner cover on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Unplug the electrical wiring from the sensor by turning the union nut anti-clockwise until it is felt to disengage and then separating the two halves of the connector. Slacken the hose clip at the engine side of the sensor, then pull off the inlet ducting. Release the spring clips at the air cleaner side of the sensor and remove the sensor. Recover the O-ring seal. Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Time to do the job is about 10 minutes or less.
The mechanic says it is the first time he sees this case. It's been more than a month trying to find the reason but he thinks it is not the transmission, and the computer does not mark any code.
Can anybody help me? Has someone else had the same issue?
Thank You.
There is a trick how to do that.