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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs

We recently purchased a basic C-230 (not Kompressor). After approximately 5,000 miles we noticed blue smoke from the exhaust upon ignition. We also realized from then on our car runs similarly to a diesel truck, a freight train (including all the vibrations), or dirtbike. We only use the most premium Shell or Amaco gasoline, and even purchase the highest grade fuel from varying gas stations to make sure an additive, etc isn’t contributing to the rumbling and smoke. The Leith Raleigh service department told us a variety of excuses for the problem ranging from the ‘head gaskets’ aren’t sealed the first 10k miles
to the blue smoke is really ‘steam’ coming out of the exhaust after the car sits all night. They also warned us against using Shell gasoline (which we don’t anyway). We are just wondering if anyone else has had this experience and what the possible REAL causes might be. Please help!!! Thanks!!!!
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My question is....could this be related to the gas cap OR is directly related to air mass flow sensor.
Feedback is appreciated. :sick:
Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
Let me know what happens.
Good luck.
Battery.....good
Brake fluid....full
fuse.....................CANNOT FIND ??????
Thats what I need for now....where is the fuse located? I've already looked under the hood in the fuse box....not there.
Also need to know how many sensors.....1 per wheel or only the front ?
How about on the differential ???
I'll pull the wheels and get to the sensors soon. Plan on checking the connections and cleaning them up ......hopefully thats the problem.
OK....any advice/inputs ?????
Obviously saved a bunch of $$$$$ over the Mega Buck dealer.
You can get Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner on www. performanceproducts.com
Product Number #883593 Price is 9.95 plus S&H
Thanks,
Steve
I went to my local dealer (little rock AR) and traded my 240 for the 230. the 230 only had 10K miles on it and was used as a loaner car for others having work done to their cars. I got full warrenty on the 230 and am very happy with it. One of the keys had a crack on it and the dealer replaced it without any hesitation.
I would consider doing a trade out for a 07 model the dealer may have in order to keep your vehicle in warrenty.
Thanks
In fact real mechanical technicians use a suction device to remove all the transmission oil before changing. They are that careful to avoid entry of moisture.
You shouldn't even consider adding even a little bit of brake fluid from a can that has been opened! I learned that on the first Porsche I owned back in 1965 :shades:
We tried replacing the board that holds the bulbs and that wasn't it? The message still appears. Any thoughts?
Let me know what you think.
Txs Art
Yeah you know this all does sound related and I'm here thinking....what component could cause all of this to happen?
I came up with two ideas, one vague, one more concrete.
Vague: A glitch in the wiring harness from the headlight to a connector or junction box further up on the firewall.
Concrete: Your headlight switch itself or the connector that plugs into it.
Yeah you know this all does sound related and I'm here thinking....what component could cause all of this to happen?
I came up with two ideas, one vague, one more concrete.
Vague: A glitch in the wiring harness from the headlight to a connector or junction box further up on the firewall.
Concrete: Your headlight switch itself or the connector that plugs into it. You might say "but the fuse has power"...but I don't know a) if it fuses before the switch (don't have a diagram of it) and b) if there is a low beam fuse and a high beam fuse. Maybe that fooled us.
The computer is measuring a vapor leak or it "thinks" there is a leak because the pressure does not change AS IT SHOULD.
To test the car by yourself, do the following:
1. clear Check Engine light.
2. fill up your tank TO THE TOP and make sure gas cap is sealed well.
Run the car until you spend 1/2 of the tank. IF the Check Engine do not reappear, you have fake call from your computer.
Hopefully, first or second test will help you out.