Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems

kevkev57kevkev57 Member Posts: 1
edited February 2017 in Chrysler
Hello there, I own a 99 300M with 207,000 kms on it. A 2.7 model for Belgium. My problem is on starting. For a few days no problems. Then when I turn the key some of the warning lights will come on some not,they flash all over the place, but just a click no fire up.The over head interior lights glow but very dimly. The battery is just fine so thats not the problem , but what is the problem ??

Any help for mthe other side of the pond would be appreciated. Basically I think the 300M is one of the better big cars I have owned in terms of looks space etc. However reliability does not seem to be its strong point. Kind regards Kevin

I will probably leave the car for a few hours maybe a day and it will start. Then it might work for a week without problem maybe less.


  • bert10bert10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Chevrolet Trans Sport 3.4 V6 from 1999. Recently I put in an other engine and transmission. After that both cooling fans did not work. To find out where the problem was I checked all the fuses (remove and put them back). After that I checked the relays first outside the car later inside the car by activating them making contact to the frame. At that time the fans start working :) . Then I needed to move the car and found out that a new problem was there :cry: . The engine was turning but the fuel pump not. Also I had no ignition on the spark plugs :confuse: .

    Does any one have an idea how to solve this problem? Did I make a mistake by removing all the fuses one by one? If I mixed up the computer, is there a way to rest the computer of the car? As far as I know all the other electrical equipment is working.
  • fewpfewp Member Posts: 2
    I have a '06 300C and it has stalled three times in 16 months. The first two times, I was able to re start the car. Yesterday, it stalled and could not get it started. The dealership claims they cannot duplicate the problem, now they have the car unable to start. Maybe they can find the problem; however, it is very unsafe to drive. All three times it stalled on busy highways, I have been very lucky.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    You may get an answer on this group but you really need to post your question on the 300C group. This is for the 300M model in production from 99-04.
  • reedoccireedocci Member Posts: 1
    My battery went dead about a month ago, i replaced it. about 3 weeks later the starter went out and had it replaced. The mechanic had to try 3 different starters before one finally worked. 3 weeks later we are back in the shop and they have no idea what the problem is. They have now gone thru several starters, replaced ground wires from battery and turned crank manually to make sure that the engine has seized. no answers, no ideas, no car. HELP!
  • clarkwclarkw Member Posts: 2
    Over the past month, my 2000 300M w/about 70,000 miles has gone completely dead three times. I drive for a while, park, and shut it off, and there is no power at all. When I try to restart it, some of the instrument panel indicators come on but the interior lights, locks, etc. are dead. I installed a new battery after the first episode, but it is still acting up. The first two times, I tried several times over about 15 minutes and it just started. I did not wiggle any wires or move the shifter or anything. Today, I tried for about 5 - 10 minutes and still nothing, then I wiggled the battery cables, shifted in and out of park several times, and still nothing. Finally, I held the key in the start position and wiggled the shifter and it started. Maybe coincidence, but I suppose it could be related to an interlock, but why would it cause a total power outage? Any Ideas?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Bad relay or fuse block?
  • clarkwclarkw Member Posts: 2
    Not sure, but it happened again today. I parked the car and when I went to get out, I noticed the interior lights did not come on when I opened the door. I noted the time on the analog clock and left it for a few hours. When I came back it was fine, but the clock had lost 15 minutes. While driving home, the fuel gauge kept dropping to zero and back to 3/8. Almost like a loose ground somewhere. Guess its time to start checking connections.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Yeah, have that checked and also have the dealer check the Body Control Module (BCM). That might also be the problem. A few '99 and '00 Ms had the BCM go bad.
  • sb_clarksb_clark Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 300M has stalled twice in the last few months while my wife was driving it. She stated that when it stalls, the steering wheel locks up and the vehicle will not start until it's back in park. This has only happened twice, but to me, once is one time too many. If anyone has any info on this issue, please advise on what it may be and how to fix it.
  • 2000_300m2000_300m Member Posts: 4
    i'm trying to remove the analog clock from my 2000 300m and was wondering if any one knows how to do this with out causing damage to my dash board.
  • drummatruckerdrummatrucker Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Its real easy just be careful. the whole vent cover pops off. there are clips at about 10 oclock, 2 oclock and 5 and 7 oclock I just removed mine monday 3/12/07. I actually used the round end of a bottle opener (church key) to pry it off and had no problem. The clock unplugs and also pops out.GOOD LUCK if you want to replace the bulb . its easy to take out. theres a little phillips type screw in the back of the clock a little twist and its out. I say good luck because my dealer cant seem to figure out the part number for the bulb. My light has been out for over a year and I finally took the chance (succesfully) to remove the vent cover. the bulb supposedley cost under 2 bucks. to replace the whole clock is $150.00 (Crazy huh)If you are trying to replace your bulb and you can find one I would appreciate if you would write me back with the info @: [email protected] Good Luck And thanks in advance
  • 2000_300m2000_300m Member Posts: 4
    Thank you i tryed to remove the vent and was shocked how easy it was. I will try and find the part number on the bulb and get back to you thank you.
  • dgrams1dgrams1 Member Posts: 7
    My '99 300M died on the freeway in '06, dealer couldn't find a problem, no computer code. A mechanic friend said no code from a fuel pump OR fuel pump relay (under hood).. $10 replacement for the relay has seemed to fix it. Now one year later, transmission went into "limp-home" mode.. checking it out now at the dealership, not expecting much from them.
  • bisbee2bisbee2 Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know where I might purchase a replacement for the 300M's ('99) analog clock? Mine died and the local dealership wants $165 . . . for a plastic analog clock!! Surely there must be a less expensive retailer out there.
  • bisbee2bisbee2 Member Posts: 5
    My car ('99 300M) went into limp mode as well a few years back and was stuck in 1st gear. The dealership replaced some tye of transmission control module. I've read of others having the same problem.
  • dgrams1dgrams1 Member Posts: 7
    got a call from dealership, 2 modules + 1.5 hours = $192 to fix transmission! Nothing wrong with trans only the modules to keep the computer happy. Isn't technology wonderful? NOT!
  • unaveragemanunaverageman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 300M that has had a starting problem sporadically as well. It does the same blinking lights resets the seat memory but not the radio stations and ejects the cds. I ran a diagnostic on the car and the only code I am getting is error P1796 Autostick Input Circuit. I went through every diagnostic test I could and it doesn't even show a missfire (I tested via computer everything from the lights to body sensors. I am wondering if any one else can find any information on this code as all I am getting is generic sensor error or possible manual overheat.
    Anyone have any ideas or in formation?
  • iherbivoreiherbivore Member Posts: 3
    My 300m recently began dying right after I start it. When I start it the engine will briefly flair to a little over 1000 rpm like it normally does, but when it settles down to the normal rpm, it goes too low and dies. Once I manage to ease the rpms down to the normal level it will be fine and will not die the rest of the time I drive it, although it the rpms will bounce up and down if I am moving at parking lot speeds and let my foot off the gas. This does not seem to happen on the first morning start of the day. This started happening after one of the following two events(I am not sure which one caused it) 1) I disconnected the battery for a bit 2) I left the engine idling for about 40 minutes. The next time I started my car it behaved as described above.

    I have not cleaned my TB yet, but I feel it is not real likely to be a problem since this issue started so abruptly.

    Does this sound like a crank or cam sensor or anything?

    Thank you
  • dgrams1dgrams1 Member Posts: 7
    Try a new $7 fuel pump relay under the hood... Fixed my '99 300M after dealer said no prob to be found and got it started.. Leaves no info with the computer when it fails as either does the fuel pump.
  • iherbivoreiherbivore Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. It turns out that it was a dirty throttle body. Although I didn't think it was because of the sudden onset of problems, apparently the computer had learned to compensate over time for the accumulation of dirt, but when the battery was disconected it lost that memory and was not able to relearn it. After taking the throttle body off and giving it a good cleaning, Everything is well again :)
  • mdcitrusmdcitrus Member Posts: 1
    Did you find the problem with this? I have a 1999 300m with 118K on it. Started having similar problem... lights all come on in dash, body computer comes on with fans etc... car makes a solenoid kind of click sound but doesn't start. Play with key, play with shifter, play with steering wheel, and after a dozen or so tries it turns right over. Battery tests fine and already just put a new starter in as my mechanic said the starter was developing "bad spots"...
  • rmanzrmanz Member Posts: 2
    I am in the same situation with a 2000 300M - have you come across a cheaper option to replace the analog dashboard clock?
  • 2000_300m2000_300m Member Posts: 4
    no im sorry i dont have any options for you maybe try ebay or something like that
  • klm1959klm1959 Member Posts: 1
    ok, it's been about 6 weeks since you fixed your '99 300M with a $7 fuel pump. Have you had anymore stalling problems?

    Thank you,
  • mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    300M, 3.5L (2001). Replaced crank sensor but same stalling problem. Maybe a better description would help all you troubleshooters out there. Would appreciate advice on next try...
    1. Never stalls around town, only after driving awhile at highway speeds, then only as I come to a stop.
    2. As I slow to a stop, I notice the tach bouncing up and down around idle point, but just goes a little lower each time until engine dies.
    3. Cranks right up.
    4. Never stalls while at steady speeds.
    5. Once I get back into town and drive at slower speeds for awhile, problem goes away.
    6. Plenty of pep, good acceleration in town and on highway.

    Any guesses what I might try next?
  • dgrams1dgrams1 Member Posts: 7
    wasn't a fuel pump but the f.p. relay. Since then I've had to replace to sensors on the tranny as they went bad too. Outside of that, it's been pretty reliable. Nice ride and pretty well designed. I enjoy it, but only during summers. Sits in the pole building during Michigan winters.
  • robinr1robinr1 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same exact problem - the mechanic is stumped - had a tune up done seemed to be good for a few days now having same problem - the car is going to dealership tomorrow to be dx'd they said maybe fuel pump
  • robinr1robinr1 Member Posts: 3
    did the stalling continue if so what how was it fixed?
  • rogjack6112rogjack6112 Member Posts: 27
    Hi Robin The stalling was a bad fuel pump which I ordered on ebay and dropped the fuel tank and installed. problem solved now over a year.
    I had the crank sensor on a Co .
    My wifes Concorde had the starter go out last yr and cost $400.
    I also replaced the electric radiator fan on the 99m last yr -again off ebay and did myself.
    Both cars now at 110,000 and doing well.
    PS when the window sticks I bang on the mid door while holding down the button and it comes down.
    Good luck with yours --these forums are a great help.
    Roger/Nashville [email protected]
  • rogjack6112rogjack6112 Member Posts: 27
    That should have read
    crank sensor went out on Concorde and 99M.
    Starter solenoid contacts on both cars
    Good luck Roger
  • robinr1robinr1 Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 300m car (100,000) is having the same exact problem. So far I have had a tune up ($150), cleaned fuel line($130), fuel pump relay switch ($10), dry gas with high octane, but the car is still stalling. Now the dealership said ERG valve should have been changed at 60,000.

    I have read from others that the fuel pump as worked but the dealership didn't say.
    I'm at my wits end - it stalled the other day on highway merging into traffic to get onto another highway, also stalled on the ramp - it is getting scary.
  • 2000_300m2000_300m Member Posts: 4
    I got a check engine light and i did the key cycle and got codes p0456 p0440 can any one tell me what these codes mean and how do i fix the prob thanks in advance
  • gman47gman47 Member Posts: 3
    Chrysler 300M 3.5L. After starting it ticks badly. The rpm is normal, idle is good, no smoke, no check engine lights, oil is clean, oil level is good. Sound like it coming from the top of the motor, after moving the shift from park to reverse the noise went away, but then after you put back in park or drive it ticks badly. Help me

    Is it my top cam shaft ticking? or exhaust?
  • gman47gman47 Member Posts: 3
    this is a 2002 300M chrysler, 112,000 miles. Oil has been changed regular and well maintain till now. :cry:
  • zuissjw1zuissjw1 Member Posts: 3
    I have this exact same problem with my 99. I installed a new battery (it was needed anyway) and have replaced the battery ground cable to the remote starting point. I was thinking of replacing the battery positive cable but now don't have much confidence.
    I'm thinking mine might be a starter with a bad segment, or the solenoid itself clicking but too weak to fully fire and engage the starter.

    I'm curious to see if there is any help. Thanks, John
  • zuissjw1zuissjw1 Member Posts: 3
    After reading into the forum a bit more, it looks like I should try the starter ignition relay and if that doesn't work, the starter ignition switch. I might try the first one myself, but would probably have a shop do the second.

    Thanks and I'd still welcome any other suggestions, John
  • gman47gman47 Member Posts: 3
  • creoleheatcreoleheat Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2002 Chyrsler 300M that I reviewed all the maintenance on it from a Carfax that I ran on it before buying it.It has 75,000 miles on it but also ticks after starting in the morning. Does seem to quiet down after about 5 minutes. Wander whats the cause.
  • mrjenksmrjenks Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Chrysler 300M was also stalling on me. I would be driving and all of a sudden it would shut down. In the begining it would start right back up so I didn't worry about it too much. This has been happening off and on for about a year. Recently it had been stalling more frequently (up to 4 times a day) and it took longer to get it started back up again. Of course I got concerned because when it did stall the steering wheel would lock up due to no power, and that got dangerous on some occasions. I took it in to my favorite local car repair guy and got a reading of bad Cam Sensor, even though my check engine light never ever came on during these stalling moments. He changed out the Cam Sensor and it has been running smoothly ever since (going on 3 weeks now). Seems like it did fix my problem (knock on wood) and car running like usual. I love my 300M so I am glad that it is running normal again.
  • thequeenjaidathequeenjaida Member Posts: 2
    My 300M s turning over very good, but it seems like it's not getting any spark to start it. It acts like the anti theft device is working, but the 2 keys I have are the originals. Where should I begin to try to track down the problem? It's got plenty of gas, & was running fine until I parked it, then came back after a few hours & it wouldn't start. My husand wiggled something around on the battery (it wasn't the cables), a fuse or something, then it started. We drove it home & now it won't start again. He tried wiggling the battery thing again but it didn't work. Thanks for your help.
  • dwhite9610dwhite9610 Member Posts: 5
    I am having the exact same problem you described. Is yours still running ok?
  • dwhite9610dwhite9610 Member Posts: 5
    My 99 is doing the same thing, no check engine light. Did you get it fixed? There is a post in this forum about replacing a cam sensor. My husband is a tech and when I described what was happening, that was the very first thing he said. Unfortunately, this one may take throwing some parts at it, but the other post here said that that sensor has so far fixed the problem. It can definitely be scary and dangerous!!
  • dwhite9610dwhite9610 Member Posts: 5
    This one is probably the starter. I had exactly the same problem.
  • dwhite9610dwhite9610 Member Posts: 5
    Have you seen the post about the cam sensor? Mine is a 99, but they didn't change much. I have the exact same thing going on with mine right now.
  • thequeenjaidathequeenjaida Member Posts: 2
    M husband decided to see if it would start a few days after I posted that message & it started 2 times just fine. I still don't feel safe enough to drive it somewhere & shut it off tho. So you really think it's the starter? I'll tell my husband about that, and hopefully it will do the trick. Thanks for your help!
  • dwhite9610dwhite9610 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, mine did exactly the same thing, starting and not starting for several weeks. Sometimes I would go to start it and it would crank like it wanted to start, I would take the key out, put it back in (not that that would actually make a difference) and it would start. Other times it would start right up and then not at all. Fortunately, my husband is a technician and keeps my car going. I am having another problem with it now aside from the tapping/ticking from the engine and ongoing front end issues. I love my car but it has had many things go wrong with it including power windows that haven't worked right from day one, rear hubs, front hubs, starter, a broken spark plug, etc. It is such a beautiful car and I don't want to give it up, but I am not sure how safe it is anymore (107,000 miles).
  • jay114jay114 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, have problems with my chrysler 2.5 tdi voyager stalling, wondering if this could be the solution to mine?
    Diognosis at Chrsyler couldn't pin point it and don't want to just keep throwing money at it .. . .
  • mrjenksmrjenks Member Posts: 2
    It has been running more stalls at all. Just have them hook up with an diagnostic check even though your engine check light don't come on (mine didn't) it still might get a reading. My 300M has over 150,000 and is running like a champ at this point since the fix (knock on wood).
  • ballysmom52ballysmom52 Member Posts: 2
    I NEED HELP, PLS. I have been periodically experiencing problems with my 300M. The car "dies" when I am driving it and it is extremely worrisome when this occurs. The engine light comes on after this happens. I live in Southern FL and have taken it to different dealers for repair. The last time it was fixed the cam sensor was replaced. The car has been working for about a year and the other day it had a relapse. I only have 26K miles on the car. Are there solutions to this problem? Is there a mechanic in the house?? HELPPP!

    Thanks. :cry:
  • sunkaxsunkax Member Posts: 3
    Hi I have a 99 300m and it won't start when the engine is hot. it is a big problem in the summer cause i have to wait untill it cools down. sometimes it starts but the engine is shaking very bad, like he wants to jump out. if I push the gas pedal in park it doesnt help, but after I move and accelerate good, it stops and its running good. no check engine light...
    thanks for any help
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