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Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems



  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited May 2011
    There are a few rules of thumb I use to determine what may be causing some hard or intermittent starting issues , other than what may be some sort of serious cause.

    Firstly and foremost , is that the battery terminals must be clean , or in a condition where I have cleaned them recently (within 6mths) with a battery terminal cleaner , to ensure good contact with the computer in this case , as there is no distributor on the 300m 3.5L engine. Because there is only the PCM etc. extra attention must also be placed on 2ndly , the sparkplugs. They should be the correct factory sparkplugs.

    Lastly , the short ground straps that are connected to the engine and the firewall or fender , should not be badly rusted or almost seperating , while the connecting rings should also not be badly rusted. If they are rusted , they should be cleaned or replaced. Chrysler vehicles have always relied upon those groundstraps for ignition power , they are not just there for show , or for extra grounding purposes. They are critical.

    IE : When I bought my first car , it was a 1969 Dodge Charger , 383ci. and a friend and I planned to take the car to his cottage for the weekend. We got our work schedules correct , collected our fishing rods etc. for the weekend and loaded it all into the car at the last minute , about an hour before dark , and got into the car to go. I attempted to start the engine , which was fine , I had just drove it to the house after work , and it failed to make any sort of sound. DEAD. I got out of the car to check things , and after about 10 minutes , I saw that the ground strap on the driver's side had been moving with the engine twisting motion , and it had broken into 2 pieces. So.. I took the ring connector off of the engine and remounted the ring onto the broken end which still reached long enough , and put it back on the engine , and bolted it back down to the firewall. I got in the car , and away she went , with no subsequent problems.

    In the case of the 300m , the engine actually does rely also , upon the vent slits in the fender wells for cooling purposes. This makes it so that the PCM area is exposed to the elements coming through the grills to some extent. That also means , that the PCM area , and it's components must be free of corrosion : as it is the source by which the engine acquires power to create spark at the sparkplugs , and all electrical engine components also rely upon it as well. It's best to check that the grounding portions of the PCM are clean , and with good contact to the fender mountings. Just because the headlights work , doesn't mean that the ignition portions of the PCM have ample ground in conjuction with the battery positive and ground or the alternator. Due to wiring that is contained within the dashboard , some ground ring contacts , their wiring and others can be effected by simply removing dash parts. Also , if you improve the ground somewhere in the engine compartment , a short circuiting groundwire in the dash will be increased , and may also cause things to change or get worse. That is why you should check these ground ring contacts when in the dash , and all of their length of wire to where they exit or go through the firewall to ensure that they are OK. Usually , the dash wiring is OK , 99% of the time , so it is safe to service the engine compartment wiring or contacts.

    Replacing the groundstraps on the engine is an integral part of the ignition system that connects the dash wiring ignition switch etc. to the frame grounds , and the battery ground cable which may attach to the starter or engine itself. All in all , it's just best to make sure they are not too rusted to conduct electricity. You can check this with a voltmeter , simply by removing the ground strap and connecting the 2 wires of the meter to the ends of the strap to see if there is good continuity. If the meter spikes and returns to 0 , intermittently , the strap is cooked , and not any good , needing replacement. Simple , but it is part of the ignition system. Don't forget that the ground straps also play a role while the engine is running , so a bad strap can cause running problems.
  • Firstly , if the starter is not turning properly all the time , you have to check 2 things. Starting with the battery , which I think should have been an Interstate Mega Tron II with 885 CCA of power. Given the 300m's have high output alternators , I have my 2002 300m Special with it's original in it , still sparks when I connect the integral ground post to the fender , and I have seen even 1997's at the scrapyard with the exact same battery , so it stands to reason that that battery is the original factory installation.

    Far be it , for a battery to last 10 or 15 years , but that is the case. Obviously , the battery terminals must be clean inside , not on top only. If the battery is OK , then the starter may be the problem , and some of them can actually be causing a short to the ignition in some cases , especially where they are in rough or worn condition. As may be with an older car. If the starter is OK , then it shouldn't struggle to turn the motor , as the 3.5L engine isn't all that big , it's more like an intermediate sized starter motor. If it seems to snag , with a good battery , it's armature is worn out.

    It sounds to me like your starter is gone , and it's even effecting the power circuits of the ignition. Which means it should immediately be removed before it causes any damage to the PCM etc. Any good starter/battery combination in the 300m's should turn over the 3.5L easily , unless you have an engine which is too tight for some reason. Mine turns over like a Honda , even while both the battery and the starter are original with 238,000km's on them.
  • If I were in your shoes , I wouldn't spend time or money on the tierod ends , until the car is running properly. In making the car run properly , you'll have to get the sparkplugs checked , that they are the correct ones , because any sparkplugs that are not the original factory installed replacements , will cause the engine to run abnormally. The correct sparkplugs for the 3.5L engine are : NGK ZFR5LP-13G Laser Platinum Premium Sparkplugs. Specifically , the Laser sparkplugs will require less electrical power to produce a large amount of spark to ignite the fuel mixture 100%. If you can find someone who will remove at least 1 sparkplug from any of the 6 cylinders , you can determine which "wrong" sparkplugs you may have. Just because Bosch makes some sort of 4-pronged grounding contact , doesn't mean they will work better in any application , as the heatrange and spark intensity is important in conjuction with the engine fuel injectors. So.. you see you have to match sparkplugs with fuel injectors these days to have correct starting and running characteristics. Once you have verified that the engine runs good , and doesn't stall anymore , you could replace the tierod ends. If you replace tierod ends , you may also require a front end alignment , so that your tires don't start wearing abnormally , which could be an expense as well. These things are really budget oriented , but in some cases where you put the front suspension out of wack , you will need alignment as well immediately. Tierod ends on the 300m are simple , so you might be able to replace 1 without any alignment , if you did that , it would be dependant upon your budget , and whether the new tierod is causing tire wear.

    I just bought a 2002 300m Special , and replaced all 6 sparkplugs with the NGK's , which were already in the car , but original , and I noticed that the temperature gauge doesn't move (while there is both either heat or air conditioning) , until I reach the highway. Prior to changing the sparkplugs the engine reached the same temperature much quicker , where the needle is at the first increment prior to half way on the gauge. It remains there at all times once warmed up , which is normal.

    I would really recommend changing the sparkplugs , and absolutely insist on getting the proper Laser ones , as the supplier I bought them from confirmed , that any other types of sparkplugs in these engines will not work properly. But , I had already decided to install the NGK's as original anyways , and it has been a practice on any engine to install the correct sparkplugs for 30 years or more. I have been working on used cars since 1978 , so I know a bit about how sickening it is to do things wrong.

    If you lived nearby in fact , I could do a bit of work for you on your car and have it ready to roll right in a day or so , at 80% off , instead of $80/hr. Simple tuneups and front end work can be completed in a few hours.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello all,

    my 99 300m recently has also started having this problem. It will start fine and run well but when i come to a stop light or sometimes slow down, it will stall or just die. Sometimes it wont restart unless i hit the gas a bit. Also I've started to hear a slight tapping sound. I hear it after the engine has gotten warm and mostly when im stopped at a light but not when the car is being driven even at the lowest speed. What could be causing this? Any and all help would be appreciated. By the way it has 184500 miles on it and I've kept the oil changed like clockwork. Im wondering it its the crank sensor, fuel pump or distributor. As for the tapping Im hoping its not the rocker arm.
  • sounds like it could be EGR valve
    try driving it with the OBD II code reader
    attached and look for intermittent EGR error codes
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hey danfishinman,

    thanks for the info, will give it a try tomorrow when i drop it off at my mech. will keep you posted.

    thanks again for your help.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited August 2011
    morgan71 : When stalling occurs , the first thing you should check is the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor on the drivers side of the engine Plenum (Black Plastic Air Intake). This MAP sensor is responsible for feeding signals to the PCM , which in turn is "Primary" in the calculation and regulation of the air/fuel mixture (according to the Chrysler Service Manuals). "Primary" means , that if your MAP Sensor is failing or leaking , the PCM cannot calculate the intake pressure - therefor all other sensor readings and calculation will be incorrect or adversely effected. To test the MAP Sensor , fill a spray bottle with water , and while the engine is running at idle , spray a short burst directly onto the MAP sensor mounting/seal area on the Plenum. If the engine idle speed is effected , it is time to check the O-ring seals/replace them , remove sensor & clean with compressed air or replace the MAP Sensor itself. Note also , that when at highway speed the engine vacuum will be much greater , so replacing the 2 O-rings is a good idea regardless of any leak test results at idle or increased RPM - due to load factors. If your MAP Sensor has a provision on it's shaft for 2 O-rings , you will note a difference if only 1 is installed. A positive seal is a MUST , which includes any hoses etc. connected to the air intake distribution duct etc. (ie : brake vacuum booster). "Any loss of vacuum decreases the amount of available air in the Plenum".

    Incorrect spark plugs can also effect engines in this way. The correct spark plugs for the 3.5L engine are : NGK Laser Platinum Premium ZFR5LP-13G , while ANY other spark plug can cause fuel calibration problems - due to unburned vapors (flooding).

    As far as ticking goes , you should be looking firstly at what type of oil filter you regularly use. From my experience on my 2002 300M Special , I noted that the Fram oil filter was , not only very cheap , but - the original filter I took off was : hardly filled (not much in the filter when removed) , and when shaken (there was a sloppy sloshing sound when empty) - meaning the filter had just soaked up oil and became nothing but a soggy piece of cardboard. To the contrary , most filters will remain solid (when removed , emptied and shaken - no sloppy sloshing sound is present). I highly recommend using either a Mopar oil filter or a K&N oil filter (# HP2004 for 3.5L) - as the K&N has a anti-backflow stopper that prevents "dry starts". When I installed the K&N filter , it did allow oil to be available to the upper engine components earlier , where no rattle or slightly abnormal sounds were present prior to that at initial startup. This speaks volumes about whether or not your oil (especially if already contaminated by abnormal engine deposits) , is being filtered , and any deposits are being trapped by the oil filter. Also , the K&N oil filter is very easy to install or remove , as it has a built-in hex nut welded to the mounting end - where you simply use a 1" hex or open end wrench to either remove or install it (a very good feature). There are also other characteristics that the K&N oil filter provide : such as a extra thick walled design (for racing engines) - where the filter cannot become punctured or crack/explode. For twice the cost , it is a no-brainer (and your engine deposits will have been collected and stored between oil changes) - not circulated throughout the engine with a cardboard substance (wood)? Consider that Fram oil filters are being sold below the cheapest cost of almost any oil filter. This strikes a cord in me - because if I remember correctly - Fram used to advertise that you could use their oil filters without the need to change them at each oil change (suggesting a higher value).

    A bit of oil filter history : When I bought my car in March/11 , there was a Fram PH16 oil filter on the engine (which had some sort of chalk marks on it) , so I replaced it immediately with another new Fram PH16. When I removed the original Fram PH16 , the sloppy sloshing sound was present. When I removed the new Fram PH16 after just 30 days (no daily driving) , it too had the sloppy sloshing sound present when empty. Then I changed to the K&N oil filter - which made the slight engine noises stop immediately at startup. In another couple of months I will again , change the filter to another K&N oil filter - and note any heavy or abnormal deposits from the oil filter drainage fluid.

    Checking these 3 areas of components , should produce results - before you have the vehicle checked at a dealer or with a DRB III testing unit for fault codes or suspicious problem areas. Note also , that any checking with any digital tester - depends on having "normal" component conditions , to achieve a proper or good diagnosis for repair/replacements.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hey Pitmanouvre,

    Well now the car just cranks and wont start at all. I turned the key back and forth without starting it to get the trouble code and it gave me p1694. I looked it up and this is what i found "No CCD Messages Received From ECM". I am assuming that this means the ECM is gone. What do you think? Any suggestions. Also thank you for your reply and the info you gave me. I just took it to the shop today and told them whats wrong and what i found.

    Let me know what you think it could be.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Well now the car just cranks and wont start at all. I turned the key back and forth without starting it to get the trouble code and it gave me p1694. I looked it up and this is what i found "No CCD Messages Received From ECM". I am assuming that this means the ECM is gone. What do you think? Any suggestions.

    Let me know what you think it could be.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello all,

    My mechanic got me up and running...apparently my crank and cam sensor needed to be replaced...all for the low low price of $150.00!!!! So to all whom are having this problem...have your crank and cam sensors checked and or replaced...also heres a trick i picked up from another site...with all of your doors closed...insert your key as if you were going to start your car but dont...turn the key to the on position and off and do this within a 5 second period and then leave the key in the on should see an error code pop up where the mileage gauge is...should read something like p1694 or something like that...hope this helps.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited August 2011
    Yes , the crank and cam sensors are part of the calculations/calibrations that the PCM makes at initial startup. Without those 2 sensors being accurate , in conjuction with others as I mentioned previously - a NO FUEL or NO/ PROPER SPARK TIMING condition will result. It is very common , according to the service intervals for the timing etc./belts to be replaced , where the crank and cam sensors are also located. Many owners are worried about this , and actually do want them all changed once the vehicle reaches the required or applicable mileage. Not to mention that your gas mileage is a factor , along with premature starter failure or wear , due to ignoring a telltale repeated startup condition.

    Owners of the 300M , have to realize that there isn't any distributor or spark plug wires on the engine , the system works strictly from the battery & voltage regulator that is actually contained within the PCM itself , and a variety of sensors send signals to the PCM to calculate spark timings etc. , that go to each of the 6 coil packs that reside in direct connection (at the top of the motor) to the spark plugs directly. That is why it is very important that each sensor works correctly.

    In my case , with my 300M , I am only the 2nd owner - and the lady who owned it , didn't drive it in winter (unless necessary or when weather permitted) - as the original paint is still in really good condition underneath the car throughout. Definately , if your engine begins to stall at startup , fails to start or starts and stalls - it is time to check the SPARK PLUGS/ MAP/CAM/CRANK sensors - and NOT ignore those symptoms. If you do , the next thing you know - the starter wears out (on used cars). I always start at the spark plugs (mine showed signs of rust on the white porcelain insulators) / replaced , then the intake air system/sensors. From there , it is a question of whether or not the PCM is receiving good signals from the main sensors (cam & crank) etc. This puts the timing dead on correct. Adversely , it is incorrect IMO - to start by suspecting or testing your cam or crank sensor (especially if the engine runs good - but has minor problems). When dealing with a 1999 vehicle , it is a good idea to suspect that the entire timing belt apparatus/sensors are worn , but I would start at the top and work my way down (always on any engine). Because , sometimes - something as simple as a clogged air filter can cause major problems (a no-brainer to be checking the cam & crank sensors etc. if that is the case).

    It is very important to have/maintain your vehicle's components in a chronological order. For example to the contrary : A lady was driving her 300M in a parking lot , she went over a speed bump & parked the car. Then she saw that her radiator fluid was completely draining out under the car. She suspected that the speed bump had something to do with it , but that was not the case. She took the car to a mechanic , who told her that one of the cylinders in the engine block had a hairline crack - and that the engine required a test which cost over $2,000.00.

    She was sent off on her way , (with said test bill in hand) , while only her coolant was replaced , after the mechanic discovered that the main rad hose had been "blown off" , where he reconnected it with a new clamp. "THAT IS IMPROPER". Seeing as there wasn't any visible white smoke coming from the tailpipe , the thermostat should have been replaced for safety (high pressure blew the rad hose off) - along with a flush and fill process (possibly contaminated or wrong coolant). Granted a flush/fill & thermostat would have cost a bit more - she would have at the very least been able to drive the car home without incident. In fact , she had to pull the car over on her way home - seeing as her (in car) temperature gauge was showing a very high reading. This is a fine example of non-chronological diagnosis , performing a very temporary fix - and also claiming that the engine block was damaged as well.

    Obviously - the major condition was that the rad hose had blown off. And the only way to make certain that the thermostat wasn't sticking - was to replace it before refilling the system with coolant. If you didn't take the thermostat out (who knows whether or not the installed thermostat is the correct or adequate part)? I would expect to have that kind of service performed by someone who is either trying to rip me off - or someone who doesn't know what they are doing at all.

    Moreover - if the waterpump had failed completely , why would you be refilling the system with coolant and sending the customer on their way (if you tested everything , including the cylinder pressures)? The only time you would send a customer on their way (their decision) in this case - is when and if the engine was producing a great deal of white smoke from it's exhaust (coolant burning). A last resort situation (tow truck required) - but - in this case , the customer had no qualms with repairing whatever was wrong. Not to mention this lady could have been badly burned by opening her hood to check the engine (if the waterpump had not been circulating fluid). Why let her take that risk and send her on her way?

    Chronologically : the rad hose blew off. Explanation : water pump is NOT working , or thermostat is NOT working correctly etc. NO REFILLING OF THE SYSTEM WILL FIX THAT.
  • slitzslitz Posts: 2
    i will check into the spark plugs. got another question.. thinkn there an electrical problem, which cld be spark plug related im hopeing. randomly, the car will do these things. cruise control, ac, and temp outside and temp for the motor will not work.... the other day it had rained. i hit a very small puddle at hwy speeds on the front right tire, car started to accel oddly and engine light was flashing. i pulled over, turned car off and started again right away, everything was fine.
  • loualloual Posts: 4
    If I insert key and turn immediately I get good turn over No start.
    I learned if I insert key,WAIT 10 to 15 seconds (during which time I hear a pump working)
    then turn key it starts perfect.
    If I go in stort for 1 hour come out no problem.
    New battery and plugs.
    2004M with 80K
    My present "cure" is to leave and return in a couple hours.
    I'm a newbie here. Thanks Lou
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    We had a similar experience with our pickup this past Winter. You might have someone check the fuel pump - that's what it was for us.

    One thing that helped was never allowing the gas tank to dip below 1/4 full. We also put some HEET in the gas tank - you have to be careful about that, because doing it often will break down seals & such. But, you might try that in case there's moisture in your gas tank. This was also one of our issues (before the fuel pump croaked).


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  • i think the cheap on your key dont work try a different key i had the same problem with a buik .
  • I have a starting problem with my 2004 Chrysler 300m (OD: 51,000 miles). When I turn the ignition the car cranks over and over but does not start. I can hold the ignition switch and allow it to crank for a full minute but I won’t start. This happens about 75% of the time, BUT the other 25% it starts with the first crank with no problem.
    Symptom 2: With the car running or parked, pressing the gas pedal to the floor the enignine oscillates at rpm’s over 4000, revving up and down very rapidly until I let off the gas pedal and the engine returns to a lower rpm. At lower rpms it does not do this, only at high rpm`s.
    Symptom 3: While driving with the cruise control set to on, the cruise control will all of a sudden disengage.
    I really appreciate the help you all have given to people and hope you can help me as well.
  • loualloual Posts: 4
    I have same thing FIRST start of the day.
    To "solve" it I turn key to full on position which allows dash light
    and beeping to begin. Wait 10 or 15 seconds ( listen for a pumping
    sound ) after the wait start the car.
    Also I started putting cleaner into my gas
    In past I did hear pump sound, not
    I may be nuts but that's my story.
    Best of luck.
    SYM # 2 = ????
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited October 2011
    This sounds like it could be a fuel problem. There is a fuel line filter under the rear seat which should be changed about every 5 years regardless of mileage. This would explain the high rpm incapability (not enough fuel in the restricted line) , non-starting and - you may experience rough idle or even stalling after hard stopping , due to condensation building up inside a clogged (abnormal) fuel line filter in wet and/or cold conditions.

    Another contributing factor , are the spark plugs - they MUST be the Premium Laser Platinum type (NGK - ZFR5LP-13G or whatever is on your fan support identification label to the left of the hood release latch). This spark plug identification is updated on all models and years for each specific application. Changing these spark plugs to any sort of new (more efficient) styles , effects the computer/engine calibration. Usually causing all sorts of minor problems with the engine performance.

    At 51,000 miles - I would be checking the spark plugs first , as it is common practice for some (non-dealer) garages / diy'ers / to assume that equivalent spark plugs are adequate. They are NOT , after as little as a week or so you may experience a negative change in engine performance. Upon initial inspection of the spark plugs - you should be noting any signs of brown rusty looking residue or burn marks on the spark plug electrodes (white porcelain top part) where the actual tightening nut "ring" meets the porcelain protector/insulator. Any sign of rust on the porcelain means the inner core conductor is worn out / burned or rusted due to dampness / careless overwashing of the motor where water has seeped down into the spark plug sockets - past the rubber connector boot - or that the spark plugs are generally faulty / worn.

    If you are in total doubt , you could also just add some (gas line antifreeze) into the gas tank (only stuff I really trust and have had 100% consistant luck with - others are too technically involved with make , model , condition , chemical etc. - can cause a worse condition) so that you can note any change from the gas line antifreeze diluting any moisture or water that may be building up in the gas line filter. If the engine were to suddenly start , run and perform better (you would know the filter is the problem - clogged). These filters break down inside themselves after a while , where the deposits , sludge of their own material will restrict the flow and contaminate the fuel itself after about 5 years. It is NOT a good idea to pour aftermarket chemicals into the gas tank for ANY reason. At the very least you can damage your injectors , if a very tiny piece/s of debris is dislodged in the fuel line and gets trapped at the injectors.

    It's best to stay away from ANY harsh chemicals that may even break down the inline fuel filter material prematurely for these reasons. There is nothing like finding out after 6 months of using a chemical , that it causes problems in lower temperatures or vice-versa. By then it's too late , the injectors can be damaged or clogged.

    If there is NO fuel line filter or spark plug problems after checking/replacing these 2 , it would be a good idea to question the connectivity of the battery terminals / clamps and wiring coming off of the battery itself. A poor connection to either power + or ground - , could explain intermitant power supply to the ignition / spark plugs / coils etc.
  • did you find out what was wrong with your car and how you fixed it?
  • Hi I have a 99 300m I've recently replaced the battery, cam sensor, spark plugs, coil #4, and my fuel pump but the car still shuts off while I'm driving. What could be the reason for this?
  • Does the engine sputter / stall out completely , or does the electrical drop out quickly? I suspect it is the latter , which is common when the electrical system has not been serviced properly.

    I have the full Chrysler Technician Service Manuals , complete with full diagnostic and repair procedures for 99-04 300M's , including the Special etc. on CD. If you are interested , I could send you a full copy for your future use : FREE via mail. Let me know if you are interested , and I will quickly post my email address (then edit it out to refrain from offering a multitude). With Adobe Reader , you can view every single piece/part of the car , and any applicable symptom solutions. 10,000 pages +.

    I'm busy right now , but I will come back and edit this post , to suggest a permanent fix to your problem , once I know more about what is actually happening when the car shuts off.
  • While I'm driving it just shuts off as if I was turning it off flat line what I call it
  • My wife has a 2002 300M. We have had it for a little over 3 years. We had issue with starter clicking. Had it replaced under the aftermarket warranty we bought from chrysler dealer. Well needless to say ever since we have had issues. They have been replacing them every time. Last time we took it to a chrysler dealership and had them diagnose it. They Came back with nothing. They have replaced the starter every time and it's been 7-8 times now and same issue. The most recent they supposingly put OEM starter on it and it's lasted almost a year this go around but still issues

    Well now the car is out of the warranty and Chrysler is wanting 600 to replace starter cause they'll have to diagnose it again but the tech said it would be honestly waste of money since our records show same thing with nothing found.

    We were driving the other day stopped to eat (it was raining outside) stopped for 45-1 hour. Went outside and just clicked nothing more. Got a ride home went back with some tools removed air filter housing and checked terminals everything seemed tight as I could feel. Tried jumping it still nothing. Slammed hood several times still nothing

    Tow truck shows up next morning and it fires right up. He shut it off 3 times and fired back up each time no problem. We went ahead and had it towed he pulls it up on the truck to try agaiand it wouldn't start. So we towed it to my moms house her husband has a shop with lift etc.

    I haven't been out there yet as family emergency came up but he said he's been out there the past 2 days and tried starting it numerous times right after each other and it fires right up like nothing is wrong.

    Im at a lost for words. I have no clue where to start. I'm kinda strapped for money right now but don't mind forking it out if it's a actual fix and not same thing we have been doing. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited November 2011
    It sounds to me like you have a grounding problem. All ground wire mounting spots/points must be checked for rust or corrosion. Remove driving light on passenger side (ground wires there). Remove ground terminals from driver's side inner fender rail , clean with wire brush etc.

    There are major discrepancies in the Chrysler Service manuals , as to whether or not there "is" or "should be" a dedicated ground cable going from the battery ground terminal (directly to the passenger side engine block). The manual says there is 1 there as such , but it doesn't exist. The manual also says that there is supposed to be a ground cable bolted directly behind the starter (on the transmission casing) - but there aren't. These types of discrepancies can cause all sorts of power failures , clips , etc. , where the PCM will shut down as a result , or the starter will not engage etc. Plus , you really need to be checking the engine ground straps that are braided , which go from the engine "head" to the inner fender well mounts (GROUND). If just 1 braided strap fails to conduct to ground , (rusted) , a no-power condition can exist. I have replaced just 1 , and had the engine start & run without any issue in the past.

    The same principals can be applied : if you were to attempt to use a rusty lightbulb , and screw it into the socket of a lamp. The result would be : intermittent lighting of the filament , dimness of the bulb , on-off conditions , or no lighting of the bulb - or the bulb might burn out as a result of improper & inconsistent voltage flow to the filament. With today's computers , the computer will sense an abnormal condition (and treat it as a short) - shutting the entire system down.

    Another noteworthy thought I just had (you said it was raining) when you had the no start condition. In the Service Manuals , they mention that the rear window defroster lines are not embedded into the glass (they are glued on top of the inner glass) - therefore you should not clean the inner of the rear window with harsh chemicals of any kind (water only). Those lines could be broken , cracked (not working) , "or" - crossing over each other , "or" RUSTED on the window edge contact areas to the window frame.
  • About the back window wires. It's been raining the entire time past 4 days even while he's getting it to start its same outside condition.

    I'm going to Go ahead and replace the battery and possibly the battery terminals they are corroded pretty bad on top. I'll check the grounding straps and othe grounds too. I pray I figure this out. It's been eating me alive. We love the car and it will be paid off in 6 months. Hate to get something else after getting it paid off so I hope I get it solved.

    Anymore ideas send them my way please
  • It's a faulty wire that connects to your starter its a small thin wire on the side of the starter
  • Need to look at the actual wires and cables themselves, I having same issues with my 99 300m. We took the front tire OFF to change the battery and after a quick look behind the fender well was the main positive battery cable and the inner tie rod. The tie rod has rubbed the positive battery cable until the bare wire is showing. So everytime I turned the wheel while driving or at any time the bare wire came in contact with the tie rod the car would die b/c it grounds outs (so to speak). Hope this helps. It really made me fell better that it was something as simple as that!
  • are you speaking of the wire that goes from the battery to the starter itself?
  • Well got the car back today from my moms husband. He searched everything he could and found nothing. The entire week it was out there it started multiple times daily for him. It was getting power to the starter wire and we load tested the battery and it's good. We get out there to drive it home and it fires right up. On the way home her fog lights came on and I called and asked and she said the switch has been on whole time and she hasn't messed with it. It was odd but I happen to see them come on. Then we get home and park in the garage. Shut it off. And guess what won't start just click as soon as you hit the key. One click per turn of the key.

    Any ideas
  • Hello, by chance would you be able to provide a copy of the manual?
    I am also experiencing the same issue with my 2007 300 Touring.
    Already had the spark plugs replaced, filter and #6 cyliniod replaced. Also fuel injection service done on it as well.
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